Posted 10 March 2008 - 05:54 PM
Posted 10 March 2008 - 07:30 PM
Posted 10 March 2008 - 09:39 PM
Posted 10 March 2008 - 10:01 PM
Posted 10 March 2008 - 10:43 PM
I tried two different make auto clutches. Couldn't take them off fast enough.
Posted 11 March 2008 - 06:59 AM
It will be like shifting clutchless when moving so it will be a bit harder on the transmission.
Posted 11 March 2008 - 07:20 AM
I have been wondering about that for a long time now. The Rekluse/Revloc isn't going to fully disengage when you shift so it seems like it must be harder on your tranny. Has anyone heard of people running a Rekluse having transmission problems?
Posted 11 March 2008 - 08:55 AM
I would also recommend getting Rekluse z-Start Pro version over the regular z-Start. This way there is no need to buy the extra perch adjuster separately to retain clutch use. The Pro let's you retain the cluch lever and has better clutch feel. After you install the Pro and do the post install adjustment check it should stay in adjustment for the life of the clutch pack. The Pro also lets you choose either a soft or hard engagement rate by running either 24 or 27 ball bearings. With the regular z-Start you need to buy tungsten balls separately to change the engagement rate. With the Pro the engagement rpm can be changed between low, medium, and high depending on which springs you run.
The Rekluse is an auto clutch that uses centrifugal force to move ball bearings between a pressure plate with ball ramps. It will engage and disengaged the clutch depending on engine rpm. You will basically get perfect clutch feathering automatically.
The Rekluse z-Start doesn't retain the use of the clutch lever unless you buy the seperate perch adjuster. The Rekluse z-Start Pro retains the use of the clutch lever. It's best to still use the clutch lever when shifting. You can shift without using the clutch, but use common sense and don't shift if the engine is under high load and high rpm's.
A slipper clutch is different than an auto clutch. A slipper clutch disengages when it senses the effects of engine braking. There used for road racing on street and supermoto bikes. They keep the rear wheel from loosing traction when downshifting before entering a corner.
Nigel Tufnel said:
The Rekluse z-Start w/perch adjuster will allow you to fully disengage the clutch at low-mid engine rpm's. The Rekluse z-start Pro will allow full disengagement at all rpm's. I have not heard of anyone having transmission problems from using a Rekluse. It is possible that if someone was using the original z-Start without the perch adjuster and abused the bike by shifting during high load high rpm conditions that they could cause transmission damage, but again use common sense.
Posted 11 March 2008 - 09:54 AM
Nigel Tufnel said:
Its not harder on the tranny. Just blip the throttle and shift.
Posted 11 March 2008 - 10:02 AM
Are you absolutely sure ?
Posted 11 March 2008 - 11:58 AM
Yes, I'm absolutely sure.
In 20+ years of riding and racing, I've never used the clutch to up shift or down shift and I've never torn up a tranny. Auto clutch or not, as long you unload the tranny (blipping the throttle) you can shift it without fear of tearing up the tranny.
Now, if your cramming the shifter at wide open throttle, then your asking for problems.
Posted 11 March 2008 - 12:54 PM
Posted 11 March 2008 - 02:47 PM
When I had a normal clutch I never used it for shifting unless I was power shifting under hard acceleration. With the Rekluse I still tap the clutch lever when power shifting but that's it as far as shifting is concerned. I feather the clutch manually when coming out of corners, hill climbing, etc...but I don't have to.
The Rekluse does not change your bike to automatic transmission...you still need to be in the right gear for the situation but it will take care of the clutching work in the tight gnarly stuff so you can concentrate on the trail.
Posted 11 March 2008 - 06:10 PM
Posted 11 March 2008 - 07:36 PM
I did try one. Actually I tried two. Couldn't take them off my bike fast enough.
My problem in Clanton was that I missed 2 turns both times when I was in the lead and I thought I had 10PSI in rear tire and actually had 14psi. I was slipping and sliding everywhere and I couldn't understand why until after the race. I usually do very well in Clanton. My bike ran very good and my suspension worked well. When I missed the turns I went from 1st to 4th. On last lap I got hung up in 2 bottlenecks too. I didn't get stuck but had to wait for a path to open up.
Posted 11 March 2008 - 10:16 PM
Posted 12 March 2008 - 09:46 AM
Posted 12 March 2008 - 09:55 AM