Rekluse Recommendation - Rotella 15W40


5 replies to this topic
  • angrybob

Posted March 28, 2008 - 12:09 PM

#1

I am installing a Rekluse z-Start Pro tonight in my '06 YZ450f. I called Rekluse to confirm whether or not they recommended a specific viscosity or type or brand of oil that works best with their autoclutch. The guy recommended the regular dino Rotella 15W40 (white bottle) that is made for diesel engines.

I have been using the full synthetic 5W40 Rotella in my Aprilia street bikes for years with no trouble and trust the brand. My problem is with the non-synthetic. I have been using Castrol Syntec semi-synthetic 20W50 in my 426 for five years now w/ no problems either.

My plan is to change the oil every 10 hours or so, which leads me to think that the interval is short enough that dino oil is fine. I like the price and availability of Rotella, but one siezed engine isn't worth it.

I am not trying to rehash any of the Great Oil Debates. I am curious though if anyone is currently using the dino Rotella 15W40 and if so, what interval is your oil change?

I know there are additives in diesel engine oil not found in gasoline engine oil, but what would the benefit be to my thumper engine if any?

  • grayracer513

Posted March 28, 2008 - 12:18 PM

#2

If you are going to use Rotella in either flavor, you'll want to change it every ride, 3 hours run time, more or less, at most.

The problem has no relation to its base oil, but that the viscosity index improver additives used (the additives that give the oil its multi grade capabilities) are not durable enough to be used in an engine that shares oil with a transmission. Either oil will become more like a ?w-30 in a very short time. The Castrol you are running in your 426 does that too, BTW.

  • bg10459

Posted March 28, 2008 - 12:22 PM

#3

I have run dino Rotella, but I'm currently going through 2 gallons of syn Rotella. When I'm done, I'll switch back to the dino.
Either way, I change my oil and clean the filter every ride day or weekend. That's 1.5 to 2 hours on a race day, about 5 hours on a trail ride day, and maybe 15 hours on a dual sport weekend.

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  • erickdj

Posted March 28, 2008 - 02:59 PM

#4

If you are going to use Rotella in either flavor, you'll want to change it every ride, 3 hours run time, more or less, at most.

The problem has no relation to its base oil, but that the viscosity index improver additives used (the additives that give the oil its multi grade capabilities) are not durable enough to be used in an engine that shares oil with a transmission. Either oil will become more like a ?w-30 in a very short time. The Castrol you are running in your 426 does that too, BTW.


Man, that's pretty damn short for oil life. So, if rotella 15-40 should be changed every ride, Which oil would be safe to use over a period of 4 rides/ or an average of 250-300 miles of trail riding? (mostly hard riding, not granny style slow trail ride.) On the WR forum most people swear by rotella 15-40 for usage of more than just one ride. :prof: :bonk: :confused:

  • bg10459

Posted March 28, 2008 - 03:06 PM

#5

Bikes with shared trans/engine oil are very hard on the oil. Not many oils will stay in grade very long.
Search around THIS site and look at VOA's and UOA's for various oils in different machines for different change intervals. Then make your own decision.

http://www.bobistheo.../ubbthreads.php

  • grayracer513

Posted March 28, 2008 - 07:53 PM

#6

Man, that's pretty damn short for oil life. So, if rotella 15-40 should be changed every ride, Which oil would be safe to use over a period of 4 rides/ or an average of 250-300 miles of trail riding? (mostly hard riding, not granny style slow trail ride.) On the WR forum most people swear by rotella 15-40 for usage of more than just one ride. :prof: :bonk: :confused:

Oil is required to resist a lot of bad things, but most engine oils hold up much longer than the intervals I mentioned when used in an engine. Transmissions are another matter. Rotella and most other good, high quality engine oils hold up very well in a bike like the YZF in every way but one: viscosity retention.

Multi grade oils are made by starting with a light weight base stock and modifying it with additives called viscosity index improvers (VII) to keep them from thinning with heat as much as they ordinarily would. When you see a 15w-40 oil, you see a 15 weight oil that has been formulated so that it is no thinner than a straight 40 weight when both oils are heated to 212 F.

The molecules of the VII additives are big and most of those used in engine oils get ground up pretty easily in a transmission. This results is the loss of viscosity at high (read "normal operating") temperatures, and most engine oils quickly drop one full grade level or more under such use.

Because the oil blenders wanted to create multigrade gear lubes that would have reasonable service lives, new VII's were synthesized that are more durable, and not so quickly shredded in a gearbox. They are, however, more expensive, so since they don't need them, most blenders of oils intended for automotive engines don't use them. Some of the best blended specialty motorcycle oils do, however, and that is what I am talking about. Amsoil MCF and MCV hold up far better than most in the role of an engine/trans lube, as does Mobil 1 Racing 4T and V-Twin, and some others.

As for your 4 ride question, I run Amsoil MCF, and I change it every 3 rides. I recently did a UOA on a sample of that oil that I ran for 4 straight desert days in my son's bike over the New Year's weekend. That oil came back at 13.2 cSt at 212 F, which is well within grade as a 40 weight.





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