2001 yz426 clutch basket grinding on case..WITH PICS


14 replies to this topic
  • YELL-OSNAKE

Posted February 08, 2008 - 11:17 PM

#1

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I've searched, and found 2000 models have some sort of basket problem/chatter. I have a 2001 and my basket fingers have expanded outward and ground into the side cover...LOTS of metal in filter area. to me basket had excessive side to side movement due to bushings on basket wearing out.....queston is will the hinson unit fix my troubles.....I now need a new piston, so I want to get it right....If I order the hinson basket from thumper talk @ $230 ,and new clutch pack, does this sound like a fix..... "grayracer513" :busted: , or anyone, please advise, I just want to get it right the first time. Also should I flush the case with kerosene to remove all the metal elsewhere (we do this on tractors)?, and I will clean the strainer also. thanks thanks thanks!

  • YELL-OSNAKE

Posted February 09, 2008 - 07:39 AM

#2

you can see on the case where it grinded, even hit the back side on the case opposite the brass insert; and the metal in the filter YIKES....I'm guessing the brass/copper or whatever the "bearing" (see pic) is on the clutch hub has worn. So I guess...with pics now , do I need a new stock basket, or will the hinson unit replace this bad part. Thanks very much

  • xr1million

Posted February 09, 2008 - 08:06 AM

#3

WOWsers, thats a lot of metal in that filter! I believe Hinsons for most bikes onlt replaces the aluminum basket itself. You have to press out the stock gear in the center of the basket and reuse it.
Are there any wear marks on the bronze bushing? Have you ever had the clutch apart before?

  • grayracer513

Posted February 09, 2008 - 08:57 AM

#4

The aftermarket baskets such as the Hinson will replace the aluminum portion of the assembly only, and as was pointed out, the process involves the drilling/punching out of the stock rivets, which are replaced with bolts included with the new part. The Hinson, and most similar products, are a higher quality, more durable piece that the original, as well, and are actually less expensive than replacing the complete assembly with OEM parts.

However, you may have trouble finding anything other than OEM parts for the 2000 model, if memory serves me. Even if you do find a replacement basket you can use on your original gear assembly, be certain that the gear and cushion unit itself are not at fault here. That is, inspect to se if in fact the basket fingers have "belled", or spread outward, as you have said, and that the face on the gear assembly where the basket attaches is running true and "flat".

In the course of this repair, you should thorough wash out the oil tank in the frame, rinse out the oil lines, and remove, clean, and inspect the oil pump. Also open the left side of the engine up and clean out the area around the sump screen, which you can access from that side.

  • YELL-OSNAKE

Posted February 09, 2008 - 09:00 AM

#5

Not really alot of wear on the bronze bushings, no scoring or groves, but did seem to have excessive side to side play to me. I never took this bike apart before it is a fixer upper I purchased, (was actually running), but you could hear a grinding/horrible sounds....made you want to pull out a shotgun a put it out of it's pain!!. Rod ok, needs new top end, have most top parts now...working on bottom end.
If my bushings are bad, the parts manual shows the whole basket assy (if I'm not mistaken). So how would I go about repairing it? I was hoping the hinson was my fix all, and not really holding one in my hands before, It's kinda hard to see what it really has.
YEAH alot of metal, more than I had ever seem in any bike before, kinda scary really. I honestly believe this was the original filter, both plastic ends were really hard to get out. I'm already in too deep to bail out, so I'm gonna stick this one out and fix it....hopefully

  • YELL-OSNAKE

Posted February 09, 2008 - 09:05 AM

#6

mines a 2001, I was saying I had searched alot before I started asking questions that had already been addressed, And all I could find was 2000 year problems.

  • grayracer513

Posted February 09, 2008 - 09:14 AM

#7

I see. I saw "2000" in the text and got side tracked. Hinson may still have something for you, then.

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  • YELL-OSNAKE

Posted February 09, 2008 - 10:00 AM

#8

After checking for trueness, which it seems ok, I re-assembled everything and checked side to side movement, and noticed this
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Now I believe this missing piece is what scraped the case (and basket as we can see). And prob weged itself between case and basket. With metal on metal contact, the bronze bushing wore, which would now explain my excessive side to side (or up and down in this matter). After the piece shredded, the damage was done, and now my basket could wobble, further chewing the case when revving. does this theory make sense?

