650R Desert Racer Project


56 replies to this topic
  • BWB63

Posted May 26, 2008 - 06:46 PM

#41

After you loosen the top lock nut I take off the mud guard and grab the spring with both hands and turn. If the threads are all screwed up then it is a different story. I do an lot of these and it takes a while to get the hage of it but, both hands and turn.

  • Kenzo

Posted May 27, 2008 - 05:16 AM

#42

After you loosen the top lock nut I take off the mud guard and grab the spring with both hands and turn. If the threads are all screwed up then it is a different story. I do an lot of these and it takes a while to get the hage of it but, both hands and turn.


that' wut i do on the L but don't have to bother with removing the mud guard...

so i can access the lock nut from behind the mud guard also? ...i'm just using a tapered drift punch and a BFH to loosen it... :thumbsup:

TIA

  • BWB63

Posted May 27, 2008 - 05:48 AM

#43

that' wut i do on the L but don't have to bother with removing the mud guard...

so i can access the lock nut from behind the mud guard also? ...i'm just using a tapered drift punch and a BFH to loosen it... :thumbsup:

TIA


No, you still have to use a huge screw driver to loosen the lock nut and move the spring nut if it don't move.

  • Kenzo

Posted May 27, 2008 - 05:54 AM

#44

No, you still have to use a huge screw driver to loosen the lock nut and move the spring nut if it don't move.


gottcha...BFH & BFSD :ride:

:thumbsup:

  • Kenzo

Posted May 27, 2008 - 07:05 AM

#45

Anyone have a good CR500R engine? I need another one.:bonk:



doh!...boy u blew that one up quick! :thumbsup:

let's hear all of the gorey details :lol:

:ride:

  • BWB63

Posted May 27, 2008 - 12:30 PM

#46

Trying to biuld two at the sametime. I have a second frame with everything, now I need another engine. Why biuld one bike when you can biuld two at once?:thumbsup:

  • Bajajoe

Posted June 17, 2008 - 08:58 AM

#47

Another great weekend on the BRP.

I put 400 miles in two days and the bike just ate it up.

I still need to work on the motor and that will come next. It just does not run hard enough for my tastes.

PC exhaust, HRC kit with a decked piston for pump gas, more jet work, head port....

The suspension is still working good but now I think it needs a tweak.

I cant tell if the 47 springs are too stiff or if its the valving. I had a set of 47 so I replaced the 43 just to try it. But romping thru the rocks and sandwashes it seems that I have to keep the compression on the forks back all the way out. It did the Level I baja race mods

I wanted to go w progressive springs all along so that might be my next mod. Any thoughts? I am thinking 45 should be about right.

I did hit some BIG things at speed (70 mph) and the bike flew neutral and used every last mm of suspension travel. Its just a bit stiff for fast rocky two track.

It was fun keeping pace with the cars on the hwy in one section. I was only 50 yards off to the side and putting up a silt cloud for 10 miles. My buddies at the end of the valley could see me coming all the way. The faces of the one kid in the SUV as a rocketted away from them was just..... :thumbsup: Good bumps, jumps, and turns so I bet it looked good from the hwy.

I know.... where are the pics? Well its hard to take pics of yourself so I need to schedule the paparazzi to follow me around.

Next test with the above mods will be to go back to my secret Baja Test Area and run a late afternoon and all night 300 mile test run. Its getting too hot the run during the day so its time to bust out the lights and keep riding after the sun goes down.....

  • BWB63

Posted June 17, 2008 - 02:18 PM

#48

I did a quick re-read of the thread but, didn't pick-up your weight. I am sure it was there but, I gave up looking. The springs suport your weight and the stiffer the springs the more you are going to feel those springs. I can realy feel the difference between .45kg/mm springs and .47kg/mm springs. I can even feel the difference between Eibach .47kg/mm springs and Lindemann Engineering .48kg/mm springs. I feel little difference between Eibach .45kg/mm springs and stock. It gets much worse the stiffer the spring gets and even more if you are light. Doesn't matter how good the valving is for the stiffness of the spring for the feel of the spring (only in the context that I am talking about) but, the valving will make a huge difference in the control of that spring. So if you have valving for the right weight and spring for that weight you are fine but, if your weight doesn't change but, you change the spring your valving will be off. Stiffer spring with a lighter guy there won't be enough rebound control and to much compression control.

