Adding Stator for Lights--wiring clues?


13 replies to this topic
  • oceanjake

Posted March 13, 2008 - 10:11 PM

#1

I picked up my stator and flywheel from a WR426 today and I plan to put them on my YZ426. The wires and plug coming out of the stator though don't make a lot of sense to me. Does anyone have any idea which is which?

Also, this is AC current coming out of the stator. I'm told that since I'm not running a battery I can just use a VR to limit the power so I don't blow bulbs and that I don't have to worry about it being AC power. My question is this: in an AC current system, what do the two wires on the bulb connect to? One goes to the hot lead. Does the other ground? Is there another hot lead? Pardon my ignorance but I'm not an AC guy. Thanks for the help.

  • Birdy426

Posted March 14, 2008 - 01:26 AM

#2

If memory serves me correctly (though it rarely does these days...) there are two connectors coming off the magneto. One with 6 wires of various colors and one with only 2. The one with 6 wires goes to the CDI box on the right side of the stearing head. The other connector should have only 2 wires...a yellow and a black one. This connector goes to the Voltage regulator, and is AC power. Yes, if you aren't running a battery, you can run pure AC as the WR400s and 426's do. The light will dim a bit at idle, but no biggie. You need a WR voltage regulator. If you have the stock harness, the yellow wire should branch off to a bullet connector and to the 2 pin connector for the v/r. This branch goes to one side of your head light. The black wire should branch off to a ring connector. This goes to ground (chassis). Run the yellow wire to a switch, and the other side of the switch to one terminal on your headlight. The other termnal onthe headlight goes to ground as you suspect. If that's not clear, you can download a WR shop manual from one of the stickies on the WR forum, and it has a wiring diagram...

  • Speedracer747-400

Posted March 14, 2008 - 06:03 AM

#3

WR wiring diagram sounds like your best bet. I'm shopping around for parts to add lights to my YZ426F as well. Here's a few things I found that might be useful.

Technical Article: AC Lighting Configuration
http://www.electrosp...nfiguration.php

Voltage Regulator
http://www.mooseraci...t_group_id=5488

K&S Technologies 12-0051 (off/on) (Yamaha OEM Equivalent - 5NG-83976-50)
http://www.kandstech...es/12-0051.html

K&S Technologies 12-0050 (off/low/hi & engine kill)
http://www.kandstech...es/12-0050.html

  • Speedracer747-400

Posted March 14, 2008 - 06:38 AM

#4

Posted Image

1- Headlight
2- "ENGINE STOP" button
3- Regulator
4- TPS
5- Tail light
6- CDI magneto
7- Neutral switch
8- Ignition coil
9- Spark plug
10- Lights switch
11- CDI unit

B- Black
Br- Brown
G- Green
Gy- Gray
L- Blue
O- Orange
P- Pink
R- Red
Sb- Sky Blue
W- White
Y- Yellow
B/L- Black/Blue
B/W- Black/White
L/W- Blue/White
R/W- Red/White

  • grayracer513

Posted March 14, 2008 - 07:55 AM

#5

Get the rest of the WR manual here. It may be useful:

http://www.yamaha-mo...ice/manuals.jsp

  • swatdoc

Posted March 14, 2008 - 08:36 PM

#6

I am running AC only power for my head and tail lights on my YZ450F. Here is a nice, simple wiring diagram I made which should be just what you need.

Posted Image

  • oceanjake

Posted March 14, 2008 - 09:56 PM

#7

Thanks for the replies guys. Useful stuff! I am wondering if I actually got the right stator now. The one I have only has the one plug coming off of it, but it does have the yellow wire coming off to a bullet connector. The voltage regulator I have off the same year WR has a different plug with just a yellow and black wire...both of which are heavier gauge than any of the wires on my stator, including the yellow one.

