Clutch fix 2000 yz426
Posted February 06, 2008 - 02:45 PM
Here's the post from cowboyona426:
Just wanted to let you guys know that I rode the 426 for the first time today since doing the 01 clutch fix- this mod is definitely worth it! No more squeal, just hook up and go. Two things I noticed though- (1) the clutch pull seems stiffer, even with the longer 00 arm still installed, and (2) the engagement seems to be closer to the bars than before. This is a very easy mod to do.
Here are the needed parts:
5JG-16321-00-00 PLATE, FRICTION
5JG-16383-00-00 SPRING, CLUTCH BOSS
5JG-16384-00-00 PLATE, SEAT
93511-32027-00 BEARING, BALL (PUSH ROD ASSY.)
5JG-16356-00-00 ROD, PUSH 1
5JG-16357-10-00 ROD, PUSH 2
5JG-15453-00-00 GASKET, CLUTCH COVER
Note: You only need the clutch cover gasket if you tear yours removing the cover. If you don't tear the gasket, you don't need to replace it.
Here's the steps:
1. Drain the oil from the engine and the frame.
2. Pull the clutch cover- removing the rear brake will make it easier to get all the clutch cover bolts out. Because all the bolts are different lengths, leave them in the holes in the cover when you pull the cover. Pull the cover off evenly and you shouldn't have any problems with tearing the gasket, so you can reuse it.
3. Remove the pressure plate. The short pushrod will probably stick to the pressure plate, FYI.
4. Pull out all the clutch plates. Remember to keep them in order! I used two picks to help me get all the plates out.
5. Pull the long pushrod from the center of the shaft the clutch hub is mounted on.
6. Pour some clean oil in the clutch cover, and soak the new plate in the oil for 5-10 minutes.
7. Install the flat base plate.
8. Install the spring plate- make sure the side marked "OUT" faces toward the outside of the engine.
9. Install the new clutch plate.
10. Install all the old plates, taking out the innermost plate. I dipped each plate in the oil before installing them to help use some of it up.
11. Install the new long pushrod in the tranny shaft- make sure the end with the tapered end goes to the inside of the motor.
12. Install the short pushrod with the ball bearing inside.
13. Install the pressure plate.
14. Install the clutch cover- make sure you dump the oil out first!
That's it! It is a really simple mod. Some people have been installing the 01 clutch arm too- I didn't. If you do, it is supposed to move the engagement point of the clutch farther from the bars. Also, you will have to readjust the freeplay in the lever, because installing the 01 parts creates a lot of slack in the cable.
I'm not sure how much all the parts cost, because I managed to score them all for free from moto2000- thank you moto2000! I don't have the number for the 01 clutch arm, but your dealer should be able to find it easy enough. If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.
Posted February 06, 2008 - 04:23 PM
You'll have to adjust the cable slack once you get the install done.
Posted February 06, 2008 - 06:17 PM
So you only need three parts for upgrade?
Yes. I helped a fellow TTer do the mod last summer. It works great, the grabby clutch is gone and its holding up fine.
Posted February 06, 2008 - 07:51 PM
Posted February 06, 2008 - 08:00 PM
I may sound ignorant, but is the boss washer actually part #5jG-16384-00-00 PLATE, SEAT from the parts list on original post????
You need these 3 part numbers:
5JG-16321-00-00 Friction plate
Posted February 06, 2008 - 08:53 PM
Posted February 07, 2008 - 09:01 PM
One more thing I would like to get straight. When installing the new friction plate it actually replaces the old innermost friction plate. Just change the old for the new and the rest remain the same. Right?
Posted February 07, 2008 - 09:21 PM
did the upgrade and got a whole new set of plates, also installed an MSR ProRaptor lever/perch and now it feels like my GF's 125 clutch. havent had it on the track yet......but i can already feel a huuuge difference in clutch action.
Posted February 15, 2008 - 05:34 PM
Posted February 20, 2008 - 09:22 PM
I'm interested to see how this turns out for the few of you that are just doing it. (dejavudarrell) I had to rebuild my clutch last year because the innerhub spun free of its toothed portion...anyways, i dont notice any grabbing, but i do certainly notice a squel when i launch hard. And it is really annoying. I can only imagine the stress that must be going on inside the clutch to make that noise, and as such, i don't do any hard launches. If this fix is really worth it, I think I just may be placing an order for some parts soon.
Posted February 21, 2008 - 09:40 AM
Posted February 21, 2008 - 10:10 AM
Posted February 21, 2008 - 02:45 PM
No adjustment of the engagement point can be made with the cable except within the limits of the minimum free travel at the one hand, and the point at which the clutch has been pulled far enough to release at the other. This is because the cable adjuster at either end cannot affect the amount the internal push rod travels in relation to the amount of lever travel. That is to say that the point at which the clutch engages and releases is not adjustable independently of cable free play.
you adjust the engagement point by adjusting the cable at the engine side.
That being said, a problem of early engagement/late release can be caused by excessive free play at the cable. If your cable is too loose, tightening it will alleviate some of what is complained about here, but if it's already at the minimum, you can't change it.
It is normal to expect the catch/release point to change like this with the addition of the boss spring.
Posted February 21, 2008 - 03:14 PM
What is your opinion of doing this mod using only the 3 parts mentioned in this thread? This seems like a lower cost as opposed to replacing everything in the orginial mod. I have been waiting until I needed to do clutch work to do the 01 mod (I have a 00), but am tired of the grabby clutch.
Posted February 21, 2008 - 03:25 PM
Posted March 20, 2008 - 07:32 AM
Posted March 20, 2008 - 10:53 AM
I just did this 3 part mod last night and the chatter is gone....YES....but the clutch drags now. When I am in gear then pull in the clutch it still wants to go a little. Will this go away with time or do I need to install the other push rod?
Clutch drag is caused by 3 common things....
1. Notchy basket
2. Notchy boss
3. Cable adjustment
My guess is cable adjustment. You may have to adjust it at the actuator arm.
Posted March 20, 2008 - 12:58 PM
4. Add worn, warped plates to the list.
Clutch drag is caused by 3 common things....
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