Another Edelbrock Problem / Solution?


6 replies to this topic
  • Agent2

Posted February 11, 2008 - 09:07 AM

#1

While riding this weeked my bike (650r) wouldn't idle down - had to blip the throttle for the RPM's to drop. Found out the pumper circuit rod was sticking. Pulled up the accordian boot, put a drop of lube on the shaft - problem solved. When I got home, disassembled and cleaned the carb just to make sure it wasen't a plugged vent. After reassembly, same problem. Again a drop of lube solved the problem. Anyone else have this problem with thier carb? Wondering if this is SOP for an Edelbrock.

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted February 11, 2008 - 04:20 PM

#2

While riding this weeked my bike (650r) wouldn't idle down - had to blip the throttle for the RPM's to drop. Found out the pumper circuit rod was sticking. Pulled up the accordian boot, put a drop of lube on the shaft - problem solved. When I got home, disassembled and cleaned the carb just to make sure it wasen't a plugged vent. After reassembly, same problem. Again a drop of lube solved the problem. Anyone else have this problem with thier carb? Wondering if this is SOP for an Edelbrock.


This seems to be a common problem, for what I believe to be (2) reasons:

- The throttle cables provided are a bit too short, and they bind VERY easily. Routing is critical.
- The return spring on the carb is not tight enought. It needs to be rotated one or two more turns, to make the carb 'snap' shut.

  • Agent2

Posted February 11, 2008 - 04:35 PM

#3

This seems to be a common problem, for what I believe to be (2) reasons:

- The throttle cables provided are a bit too short, and they bind VERY easily. Routing is critical.
- The return spring on the carb is not tight enought. It needs to be rotated one or two more turns, to make the carb 'snap' shut.

The cables aren't the problem - when I had the carb on the workbench it was still sticking. I have heard about rotating the spring one more time, was wondering if that would overstress the spring, guess not. Any tips on how to do the spring mod without taking the top end of the carb apart?

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  • Krannie McKranface

Posted February 11, 2008 - 06:00 PM

#4

The cables aren't the problem - when I had the carb on the workbench it was still sticking. I have heard about rotating the spring one more time, was wondering if that would overstress the spring, guess not. Any tips on how to do the spring mod without taking the top end of the carb apart?


You've got to remove the circlip to do it.

  • Agent2

Posted February 11, 2008 - 10:03 PM

#5

Thanks Krannie, I will check it out this weekend.
I know you like your 450, but if you aren't working you going to try to hit the TT Pig jamboree?

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted February 11, 2008 - 11:30 PM

#6

Thanks Krannie, I will check it out this weekend.
I know you like your 450, but if you aren't working you going to try to hit the TT Pig jamboree?


Hit the what, with the what now?

My BRP has suspension issues preventing it from seeing real off-road, till I tackle it (blown rear shock, under sprung front, etc). I have the parts, but not the time.

I am riding the X Presidents day weekend.

  • desmo900

Posted February 12, 2008 - 05:31 PM

#7

My pump would stick all the time. Last week I noticed that the bore of the pump still had rough machine lines in the aluminum. I used a Master cylinder hone to smooth it out... Pump is smooth as silk now.





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