wr400 Did I get ripped off?


18 replies to this topic
  • manther

Posted March 03, 2008 - 10:59 AM

#1

Hey, I had a 2002 ttr250. It was nicely set up. I trimmed the snorkel out of the air box. There is no restrictor in the header. I put a procircuit t4 silencer on it. I rejetted it. I put a UNI air filter on it. I dual sported it. Got it plated tagged inspected. Then, I got pretty serious about trail riding every single week end. Well my ttr although fun was beginning to leave something desired in the power to weight dept. Not to mention I couldn't even hardly take it on the freeway anyway (it really gets blown around on the freeways). So I put out a few emails to trade guys with stronger bikes on Craigslist. My ideal bike would have been a post 2k yz250f. However, no one was taking me up on my offers to trade, until a guy with a 1999 wr400 wanted to trade me.
here's my ttr
Posted Image
Posted Image

Here's the wr400:
http://www.throwhome.com/untitled.bmp

Here's how the deal went down. I took the pro circuit silencer off the ttr, and kept it. I put the stock silencer back on the ttr. I gave the guy my ttr, and I gave the guy the original jets back. The guy gave me his wr and $150 in cash. And we exchanged title's.

So I ride the wr400 this sat. The power difference is awesome. The suspension is better. It's more rigid and offers more feedback. but the wr400 listed at 251lbs. feels much heavier in the sand then my ttr250 which is listed at 249 lbs. Also, I have been soo spoiled on the electric start... I know if you follow the starting procedure it's fairly simple, but obviously nothing compares to the magic button. Well I'm looking on Craigslist this morning and noticing wr400's all over the place for even cheaper then this guy was asking. Now granted the ttr250 is not exactly a highly reguared bike, but mine was done up pretty nicely. Of course sinse I kept the silencer and he gave me $150 in cash you could basically subtract around $350 from what he was asking...

So... did I make a good deal? I plan on taking as much weight off the wr400 as I can. I want to get 16lbs off of it. I will take the headlight, odometer, kick stand, and gaurds off. I will replace the fenders and tank and shrouds with YZ plastics. I'll probably sell my t4 silencer and get an after market pipe for this bike. And I'll probably put an aluminum sproket on it. After all that I think I will be happy... Maybe I should have just sold my bike and with a little extra cash bought a YZ F-series bike. The problem is I want something that doesn't exist. I want a light powerful electric start woods bike. If I got a YZ it would be geared all wrong for the woods. I like the WR suspension and engine. I just wish it was electric start and lighter. What's the verdict?
-Sorry for the long post.

  • bhiggins25

Posted March 03, 2008 - 11:42 AM

#2

On the face of things, I would say you didn't get ripped off.

Much though, depends on a couple of things.

First, the condition of the two bikes. The picture of the WR400 is pretty small, but it looks to be clean and in good shape. Frankly, it looks to be in better shape than the TTR. Obviously, that's good for you. What do you know about the history of the WR?

Second, a lot depends on the difficulty of getting a plate in your state. In California, where it is very difficult, plated bikes command a serious premium. If it would be relatively easy to get a plate in Texas for the WR (assuming you want/need one) then the trade was even better for you.

The weight issue is a separate one. Based on the information provided, though, I wouldn't lose sleep over this deal.

Ben

  • manther

Posted March 03, 2008 - 11:54 AM

#3

Hey thanks for the reply. Up close the ttr actually looks slightly cleaner then the wr. Looks aside though the ttr ran absolutley perfect. The wr still looks pretty decent. I rode it all day and aside from learning how to kick a 400cc engine over, it ran really well. Although when I slow to a stop it seems to take about 2 or 3 seconds for the idle revs to slow down and stabolize. I would love to dual sport this bike, but not without an electric start. I assume that an electric start conversion is a huge hassle.
BTW the 2002 ttr originally cost me $1300, I invested $350 getting it street leagal. The 1999 WR guy was asking $1950. But, I saw a nicer '99 wr400 with excel rims and an aftermarket pipe on it today for $1550. (But he was asking cash). BTW I think bikes go for quite a bit cheaper in TX then up north. (flooded market).

  • bhiggins25

Posted March 03, 2008 - 12:07 PM

#4

Hey thanks for the reply. Up close the ttr actually looks slightly cleaner then the wr. But, the wr still looks pretty decent. I rode it all day and aside from learning how to kick a 400cc engine over, it ran really well. I would love to dual sport this bike, but not without an electric start. I assume that an electric start conversion is a huge hassle.
BTW the 2002 ttr originally cost me $1300, I invested $350 getting it street leagal. The 1999 WR guy was asking $1950. But, I saw a nicer '99 wr400 with excel rims and an aftermarket pipe on it today for $1550. (But he was asking cash). BTW I think bikes go for quite a bit cheaper in TX then up north. (flooded market).



