new spring install 08wr450


13 replies to this topic
  • Demo_Slug

Posted April 15, 2008 - 03:38 PM

#1

I got my new springs front and rear .48 front and 5.8 rear…. Yay!!!

I was going to toss them in tonight. Anybody want to give me any hints? :thumbsup:

On the fork do I just pull the caps off and change springs?

On the rear shock how much disassembly is needed? do I need to remove the rear sub frame or remove the rear wheel???? Or can I pretty much just unbolt it? :thumbsup:

  • Demo_Slug

Posted April 15, 2008 - 11:30 PM

#2

well... I only did the rear spring tonight.
I removed the seat, tank, muffler and the bottom bolts of the sub frame and folded the sub frame up( which requires the carb air boot and to hoses to be disconnected).

the 5.8 spring is bigger and longer....
the air boot was nearly impossible to re install on the carb, with the stock spring (with preload) the boot just slips past and pops on to the crab, I had to grease the boot and put a lot of pre load on the spring to get enough room for the air boot to pop back onto the carb. I think there is clearence between the boot and the spring... I sure hope the spring doesn't put a hole in my air boot.

I'm 230 and I ended up with 1 inch of pre sag and 4 inches of sag. I guess I could have gone with a heavyer spring. and I'll see if the new front spring changes my rear sag.

if anybody wants to give me a hint or trick about the fork springs let me know.

  • clark4131

Posted April 16, 2008 - 05:17 AM

#3

The best hint I can give you is to loosen ONLY the top triple clamp to loosen the fork cap. Then do the bottom clamp and take the fork out completely. It a pretty easy procedure. Make sure you put in new for oil as well. I'm 230 and I put it 7.5 weight oil with the level raised to about the middle of the range...SC

  • Demo_Slug

Posted April 16, 2008 - 08:37 AM

#4

The best hint I can give you is to loosen ONLY the top triple clamp to loosen the fork cap. Then do the bottom clamp and take the fork out completely. It a pretty easy procedure. Make sure you put in new for oil as well. I'm 230 and I put it 7.5 weight oil with the level raised to about the middle of the range...SC


so, I have to take the fork tubes off??? is that for the springs or is that to dump the oil out?

  • oldmanx

Posted April 16, 2008 - 08:37 AM

#5

well... I only did the rear spring tonight.
I removed the seat, tank, muffler and the bottom bolts of the sub frame and folded the sub frame up( which requires the carb air boot and to hoses to be disconnected).

the 5.8 spring is bigger and longer....
the air boot was nearly impossible to re install on the carb, with the stock spring (with preload) the boot just slips past and pops on to the crab, I had to grease the boot and put a lot of pre load on the spring to get enough room for the air boot to pop back onto the carb. I think there is clearence between the boot and the spring... I sure hope the spring doesn't put a hole in my air boot.

I'm 230 and I ended up with 1 inch of pre sag and 4 inches of sag. I guess I could have gone with a heavyer spring. and I'll see if the new front spring changes my rear sag.

if anybody wants to give me a hint or trick about the fork springs let me know.


Now you have me concerned. I'm 250, but plan to lose 20 or so. The spring calculator said that I needed a 5.92...so my choice was between a 5.8 and a 6.0 I went with the softer of the 2 because of my weight loss thing and because I ride mainly woods...don't do jumps, mx, etc. A 5.8 has to be considerably better than the stock (5.3??)...correct?
As for the fitment issue, I guess that I'll need to plan this job for a day when I have plenty of time...like when the weather is too bad to ride.

  • Demo_Slug

Posted April 16, 2008 - 12:08 PM

#6

Now you have me concerned. I'm 250, but plan to lose 20 or so. The spring calculator said that I needed a 5.92...so my choice was between a 5.8 and a 6.0 I went with the softer of the 2 because of my weight loss thing and because I ride mainly woods...don't do jumps, mx, etc. A 5.8 has to be considerably better than the stock (5.3??)...correct?
As for the fitment issue, I guess that I'll need to plan this job for a day when I have plenty of time...like when the weather is too bad to ride.


It really only took me 4 hours, which included a break for dinner.

The 2 time saving tricks I learned was that you can pivot the sub frame up. as long as you’ve already un done the hose clamp , the air intake boot will just pop off as you pivot the sub frame up.

And The big time saving trick I learned was that you need to crank the preload on the shock spring before you try and slip the air intake boot back onto the carb.

