08 WR 450F spark plug removal


8 replies to this topic
  • Demo_Slug

Posted February 21, 2008 - 12:37 PM

#1

do I have to pull the fual tank to get to the spark plug??? I'm trying to install an hour meter.

  • William1

Posted February 21, 2008 - 01:50 PM

#2

Yup. Once you have done that, to remove the COP (Coil Over Plug), disconnect the wire, then you can feed it back and up between the frame rails.

  • Demo_Slug

Posted February 22, 2008 - 03:30 PM

#3

Yup. Once you have done that, to remove the COP (Coil Over Plug), disconnect the wire, then you can feed it back and up between the frame rails.


are you saying I have to remove the tank any time I want to check the plug, or I just need to do it to make hour meter install more easy? Is there a better board to search?

I figure I could at least get the cop off even with the tank installed, but I can't.

I got the XXL hands, and I'm having a real issue getting the COP off. I can't get my thumb on it. and there is a breather hose in the way.

does the COP just pull off? will I break the elbow off if I use a screwdriver to pry the cop out?

  • Speedracer747-400

Posted February 23, 2008 - 12:09 AM

#4

I would resist the temptation of prying on the COP with a screwdriver. Try rotating it a little bit and pull it out by hand. I use a little Dow Corning DC4 on the rubber boot to insure easy removal. Silicone spray will also work if you can't find the other stuff.

Here's an alternate method of attaching the wire to the COP. It's meant for a Trail Tech Vapor computer tach hookup, but should also work for your hourmeter. Check out page 2 option 3.
http://www.trailtech...nstructions.pdf

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  • suzukipoo

Posted February 23, 2008 - 12:11 AM

#5

Just pull on the elbow while you turn it from left to right and once its off clean all the parts and hole then add some grease on the rubber part of the spark plug cap then reinstall!!!

  • tweav

Posted February 23, 2008 - 07:54 AM

#6

when I pulled mine it was a pain in the butt . I had to twist and pull for like 10 minutes before mine gave in the first time . I put spark plug boot greese that I got with a set of car wires , to stop it from getting that tight again . I think the greese is just dia - electric greese.

  • William1

Posted February 23, 2008 - 08:59 AM

#7

Just a FYI.
Plug removal on a F model should be a very infrequent job, so the difficulty in accessing it should not be a issue. Additionally, I would not grease the boot where it goes into the head. The heat will soften the grease, it will migrate into the plug cavity and enabler dirt to stick. I wipe the boot with thin silicone, just enough to enable a easy slip in. It seems the silicone appears to evaporate, leaving no residue.

  • Demo_Slug

Posted February 23, 2008 - 12:14 PM

#8

I would resist the temptation of prying on the COP with a screwdriver. Try rotating it a little bit and pull it out by hand. I use a little Dow Corning DC4 on the rubber boot to insure easy removal. Silicone spray will also work if you can't find the other stuff.

Here's an alternate method of attaching the wire to the COP. It's meant for a Trail Tech Vapor computer tach hookup, but should also work for your hourmeter. Check out page 2 option 3.
http://www.trailtech...nstructions.pdf


thanks for the link Speed. big help.

I've got the Yamaha hour meter, its a single wire model... so, I'm pretty sure option 4 is the only one that will work for me. I'm pretty sure option 3 will only work with dual wire hour meters, there is only 12V on that pin.

  • tweav

Posted February 23, 2008 - 04:25 PM

#9

Just a FYI.
Plug removal on a F model should be a very infrequent job, so the difficulty in accessing it should not be a issue. Additionally, I would not grease the boot where it goes into the head. The heat will soften the grease, it will migrate into the plug cavity and enabler dirt to stick. I wipe the boot with thin silicone, just enough to enable a easy slip in. It seems the silicone appears to evaporate, leaving no residue.



I greesed the plug because that is what the coil was stuck to when I got it out you could see where the boot had glued itself fast . virgin rubber does that without greese that is why you alway get a little tube of greese with a good set of plug wires . most wires has a light coat of silicone from the mold when they are made but it is not enough to stop it from sticking to the plug . I really can't see too much dirt getting down into the spark plug hole if it is installed right . I'd sooner risk getting a little dirt stuck fast then rip the coil in half the next time I change the plug , But that's me I'm wierd like that.




 
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