Clutch Replacement and Break-In


12 replies to this topic
  • BASSic

Posted March 20, 2008 - 01:46 PM

#1

I just received all the parts I ordered for my 01 YZ426 clutch replacement. 6 springs, 8 regular friction plates, one 'special' friction plate, 8 steel clutch plates, new circlip, and new lock washer.

When I bought my bike, the cable adjusters were all the way out, both at the lever and actuator arm. Thinking the cable was stretched, I replaced it and the adjusters are at the exact same place as before.

When I have the clutch disengaged and rev the bike, it jerks forward as if the clutch is not disengaging completely. Does this sound like worn or warped plates? I guess I'll find out Friday night.

My other question is regarding the break-in. I have the service manual, and if I'm not mistaken it says to put oil on the friction plates before installing them. Is it best to just soak them in oil, and if so how long? Once everything is back together, are there any precautions I should take with the new clutch to break it in (go easy with it for a specific time, use a different oil for break-in, replace oil more frequently at first, etc.)?

  • buzzgrizz

Posted March 20, 2008 - 01:55 PM

#2

i recently did my 426 clutch i soaked the friction plates in oil for a day or so can't quite remember might haave been longer and did change the oil and filter more frequently found metal in filter for 2 changes from the new parts i rode easy for the break in

  • 642MX

Posted March 20, 2008 - 06:01 PM

#3

My other question is regarding the break-in. I have the service manual, and if I'm not mistaken it says to put oil on the friction plates before installing them. Is it best to just soak them in oil, and if so how long? Once everything is back together, are there any precautions I should take with the new clutch to break it in (go easy with it for a specific time, use a different oil for break-in, replace oil more frequently at first, etc.)?


On new fibers, you should soak the plates for as long as possible. I normally soak mine for 24 hours.

For break in, just don't slip the clutch excessively for the first ride.

  • grayracer513

Posted March 20, 2008 - 06:15 PM

#4

Look this over:

http://www.thumperta...673#post6108673

  • BASSic

Posted March 25, 2008 - 07:40 AM

#5

I installed my new clutch, and it was a very simple and painless process.

It almost seems as if the pushrod isn't long enough. I have confirmed that everything is installed correctly and all parts are present, including the ball. There's a lot of travel before it makes contact with the pressure plate. I still have the cable adjusters at the lever perch and at the bottom almost all the way out, and there's not much adjustment left if my cable stretches.




Here's a picture of the arm all the way back (cable at lever is disconnected)
Posted Image

Here's the position of the arm when the pushrod makes contact with the pressure plate.
Posted Image

The cable adjusters aren't tightened up yet in those pics (I wasn't finished yet).

The clutch disengages properly when the lever is squeezed, and engages completely when I let it out. I left the required 2-3mm of free play at the lever. My concern is that I can't adjust the cable any more should it stretch. Maybe it's just my ASV levers?


My issues with the clutch not disengaging completely have gone away with the installation of the new clutch. I switched from M1 15-50 to Rotella dino 15-40, and my shifting is also much smoother.

  • grayracer513

Posted March 25, 2008 - 08:15 AM

#6

If you look under the rubber sleeve that you will find about two inches from the lever end of the cable housing, you'll find another adjuster under it that will give you a lot more range to work with.

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  • BASSic

Posted March 25, 2008 - 09:26 AM

#7

I'm not following you. Which rubber sleeve?

  • Wiz636

Posted March 25, 2008 - 09:31 AM

#8

I'm not following you. Which rubber sleeve?


There is another adjustment point on the upper portion of the clutch cable just before it connects to the clutch lever perch. You will see a rubber sleeve...just slide it back to access the adjuster.

  • grayracer513

Posted March 25, 2008 - 09:35 AM

#9

The 426 may not have a mid-cable adjuster, now that I think of it. The '06 has one because there is no bottom adjuster on them. If yours has one, it will be up close to where the cable enters the lever.

