Tutorial - YZ450F (06 & up) Electrical System For Lights


144 replies to this topic
  • swatdoc

Posted March 24, 2008 - 09:08 PM

#1

Ok, a few of you have asked for an outline of how I wired my 07 450 for lights to make it street legal. So here it is - hope it's helpful. Please note - this is A way to do it, I'm not saying it's THE way to do it. I'l give you my reasons why I did things the way I did along the way.

First off, you'll need a different stator with a seperate circuit to power some or all of your lights. As we've discussed previously, there are a few ways to do this If money is no object, pick up a 07 WR450 crank, ignition cover, and stator. You will need to split your cases to install the WR crank. This setup will give you the most power output (watts) BY FAR - but the drawback is cost - you're looking at around $1000 with labor, or about $600 - $800 if you do all the labor yourself, including welding up the hole in the WR ignition cover where the starter would go.
That's a lot of money, and frankly way more hassle than I wanted to do, so I went with the cheaper option, which if we choose our components carefully, will be just fine.

So option 2 involves either having your stock stator rewound by Lake and Trail, or buying a replacement lighting stator from either Electrosport or Moose. I bought both, and they appear to be the exact unit. Expect to pay between $165 - $195 for a stator. I think Lake & Trail charges around $225 to rewind your stocker, if my memory is correct. (also - for our European brothers - there is a U.K. company making a stator for our bike: http://www.electrexw...rol.html#9354X0 )

Before we go any farther, when deciding between option 1 or 2, determine how much night riding you will be doing and how important a really strong headlight will be for you.
The WR stator option will give you 100+ watts to play with, even more if you go with a aftermarket Trail Tech flywheel with stronger magnets. This much wattage will alow you to run a 50+ watt headlight which will be WAY better at night that a 35 watt light. Rewinding the stock stator or buying the Moose/Electrosport stator will net you about 50 watts AC power or about 34-40 if you convert it to DC. (More on that later) 50 Watts is barely enough to run a 35 watt headlight and an LED tail light. Not very bright at night! But for me, I really don't plan on ever riding my bike at night, and on the rare occasion I might, all the roads i'd be on are lit - so no big deal. My headlight setup is primarily to pass inspection to get my plate. Depending on your needs, chose accordingly.

OK - here's a pic of the Moose stator in the stock YZ ignition cover. Note the 2 extra wires - A black wire which goes to the chassis ground, and a yellow wire which is the hot lead for your lights.

Posted Image

You will also need either a voltage regulator if you plan on running the system AC to keep the voltage from going past 12 volts and frying a light, or a regulator/rectifier to also convert the output from AC to DC. Electrosport has the regulators for about $20, and Trail Tech has the regulator/rectifiers. Halogen headlights and a Baja Designs LED tail light will both run fine on AC, so I left mine AC. With DC, you can run HID lights. You can also install a battery if you want. Only problem is that a rectifier will eat up available watts and leave you with only 35-40 watts - and that's cutting it real close when just the headlight needs 35. Now I know an LED tail light only needs 1 watt, but remember our 50 watt stator only puts out 50 watts at half to full throttle. When you're cruising on the freeway at 1/4 throttle, the output WILL be less! Now if you run an HID light from Trail Tech, it only uses 19 watts - but it's not DOT legal, so you need to think about that. A LED tail light is pretty much mandatory, as regular bulbs use about 20-25 watts themselves, and that coupled with the 35 watt headlight puts you over the capabilities of the system. This is why I say component choice is critical.

Again, I stuck with AC to have more available watts, and used a 35 watt headlight with a 1 watt LED tail light.

I also recomend using good waterproof connectors like Weathertight. I also use a waterproof mini fuse holder to hold a 5 watt fuse to protect the system. Here's a pic of those items:

Posted Image

Fuse holders here: http://www.bmotorspo...products_id/506

Weathertight connectors here: http://www.shopatron...d=MSD8173/424.0

I mounted my regulator behind my front skidplate. The slots in the plate allow air to cool the regulator:

Posted Image

Here you can see the fuse holder and weathertight connector. I cut the yellow and black wires from the stator a few inches out to mount the connector and splice in the regulator:

Posted Image

Here's the wiring schematic i used for the headlight and tail light:

Posted Image

The brake light switch is a hydraulic unit I got from Forrest at Wheeling Cycle. It replaces the banjo bolt on your rear brake at the master cylinder. The headlight high/low beam switch / horn / signal cluster is sold by Trail Tech.