Balance between the front and back springs is very important when racing.

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  • Bajajoe

Posted June 17, 2008 - 02:26 PM

#49

Yo BW,

Thanks for checkin in. I weigh 170 w/o gear. I am running a 4.7 tank so...

That was going to be one of my questions...

Is there a big difference between 45 and 47?

Also, 4 clicks on the comp on the forks was a BIG change.

Yes, balance between front and rear. Ill make sure.

Rebound seems good right now. ran the clicks in and out and it got weird both ways so im about right for these springs. BUT will need to re adjust for the 45 spings.

I guess I will go ahead and try 45 springs which is what I thought I needed all along. Its just that I have the 47s laying around.....

Overall you can hammer the bike thru rocks and small med dez whoops and it remains stable and quiet. Not bad for "The Big Girl" aka "Two Tons o Fun".

Now if I can just get the damn brakes to work...... THis bike takes forever to slow down and I mean even on the pavement. But get into a fast fire road and LOOK OUT... You can't scrub of speed like my other bikes.

Always look for an apex escape route when dancing with the BRP!!!!

  • Potts228

Posted June 17, 2008 - 03:59 PM

#50

Posted Image

Footpeg Fix
HRC Cam w/ stock piston
Pro Curcit Pipe
Precision Concepts Suspension (AMAZING)
Braking OS Front brake
3.2 IMS Tank with DB
Scotts Sub Mount - Windham OS bars
Excel Rims / Buchanan's Spokes
Moose Insert front HD IRC tube in rear with Slime
MT18 Pirelli Front / Bridgestone Gritty rear
Baja Designs Rewind on Stator - 200watt
Baja Designs Dual Halogen 8" Light mounted to frame via Foes mount
15 / 47 gearing - Renthal sprockets
1.8 radiator Cap w thermostat removed
Stock skid plate (not in picture)
Tall seat (not in picture)

Bike only does about 95 miles per hour but will do this forever!

3rd place class 30 Baja 1000 2007

Didn't touch the bike since the 1000, washed it off last month and changed the filters and oil. Used it to pre-run the 500 and wished we were using it for the race. LOVE THIS BIKE!

:-)

  • BWB63

Posted June 17, 2008 - 04:34 PM

#51

Yo BW,

Thanks for checkin in. I weigh 170 w/o gear. I am running a 4.7 tank so...

That was going to be one of my questions...

Is there a big difference between 45 and 47?

Also, 4 clicks on the comp on the forks was a BIG change.

Yes, balance between front and rear. Ill make sure.

Rebound seems good right now. ran the clicks in and out and it got weird both ways so im about right for these springs. BUT will need to re adjust for the 45 spings.

I guess I will go ahead and try 45 springs which is what I thought I needed all along. Its just that I have the 47s laying around.....

Overall you can hammer the bike thru rocks and small med dez whoops and it remains stable and quiet. Not bad for "The Big Girl" aka "Two Tons o Fun".

Now if I can just get the damn brakes to work...... THis bike takes forever to slow down and I mean even on the pavement. But get into a fast fire road and LOOK OUT... You can't scrub of speed like my other bikes.

Always look for an apex escape route when dancing with the BRP!!!!