But your cable is less likey to stretch than your clutch is to wear. This is especially true of a brand new clutch. The linings will compress and wear in a little fairly early on, and wear at the clutch will cause a loss of free play, and require that you run the adjuster back in from where it currently is. I wouldn't be concerned.

  • 642MX

Posted March 25, 2008 - 04:09 PM

#10

The 426 may not have a mid-cable adjuster, now that I think of it.


Correct. The 426's only have cable adjustment at the top on the perch and at the bottom on the actuator.

  • b2yz

Posted March 25, 2008 - 06:16 PM

#11

I just received all the parts I ordered for my 01 YZ426 clutch replacement. 6 springs, 8 regular friction plates, one 'special' friction plate, 8 steel clutch plates, new circlip, and new lock washer.

When I bought my bike, the cable adjusters were all the way out, both at the lever and actuator arm. Thinking the cable was stretched, I replaced it and the adjusters are at the exact same place as before.

When I have the clutch disengaged and rev the bike, it jerks forward as if the clutch is not disengaging completely. Does this sound like worn or warped plates? I guess I'll find out Friday night.

My other question is regarding the break-in. I have the service manual, and if I'm not mistaken it says to put oil on the friction plates before installing them. Is it best to just soak them in oil, and if so how long? Once everything is back together, are there any precautions I should take with the new clutch to break it in (go easy with it for a specific time, use a different oil for break-in, replace oil more frequently at first, etc.)?

With an '01 you might see that the clutch basket is "grooved" from the plate tabs.

This will prevent the plates from pulling apart completely and you'll get the drag you mentioned (engaging even when fully pulled in)

Check both the hub and the basket before you install your new plates.

  • SXP

Posted March 26, 2008 - 06:28 AM

#12

I installed my new clutch, and it was a very simple and painless process.

It almost seems as if the pushrod isn't long enough. I have confirmed that everything is installed correctly and all parts are present, including the ball. There's a lot of travel before it makes contact with the pressure plate. I still have the cable adjusters at the lever perch and at the bottom almost all the way out, and there's not much adjustment left if my cable stretches.




Here's a picture of the arm all the way back (cable at lever is disconnected)
Posted Image

Here's the position of the arm when the pushrod makes contact with the pressure plate.
Posted Image

The cable adjusters aren't tightened up yet in those pics (I wasn't finished yet).

The clutch disengages properly when the lever is squeezed, and engages completely when I let it out. I left the required 2-3mm of free play at the lever. My concern is that I can't adjust the cable any more should it stretch. Maybe it's just my ASV levers?


My issues with the clutch not disengaging completely have gone away with the installation of the new clutch. I switched from M1 15-50 to Rotella dino 15-40, and my shifting is also much smoother.


Is the ASV lever a new addition? Did you run the bike with the ASV lever before you replaced your clutch? Or did you add the ASV lever at the same time as the new clutch? If so, then you probably need a barrel extender (ASV sells them). I had this problem when I replaced my clutch lever with an ASV - not enough adjustability. Called ASV and they sent me a barrel extender. A quick way to check if this is indeed your problem is to replace the ASV setup with the stock one and see if you are back in the normal range of adjustability.

  • BASSic

Posted March 26, 2008 - 08:02 AM

#13

The ASV levers have been on the bike when I bought it (used) and the adjusters were all the way out. I thought my cable was stretched so I replaced it, but the brand new cable was the same.

A barrel extender is exactly what I would need. Thanks for the info.


With an '01 you might see that the clutch basket is "grooved" from the plate tabs.

This will prevent the plates from pulling apart completely and you'll get the drag you mentioned (engaging even when fully pulled in)

Check both the hub and the basket before you install your new plates.


I did check that, and it was OK. The new clutch fixed it, or maybe it was switching oil? Either way, I'm very happy with the clutch feel. I just want that barrel extender so I can have some more room to adjust if necessary.





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