wheelie trouble -clutch adjustment?


34 replies to this topic
  • fitpays

Posted March 13, 2008 - 10:07 AM

#1

ok, so i am new with this bike and forum, but not new to bikes at all. however, with this XR650L, i am puzzled and don't want to put more into it than necessary.

that being said, my bike runs great, but it doesn't wheelie worth a damn. i can ride one for about a mile on my R1, and do stand-ups, so i'm no stranger to the balance point and how to get there. i don't want to beat the shit out of this thing trying to get it up. it runs great, even on the pavement. i am not feeling clutch slip, but i am really not used to the bike so it might be slipping a little. sorry if i am jumping around a lot. try to hang in there.

so yesterday, despite not having a lot of play in the lever, i tightened the adjustment up and sure enough, it pulls up a little shifting into second gear now. i only had a tiny bit of adjustment left in the lever and then it ran out. so my question is this -do you guys think i can run the adjuster back in and adjust it at the engine and then fine tune it up top with the lever adjuster? my concern is that there is very little play in the lever as it is. however, i don't want to buy a new clutch if the cable is just stretched out.

any input would be greatly appreciated. also, any tips for adjusting it at the engine would be cool too. i am at work killing time and i'm not going to mess with the bike until this evening. i have not even looked at the cable down at the engine yet. also, i did a search on this and came up with relatively little so take it easy on me please.

  • fitpays

Posted March 13, 2008 - 10:07 AM

#2

also, the bike has 9k on it, but i am unsure as to when the last time the clutch was done.

  • martinfan30

Posted March 13, 2008 - 11:06 AM

#3

How much play is very litte?

  • fitpays

Posted March 13, 2008 - 11:16 AM

#4

it feels like the lever is spot-on. i read on here that a rule of thumb is that you should be able to fit a nickel between the handle and perch. i would say it is right there in terms of adjustment. i'm going to take a look at it and see if i can reel a little in at the bottom. i know it will end up actuating the clutch if i over tighten it. i will try to tighten it up a little and worst case scenario i will have to buy a clutch kit. not sure if i am going to put it in myself or not. the shop only wants $140 for the install. i can buy the kit on ebay for like 70 plus s/h.

  • Denn10

Posted March 13, 2008 - 11:53 AM

#5

yes you should have a little free play in the lever, if not you are gonna burn up the clutch, play in the lever isnt whats stopping you from pulling wheelies, an option if you wanna have more "FUN" on it, to get wheelies you will prolly need to change the gearing if you havent already. The stock 15/45 is way more geared for top end driving, a popular setup is 14/48 and that will help alot and if you have to take a road trip just throw the 15 front back on cuz there not hard to change and youll have a better setup for highway/freeway.

BTW Welcome to TT!!

  • martinfan30

Posted March 13, 2008 - 12:09 PM

#6

Plus one on lower gearing. Makes all the difference if you are stock.

  • chakaxr650l

Posted March 13, 2008 - 12:53 PM

#7

I have the stock gearing; uncorked and corked I can get the wheel up in first, but it takes a nice pop of the clutch and a handful of throttle.

  • Towlieee

Posted March 13, 2008 - 12:57 PM

#8

The reason you can ride them on your R1, is because your doing power wheelies..

On a dirt bike, you have less available speed, and less available power, so you must rely more on balance and brake control, instead of a hand full of throttle to keep it up.

You should be able to just adjust your play out at the clutch arm, and the lever, and get it fine no problem.

i"ve never heard of a clutch wearing out, or a cable stretching enough to not let your clutch fully engauge..

BTW also if your bike isn't slipping under normal acceleraton, then it wont slip mid wheelie..




a 650 should wheelie fine stock, in probably every gear..
NO need to re-gear.. Gearing doesn't create skill! :thumbsup:
I can pull up wheelies in ANY gaer on my 150f, and my friends 100f... Although it is VERY hard in 4th and 5th on them bikes

anything in 1-3rd though should come right up with a hand full of the trottle and slipping the clutch

  • martinfan30

Posted March 13, 2008 - 01:06 PM

#9

a 650 should wheelie fine stock, in probably every gear..
NO need to re-gear.. Gearing doesn't create skill! :thumbsup:
I can pull up wheelies in ANY gaer on my 150f, and my friends 100f... Although it is VERY hard in 4th and 5th on them bikes

anything in 1-3rd though should come right up with a hand full of the trottle and slipping the clutch[/QUOTE]

That is pretty much untrue concerning the XR650L. Regearing is absolutely necessary on this bike. It is waaaay over tall stock. Useless off road stock. 15/48 and 14/48 are perfect for this bike. Still can cruise comfy at 65-70 on the highway and good offroad.

