Sisneros Speed Works Super Start Kit
A solution, to an issue some riders did not even know they had.

Many of us have had that sickening feeling as they pushed the "Magic" button on their bike.. Only to find out, that after many such starts in the last 8 miles of rutted muddy single track.... this time, the light goes out, but you get nothing but a click from the starter system. You need more starting power from your battery.

The DRZ is a overall do everything well bike,, it can be built to be very good at many tasks. All of these build ups have one thing in common… More power from the stock 398cc motor. Often this is done with aftermarket cams, larger bores, more stroke…..all of the MOD’s can place more stress on the starter system.. The OEM battery, Yuasa YT7B-BS has just 85 Cold Cranking Amps and rated at 7AH. In perfect condition is hardly adequate to start even slightly modified DRZ’s. Once you add in some age to the battery, or repeated starts without enough recharge time, or major MOD’s increasing the required output from the stock battery.. you will quickly find the OEM sized battery to fall short. A quick search of Thumper Talk archives will clearly show this has been a problem for as long as the DRZ has been on the market.

Many have talked about using a larger battery but been unable to do the mod themselves due to fitment issues. Eddie Sisneros, has found his own solution. One that is available now, can be installed by most anyone, is cheap and brings the DRZ starting system up to par with the requirements we ask of it. So weather you want more starting reliability for you stock DRZ out on the trail, or need to get that new 485cc BigBore, stroker turned over.. This might just be a solution for you.

This kit uses a Yuasa YTZ10S which more than doubles the cold cranking amps available vs the stock battery. The YTZ10S packs 190 CCA and is rated at 10Ah.
The MOD can be done in a few different ways.. You can get just the bracket, the Bracket and a modified new battery box, or both of those and a modified electrical harness. Mix and match the parts needed to your comfort level of fabrication.

In general the basic kit includes a custom made bracket that replaces the OEM hold down arm. A new OEM battery box modified to use the custom bracket and fit the new larger battery.

Users can supply their own battery, or get one with the kit.
[BREAK=Side Panel Install Tips]
Because of how close the tolerance is between the battery and panel, the panel may contact the battery on some bikes.

The curve of the panel makes it look like "there is no way the panel will go on”. This is not the case.

Every side panel has a different amount of mold ridge left on the back. You may need to remove some or the entire ridge.

If you look closely at where the panel contact the battery you will see its actual a small corner.

The curve of the panel makes its look way worse than it is.

Here is the method used by Eddie Sisneros to install the panel the first time.

With the air box door off, install the lower bolt and washer with only a few threads engaged. Push the panel up to where you can lower the seat tab over it. Install the seat bolt. Tighten the lower panel bolt fully.

Once this has been done and the panel is on the bike for a period of time it will "relax" and come on and off as normal in the future.

The original bike used for the prototype was the same way. Once the panel has come on and off that bike a few times it’s like nothing ever made contact.

Hope this helps anyone having trouble with the side panel fitment. This kind of thing is just how it is when you use every bit of space that exists to fit a better battery.