Now for turn signals and horn, I used battery powered units because I really don't have much power left, and I'm gonna take them off after i get my plate anyway. For signals, i used led units from K&S - only use 1 watt and are dot approved ($100 a pair though). For my horn, I used a "megahorn" which is a self contained 9 volt battery horn:

Posted Image

To power the turn signals, i just got a 8cell AA battery holder from Radio Shack. I used an LED specific flasher unit , also from Forrest at Wheeling. I just sat the battery pack in the airbox, along with the flasher.

Posted Image

(after I get my plate, all this mess of wiring will be sleeved and generally cleaned up)

That's pretty much it guys - a very basic system to get your YZ street legal with the bare minimum. I'm probably forgetting something here - just ask and I'll help with any more questions.

  • bigdanner

Posted March 25, 2008 - 02:49 PM

#2

I wouldn't recommend trying the WR450 stator option.
For one, the WR450F has no exciter coil. It has only charging coils and runs the ignition directly from the battery. The YZ450f has coils that supply power for the ignition so you would have to get the CDI and rectifier to run the stator.
Not to mention you would need a battery (at least a small nicad) or a large capacitor to make that work.

All in all, I'd say you did it the only economical way!

  • grayracer513

Posted March 25, 2008 - 03:19 PM

#3

I see an input for battery power at the WR CDI, but I also see an unregulated to the CDI. I also see that there is no direct connection to the ignition coil from the battery. I'd have to look into this further.

Are you, however, telling me that you can't kick start a WR without battery voltage?

  • SXP

Posted March 25, 2008 - 08:06 PM

#4

I wouldn't recommend trying the WR450 stator option.
For one, the WR450F has no exciter coil. It has only charging coils and runs the ignition directly from the battery.



I dunno about that. I can disconnect the battery from my 07 WR and it will (kick) start and run just fine until the cows come home. And, I believe it's been this way since 03 and on since my neighbor has shed all the unnecessary weight (starter, battery etc.) from his 03 WR 450 and it hasn't missed a beat since.

  • tnl

Posted March 25, 2008 - 08:17 PM

#5

Nice job Swatdoc! What kind of current does the Trail Tech Vapor unit draw? Also, double check all those Electro Sport stator backing plate bolts and make sure they are all tight. Mine had 5 bolts total that were all stripped out of the box. Received a new one from them with no hassle though. BTW, I don't see any dirt anywhere on or near your bike....

  • swatdoc

Posted March 25, 2008 - 11:34 PM

#6

Thanks TNL

The Vapor draws an extremely small amount of current - in fact it's wired directly to the stock 6 wire connector and the bike doesn't miss a beat. Don't even need an aftermarket stator to run it.

Ya know, one of mine was stripped too - but I had to replace the whole thing anyway due to a manufacturing defect, so it was no big deal, but now that you remind me, I'm gonna check all the bolts on my Moose stator now.

Ha - only got about 30-40 minutes on my bike - just running back and forth getting my bike inspected. Just got my license plate today, so it'll be getting more mileage soon! But, I ride 99% on the street and always keep my bikes looking new and clean as possible.

  • RJB

Posted March 26, 2008 - 07:20 PM

#7

I see an input for battery power at the WR CDI, but I also see an unregulated to the CDI. I also see that there is no direct connection to the ignition coil from the battery. I'd have to look into this further.

Are you, however, telling me that you can't kick start a WR without battery voltage?


On my 07 WR, you can pull the battery and still start/run the bike no problem.

  • bigdanner

Posted March 27, 2008 - 02:10 PM

#8

I dunno about that. I can disconnect the battery from my 07 WR and it will (kick) start and run just fine until the cows come home. And, I believe it's been this way since 03 and on since my neighbor has shed all the unnecessary weight (starter, battery etc.) from his 03 WR 450 and it hasn't missed a beat since.


The ones I've seen will kickstart and idle, but when you get into higher RPMs it starts breaking up. It runs fine when you add a capacitor or any small battery like a nicad pack.

  • MikeDD

Posted April 01, 2008 - 12:15 AM

#9

Wow, nice write up Swatdoc! All 06+ lighting questions have been answered :prof:

  • tnat1

Posted April 01, 2008 - 05:07 AM

#10

If you just want to get by you can do what i did and that is to run a all battery powered system. I have a baja designs tailight powered by a 4.2 amp rc car battery. I had it turned on for over 24 hours and only saw 0.5volts drop. I did the same thing with the banjo bolt switch wired to the tailight as my brake light. I also wired up a on off switch that ihave routed out the right side panel vent. It fits perfectly in the knook. For the front i picked up a Cygo light Mtn bike led headlight
that appears to be brighter then the cyclops head light i had before on my drz. It also has a high/low thumb switch. On high setting it gets 25 hrs run time and low 100hrs on 4 c batterys. Im looking into getting another Rc car battery pack to wire into it for longer run time. I can install and remove the entire system in less then 10 mins. thats front battery, light and rear taillight, battery pack. Most of the riding i would do on the street is during the day. if i plan on doing night rides i would invest in a more powerful headlight, But the one i have is good enough to get by. Just check out the links to the lites they have some bright ass lites.

