2005 WR Engine problems


11 replies to this topic
  • Narrdo

Posted February 16, 2008 - 07:00 PM

#1

I dumped my WR in muddy water in the the spring of last season. After finishing that ride, I changed the oil several times but during the next dual sport, I started having engine problems. I ended up replacing the timing chain, cams, piston and rings. Im pretty sure everything is installed correctly as the bike starts and runs fine, but it developed a ping that my buddies hear while riding around me. Burns a little oil too, but I believe that is because of incorrect valve adjustment. I finished the season on that bike and parked it till now after the Oct. Dual sport.

However, the problem that Im concerned with, is that after several oil changes and having just changed it today, the oil, after only running for a couple of minutes is already turning black, I only ran it long enough to check the level.

Is it possible to flush out a motorcycle engine? Would that help? It seems to me that Im not getting all the old stuff out and its blending with the new. Is there something else mechanical that could be causing this?

  • dirtysouth

Posted February 16, 2008 - 11:43 PM

#2

I dumped my WR in muddy water in the the spring of last season. After finishing that ride, I changed the oil several times but during the next dual sport, I started having engine problems. I ended up replacing the timing chain, cams, piston and rings. Im pretty sure everything is installed correctly as the bike starts and runs fine, but it developed a ping that my buddies hear while riding around me. Burns a little oil too, but I believe that is because of incorrect valve adjustment. I finished the season on that bike and parked it till now after the Oct. Dual sport.

However, the problem that Im concerned with, is that after several oil changes and having just changed it today, the oil, after only running for a couple of minutes is already turning black, I only ran it long enough to check the level.

Is it possible to flush out a motorcycle engine? Would that help? It seems to me that Im not getting all the old stuff out and its blending with the new. Is there something else mechanical that could be causing this?



Hate to say it but if you filled it up with crud...you need to split the case and physically clean her out. There are always gonna be cavities that hold a little sand etc. When you ride and it eventually warms up the potential for that little bit of crud to break free and float around in there is now significant. You might consider going 488 and making a true project out of this. I would ride it till death do you part then dig on into it.:applause:

  • William1

Posted February 17, 2008 - 04:49 AM

#3

The fact that it is burning oil has nothing to do with valve adjustment.

Combining the oil consumption with the quickly dirty oil and the pinging leads me to think you have a serious ring/piston/barrel problem.

  • dazzabb

Posted February 17, 2008 - 08:22 AM

#4

The fact that it is burning oil has nothing to do with valve adjustment.

Combining the oil consumption with the quickly dirty oil and the pinging leads me to think you have a serious ring/piston/barrel problem.


+1

IMO it's not shit that got into the engine that is creating oil blackening,
fuel is more than likely getting into the oil from a dodgy piston/ring seal causing the oil to blacken.

Time to check the top end rebuild again.

  • Narrdo

Posted February 17, 2008 - 10:26 AM

#5

So what are we talking, New piston and rings again? They have to have less than 50 hours on them and, the old ones did not even look bad when I replaced them last summer. This sucks...

For Sale 2005 WR 450!!!

  • William1

Posted February 17, 2008 - 01:05 PM

#6

Well, when you did the rings the first time, what was done to the barrel to freshen it? Was a ball hone or at least a good cleaning with Scotchbrite done?
Was the piston to barrel clearence confirmed?
Were the ring end gaps set?
Were the rings all set 120 dregrees apart?

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  • Narrdo

Posted February 17, 2008 - 03:15 PM

#7

It was cleaned, there were no scratches pits or marks on the piston or the jug. The piston and rings were replaced but I honestly don"t remember checking the clearance. The rings and gaps were set correctly though.

You all are probably right, needs top end done again, I guess Im looking for the easy way out. Im tired of throwing money at it

  • Narrdo

Posted February 18, 2008 - 06:23 AM

#8

If Im going to start another top end job on this thing but I have a couple of questions:

Is it possible, if the piston looks ok, to just replace the rings with a set that is a little larger?

Should I really just replace the piston and rings as a set and go larger than stock on both?

How do I check the trueness of the jug, to make sure its not out of whack? I have been told that they can not be honed because of the coating on them. If it looks clean, no scratches, gouges, pits, Should I just go with it?

I'll take any advise, I can get.

thanks

  • dirtysouth

Posted February 18, 2008 - 06:03 PM

#9

If Im going to start another top end job on this thing but I have a couple of questions:

Is it possible, if the piston looks ok, to just replace the rings with a set that is a little larger?

Should I really just replace the piston and rings as a set and go larger than stock on both?

How do I check the trueness of the jug, to make sure its not out of whack? I have been told that they can not be honed because of the coating on them. If it looks clean, no scratches, gouges, pits, Should I just go with it?

I'll take any advise, I can get.

thanks



Not positive about the coating. They make a dial bore guage for checking cylinder bores and main bearing bores, however, they are pricey. You can also use a telescoping guage then pull it out and measure it with outside micrometers but a machine shop that already has these tools will likely measure it for you FOC. It needs to be measured at several different angles/locations as these guages stretch from one side of the bore to the other. Carry your jug to a machine shop and let them check it. Check this link to see why that may not be necessary...
http://www.maxpower-...yz-wr488ice.htm
:applause:

  • Narrdo

Posted February 18, 2008 - 08:13 PM

#10

Those look pretty cool, a bit pricey though. I think I know of a shop that can look at the jug for me, thanks.

  • William1

Posted February 18, 2008 - 08:27 PM

#11

There is no 'coating' on the barrel. It is NikaSil plated. Very hard and durable. The ball hone/scotchbrite removes deposits and gives the rings a chance to seal right. When you put the piston back in, do not apply any oil to the barrel or rings.

  • dirtysouth

Posted February 19, 2008 - 05:21 AM

#12

Those look pretty cool, a bit pricey though. I think I know of a shop that can look at the jug for me, thanks.


Know two guys running the 490 kit one Honda one Yamaha...these guys are mucho satisfied...dunno if its pride but every time I make mention of the cost for the kit they say it is well worth it :applause: :) :cry: and then make me look at roost for the rest of the ride:cry: These bikes sound sick too!




 
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