Help me with the sorry a$$ rear brakes XRR


13 replies to this topic
  • Dazzle

Posted February 08, 2008 - 05:06 PM

#1

Heading for the Copper Canyon next week and I have problem with the rear brakes on my XR650R. The rear brakes will not pump up firm. They feel initially like they just need to be bled but this in not the problem. I have bled them and bled them, even took the bike to the dealer. $45 dollars later they said they had them all "adjusted". No change. (No surprise either, but I am getting desperate.)

This is what happens. If I remove the caliper and place a 3/16 inch spacer between the pads the pedal firms up just fine. But mounted with the axle nut torqued to 69 foot pounds, the caliper rebounds out 1/8 inch or more everytime I let up on the pedal. Something is misaligned here but I can't figure out what.
With axle nut just snugged up the brake works fine. But not when it is torqued properly.

Help!

Dick

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted February 08, 2008 - 06:23 PM

#2

I just think you need to finish the bleeding process. It takes about an hour of pumping, relieving, and pumping, before it gets firm.

  • needsprayer

Posted February 08, 2008 - 07:25 PM

#3

This is a technique someone once recommended. I can't give proper credit because I forget who gave it.

Push pistons all the way in.
Put a shim in the space between the brake pad and the rotor leaving a little room then pump up the brakes.
Repeat by pulling the shim out a little.
Keep doing this until the pads firm up against the rotor.

  • haggeo

Posted February 08, 2008 - 08:07 PM

#4

i have the opposite problem, the brakes seem to drag a bit, i can hear them when i push the bike into the garage. i bled the brakes and it did not take an hour, there's not that much volume of fluid in there. i used a mityvac and it took a couple of minutes.

  • XR4DEZ

Posted February 08, 2008 - 08:53 PM

#5

I just think you need to finish the bleeding process. It takes about an hour of pumping, relieving, and pumping, before it gets firm.


Get some viagra. :busted:

  • jdubb75

Posted February 08, 2008 - 11:47 PM

#6

I just installed a brake light switch in place of the factory banjo bolt and it took about a half bottle of fluid to get all the bubbles out. I bet I filled the resevoir at least half a dozen times. It took a lot longer than I expected to bleed them. I can bleed a car faster than it took to bleed the R.

  • Dazzle

Posted February 09, 2008 - 12:08 AM

#7

I have Viagra. This is a different problem. :busted:

There is no air in the system. It firms up fine if the caliper is off the swingarm
with a shim between the pads. Some misalignment there is causing the caliper/piston to retract too far each time I let off the pedal. I am tempted to place a large washer between the caliper bracket and the swingarm to see what difference that would make. I was hoping someone else had encountered a similar problem.

Dick

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  • scalejockey

Posted February 09, 2008 - 06:58 AM

#8

sounds like the floating mount pins are sticky(most likley) or bent.


Or..the wheel bearing are really bad,but i'm sure you would of seen that.

  • Blacksamwell

Posted February 09, 2008 - 08:30 AM

#9

Get some viagra. :busted:


:worthy: :ride: :blah:

I almost sprayed coffee out my nose on that one.

  • weskc35k

Posted February 09, 2008 - 03:33 PM

#10

It's a warped disc old bean.
Actually it may not be but it sounds like it.

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted February 09, 2008 - 09:04 PM

#11

It's a warped disc old bean.
Actually it may not be but it sounds like it.


Yeah, warped disc, or the wrong wheel hub spacer! I put my CR spacer on my XRR once, and couldn't figure out for an hour why the wheel would not go on right..................

  • Dazzle

Posted February 10, 2008 - 12:28 AM

#12

Yeah, warped disc, or the wrong wheel hub spacer! I put my CR spacer on my XRR once, and couldn't figure out for an hour why the wheel would not go on right..................


OK guys, I am listening. The caliper/disc are out of alignment some way. But the disc sure looks good and it tracks cleanly when the wheel is spun. I will look closer and put a straight edge on it. The spacers are identical as I believe they are supposed to be (same part number).

This started or got worse after I had a local dealer install a new Maxxi Desert IT that I just couldn't get on myself. I have no idea what kind of trauma the wheel might have suffered while it was there.

Earlier today I made a 0.064 alum spacer and placed in between the swingarm and the caliper mount (at the axle). This helped and made the brake serviceable. I hope it doesn't create any other problems like uneven brake wear.

Thanks for all input.

Dick

  • yammx

Posted February 10, 2008 - 06:46 AM

#13

Yeah, warped disc, or the wrong wheel hub spacer! I put my CR spacer on my XRR once, and couldn't figure out for an hour why the wheel would not go on right..................


:applause:

  • scalejockey

Posted February 10, 2008 - 07:26 AM

#14

you should be able to push the caliper back and forth on the mounting pins.Push the pads back in the caliper first. Like i said before sounds like the pins are seized or sticky.You can remove them clean them up and re-greese.It's fairly common. The little rubber seals might be bad too.

As your were saying it happened after you had a desert IT put on.I wouldn't be surprised to see a bent disc from laying it on the ground and jumping on it like a gorilla. Those tires are a SOB to mount!! But you said you looked at that .





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