Anyone use a Rekluse clutch ? I was thinking about getting one ?

Thanks,

Robert

Yep, got them on both bikes.  Liked them so much that we upgraded to the 'Pro' version for this year.  

I've had one for over a year now.  I really like it in the rough, I can just hang on without having to worry about the clutch.  Don't really care for it on the street (on my dual sport).  Definitely worth getting in my opinion.  Make sure you get the perch adjuster, it's expensive but worth having.  Hope this helps.

KevinMTB said:

If you are gonna spend the dough on a perch adjuster, which doesnt work very well by the way, why not just get the Pro, which does work very well? I have had both....I couldnt get rid of the PA soon enough and went back to the external adjuster and hand brake....now there is a sweet set up.

You will either love it or hate it.  
I tried two different make auto clutches.  Couldn't take them off fast enough.  
Dwight

Hey guys im looking to get eduacated here, what exaclty does the Rekluse do? Do you still have pull the clutch to shift? Is it like a slipper clutch?

Thanks

NO_FEAR said:

It will be like shifting clutchless when moving so it will be a bit harder on the transmission.
IMO,
Dwight

Dwight_Rudder said:

I have been wondering about that for a long time now.  The Rekluse/Revloc isn't going to fully disengage when you shift so it seems like it must be harder on your tranny.  Has anyone heard of people running a Rekluse having transmission problems?

KevinMTB said:

I would also recommend getting Rekluse z-Start Pro version over the regular z-Start. This way there is no need to buy the extra perch adjuster separately to retain clutch use. The Pro let's you retain the cluch lever and has better clutch feel. After you install the Pro and do the post install adjustment check it should stay in adjustment for the life of the clutch pack. The Pro also lets you choose either a soft or hard engagement rate by running either 24 or 27 ball bearings. With the regular z-Start you need to buy tungsten balls separately to change the engagement rate. With the Pro the engagement rpm can be changed between low, medium, and high depending on which springs you run.

NO_FEAR said:

The Rekluse is an auto clutch that uses centrifugal force to move ball bearings between a pressure plate with ball ramps. It will engage and disengaged the clutch depending on engine rpm. You will basically get perfect clutch feathering automatically.

The Rekluse z-Start doesn't retain the use of the clutch lever unless you buy the seperate perch adjuster. The Rekluse z-Start Pro retains the use of the clutch lever. It's best to still use the clutch lever when shifting. You can shift without using the clutch, but use common sense and don't shift if the engine is under high load and high rpm's.

A slipper clutch is different than an auto clutch. A slipper clutch disengages when it senses the effects of engine braking. There used for road racing on street and supermoto bikes. They keep the rear wheel from loosing traction when downshifting before entering a corner.

Nigel Tufnel said:

The Rekluse z-Start w/perch adjuster will allow you to fully disengage the clutch at low-mid engine rpm's. The Rekluse z-start Pro will allow full disengagement at all rpm's. I have not heard of anyone having transmission problems from using a Rekluse. It is possible that if someone was using the original z-Start without the perch adjuster and abused the bike by shifting during high load high rpm conditions that they could cause transmission damage, but again use common sense.

Nigel Tufnel said:

Its not harder on the tranny.  Just blip the throttle and shift.  

642MX said:

Are you absolutely sure ?  

Dwight_Rudder said:

Yes, I'm absolutely sure.  

In 20+ years of riding and racing, I've never used the clutch to up shift or down shift and I've never torn up a tranny.  Auto clutch or not, as long you unload the tranny (blipping the throttle) you can shift it without fear of tearing up the tranny.  

Now, if your cramming the shifter at wide open throttle, then your asking for problems.

The only way I see the Rekluse or any other brand auto-clutch, doing any damage at all would be riding in too high of a gear for too long. The auto-clutch would not engage completely & slip until the clutches over heat & burn. If you ride in the correct gear, blip the throttle when shifting, maintain the auto-clutch as directed & change your oil regularly I could not see where the auto-clutch would cause damage. Although I'm new to my auto-clutch my riding friends have had them for the past 3-4 years. I bought one of my friends bike that had the Rekluse in it already & I will not have a woods bike without one. Dwight, maybe you should try one, I know some of your competition at Clanton had them & finished well.

I ride and race A class offroad in everything from super tight muddy, rocky, tree-rooted singletrack to wide open GP style courses that require constant 1st through 5th gear full power acceleration/deceleration and in the nine months that I have been using my Z-start Pro I have yet to find a weakness with it and I abuse the hell out of it.

When I had a normal clutch I never used it for shifting unless I was power shifting under hard acceleration.  With the Rekluse I still tap the clutch lever when power shifting but that's it as far as shifting is concerned.  I feather the clutch manually when coming out of corners, hill climbing, etc...but I don't have to.

The Rekluse does not change your bike to automatic transmission...you still need to be in the right gear for the situation but it will take care of the clutching work in the tight gnarly stuff so you can concentrate on the trail.

Sweet thanks for the input guys !! My buddy just installed a pro but has yet to try it out in a race. I did ride his bike around and caught myself trying to get it to stall it did not ofcourse....... which is good for us guys that stall the bike at the most inopportune times.

Thanks again,

Robert

BadMotoWeazal said:

I did try one.  Actually I tried two.  Couldn't take them off my bike fast enough.
My problem in Clanton was that I missed 2 turns both times when I was in the lead and I  thought I had 10PSI in rear tire and actually had 14psi.  I was slipping and sliding everywhere and I couldn't understand why until after the race.  I usually do very well in Clanton. My bike ran very good and my suspension worked well.  When I missed the turns I went from 1st to 4th. On last lap I got hung up in 2 bottlenecks too.  I didn't get stuck but had to wait for a path to open up.
DR

Love mine. I need to get one for my other bike now. I am too much of a tool to ride with manual clutch any more. I  was riding full throttle in to a turn slammed on the brakes without pulling in the clutch and did a 360:eek: last weekend. Now my dilemna is Pro or standard? Oh and where to get the $500 or $600 bucks to buy one:cry:

I have one and love it ,z start

I love mine. The biggest benifit for me is when I am dead tired and running into gnarly stuff. I know it's saved me from stalling 100 times over. When I'm fresh or when the trail is anything less than a boulder garden I think I would be fine with a standard clutch still.

Sand Dunes???  Glamis???  big dunes???   Running a paddle the engine is ALWAYS under load.  Is my clutch going to be slipping the entire time?  This is the only thing that is keeping me from getting one.  I'm a "b" level scramble racer but I hit up the dunes about 3-5 times a year on average.  Don't want to be smoking a clutch every dune trip and am not willing to quit riding the dunes.  LOL