any tricks to new throttle cables



8 replies to this topic
  • lewichris

Posted May 10, 2002 - 06:50 AM

#1

i am going to put them on tonight. Any tricks to it. Also so you all know TERRYCABLE said they would recable them for like 12 bucks. Id it worth it for them to do this for a backup set? Thanks

Chris

  • YAMAKAZE

Posted May 10, 2002 - 07:02 AM

#2

You know you don't have to remove the carb to change the cables right?

Just remove them at the throttle and loosen the two carb clamps on the intake and manifold, rotate the carb sideways to the left (Shifter Side) remove the two allen screws from the cable shield and disconnect the cables, thread the new ones, and Install in reverse order and your finnished...

Takes me about 20 minutes from start to idle...

Good Luck Chris...

Sorry: If your cable shields are in good shape it would make sense to have them redone, But if they have already been worn from rubbing on the head guide or frame, youre better off to just buy another set to keep in your tool box.

Bonzai :)

[ May 10, 2002: Message edited by: YAMAKAZE ]

  • Sean_McCutcheon

Posted May 10, 2002 - 08:04 AM

#3

What does Yamakazee mean by cable shield. Is that the black cover that covers up the throttle wheel on the carb. If it is mine only has one allen screw not two. I am also replacing my cables tonight.

  • Hick

Posted May 10, 2002 - 08:07 AM

#4

You may try fiddling with the tension adjustments/cable lengths to try and mitigate cable fraying.

In my case running the lower cable very short and the upper very long keeps the fraying to a minimum.

On my '00 I actually removed the bracket and bent it slightly to keep the cable from rubbing the tube, but I haven't resorted to that on my '01.

Hope this helps.

BTW I've never had a problem R&Ring the cables with the carb completely installed. It requires a little dexterity but for me is easier than pulling the carb out the other side and then pulling the cables back taut after you put the carb back on.

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  • YAMAKAZE

Posted May 10, 2002 - 08:44 AM

#5

Sean, Throttle wheel cover: Some Models have 2 Allen screws and others have just 1, I have run across both.

The Cable shields are the covering that the cables run through from the Throttle to the Carb.

Do your hands a favor and rotate the carb before you try to pull the allen head screw off. If you try to do the cable change with the carb in the upright position you will have to first remove the Coil from the side frame and then have a allen wrench that is atleast 6 inches long to get to it (The angle sucks as well and is a PITA to get back in...But I won't do it that way anymore after tearing the skin off my knuckles. While you have the carb turned it is a good time to put a little lube on the throttle return spring..(Most Neglected spring on the bike, sometimes it gets a little lube if you use a cable luber, but not much). You can use the same procedure I outlined above to change out jets in the carb without having to completely remove the carb...which makes the job very easy....

Also remember to clean and replace the lube between the throttle tube and the handle bar while your at it.

Happy Wrenching

Bonzai :)

[ May 10, 2002: Message edited by: YAMAKAZE ]

  • Mark_Cantrell

Posted May 11, 2002 - 03:52 AM

#6

Sean,

What Yamakaze said. In 01(?, 00?) the carbs changed.

1. Two screws on throttle pulley cover, now one.
2. Needed to twist carb to get to back one, now don't.
3. Hot start mounted on frame, now on carb.
4. Coil in the way, now in front.
5. Bolt in bottom of bowl presented only main jet, now presents main, pilot, and starter.
6. no leak jet, now leak jet(at least on 250F)
7. Entirely different AP actuators, now BK mod friendly.

I'm sure there are others, this is just from helping a guy with a 400 at the track.

Good luck,
mwc

  • Hick

Posted May 11, 2002 - 09:23 PM

#7

Originally posted by Mark Cantrell:
Sean,

What Yamakaze said. In 01(?, 00?) the carbs changed.

1. Two screws on throttle pulley cover, now one.
2. Needed to twist carb to get to back one, now don't.
3. Hot start mounted on frame, now on carb.
4. Coil in the way, now in front.
5. Bolt in bottom of bowl presented only main jet, now presents main, pilot, and starter.
6. no leak jet, now leak jet(at least on 250F)
7. Entirely different AP actuators, now BK mod friendly.

I'm sure there are others, this is just from helping a guy with a 400 at the track.

Good luck,
mwc


8. Used a different pilot jet, particular to the FCR only, now uses same as PWK.

Yamaha went to their proprietary design, the "Flat CR" vs FCR, starting in '00.

  • Sean_McCutcheon

Posted May 13, 2002 - 12:44 AM

#8

Thanks for your help guys.

  • lewichris

Posted May 13, 2002 - 04:20 AM

#9

hey i dotn know what my problem was. they went in no problem. Pretty easy. thanks for the help.

Chris




 
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