Winter in Thumper-ville
Posted October 30, 2002 - 02:12 PM
Two questions for the wise and knowledgable:
1) What are some tips and suggestions on proper bike prep. for Winter riding(like cold days or in the snow)?
2) When the sad times of storage for a couple months comes, what are some best practices to winterize, then get ready again this coming Spring?
As a recent four-stroke convert, who frankly didn't care much about his mid-80's two-stroke, I would appreciate any replies to either question. Thanks!!
Posted October 31, 2002 - 05:46 AM
Then I couldn't keep it running and it died and would not restart. Luckily I was close to home and you get really warm when pushing your bike.
Turned out that snow had melted on the engine and flowed down all the vent lines from the carb and freezed to ice blocking everything.
So, run your vent lines into the airbox.
Posted October 31, 2002 - 04:56 PM
Posted October 31, 2002 - 08:19 PM
Also, my good man out East, starting the bike every once in a while is an idea I had forgotten from the good ol' two stroke days. I'll be sure to find ways of ticking off...I mean quietly putting by the neighbors. Or I can assume that what they can't see, they can't get mad at...okay, you're right, bad idea
Thanks for the comments!
Any thoughts out there about smart things to do right before Spring riding?
Off to dream of big air and technical mountain trails!
Posted October 31, 2002 - 11:27 PM
I've ridden my WR on fields with over a ft of snow and gotten snow plugged up in the radiators, around the carb, block and cylinder without problems.
Snow contains alot of air and acts as an insulator. When it hits a hot enginge it melts to water which cools the engine.
Have you ever heard of anyone cracking there block when going through a puddle of water?
Posted November 01, 2002 - 06:36 AM
If you decide that winter riding just seems like too much trouble and you are going to store the bike, this is what you should do. First of all, don't start the bike periodically, if you're putting her to bed, do it right and let her sleep! Starting the bike, letting it warm up, and then shutting it off causes condensation as it cools and you can get water in the oil (bad) and internal rust (bad,bad), so DON'T do it. Best to wash the bike well,change the oil (never store with dirty oil in the engine) lube the chain, cables etc., clean the air filter and put it away for safe keeping (not back in the bike). Now you can either put stabilizer in the fuel now or drain it all later. I prefer draining it,I have used stabilizer with no problems, but if the storage period is unexpectedly extended, you will have to drain it anyways. So start the bike up now with the stabilized fuel so it gets to the carb, (or without if you're going to drain it) and while the bike is running spray aerosol fogging oil into the carb until she's smoking out the exhaust like a Chrysler minivan with 300,000 miles. Shut the bike off, and don't start it again until you're going to ride it. Now drain the fuel if you chose to go that route, and put it in your sled or snowblower. Dampen a couple of rags with the dirty oil (from the change) and loosely stuff one in the air intake, and the other in the exhaust outlet. Depending on what environment the bike will be stored in, you may want to spray fluid film or something similiar on all exposed metal. Don't worry - brake clean will remove it easily when the time comes. If the bike will be sitting in a dry, temperature-stable place, you could probably skip that last bit. There - you're done, now go and have beer or something and quit yer cryin', spring will be here soon enough.
My bikes seldom get stored like that of course, I usually take the damn things all apart every winter and do the fix and upgrade thing. Number of upgrades dependent on amount of fixing required.
Peace Eh - P.Z.
Posted November 01, 2002 - 08:02 AM
Posted November 01, 2002 - 09:17 AM
Single trackin in the snow at night is a blast.
I can attest to the road salt problem. Its nasty if you have to trailer your bike. A couple of times when we had to drive like 1hr to go ride. We wraped the bike in shrink wrap to keep the salt off. Looked a little funny but it keeps the salt off.
I have never had a problem with a hot motor coming in contact with the cold snow. The only problem I have in the winter is gettin the sucker to start. I dont know about everyone else but mine is really cold blooded in the winter. Once Ive started it and warmed it up it runs great. But gettin that sucker started often requires a new plug.
And you really need to let them warm up good in the cold. We ice race sometimes and you cant get the bike hot enough to run right. We often put duct tape over the radiator fins to reduce the amount of air through it, and to help it warm up and stay warm.