Question for a co-worker...Xr650L


9 replies to this topic
  • Whyzee429

Posted March 13, 2008 - 08:08 PM

#1

I've never been in this peticular forum. Forgive me, but I spend most my time in the YZ450f one. HOWEVER, a co-worker of mine has a 07 xr650l (stock) and had a question....but is not at all computer savy. SO...he saw the same bike as his on the road where the engine area was "cleaned" up. He said it was more open and that the smog stuff was taken off. He wanted to know if it easy to do, if it adds more power, and most importantly if it's legal here in CA. What are some of the other pros and cons to doing a mod like this? Thanks for your patience with me.
Shawn

  • martinfan30

Posted March 13, 2008 - 08:37 PM

#2

I've never been in this peticular forum. Forgive me, but I spend most my time in the YZ450f one. HOWEVER, a co-worker of mine has a 07 xr650l (stock) and had a question....but is not at all computer savy. SO...he saw the same bike as his on the road where the engine area was "cleaned" up. He said it was more open and that the smog stuff was taken off. He wanted to know if it easy to do, if it adds more power, and most importantly if it's legal here in CA. What are some of the other pros and cons to doing a mod like this? Thanks for your patience with me.
Shawn


The smog removal is very easy. Just cleans up the looks of the engine, saves some weight. The real need is to do "Daves Mods" to the carb. Basically rejetting with richer jets, shimming up the needle, drilling the vacuum ports in the slide to 5/32" ,grinding the tab off the float bowl for more fuel screw adjustment, removing the snorkel, adding a foam UNI or similar filter, putting on a good flowing exhaust, etc. I have some links if you want. PM and I will set em up for you.

Legally, its not supposed to be modded, but ask any of the cali. XRL owners who has left their bike stock.

These mods combined with regearing to 14/48 or 15/48 make a whole new machine out of the pig.

  • Motosprtman

Posted March 14, 2008 - 05:20 AM

#3

should probably mention that if he wants to get the smog stuff off that IMS makes a kit for it - complete with instructions. The Carb mods are:

"Here's what's become my standard 'canned' reply.
Its pretty simple, but I have to admit drilling the slide is a little nerve-wracking. Also, doing the smog block-off will stop the popping, but will not really increase the power.


THE DRILLING:
There's a photo here somewhere of the slide, gallery? tech section?
You drill the holes indicated to 5/32 of an inch. There are 3 holes, one in the middle for the needle and 2 off to the side- drill the 2 not in the center.

THE NEEDLE: When you pull the slide, the needle is held into the bottom of the slide by a little yellow widget that you press down on and turn a little with a screwdriver or an 8mm socket. When you remove that, the needle comes right out. Notice that the needle sits in a small recessed section, a little well. Find a small washer that meets the following
conditions:
1) is about 20-30 thousands of an inch thick.
2) fits fairly snugly over the needle at the thickest part at the top.
3) has the same outside diameter as the top of the needle.
You just put the needle through the washer like you would a washer on a bolt so that the needle will be raised up out of the slide by the thickness of the washer. Some have found washers like this in a kit at radio shack. I found one that I had to make a little smaller on the outside diameter in my "supplies".

If you do this, remove the snorkel, and grind off the tab on the bowl that keeps you from spinning the low-speed mixture screw around, and put in a good air filter, you'll wonder how you managed to ride the bike without these mods. If the mixture screw is out more than 2-3/4 turns, you need to go up on the pilot jet.

The suggestion to replace the screws on the carb with allen heads is an excellent one as well. I replaced the 4 bowl screws, the 4 screws in the top, and the 2 that hold on the throttle cover.

The slide gets raised when vacuum is applied at the bottom of the slide, and the holes are how the air leaves the area above the slide. Hence, the bigger the holes the more faster the air can leave.

I'm running stock exhaust, K&N filter, and run a 55 pilot and 158 main (both keihin jets from Baja Designs), and this setup is rich enough to run with the baffle out. Note that there is a 55S short pilot jet, and the 55 regular pilot jet will work but you have to trim the slosh baffle in the bowl a little, as it can move a little and partially cover the pilot jet.

-Dave


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
'01XR650L - keihin 158 main jet, 55 'long' pilot jet, screw out 2.5 turns, stock needle shimmed 0.035", slide holes drilled to 5/32, dynojet shorter CV spring installed, K&N filter, snorkel removed, stock exhaust, air pump removed, thermometer dipstick, MT21 90/90 front, huge mutant teraflex rear, 13-48 spkts. Central NY near Cortland
Articles: XR650L Carb Mods, DIY Dual Sport/Supermoto Helmet, XR650L Simplified Schematic for Safeties "

and can be found at:

http://www.4strokes....&TOPIC_ID=11416

  • Whyzee429

Posted March 14, 2008 - 09:42 PM

#4

thanks for everyone's generosity! Seriously, you've all been a huge help so far. The XR650 forum is one of the nicest I've visited!

  • Purcell69

Posted March 15, 2008 - 02:44 AM

#5

I've made many of the suggested modifications found here. Instead of the Dave's Mods method, I opted to spend the money for the Dynojet kit. The end result is the same. While I had the head pipe removed for de-smogging, I ground the welds inside the head pipe where it meets the exhaust flange, not completely smooth, but almost. I read elsewhere in this forum, it is desirable to have a slight ridge, (about 1 mm if I remember) to aid in the exhaust flow.