BTW, The muffler is very easy to get off.

It will probably only take me 2 hours next time.

in regards to sag:

With a stock front spring, I was able to set the preload on the rear spring to get me 4.5 inches of sag. which, got me a lot more traction on the front wheel. and really got rid of my front end washout issue. But I only had a half inch of pre sag. which I think made the bike ride very harsh on the trails.

Your sag can change depending on how far back you sit. Might have been better had I checked sag while standing on the pegs, I sat in my normal ride position. So the whole thing is kinda subjective.

I expect my stiffer front spring will raise the front and transfer some weight back.. if the fork spring does change my rear sag then the 5.8 is probably a tiny bit light for me. But, I’m on a diet too. Its my dirt bike diet. Instead of eating I wrench on my bike.

  • Stoy66

Posted April 16, 2008 - 06:32 PM

#7

No need to undo the carb boot. Just remove the muffler, and remove all subframe bolts. Once you have the shock bolts removed, just pull the subframe slightly to the left side and there is plenty of room to get the shock out. I just did mine tonight. Richard at House of Horsepower told me how to do this. Do a search on www.youtube.com for changing shock springs and it will show you how easy it is. Doing my forks tomorrow. I just changed my fork seals and oil 2 weeks ago. To get to the springs all you need to do is unscrew the cap then use a wrench on the rod connected to the cap. Unscrew the cap from the rod, pull spring off, replace spring, screw back together. I followed the instructions in the manual.

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  • Demo_Slug

Posted April 16, 2008 - 08:05 PM

#8

No need to undo the carb boot. Just remove the muffler, and remove all subframe bolts. Once you have the shock bolts removed, just pull the subframe slightly to the left side and there is plenty of room to get the shock out. I just did mine tonight. Richard at House of Horsepower told me how to do this. Do a search on www.youtube.com for changing shock springs and it will show you how easy it is. Doing my forks tomorrow. I just changed my fork seals and oil 2 weeks ago. To get to the springs all you need to do is unscrew the cap then use a wrench on the rod connected to the cap. Unscrew the cap from the rod, pull spring off, replace spring, screw back together. I followed the instructions in the manual.


:thumbsup:
so is the WR fork a dual chamber or a cartridge type?

or


  • SXP

Posted April 17, 2008 - 01:12 AM

#9

The best hint I can give you is to loosen ONLY the top triple clamp to loosen the fork cap. Then do the bottom clamp and take the fork out completely. It a pretty easy procedure. Make sure you put in new for oil as well. I'm 230 and I put it 7.5 weight oil with the level raised to about the middle of the range...SC



Steve you are a candidate for Mobil 1 ATF (the full syn stuff). Just try it. It's in the same viscosity ball park you are using now and the feel is just....plush and slick! Doesn't fade either after a hard day of riding. You can thank me later :thumbsup:

  • clark4131

Posted April 17, 2008 - 11:42 AM

#10

Steve you are a candidate for Mobil 1 ATF (the full syn stuff). Just try it. It's in the same viscosity ball park you are using now and the feel is just....plush and slick! Doesn't fade either after a hard day of riding. You can thank me later :rant:


I'll give it a whirl the next time I get in there. I'm pretty happy with the way things are now, but I'm sure I'll have to change it out soon. I've got some Amsoil ATF, so I'm thinking that may work as well. It's certainly cheaper since I've already got some. I've only been out a few times this year due to snow. Don't tell anybody, but I've been spending time on my new quad and having a blast :thumbsup: :ride: :lol: ...SC

  • Demo_Slug

Posted April 17, 2008 - 01:38 PM

#11

so, is the WR fork a dual chamber or a cartridge type?

  • SXP

Posted April 17, 2008 - 01:50 PM

#12

so, is the WR fork a dual chamber or a cartridge type?


Cartridge type. We got screwed on the forks.

  • Demo_Slug

Posted April 17, 2008 - 03:40 PM

#13

Cartridge type. We got screwed on the forks.


at least it looks like it will be easyier to change the springs on the cartridge fork. :thumbsup:

  • Stoy66

Posted April 17, 2008 - 05:25 PM

#14

:thumbsup:
so is the WR fork a dual chamber or a cartridge type?

or


It's the cartridge type. Way easy to do, did mine tonight. Ain't Youtube GREAT!




 
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