I run a 4.3 gallon tank and it does make a difference. I am 195 now and set my bike up for when I was 185 (I always give my weight with nothing on, some say dressed but no gear). With your tank you are only adding 15 pounds if full and most will only use half the added weight for suspension - about eight pounds. You are only having the extra weight for 50 miles and it is getting less and less fast.
I run S/S braided lines front and back but, it is the front that needs it. Bleeding the brake lines right is a most. Vacuum!!!
At your weight you should be able to pull off stock springs....... but, we all know that won't work at the speed you are flying at. With the right valving .45kg/mm fork springs and 10kg/mm shock spring, should be more then enough. Remember the shim stacks off the site are 400% better the stock but, are setup to use as many stock shims and the least amount of bought/different shims being added to make it user friendly (also least cost). I had lots of setups from guys that raced the Baja on the site but, it made it very confusing and I was getting 10 emails a day on which one was best for some rider I have never even seen or ridden with. If you are pushing the bike as fast as you are through some big whoops you will need a setup with a little more control. I can ride and really jump with .47kg/mm fork springs but, not race or do a long ride. .45kg/mm springs are for a rider without gear that weighs 200 to 240 pounds but, I bust that to 180 to 220 for serious racing. .47kg/mm is for 240 to somewhere close to 280 pound rider!:thumbsup: I push for a rider over 260 to use .48kg/mm springs from Lindemann Engineering http://www.le-suspension.com/ . I hope this helps....I don't like to make to many blanketted statements but, I would say the .47kg/mm springs would be a negitive for your weight and racing...inless the other riders on the teem were 260 pounds, then I would use an average. I expect to lite bottom quite often when I am pushing it but, not bottoming hard enough to effect the bikes tracking. It is light bottoming that you can clearly see in a video but, I can't feel it. .45kg/mm springs are working best for riders that are pulling the giant whoops going North out of SanFelipi up to 200 pounds. Those are some big wicked whoops for 24 miles......

I run a little stiffer then this now but, for long hard races this helps fight fatigue.
The bike is bottoming in this video, the bike is still tracking good and there is little movement from the rider, I think this is as soft as this suspension could go for that drop off:
http://borynack.com/...deo/dropoff.wmv
as you can see in this picture that is from a frame of that last video:
Posted Image

but, this I felt and will not work, the suspension saved the rider but, that is all it did:
http://borynack.com/...bottom2slow.wmv
http://borynack.com/...ideo/G-0ut2.wmv

  • Bajajoe

Posted January 27, 2009 - 10:20 AM

#52

Hi BRP Fans. Great bikes and man do they just eat up the dez miles. I cant see a better bike for leaving camp at 9 am and knowing you will not be home until the trip ODO reads at least 150 miles. Thumpa, Thumpa, Thumpa.....

Still working building this to the hilt and now have a question;

I installed a HRC cam and the extra wide cam chain, spockets, tensioners, ..... easy job, but the cam sprocket had no EX mark so I lined up the stocker and made a make w a sharpie. The cam was definetely "pointing down" and the rockers were at the low point on the backside of the cam.

Now the bike started up just fine but did not run well at all at speed.

I was running the prefered hop up jetting with a PC full header exhaust and a No Toil (extreme) air filter. I was a 4000 feet elev and temp was 40 F. Stock piston. I also just installed a rewound stator.

Bottom line is the cam makes crappy HP and does not run thru the mid RPMS and does not pull upper revs. Blubbering maybe?

I figure this could be a few things so i tried this;

1. I pulled the air filter and rode down the high way. It improved but not great.

2. I dropped the needle two slots. Better but still pathetic HP and still felt rich until the motor was wound out. Still not impressed up top. And motor was not as smooth as i remember.

3. Drop the float (lower fuel height) to see if this would lean it out "all over". No Change.

4. played with the fuel screw. this did help some but....

Bottom line is this bike should being stomping MAD with torque and HP IMO. It does not make sense to me...

I did not have any main jets so that is why i did what i did. I did not stick a small dia wire up the 172 main but thought about it.

So, here is my Big (BOG?!) questions;

Could I have the cam one tooth out, have retarded timing, and there for it runs like crap thru the mid and top?

I plan to retry the following;

1. put in a stock (normal) No Toil airfilter. retest.
2. remove carb, dissassem, clean, rebuild to closed course specs. retest.
3. this may be #1 depending on advice, put a cam index wheel on the rotor and verfiy the exact position on the piston (TDC) with the cam and also the cam durations etc.
4. Advance the cam 1 tooth, check for clearance issues w the piston and run the bike. This only takes about 45 minutes so....

