Turns barley work when headlight is lit
Posted April 10, 2008 - 04:46 PM
Posted April 10, 2008 - 04:52 PM
Posted April 10, 2008 - 05:14 PM
Sounds like your battery is dying/dead and that can act as a short. Go to batteries.com and get a new one for $9.
I bought the $30 replacement from BD when I needed one and it lasted me 3 months.
I am almost 2 years running stong on my $9 steal from batteries.com
Posted April 11, 2008 - 03:44 AM
WHAT WAS THE BATTERY MODEL NUMBER YOU USED FROM BATTERIES.COM
Posted April 11, 2008 - 05:47 AM
Posted April 11, 2008 - 06:00 AM
I cannot remember he batteries.com model number but someone posted in on here about a year ago.
Posted April 11, 2008 - 06:07 AM
Batteries.com has some good prices and ive seen some on ebay also with low prices.
Posted April 11, 2008 - 08:20 AM
Also, could replace the turn sig bulbs with LED bayonet-base bulbs.
Since you don't really need the battery much, as long as the headlight is bright enough, you could forego the stator upgrade.
Posted April 11, 2008 - 09:08 AM
Posted April 11, 2008 - 12:05 PM
I usually go to napa 1st myself, as well.
Posted April 11, 2008 - 12:29 PM
Posted April 11, 2008 - 12:53 PM
I Will Yank It Out Tomorrow And Go To A Few Places.that Should Take Care Of The Problem And I Should Not Need My Battery Anymore?
No, keep the battery in there, the system needs it, I think.
Its just that it doesn't really matter if the battery is well-charged or not.
Posted April 11, 2008 - 12:54 PM
With the stock stator you barely have enough juice to run everything. If the turn signals are normal bulbs they use about 20 watts each and 2 are on at the same time. At a stop the coil is only putting out 30 or so watts and the headlight and turn signals are wanting at least 75 if not more depending on the headlight wattage. That little battery is trying hard to keep the voltage up, but it is small and not really up to the task.
One question, what wattage headlight bulb do you have. With the stock stator you really need to use the 35 watt version. It should work, but it it is not really useable at night. Only a problem if you plan to ride at night. If you have a 55 watt, that is a big part of the problem.
The small battery in the kit is mainly to run the tail light when the engine quits. That is what it is sized for. Out here in California a motorcycle has to have a battery that will light up the tail light for 15 or 20 minutes with the engine off.
Solutions. From cheap to expensive. Most of these can be combined.
First no stator upgrade.
- Be sure that you are running a 35 watt bulb
- Use an electronic flasher. The non electronic ones rely on heating a metal bar inside the unit. The heat makes it bend breaking the circuit. It cools and makes contact again. That is how it flashes. If there is not enough juice to really light up the turn signals the metal bar doesn't get hot enough and it stops flashing.
- Bigger battery. A bigger battery can supply enough juice at idle to flash the turn signals.
- Go LED on the turn signals and tail light. LED's use a lot less juice and this can reduce the usage down to what the stock stator can provide. LED signals only will flash with an electronic flasher.
second plan, upgrade the stator. If you go with a commercial unit they are wound for high wattage and tend to suffer the same problem. I have a baja designs rewound stator and I am converting my signals to LED because of the very same problem that you are having. They do put out enough to keep the battery charged and will work better than the stock stator.
DIY rewind. This might be the best solution. You can rewind it as one coil over all the stator poles. This will give enough juice to run the flashers really bright at idle. You will only get 130 to 150 watts, but it is all available at idle unlike the commercial that give 200 to 250 watts.
Posted April 11, 2008 - 04:20 PM
Posted April 11, 2008 - 05:44 PM
Posted April 11, 2008 - 05:46 PM
2 prong will work but 3 is fine too, it just needs its own individual ground. I like redundant grounds especially on bikes so I have a 3 prong on mine.
+1 on that. I like the 3 prong ones better as well.
Try and get one that will work with LED's in case you want to change to them later. I'm not 100% sure that all electronic ones are LED compatible or not.
Posted April 11, 2008 - 08:56 PM
I have just finished installing turn signals on my 95 xr600r.
I got stock stator, stock headlight - 35W, taillight w/t stop light.
Turn signals - front - ufo oklahoma handguards with turn signals, rear - acerbis.
If i'm not wrong bulbs are 10W each.
I dont have any battery in the system, so i needed :
- switch - K&S universal switch
- turn signals
- splice connectors
- wire conduit
It's all connected to the headlight cable.
I needed 2 flashers - in my case auto zone - thermal flasher - brand is tridon or something, type 552, 2 prong - X for the input power, L for the output.
I bet there is plenty of those that work... or not, but this one does work. One thing seemed strange - flasher did not work when connected to one blinker only, but when i connected both of them, it did work. So it's one flasher per 2 turn signals - one for the left, one for the right. I placed them under the seat, in the upper part of the air filter box.
When the bike is at idle i can run both headlight & turn signals. Headlight dims a little bit but not that much. I can use it at the stoplights for sure. When the engine get some rpms there is no more dimming.
The only thing i got left to do is to buy a wider wire conduit, so I can hide some of those cables from the switch, and that 9 pin connector.
It's the first time i did this kind of work on my bike ( first bike )
I hope everything is gonna work for more than a week.....
Good luck with those turnsignals.
Posted April 12, 2008 - 06:58 AM
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