You're right - electric start conversion would be a major hassle and extremely expensive, if it's even possible.

If you paid a total of $1650 for the TTR, and you got to keep the pipe to sell on Ebay, and you got $150 in cash w/ the WR, your deal just got upgraded from good to VERY good. A similar condition and vintage WR would go for $1800 - $2000 here in California.

Ben

  • byggd

Posted March 03, 2008 - 12:29 PM

#5

I know you realy liked you TTR but lets face it the TTR is more of a play bike while the WR400 is a true race bike. IMO you did good. :smirk: as long at it runs strong.

  • Birdy426

Posted March 03, 2008 - 12:36 PM

#6

Yup, my thoughts exactly, a pretty good deal. I don't know why you wouldn't want to DS the bike even without a happy button...add the autodecompression cam and the starting drill goes away. Mine is a one-kick start most of the time...

The bike is a bit heavy, no arguing there, but a big part of that is the inertia from the motor. The reciprocating assembly has lots of rotating mass and you feel all of it. I don't know how much lighter the bike will"feel" with the mods you're talking about, but my perception is not a lot.

As far as the idle, try going up one size on the pilot jet or richening up the fuel screw. Hanging idle is typicaly a sign of too lean on the bottom. You might also disable the Air Cut Valve (ACV). For instructions and discussion, see WWW.ThumperFaq.com. It's about the 250's, but the process is the same.

As for the aluminum sprocket, I would only do that if you don't mind replacing them often. I have found that a steel sprocket outlasts an aluminum one by a whole bunch.

  • MotoGoalie

Posted March 03, 2008 - 12:47 PM

#7

I bet theres some dude in the TTR forum saying, "I got screwed on a trade for my old WR...".:smirk:

  • manther

Posted March 03, 2008 - 06:47 PM

#8

Thanks for the opinions. The guy I traded says the wr400 was just too much bike for him, and wanted something tamer. I think he'll be happy with the ttr. I'm pretty interested in this auto decompression thing. The sole of my foot was sore by the end of the day sat. So aluminum sprockets wear out pretty fast huh? Bought a Tag aluminum rear sprocket for my cr125. Hope it lasts at least a year or two. Of course the torque difference is rediculous. I called Cycle Gear today who I bought my t4 silencer from and they said they would take it back. I only got about 3 rides out of it. Pretty cool.

  • 1rkcooper

Posted March 03, 2008 - 07:16 PM

#9

Here you go. This is by far the best mod you can do to the WR400.

http://www.thumperta...078#post3706078

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • TRUE_2_YAMAHA_001

Posted March 03, 2008 - 11:19 PM

#10

I think that the guy gote the short end of the stick, even though 400 is older, it is still a 400 and is worth more than the tt-r 250. i wouldn't bother with the weight because unless you are going to be ridding it in top rpm pushing the bikes limits, you will not feel it. also, Dubatch racing makes a radiator lowering kit for the radiators, which is amazing, it makes the bikes center of gravity lower in term making th bike feel more nimble, i would suggest doing that before going through all the trouble of stripping the bike.

  • matt4x4

Posted March 04, 2008 - 06:07 AM

#11

you got an awesome deal, don't sell this bike short, they hold their value well and are tough as nails. Learn how to start it right (there's threads here on how to), mine never takes more than 2 kicks - actually it only requires 2 kicks if it sat more than a week, otherwise it starts on the first and once you figure it out, you'll likely not need to go the route of the auto decomp cam.
If your ttr was 249 lbs, then there's only 6 lbs difference, the 400 was listed as 255lbs dry out the door, get an aftermarket exhaust to shave a few pounds off, plastics aren't going to make any difference except the front plate, there might be an ounce or two difference on the rear fender but everything else is the same. The weight is likely a bit higher on this bike, which makes it more noticeable.

  • manther

Posted March 04, 2008 - 01:34 PM

#12

Thanks for the input, yeah I'm gonna give the bike a shot for sure. I just ordered a new T4 pipe for it, and a 450 exhaust cam. I know that the starting drill will get me starting the bike pretty easily, but I stalled it out on the side of a hill the first day (and only day) I rode it... Even the drill is a pain in that situation. From the posts in the 450 mod threads it looks like you even get a performance gain from the 450 cam mod... Also I have heard that switching to the YZ tank/shrouds/seat saves you about 5-10 lbs at the highest point of the bike and really makes a difference in the weighty feeling... I've got my eye on some YZ plastics. Oh btw I emailed Dubach racing development... Unfortunatley thay don't make a radiator lowering kit for the '99wr400.... Oh well.