I love a HP challenge and fiddling with bikes.

Any thoughts?

  • eastreich

Posted January 27, 2009 - 05:02 PM

#53

You probably have a cam timing issue. Even with the stock piston you should feel a noticable increase in midrange pull without any flattening out on the topend until you hit the rev limiter with the HRC cam.

I would also pull out the carb jets and give 'em a good cleaning. FWIW I personally would be running at least a 180 main with your setup. The HRC kit (if you had bought it all as one piece) comes with mains from 180-190 in size. I run the same main in the stock carb or the FCR that I run and I was using a 185 in Lucerne last weekend with no hiccups (except for the few times I hit the aformentioned rev limiter). I am using the higher comp HRC piston, but the jetting in a friends 650 that was using the entire kit sans piston as you are was very happy with the same jetting that I use.

Do you have the sidepanel opened up? You may be starving for air if you have not done anything about that. I have so much junk shoved under the seat (DC rectifier/regulator for HID and a battery) that I have to have the sidepanel opened all the way up or my bike chokes hard at higher revs. The extra electrical parts and wiring mess blocks off my stock air intake holes.

  • Bajajoe

Posted April 20, 2009 - 12:01 PM

#54

Another great weekend in the dez.

300 miles in two days and the BRP ran like a champ.

My latests tweeks are;

CRF450x muffler and mid pipe. This was a quick and easy mod to do, its much more quiet than the open pipes some companies sells, and the bike stills rips. 14/48 gearing and the top speed on the GPS was 97 mph. I held this down a rough road section for about 3 miles and never lifted. Just held it wide and drifted the corners. Got to love Honda engineering and Valvoline Durablend.

Front Forks - I have put in my own valve mods and have found the plush ride to be 3 wt shock oil and .42 springs. I still have room to move the compression adjusted around to soften it up and or run it stiff. I can still jump and take some big hits and not buckle. Very balanced front and rear.

Jetting - I have leaned off the jetting so as to recover some fuel mileage and the bike is running well, not lean, still lite choco brown on the plug and tail pipe.

My problem is that the stupid float overflow keeps dribbling. I set it a 16 mm to just when the float tang touches the needle spring rod, but this dribbles out the tube, sometimes. So I took it apart on the trail and bent the tab to 15 mm. It still dribbles sometimes. ?????????????????

16 mm and the bike seemed to be jetted perfectly all over from idle to full rpms. 15 mm and its not great down low, of course.

It seems to only do this (some times) right after I shut off the bike. Leaning it over and upright does not change anything. When the bike is idling it does it much less? And then I get back to camp, grab a beer forget to turn off the gas and it sits there for hours and does not dribble.?????????????

I have dissassembled the carb and blew out all the vent hoses.

I have replaced the needle and inspected the brass seat (non removable??) with a magnifying glass and cant ses a problem. I have never seen this on any of my other bikes.

Help? Whats the point of carrying 4.3 gal of gas when your bike is peeing out on the ground?

Brakes are still worthless. Fresh fluid and pads but when hammering at +60 mph and slamming brakes there rear goes away quick. I will keeping tweaking. Front is working better tho. I may pull apart the calipers and clean and inspect.

Any ideas.

  • jordan44

Posted June 01, 2009 - 01:38 PM

#55

my bike has the same peeing issue. Took it in twice to no solution, they but new carb in for me and two rides later same thing????????????????

  • Denn10

Posted June 01, 2009 - 02:01 PM

#56

fuel peeing out is something causing the needle in carb to not seat properly and regulate the fuel level in the bowl. Have to take off bowl and look at it, alot of times its just something like a small piece of rubber or grain of sand blocking the needle from sealing properly, adjust float height also while your there.

  • jordan44

Posted June 01, 2009 - 02:07 PM

#57

looks like my gas tank has some debris in it...wondering if that is causing the problem.





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