Comparing the 650L's ungainly weight stock to a light 150 or 100f is ridiculous.

As far as wheelies, I can power wheelie my L in first and second only with a hotcam, fcr 41, exhaust and intake mods. Not to mention I live at 4300 ft. and geared 15/48....

  • Towlieee

Posted March 13, 2008 - 01:12 PM

#10

[quote name='martinfan30']a 650 should wheelie fine stock, in probably every gear..
NO need to re-gear.. Gearing doesn't create skill! :thumbsup:
I can pull up wheelies in ANY gaer on my 150f, and my friends 100f... Although it is VERY hard in 4th and 5th on them bikes

anything in 1-3rd though should come right up with a hand full of the trottle and slipping the clutch[/QUOTE]

That is pretty much untrue concerning the XR650L. Regearing is absolutely necessary on this bike. It is waaaay over tall stock. Useless off road stock. 15/48 and 14/48 are perfect for this bike. Still can cruise comfy at 65-70 on the highway and good offroad.

Comparing the 650L's ungainly weight stock to a light 150 or 100f is ridiculous.

As far as wheelies, I can power wheelie my L in first and second only with a hotcam, fcr 41, exhaust and intake mods. Not to mention I live at 4300 ft. and geared 15/48....[/QUOTE]


Thats because you don't posses skills enough to wheelie a stock one.

Trust me, without riding one, I can guarantee they will wheelie fine stock.


NOw circles and stuff, MIGHT be hard on stock gearing, but is probably still dooable.




Put it this way. Rev it to red line, slip clutch, you don't think its gonna come up? I bet it would come up in 2nd or 3rd.. 2nd for sure, 3rd maybe..

I know its not the same as a 150f.. but cmon, I can get a 150f up in 5th on a bone stock bike!


It's all in practice and skill.. Any bike can wheelie, just with practice.



edit: btw the 650L weighs about 115 more pounds then my 150f.. Also probably has over 3 times the power..
I've wheelieed my 150f with my friend sitting on the handlebars with his feet over them... and he weighs in at 180pounds...




edit: nevermind, you said power wheelie..
I'm sure it would take gearing, or upgrades to power wheelie in 2nd and stuff..

but the clutch will bring it right up in stock form in 1-3rd im sure.. 1 and 2nd for SURE, 3rd-5 MAAAYBE

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  • Horri

Posted March 13, 2008 - 01:20 PM

#11

Jeepers..Its a 4 stroke..Roar down the road throw it into whatever gear pull the clutch in while revving the turd out of it...Drop the clutch..We used to wheelie xl250's in the late 70's early 80's in any gear using that method.It's more about timing than power.Nothings changed...LoL..Skills argument.

  • martinfan30

Posted March 13, 2008 - 01:22 PM

#12

I dont posses skill to do this??? Thats pretty ignorant on your part. You'd be an idiot to think you cant slip the clutch with throttle on a 650l and lift the front end. 2nd CAN be done on a stock L with a lot of finnese AT 4300FT... Third, no way. Ive been riding this pig for 3 yrs now, you dont think I have tried all this??

BTW, the highest point in THAT state is 1772 ft. That makes a huge difference in power. Bring a stock L up here AND TRY IT...

Think twice before attacking someones skills.

  • Towlieee

Posted March 13, 2008 - 03:22 PM

#13

I dont posses skill to do this??? Thats pretty ignorant on your part. You'd be an idiot to think you cant slip the clutch with throttle on a 650l and lift the front end. 2nd CAN be done on a stock L with a lot of finnese AT 4300FT... Third, no way. Ive been riding this pig for 3 yrs now, you dont think I have tried all this??

BTW, the highest point in THAT state is 1772 ft. That makes a huge difference in power. Bring a stock L up here AND TRY IT...

Think twice before attacking someones skills.




Think twice before attacking someones skills?

Did you say you need mods to wheelie it or not?

Ever since I've learned to do a good balance point wheelie, I have been able to wheelie every bike I've rode at balance point..
From under powered over weight pigs like the ninja 250, or tandem on a 150f... Up to 180horse power sport bikes..

If it wont wheelie, its not the bike, its the rider!


edit: It doesn't matter how long you have been riding.. If you don't sit and work on wheelies specifically, and advance, then it doesn't matter..

I know people that have rode 5+ years, and can't get their wheel more then 2 foot off the ground..
And I know people that have rode 6 months, and can do circle wheelies

  • cleonard

Posted March 13, 2008 - 03:50 PM

#14

I've been riding 20 years and I don't wheelie. I've seen people who are good at it wheelie almost any bike. It really is a learned skill. One that I don't really care to learn. However, I am really good about lofting my front wheel over trail obstacles. It's one reason that I like my XR so much. It has enough grunt to lift or at least unweight the front wheel no matter how low the revs are.