With the DJ kit, air box mod, exhaust mod, Uni filter and no smog pump the bike is really alive and looks a lot cleaner. I have not changed gearing yet or replaced the stock muffler with the White Brothers E2, but those are coming. Later on I'll probably add the Hot Cam.

-Joe

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  • F2504X4PS

Posted March 15, 2008 - 03:38 AM

#6

I recently bought a bone stock 1998 XR650L and just finished all Dave's mods including a header and a yosh pipe, it's a different machine now, the mods are easy to do and costs almost nothing (except exhaust system) if you like your bike now you will love it when the mods are complete. my $.02 advice is wait until you get your exhaust upgrade in hand to do the mods, that way you will have a complete package when you finish Dave's mods. :confused:

Any questions you have about the mods can be answered in this forum, I asked a bunch of them and the guy's on this forum are awesome!

  • martinfan30

Posted March 15, 2008 - 12:12 PM

#7

I've made many of the suggested modifications found here. Instead of the Dave's Mods method, I opted to spend the money for the Dynojet kit. The end result is the same. While I had the head pipe removed for de-smogging, I ground the welds inside the head pipe where it meets the exhaust flange, not completely smooth, but almost. I read elsewhere in this forum, it is desirable to have a slight ridge, (about 1 mm if I remember) to aid in the exhaust flow.

With the DJ kit, air box mod, exhaust mod, Uni filter and no smog pump the bike is really alive and looks a lot cleaner. I have not changed gearing yet or replaced the stock muffler with the White Brothers E2, but those are coming. Later on I'll probably add the Hot Cam.

-Joe



Amazing how fat those welds were, huh? You will be MORE than happy with a hotcam. Mine rips! Dont even worry about starting. I even put in a CRF450X battery, smaller, lighter and even has 10 more CCA's! Cranks faster with it than the stock battery. I say all this because the hotcam doesnt retain the auto-decompressor.

  • Purcell69

Posted March 15, 2008 - 06:07 PM

#8

Amazing how fat those welds were, huh? You will be MORE than happy with a hotcam. Mine rips! Dont even worry about starting. I even put in a CRF450X battery, smaller, lighter and even has 110 more CCA's! Cranks faster with it than the stock battery. I say all this because the hotcam doesnt retain the auto-decompressor.


Martinfan, I've been following your Mod progress for ideas on what I want to do with mine. Yeah, those welds were UGLY! I spent an hour with the Dremmel and a stone to get it cleaned up. At the same time, I installed the DJ kit and did the air box mod, so I can't really tell which was the most effective, but the end result was a VERY noticable improvement in bottom and mid-range power, and a bigger smile on my face!

I got this XRL new in December to replace may aging DR350SE. I had modded the DR with air box, DJ kit and an FMF Q. When I got the XRL, the base power (the seat of the pants feeling) wasn't much different. The ride was better, but for the extra cc's, I was a little disappointed. Not so, anymore. I never regretted the change back to Honda, but I expected a little more from the stock XRL. The mods so far have made the XRL meet my expectations.

-Joe

  • martinfan30

Posted March 15, 2008 - 07:06 PM

#9

Martinfan, I've been following your Mod progress for ideas on what I want to do with mine. Yeah, those welds were UGLY! I spent an hour with the Dremmel and a stone to get it cleaned up. At the same time, I installed the DJ kit and did the air box mod, so I can't really tell which was the most effective, but the end result was a VERY noticable improvement in bottom and mid-range power, and a bigger smile on my face!

I got this XRL new in December to replace may aging DR350SE. I had modded the DR with air box, DJ kit and an FMF Q. When I got the XRL, the base power (the seat of the pants feeling) wasn't much different. The ride was better, but for the extra cc's, I was a little disappointed. Not so, anymore. I never regretted the change back to Honda, but I expected a little more from the stock XRL. The mods so far have made the XRL meet my expectations.

-Joe


Make sure to rejet the pilot circuit. The DJET kit doesnt come with a replacement jet for the pilot. Typically a 55 pilot is good at or near sea level. On up to 3500 ft. 2 1/2 turns out on the fuel screw.

Glad you have noticed a power increase! A big single definately has a smile factor when it is a llowed to breath!!:confused:

  • Purcell69

Posted March 16, 2008 - 03:02 AM

#10

Make sure to rejet the pilot circuit. The DJET kit doesnt come with a replacement jet for the pilot. Typically a 55 pilot is good at or near sea level. On up to 3500 ft. 2 1/2 turns out on the fuel screw.

Glad you have noticed a power increase! A big single definately has a smile factor when it is a llowed to breath!!:confused:


The kit I installed did not have the pilot jet, as you stated. As a precaution, I left the stock Honda paper filter installed while I waited for the pilot jet to arrive. I did order a 55, as I know with the Uni and eventually the E2, I would be a little lean on the idle side of things. So far I have the mixture screw adjusted about 2 1/4 turns out and it seems pretty happy. I started at 2 1/2 like suggested with the kit instructions and went back a bit to get the idle back. As it sits now, it runs great. I took it to McAlister and back, about a 200 mile round-trip, last week while the weather was nice. To date, I have just over 1,400 miles on this bike, and it just keeps getting better.

-Joe





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