  • byggd

Posted March 04, 2008 - 04:41 PM

#13

Thanks for the input, yeah I'm gonna give the bike a shot for sure. I just ordered a new T4 pipe for it, and a 450 exhaust cam. I know that the starting drill will get me starting the bike pretty easily, but I stalled it out on the side of a hill the first day (and only day) I rode it... Event the drill is a pain in that situation. From the posts in the 450 mod threads it looks like you even get a performance gain from the 450 cam mod... Also I have heard that switching to the YZ tank/shrouds/seat saves you about 5-10 lbs at the highest point of the bike and really makes a difference in the weighty feeling... I've got my eye on some YZ plastics. Oh btw I emailed Dubach racing development... Unfortunatley thay don't make a radiator lowering kit for the '99wr400.... Oh well.

It's not so much that the cam adds performance but the wr400/426 were know for a pretty hard hit in the midrange ..... the yz cam smooths out the hit so it pulls even/hard from idle through rev-limit. And yes the flip/ one kick start after stall on a hill climb is a big plus! :thumbsup: Oh and btw the yz and wr use the same shrouds.

  • carbide

Posted March 04, 2008 - 06:48 PM

#14

I recently purchased an 03 WR450 for $2200 which is pretty well used but cared for. I too was looking at the 400 and 426 and you seem to have done pretty well. I was very close to buying a 426 with very few mods for 1750, but opted for the 450. As long as the grin factor is high, what does it really matter? I'm sure the added power has made a big difference.

  • manther

Posted March 04, 2008 - 06:59 PM

#15

Yeah the power is the coolest part by far. Passing up my buddies on their kx250's will make it all worth it.

  • maxtherat

Posted March 04, 2008 - 07:42 PM

#16

Thanks for the input, yeah I'm gonna give the bike a shot for sure. I just ordered a new T4 pipe for it, and a 450 exhaust cam. I know that the starting drill will get me starting the bike pretty easily, but I stalled it out on the side of a hill the first day (and only day) I rode it... Even the drill is a pain in that situation. From the posts in the 450 mod threads it looks like you even get a performance gain from the 450 cam mod... Also I have heard that switching to the YZ tank/shrouds/seat saves you about 5-10 lbs at the highest point of the bike and really makes a difference in the weighty feeling... I've got my eye on some YZ plastics. Oh btw I emailed Dubach racing development... Unfortunatley thay don't make a radiator lowering kit for the '99wr400.... Oh well.


you'll only see the performance gains mentioned if you buy a yz 450 cam vs a wr 450 cam. Here is my .02. Pull your valve cover and check your valve tolerances to start. Now, if they are OK,set TDC, loosen the chain tensioner, remove timing chain from exhaust cam, and rotate the cam 1 tooth clockwise(retard). Now your cam timing is at yz spec. Ride and see if you like it and this will help you determine which cam profile is best for you. Don't forget the other free mods. Throttle stop, grey wire, air box... Ask the previous owner what has been done.

  • manther

Posted March 04, 2008 - 08:43 PM

#17

Oh yeah, I'm glad you brought that up. The previous owner said that the original showroom owner (the one before him) said it has been set to YZ timing already. So to verify that what he says is true I would need to see if the timing mark on the exhaust cam is back one tooth (clockwise) from the timing mark on the intake cam while the intake cam is pointing at 12:00 correct? Also he said the stop screw mod has already been done. Didn't mention the grey wire. I will have to check for that one.

  • Birdy426

Posted March 11, 2008 - 08:57 PM

#18

If you use a YZ tank and seat, you will save a pound or two, but the real benefit is in the ergos. You can slide so much further up the tank when you are cornering! The difference in handling is HUGE! You might consider an oversize YZ tank as opposed toa stock one, that way you don't lose fuel capacity for long rides. The Clark, IMS, and Zip Ty tanks all carry the fuel much lower than the stock WR tank that you really feel it. Plus, when going moto or on short rides you don't have to fill it to the top, so the weight feels even lower than with the stock YZ set up.

  • manther

Posted March 11, 2008 - 09:24 PM

#19

If you use a YZ tank and seat, you will save a pound or two, but the real benefit is in the ergos. You can slide so much further up the tank when you are cornering! The difference in handling is HUGE! You might consider an oversize YZ tank as opposed toa stock one, that way you don't lose fuel capacity for long rides. The Clark, IMS, and Zip Ty tanks all carry the fuel much lower than the stock WR tank that you really feel it. Plus, when going moto or on short rides you don't have to fill it to the top, so the weight feels even lower than with the stock YZ set up.


Hey thanks I agree.
I bought all yz plastics, and air box and subframe. Should be getting here in a few days. Found a guy who was parting out a whole bike. I'm planning on doing the wr yz conversion that is outlined here on TT. I agree the ergos look much more up to date and user friendly. Don't have to worry too much about long rides. I ride Mosier valley here in Dallas. Never have even come close to running out of gas. It's about 500 acres. Did the grey wire mod yesterday, and got my pro circuit pipe in.




 
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