Exhaust stud removal


29 replies to this topic
  • SteveON

Posted February 07, 2008 - 08:53 AM

#1

I was removing the exhaust system from my NX650 today and unfortunately on the left exhaust pipe the upper bolt snapped off. It's protruding out far enough I get some vice grips on it but I can't get it to come out. I've tried heating the bolt with a torch several times, tapped the end with an extension and a hammer. Still it won't budge.....HELP!!!!!!!

http://s273.photobuc...nt=IMG_0615.jpg

  • jdubb75

Posted February 07, 2008 - 09:06 AM

#2

I don't know exactly what the head from the NX looks like, but try gently heating the area right around the stud and not the stud itself. The thinking behind this is that you want the hole to expand and not the stud. The problem is that the stud probably screws in farther than you will be able to heat. After a little heat, clamp on the vise grips nice and tight and peck the end of the stud while trying to turn. If this don't work you might have to look for a stud remover.

One other thing to ponder is that the threads on the end of the stud that screws into the head might be the opposite direction. I can't verify this though.

  • Motosprtman

Posted February 07, 2008 - 10:53 AM

#3

saok it in liquid wrench and or WD-40 overnite, Krano Kroil (used on guns) is also a really good seeper oil that penetrates deep, the get the vise grips on tight as you can and with pressure turn left to remove, should come out, also if ther is guck / rust built up around it and the face of the head, clean it as well as you can so that the penetrating oil can get in and do it's work. I just removed all four on a basket case 93 XR650L I am working on, soaked em for a few days with my mix as mentioned above and they came right out - nuts and all though...LOL

  • Smoke Eater

Posted February 07, 2008 - 11:27 AM

#4

I've used my Snap-On extractor set on more occasions than I'd like to admit.

Snap-On Extractor Set

It might seem expensive but it's a life saver. Soaking overnight with Liquid Wrench and giving a few taps with a hammer now and then should loosen it too.

  • LeadDoggy

Posted February 07, 2008 - 11:39 AM

#5

You may want to try to heat the head with your torch and then squirt in some sort of lube and that may drawn in the lube around the threads.

  • SteveON

Posted February 07, 2008 - 01:27 PM

#6

Thanks for the suggestions!!
I went out and heated the area again, applied some penetrating fluid, tapped, reheated, applied some more fluid, tapped a little more. It's not budging. I decided to call it a day and let the pentrating fluid soak in over night and try again tomorrow. I'll let you guys know how it all turns out. I sure hope I can get it out without messing up the threads. I definitely don't want to have to pull the head. I've never done that before on a bike and the whole cam, timing chain, etc is a little scary. If I do have to pull the head is it a job that can be done with the engine in the frame or does it have to be removed?

  • jdubb75

Posted February 07, 2008 - 01:35 PM

#7

It may be time to add to your tool collection and go out and buy a stud remover. You should be able to go to an autoparts store and pick up one pretty cheap.

Everybody likes new tools!:busted:

  • Rockjockey

Posted February 07, 2008 - 01:47 PM

#8

Worse case scenario is it breaks off and you have to use an easy out to remove it right?

  • XR650L_Dave

Posted February 07, 2008 - 02:15 PM

#9

You can hammer a nut on there and mig-weld it to the stud.

Just the heat from that often loosens 'em.

Dave

  • LeadDoggy

Posted February 07, 2008 - 03:06 PM

#10

You can hammer a nut on there and mig-weld it to the stud.

Just the heat from that often loosens 'em.

Dave


I like that idea! :busted:

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  • SteveON

Posted February 13, 2008 - 10:16 AM

#11

I went and bought a MIG welder today and tried welding a nut on the protruding stud. For some reason I can't get the wire to stick to the stud but it sticks like crazy to the nut. Any ideas?

  • martinfan30

Posted February 13, 2008 - 11:07 AM

#12

Not enough power?:applause:

  • LeadDoggy

Posted February 13, 2008 - 11:20 AM

#13

Stud maybe of a different material.

What kind of wire is in the Mig Welder?

Wonder what the stud is made of. :applause:

  • XR650L_Dave

Posted February 13, 2008 - 11:44 AM

#14

If you cleaned the end of the stud it should work OK. Is the end of the stud deep in the nut? If the end of the stud is deep in the nut, that could make it difficult.

More amps may be the key, as mentioned.


Dave

  • SteveON

Posted February 14, 2008 - 05:38 PM

#15

Well I ground down a nut to fit flush with the end of the stud. It made a good deep weld but when I tried to turn the stud out it just broke off the top where the weld was on the stud. I started taking the head off this afternoon but once I got the valve cover off I realized I needed a special tool to hold the cam chain tensioner...arg. I suppose it would just be easier to pull the entire engine than mess with the timing chain. So I suppose that's my next plan of action. All this for a $4.00 stud..go figure. I still have to weld up the exhaust pipe as well. I'm also going to mod the carb while I have it out. I sure hope it all goes back together with little problem.

  • chakaxr650l

Posted February 14, 2008 - 07:39 PM

#16

When you heated it did you heat it so the stud was cherry red? A few heat cycles and soaking in PB Blaster should free it up. Don't let it beat you.

  • SteveON

Posted February 15, 2008 - 07:24 AM

#17

It was a very bright cherry red! I'm going to let it sit until Monday and relax for a couple of days. I have someone sending me the special tool to hold the cam tensioner. Once it arrives I'll finish taking the head off. Then I'll have better access to the stud. I was thinking of putting in a new set of rings since I'll have it down that far anyways? Perhaps even a higher compression piston? Anyway, how hard is it to retime the cam and crank when I reassemble? It there anything special I should do before I remove the cam to make everything lines back up? the repair manual I have it pretty vague.
Thanks again for taking the time to reply. The saga continues.....

  • martinfan30

Posted February 15, 2008 - 07:39 AM

#18

When I put in my hotcam, I put it at TDC compression(the cam lobes will point down, at an angle). Then I used a paint pen to mark the chain to the cam sprockett. Then checked the lines on the sprocket lined up with the head. Then took some bailing wire and tied the chain to the frame. Dont let it fall into the engine or come off the crank sprocket. Make sure to use medium(blue) loctite on the cam sprocket bolts.

TORQUE everything !!

  • Denn10

Posted February 15, 2008 - 08:12 AM

#19

Stud maybe of a different material.

What kind of wire is in the Mig Welder?

Wonder what the stud is made of. :applause:


prolly the wire in the mig, see if you can see what it is. Maybe on the spool it will say something. The stud shouldnt be SS i wouldnt think. Did you get a nut that was coated? That will stop the weld from holding also. Try wire wheel or something to get nut and stud clean and free from any debris or coatings.

  • venne

Posted February 19, 2008 - 11:27 PM

#20

weld a washer on the same size as the stud, make washer if necesary,then weld nut to washer, turn with vise grips, if your a decent welder it should work ,





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