This is trickier than I thought. Once I get the bike putting out power though, wiring the lights will be a snap. I guess I'm still a little stuck

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  • swatdoc

Posted March 15, 2008 - 02:46 AM

#8

I'm guessing you're OK if it has the one extra yellow wire. Instead of a black ground wire coming off with the yellow wire, it most likely just has you connect the lights to the chassis for the ground. The chassis is always a ground anyway, even with the stock stator, the extra black wire really is redundant. Just look at the schematic from Speedracer, and you'll see the wires coming off the stator already include a black wire which is grounded.

  • Speedracer747-400

Posted March 15, 2008 - 11:04 AM

#9

The yellow wire coming off the stator with the bullet connector and the plug coming off the voltage regulator won't fit anything on your bike because you don't have a WR wiring harness. You can just cut these off and hardwire everything or use your own connectors. I found some really nice Weather Pack connectors that should work nicely. They might be a little overkill for use on a dirtbike, but there much better than the ones I found at Radio Shack. You can get them with either 20-18, 16-14, or 12 gauge sets of terminals and seals. You can buy Weather Pack connectors at NAPA Auto or I also found them on Ebay.

http://www.weatherpack.com/

http://stores.ebay.c...rays-speed-shop

  • grayracer513

Posted March 15, 2008 - 02:52 PM

#10

Weather Pack connectors are definitely not overkill. Another walk-in source for them should be the parts department at any GM dealer. They are carried as standard hardware and repair items in several configurations.

  • oceanjake

Posted March 15, 2008 - 10:40 PM

#11

Great...thanks again everyone. I'm pretty close to having enough info to dig in and give this a try. Two more questions for those that may know:

1) in another post I read about the wiring of the voltage regulator. It said to run the yellow lead from the stator to the lights direct but "T" off the hot lead on the VR. It said to ground the black wire on the VR to the frame. Is this how it works? Does the VR just bleed the extra voltage off as heat through the heatsinks?

2) What is the pink wire mod that the other post says i need to do? Is this just to convert the stator to DC if I'm running a battery? Since I'm not running a battery can I just skip the pink wire mod altogether? A link to the post I'm referring to is located here: http://www.thumperta...p/t-331675.html

Thanks again!

  • grayracer513

Posted March 15, 2008 - 11:32 PM

#12

1) Most simple voltage regulators are zener diodes, which simply dump excess voltage to ground.

2) Unsure about any pink wires, but the only way to convert out put from an AC stator to DC is through the use of a rectifier.

  • Speedracer747-400

Posted March 16, 2008 - 01:54 AM

#13

Great...thanks again everyone. I'm pretty close to having enough info to dig in and give this a try. Two more questions for those that may know:

1) in another post I read about the wiring of the voltage regulator. It said to run the yellow lead from the stator to the lights direct but "T" off the hot lead on the VR. It said to ground the black wire on the VR to the frame. Is this how it works? Does the VR just bleed the extra voltage off as heat through the heatsinks?

2) What is the pink wire mod that the other post says i need to do? Is this just to convert the stator to DC if I'm running a battery? Since I'm not running a battery can I just skip the pink wire mod altogether? A link to the post I'm referring to is located here: http://www.thumperta...p/t-331675.html

Thanks again!


The voltage regulator gets connected in parallel. The black wire needs to go to chassis ground and the yellow wire gets T'ed off to the hot yellow wire coming off the stator and the hot side of the headlight switch.

The pink wire mod is needed to make the WR stator compatible with the YZ CDI. You will need to cut the pink wire between the stator and 6-pin CDI connector. Cap off or tape up the end going to the stator. The end going to the 6-pin CDI connector needs to be connected to chassis ground. A good place to use is the frame tab where the ignition coil gets grounded. ElectroSport wrote some modification instructions that floated the ground on the WR stator to be able to use a regulator/rectifier in case you choose to run a battery and needed DC. Since your not running a battery and keeping your system all AC you don't need to float the ground on the WR stator. Just do the pink wire mod. Some people have also used a WR CDI along with the WR stator on there YZ's. In this case the pink wire mod doesn't need to be done.

  • swatdoc

Posted March 16, 2008 - 12:39 PM

#14

Jake - look at the diagram I posted again - shows very clearly how to wire in the voltage regulator. It's wired in parallel, just like speed says.





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