Anyway back to the original poster. Get a 14 tooth countershaft sprocket. They help a lot in the dirt. The only reason not to is that you only ride pavement. In my experience clutches usually go pretty quick once they start slipping.

The engine could also be down on power. 9k doesn't seem like enough miles for the rings to be worn out or a leaky valve, but who knows. I've had both of those and until it got really bad the only indication was low power.

Have you done the Dave's mods? In second all it should take is leaning way back and waxing it. That and some good traction. It is a heavy beast afterall.

The bike should wheelie pretty easily.

  • martinfan30

Posted March 13, 2008 - 04:10 PM

#15

Think twice before attacking someones skills?

Did you say you need mods to wheelie it or not?

Ever since I've learned to do a good balance point wheelie, I have been able to wheelie every bike I've rode at balance point..
From under powered over weight pigs like the ninja 250, or tandem on a 150f... Up to 180horse power sport bikes..

If it wont wheelie, its not the bike, its the rider!


edit: It doesn't matter how long you have been riding.. If you don't sit and work on wheelies specifically, and advance, then it doesn't matter..

I know people that have rode 5+ years, and can't get their wheel more then 2 foot off the ground..
And I know people that have rode 6 months, and can do circle wheelies


OK, listen...

I did not start this whole BS back and forth thing by saying the bike cant be wheelied by having good balance. Only talking about using the throttle only, JUST POWER to get the front up. There has been some misunderstanding here.

  • Kenzo

Posted March 13, 2008 - 05:54 PM

#16

...where's the squid smiley???

:thumbsup:

...or troll...

  • fitpays

Posted March 13, 2008 - 07:08 PM

#17

i guess i should have specified that i wanted to wheelie without beating the shit out of this thing. oh, that's right, i did. i am well aware of the ability to clutch it up in damn near any gear. i was under the impression that these things were wheelie mongers. evidently not. i am used to rolling it up with the throttle to the balance point and then sitting in the pocket until the road turns too sharp or i run up on traffic. thanks for the info martinfan30.

bad news is, this fat pig doesn't wheelie like i thought it would. good news is, a countershaft sprocket is a hell of a lot cheaper than a clutch job. here is a good question though -what is up with these tire locks? i'm 6' tall and weigh 220. think i will need the tire locks to keep from snapping the valve stems on the pavement???

  • crf150f guy

Posted March 13, 2008 - 07:20 PM

#18

Yah this bike is really heavy. the 150f is easy to wheelie but I need more practice on it. I can get it up easily in 1st or 2nd but keeping it up is the hard part for me.

  • martinfan30

Posted March 13, 2008 - 07:22 PM

#19

i guess i should have specified that i wanted to wheelie without beating the shit out of this thing. oh, that's right, i did. i am well aware of the ability to clutch it up in damn near any gear. i was under the impression that these things were wheelie mongers. evidently not. i am used to rolling it up with the throttle to the balance point and then sitting in the pocket until the road turns too sharp or i run up on traffic. thanks for the info martinfan30.

bad news is, this fat pig doesn't wheelie like i thought it would. good news is, a countershaft sprocket is a hell of a lot cheaper than a clutch job. here is a good question though -what is up with these tire locks? i'm 6' tall and weigh 220. think i will need the tire locks to keep from snapping the valve stems on the pavement???


I've ridden my L on the road for 70 percent of its life. No locks, yet. Even with a cam and all the other mods... I'm 6'5" and 230. Even ripping the front off the ground under power many times, have never spun a tube. I will be putting in locks with the new MT21's in the garage. Just because of the upcoming dez. ride. No idea why they didnt come with them either.:eek:

Just get yourself a 14 tooth counter sprocket, maybe even a 48 rear to play around with. 14/45 is pretty close to my current 15/48. It was a big change in low end power to the ground. This way you wont have to be doing a clutch every 2500 miles. No sense in beating your ride when you can compensate with lower gearing!:thumbsup:

  • fitpays

Posted March 13, 2008 - 07:29 PM

#20

i'll probably start with the 14t front and see how it goes. if i'm not happy with it by then, i'll go to the 48 or 50 rear as well. it is all about loot at this point. i'm trying to avoid putting a lot of money in it. i bought it from a friend for only a thousand bucks. luckily, it is pretty sound. i really want to switch it over to red plastics and tank. otherwise, i'm gonna rock with my....... well -you know the rest. budget rides rock. any suggestions on where to get a rear sprocket cheap? i can just get the front from the dealer. what would i look for in a rear sprocket on ebay? i looked under xr650l. not much luck. is there a general size for the bolt pattern etc? how about a crf sprocket?





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