http://www.cygolite..../HiFlux100.html

http://www.batterysp...ROD&ProdID=2216


Here is some pics of the bike.

http://www.free-pich...63D2CTT/345.jpg

http://www.free-pich...63D2CTT/346.jpg

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • swatdoc

Posted April 02, 2008 - 04:57 PM

#11

Mike - finally got my bike "done" (if it will ever actually be finished) and plated - ready to ride now! Gonna get some pics up tonite.

Tnat - funny I just picked up an HID light from Trail Tech to mess with. It puts out a lot of light and only pulls 13 watts - enough for 6 hours run time on a battery. I can also run it off my stator if I convert it to DC. Since it only pulls 13 watts, it should be OK even though rectifying loses some of the power. Main thing is I could get rid of the humongus front headlight and run my stock front numberplate, with the smaller Trail tech light mounted on the bars like you.

  • YZ125 DR650

Posted April 14, 2008 - 04:53 AM

#12

could you post the exact part numbers of the turn signals / lights you used? it would be much appreciated
Thanks
Chris

  • swatdoc

Posted April 14, 2008 - 12:29 PM

#13

turn signals - led units at the bottom of the page #25-9900D:
http://www.kandstech...niversalsignals

acerbis 35Watt headlight:
http://www.acerbis.c...light/3026.html

Baja DesignsLED tail light:
https://www.bajadesi...category=MCYCLE

  • YZ125 DR650

Posted April 14, 2008 - 06:00 PM

#14

thanks a bunch

  • x2468

Posted April 21, 2008 - 06:51 PM

#15

So if you convert to DC with a regulator, you can run a HID light? how much brighter is a HID light? do you need a battery with DC or is that just an option? Who makes good HID lights? trail tech? EE?

  • swatdoc

Posted April 21, 2008 - 06:58 PM

#16

yes, HID lights run on DC only. Just remember that converting to DC (rectifying) will sacrifice some available watts - maybe 10-15, leaving you with 35-40 watts max at upper rpms. Typically HID lights are much brighter than halogen. The Trail Tech HID light I'm gonna try pulls only 13 watts, but I'm confident it will actually be brighter that my 35 watts acerbis halogen light.
For a DC system, you will need either a battery, or a capacitor. Trail tech sells a fairly small capacitor that should work well. If you go with a battery,you need to stick with a standard battery - don't try to hook up one of the small, lightweight Lithium-Polimer or Lithium-Ion packs - you'll have major problems. Not totally sure on a NiCad pack, but I don't think it will work either - anyone want to chime in here?

  • x2468

Posted April 21, 2008 - 07:06 PM

#17

thanks for the quick reply. I don't want to use a battery so i guess i'd use a capacitor. so DC will lower my watt output, but the HID only takes 13 watts so it actually be brighter?

why are HIDs not DOT legal? that's lame.

  • x2468

Posted April 21, 2008 - 07:22 PM

#18

yes, HID lights run on DC only. Just remember that converting to DC (rectifying) will sacrifice some available watts - maybe 10-15, leaving you with 35-40 watts max at upper rpms. Typically HID lights are much brighter than halogen. The Trail Tech HID light I'm gonna try pulls only 13 watts, but I'm confident it will actually be brighter that my 35 watts acerbis halogen light.
For a DC system, you will need either a battery, or a capacitor. Trail tech sells a fairly small capacitor that should work well. If you go with a battery,you need to stick with a standard battery - don't try to hook up one of the small, lightweight Lithium-Polimer or Lithium-Ion packs - you'll have major problems. Not totally sure on a NiCad pack, but I don't think it will work either - anyone want to chime in here?



which trail tech HID are you running? and where are you mounting it? none of trail techs products look very aesthetically pleasing to me... imo

  • x2468

Posted April 21, 2008 - 07:25 PM

#19

why can't AC power a HID lamp if it puts out more WATTS than DC?

  • grayracer513

Posted April 21, 2008 - 08:55 PM

#20

In their simplest form, AC will run HID lamps, but HID lamps are equipped with ballasts, like fluorescents, in order to control the somewhat complicated starting process (they are, essentially, an arc type lamp) and many of the more sophisticated, compact, and lighter ballasts are solid state electronics that require DC to operate.





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