sprocket gearing input needed 04 wr


12 replies to this topic
  • waterman7474

Posted March 31, 2008 - 09:29 PM

#1

i have an 04 that to be honest, is a handful. well, i'm kinda new at the dirt bike scene (been on road 2wheelers) but i'm getting better quickly, but i digress. the guy i got it from has it very well set up; racetech and more notably, i think he's put in the yz timing and/or cam or hotcam or something, it makes stupid power if i can keep the rear hooked up! the problem is, i'm trying to ease off the death defying stuff. mostly i'm trail riding and honestly, it's got MORE than enough power down low, too much! going up tight hills, i'm having trouble with too much power or off. i've been told i need to feather the clutch a little more but it just has so much brute force!

so, i would really like to tone it down a little on the low end. i don't want to kill it but as it is, i rarely use first gear cause it doesn't last long. so it has been suggested that i just work with the sprockets. currently it has 13/50.

what do yall suggest i move to.

  • 123BigcoopDawg576

Posted March 31, 2008 - 10:11 PM

#2

so, i would really like to tone it down a little on the low end.

if your looking for less of a "hit" or less torch then try stock gearing for that bike 14/50

i rarely use first gear cause it doesn't last long.

even with 15/48 first is short!

so it has been suggested that i just work with the sprockets. currently it has 13/50

if i was you i would buy two front sprockets...they are cheap and easy to change and will work with your stock chain....get a 14 and 15 try them out and see what you like...when im not desert riding or dual sporting or doing long baja rides i found 14/48 to be just about right

  • canyonclimb

Posted April 01, 2008 - 02:20 AM

#3

going from 13-14...hmm
the best thing I ever did to my 04 450 was put the 13 t on in. I know it may not last high end as the 14t, but on tight trails(what I love riding) you can drop down into first and rarely ever need to touch the clutch. that 13t will roll over anything. I guess it really depends on the rider. I kill the bike 20% less with the 13t on in the tight stuff. when I ride dunes and open trails, I throw the 14t back on it.
Notice how I used the word "I" alot. test em out and find out what works for "you". I wouldn't recommend using the 15t anyway.
Canyon

  • waterman7474

Posted April 01, 2008 - 05:57 AM

#4

let me correct that, i have a 14/50....a 14 up front. most of the problem is when i'm in the in some steeper, short little hill climbs there is too much power. it's really hard for me to keep the front end under control and down in first.

i'm not into "riding tight and fast" or harescrambles or the track or anything like that. i mostly cruise around and explore trails, get into it every once and a while and occasionally ride the dunes.

maybe i just need to learn how to play the clutch..?

  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted April 01, 2008 - 06:29 AM

#5

I went through the same thing. I'm not agressive enough, so I wanted it to be able to crawl up hills better. I went to a 13t front. Awesome low end, but it was geared too low. I did like it better than the 14 tooth.

The answer was that I then went to the 48 rear. That put me somewhere in the middle and I am happy with that. Its still scary fast, but it now pulls a lot better on the bottom end without clutching so much.

13/48 is a great combination

  • face_plant

Posted April 01, 2008 - 01:33 PM

#6

14/52 is what i got and i wish i could spin the rear tire (
fenders are expensive

try using second uphills

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  • byggd

Posted April 01, 2008 - 03:46 PM

#7

I say keep the 13/50 set up for your type of riding and do hills in 2nd and 3rd. It makes 1st kind of useless but at least you don't have to worry about down shiffting on a hill climb and finding neutral. Man I hate when that happens! :prof:

  • MaxPower

Posted April 01, 2008 - 04:41 PM

#8

[COLOR="Green"]what pipe do you have on it?[/COLOR]

  • waterman7474

Posted April 01, 2008 - 05:57 PM

#9

14/52 is what i got and i wish i could spin the rear tire (
fenders are expensive


not sure i follow here?

[COLOR="Green"]what pipe do you have on it?[/COLOR]


it's a fmf factory 4.1. it is a little too loud and i'm probably gonna switch it out...why?

  • MaxPower

Posted April 02, 2008 - 01:10 AM

#10

it's a fmf factory 4.1. it is a little too loud and i'm probably gonna switch it out...why?

[COLOR="Green"]Because earlier this year I removed the DB Dawg silencer insert from my pipe. I had a YZ450 pipe on it and installed an insert when I first got it. I never rode the bike without it.After I removed it, the bike was a monster.I was the opposite of you and liked the bike like to be really fast. So I am saying that maybe if you restrict the pipe a little, it may detune the motor to your liking.Those inserts are only 30 dollars and defiantly makes the bike quieter and less power.[/COLOR]

  • byggd

Posted April 02, 2008 - 04:19 AM

#11

not sure i follow here??


I think he's saying no wheel spin=too much traction=loop out=broken fender

  • waterman7474

Posted April 02, 2008 - 05:30 AM

#12

gotcha
i've thought about that but....detuning it....isn't there a law against making something slower....:prof: maybe a man law...?!

  • EvoChris

Posted April 02, 2008 - 07:26 AM

#13

gotcha
i've thought about that but....detuning it....isn't there a law against making something slower....:prof: maybe a man law...?!




:bonk: :confused: ;) :ride: :ride: :ride: :ride: how correct you are!




 
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