XR600R Questions


10 replies to this topic
  • CZryan47

Posted February 26, 2008 - 10:49 AM

#1

I was lucky enough to given a well used '95 XR600, and am currently replacing things like wheel bearings, chain/sprockets, shock bearings, rear rotor, etc. The only thing I have done to the motor is adjust the valves. I am intending to go in and look at the clutch and oil pump in the next day or so.

Question 1: What is a good way to tell if the oil pump is working properly? The Honda manual mentions an oil level check bolt on the lower right side case. I would assume that you would idle the bike for several minutes, shut it off, and remove the bolt with the bike in an upright position? The manual doesn't really specify.

Question 2: Are there any other (cheaper) luggage racks out there that will work other than the Pro Moto Billet/XRs Only types?

  • martinfan30

Posted February 26, 2008 - 11:03 AM

#2

You need to actually go for a short ride and then check the oil level immediately. In this dry sump system, the oil start draining down into the crank case right after shutdown.

There are several less expensive racks I have seen on ebay. I really like the quality of my PMB though.

  • cleonard

Posted February 26, 2008 - 11:49 AM

#3

I wouldn't sweat the clutch unless it's slipping. There is also a oil screen accessible with the clutch side cover off, but I have never seen crud there in any of my XR's and XL's. I only clean it when I'm in there for some other reason.

I have never got a useful reading out of that oil check bolt. It will leak out if there is way too much oil, or the pump is having problems. You need to run the bike for at least 5 miniutes before checking.

The only oil pump check that I have done it to loosen the oil pipe banjo bolt at the head to see that oil is getting pumped. I do this after a rebuild or if I mess with the oil lines.

One thing that you do need to do is clean the frame oil tank screen. Drain the oil and remove the bottom oil hose. Then remove the screen assembly. Use a box end wrench or a big six point socket. It can be hard to get it loose.

It is a good idea to clean and re-lube all the bearings. Get some of the Honda moly paste for the places that it is recommended(shock bearings, etc.). It is available from any Honda dealer. Do the swingarm, the linkage, and the steering head. My guess is that you will find some that need replacing.

  • creeky

Posted February 26, 2008 - 01:14 PM

#4

I am intending to go in and look at the clutch and oil pump in the next day or so.
?


If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Cleonard has good advice. This outfit www.turbocity.com has a selection of good quality luggage racks.

  • CZryan47

Posted February 27, 2008 - 05:32 AM

#5

Thanks for all the advice. I will hold off on pulling the right side cover.

I did clean the oil screen in the frame, which had a few small bits in it. I regreased the steering head bearings. A couple of the rollers were discolored, but no pitting or damage, and the races were undented. Upper and lower shock bearings were shot and are being replaced. The swingarm and linkage bearings had no play, and moved freely and smoothly, so I gave them a shot of grease and left them alone.

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  • Butta

Posted February 29, 2008 - 10:45 AM

#6

Thanks for all the advice. I will hold off on pulling the right side cover.

I did clean the oil screen in the frame, which had a few small bits in it. I regreased the steering head bearings. A couple of the rollers were discolored, but no pitting or damage, and the races were undented. Upper and lower shock bearings were shot and are being replaced. The swingarm and linkage bearings had no play, and moved freely and smoothly, so I gave them a shot of grease and left them alone.


I'm in the middle of replacing piston/rings on two XR600's....got one done and let me tell you, the difference is quite amazing. Might be worth the time and $ (maybe $200 each, and about 8 hours labor to do yourself) so you get a good look at it and can start from a known performance base.

  • CZryan47

Posted March 02, 2008 - 06:46 AM

#7

I'm in the middle of replacing piston/rings on two XR600's....got one done and let me tell you, the difference is quite amazing. Might be worth the time and $ (maybe $200 each, and about 8 hours labor to do yourself) so you get a good look at it and can start from a known performance base.


I will probably get around to a top end, especially if I plan any Baja trips. My KTM is first in line, however. Any advice on the timing chain? How durable are they and should I be concerned about replacing it?

Progress report: About $800 later, and it's together. No complaints, that's about a third or less than I would have spent buying a decent used dual sport bike. :smirk: I will be going out for an easy ride today (easy because I broke my left big toe about three weeks ago). It passed emissions easily yesterday, and will have a plate by next weekend.

Thanks again for everybody's input.

  • CZryan47

Posted March 20, 2008 - 05:44 AM

#8

Well, I've got about 130 miles on the pig, and it is working pretty well. It smokes some on startup, but the motor sounds nice and tight with no weird noises. My buddies say it doesn't smoke at all when running. It generally starts in three kicks cold with no choke, and one decent kick when its warm.

Even after putting in new rear wheel bearings, there was still some play. Turns out that the bearing bore in the hub on the sprocket side has beaten itself about .006 larger than the bearing. I wrapped two .003 feeler gages around the bearing, which seems to have cured it. (I hope to eventually find a reasonably priced hub.) The kickstand mount also broke off, so I welded that back on and added a small brace.

I have been playing with the suspension, which leads me to another question: are the clickers on the bottom of the forks for compression or rebound? (This is a '95.)

  • Butta

Posted March 20, 2008 - 07:39 AM

#9

That's funny, I had to have the sidestand re-welded on mine too....must be a weak point after so many years....

  • creeky

Posted March 20, 2008 - 09:04 AM

#10

The clickers on the bottom of the forks are compression adjusters. The smoke on startup is probably from oil leaking past the intake valve stem seals, just a drop or two of oil will cause noticeable smoke. If the engine is not using oil (or very little), I wouldn't worry about it.

  • CZryan47

Posted March 20, 2008 - 10:11 AM

#11

It didn't use a noticeable amount of oil on a 93 mile ride. It does leak from the frame backbone, however. I am going to track that down and plug it with JB Kwikweld.

As always, thanks for the responses and help.





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