Cylinder Honing

5 replies to this topic

Posted February 22, 2008 - 12:25 PM


I've searched, and searched......there are numerous references to using a ball hone and passing it a few times with oil.....there has been mention of a "link" or a procedure. as far as I can tell I need a 4 1/8 ball hone 180 grit...

The cylinder should also be honed before assembling it, but not with a fixed stone hone. You should use a "flex-stone" ("spring ball", "bottle brush") like the one pictured below and at this link:


Lube the hone with solvent, and turn it at about 500 rpm. To use it, insert it into the cylinder and as soon as you start the drill, begin running the hone up and down the bore so that one pass down the bore, up the bore, and back down again takes about 1 second. As you make the 4th pass back up the cylinder, pull the hone out of the bore before stopping the drill.

The cylinder will now have the glaze broken in a cross hatched pattern, and if the wear at the top is not significant, the shadows will be gone as well. This process removes virtually no material from the cylinder, but puts down a surface in which the rings will seat almost as soon as the engine starts.

Clean the cylinder thoroughly with solvent. Then follow up by wiping the bore with a clean, lint free cotton cloth and some ATF (auto trans fluid). You'll be surprised how much the ATF will lift out of what you though was a clean bore.

Posted Image

This is the best reference of a previous post that I can find....where is the link/procedure that is mentioned in another post, or will the above mentioned just about cover it???

  • grayracer513

Posted February 22, 2008 - 12:47 PM


That post may be what they were talking about. It's fairly comprehensive, I think.

Did you have a question?


Posted February 22, 2008 - 03:49 PM


There seems to be a ball hone specifically for nikasil applications, an Aluminum Oxide ball hone, should I get that one specifically, or is the generic ball hone used for regular non-plated blocks the one to use? Just want to be sure before I order one.

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • grayracer513

Posted February 22, 2008 - 05:00 PM


The AO hone is a little harder, but the normal one will de-glaze reasonably well. Remember that you're trying to refinish only the bore surface, and remove as little material in the process as possible. Still, if the price is not much higher, I'd go with the one made for the purpose.


Posted February 22, 2008 - 07:13 PM


Thanks Gray, I really value your time and opinions, and also from our other experienced members as well:applause: :smirk: :)

  • 2grimjim

Posted February 24, 2008 - 07:57 AM


#180 is too coarse. #320 is a better selection.

It makes no difference in the type of abrasive material in the stone. Aluminum oxide, silicon carbide, tungsten carbide, and diamond are all equally effective, the only difference is the cost and how long the hone will last.

Related Content


James Stewart back on a YZ450F by YamaLink

Dirt Bike   Special Interest Forums   Pro Racing
  • Hot  47 replies

2016 YZ450 by CaptainKnobby

Dirt Bike   Dirt Bike Technical Forums   Suspension
  • Hot  59 replies

Chubby dad, looking at bikes , First trip to the orange/black forum ! by Slow_ride

Dirt Bike   Make / Model Specific   KTM   250-530 EXC/MXC/SXC/XC-W/XCR-W (4-Strokes)
  • Hot  28 replies

yz250x vs 450 4t comparisons (preferably desert riding) needed by JakeNorthrupYZ450F

Dirt Bike   Make / Model Specific   Yamaha   Yamaha 2-Stroke
  • 9 replies

Yamaha YZ450F 2017 by Chris.GVS

Yamaha YZ450F 2017
  • - - - - -
  • 0 reviews

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.