Looks like I do need a whole "5JG-16150-10-00 PRIMARY DRIVEN GEAR COMP " assy #4.

If flushing with kerosene ok, or what should I use?

  • William1

Posted February 09, 2008 - 10:47 AM

#9

glad to see you nailed the cause. Flushing is better than no flushing. Fortunately, aluminum is fairly soft and will not (most likely) do catastrophic damage if any chips are flying about but.... if it were me, I tear the engine down and surgically clean all the parts. For me, flushing is what I'd do if I were stuck on Outer Mongolia in the forest.

  • grayracer513

Posted February 09, 2008 - 12:59 PM

#10

Whether you tear the engine down or not, you'll need to clean the inside of the tank (frame). For that, my favorite procedure involves removing the frame screen and pour a quart of 50/50 mineral spirits/ATF through the filler with the screen still out. Replace the screen, but plug off the outlet fitting. Refill the frame with hot, soapy water (a good commercial de-greaser like Oil Eater can be substituted for the soap). Agitate it some, let it sit for a few minutes, then remove the screen to drain it. Rinse with hot water, then another quart of solvent/ATF. Plug the frame again, and fill it with about 2 quarts of ATF that you have heated in a pan of hot water (the water limits the temperature to 212) and let that sit a while. When it's cool enough not to be a burn hazard, drain it, fill with any inexpensive engine oil, and drain it again. It's about as good as you can do at home.

Some of the cut areas you see in the crankcase cover was machined for clearance. You can tell, because it's neater than the other parts.

The part number you have there looks good to me. You can remove the primary drive gear from the crank and turn the basket assembly to check the gear assembly for trueness.

  • Ga426owner

Posted February 09, 2008 - 04:14 PM

#11

First question
was this a stock 2001 clutch that never had the clutch fix using 2000 Boss spring etc? I wondered what long term with stock clutch would result in
Looks to me like a lot of side to side wear also- does primary gear have play in it?
Hinson did make a basket for the 2001 and inner hub - not sure about pressure plate but if I was you and you are keeping the bike I would buy entire Hinson with 2000 clutch plates and boss spring and new clutch springs. If not go to 2001 basket, hub a pp with the 2000 plates and new springs.

also check that play in the gear -

  • YELL-OSNAKE

Posted February 09, 2008 - 07:40 PM

#12

the only history I have in regards to any replacement parts is ..I believe it to have had a rekluse auto in there at some point. In the box of stuff I got with the bike is about 40 % of a rekluse set, so I could only guess as to the bike's history or mods. I purchased the bike from a dealer in N.C. the fellow went to have head work done, and needed other stuff done. A year and a half later the dealer apparently owned the bike and sold it as-is.

I don't see any play at all in the main gear....Grayracer had stated some of the case grooving may have been machined for clearance. hopefully most of my metal came from the piece breaking off, but who knows with this negelected engine (did I mention I needed a new head also since the original dropped a valve SEAT. Got another from a 2000 model. stainless valves should be better in the long run, just check valve clearance regulary,right?
As of today I have pulled the motor off the frame for easier access/cleaning, and inspecting the oil pump....The oil pump looks to have been changed in it's lifetime...has hex bolts, and smoother finish than the rest of the insides, but yall could tell me better since this if my first time in a yamaha 426. Had a scare today...while flushing the bottom end and using compressed air to blow case, one of the alignment pins from the bottom of the cylinder was still on the block and fell in the tranny area while using the compressed air gun. An hour and a half later (with engine already out):applause: I finally got the booger to come out. Just imagine if I had not already pulled the block.:) :cry:
If I took pics could anyone identify to see if the springs have been changed, like are they a different color?

  • grayracer513

Posted February 10, 2008 - 12:21 AM

#13

First question
was this a stock 2001 clutch that never had the clutch fix using 2000 Boss spring etc?

It was the 2001 clutch that has the boss spring added at the factory to address the issues that the 2000 models had, not the other way around.

  • Ga426owner

Posted February 10, 2008 - 07:56 AM

#14

It was the 2001 clutch that has the boss spring added at the factory to address the issues that the 2000 models had, not the other way around.

correct info Grey...sux getting old:thumbsdn:

  • grayracer513

Posted February 10, 2008 - 01:24 PM

#15

...sux getting old:thumbsdn:

You have a ways to go yet, mister. :applause:





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