Clutch fix 2000 yz426


30 replies to this topic
  • doitmerm

Posted February 06, 2008 - 02:45 PM

#1

I know this topic has been gone over at great length on TT I have read a lot of them. Sorry to bring it back up ,but am I new here. I have owned my bike for only a short while and after reading the posts about the clutch fiix my bike seems to have all the symptoms needed for the upgrade. Going through some old posts I found this post below. It is from a few years back so I want to know if these are still all parts needed for the update and if the instrcutions Cowboyona426 gave are correct? Also, would I follow the 2000 manual or 2001? I think 2001. Instead of reusing the friction and clutch plates I will order all new ones. Should I order an 01' clutch arm? I have never broken down a clutch before, but after reading the manual it seems like something I can handle. Also, what are some specific signs for needing a new basket or clutch boss. Thanks for the help.

Here's the post from cowboyona426:

Just wanted to let you guys know that I rode the 426 for the first time today since doing the 01 clutch fix- this mod is definitely worth it! No more squeal, just hook up and go. Two things I noticed though- (1) the clutch pull seems stiffer, even with the longer 00 arm still installed, and (2) the engagement seems to be closer to the bars than before. This is a very easy mod to do.

Here are the needed parts:
5JG-16321-00-00 PLATE, FRICTION
5JG-16383-00-00 SPRING, CLUTCH BOSS
5JG-16384-00-00 PLATE, SEAT
93511-32027-00 BEARING, BALL (PUSH ROD ASSY.)
5JG-16356-00-00 ROD, PUSH 1
5JG-16357-10-00 ROD, PUSH 2
5JG-15453-00-00 GASKET, CLUTCH COVER
Note: You only need the clutch cover gasket if you tear yours removing the cover. If you don't tear the gasket, you don't need to replace it.

Here's the steps:

1. Drain the oil from the engine and the frame.
2. Pull the clutch cover- removing the rear brake will make it easier to get all the clutch cover bolts out. Because all the bolts are different lengths, leave them in the holes in the cover when you pull the cover. Pull the cover off evenly and you shouldn't have any problems with tearing the gasket, so you can reuse it.
3. Remove the pressure plate. The short pushrod will probably stick to the pressure plate, FYI.
4. Pull out all the clutch plates. Remember to keep them in order! I used two picks to help me get all the plates out.
5. Pull the long pushrod from the center of the shaft the clutch hub is mounted on.
6. Pour some clean oil in the clutch cover, and soak the new plate in the oil for 5-10 minutes.
7. Install the flat base plate.
8. Install the spring plate- make sure the side marked "OUT" faces toward the outside of the engine.
9. Install the new clutch plate.
10. Install all the old plates, taking out the innermost plate. I dipped each plate in the oil before installing them to help use some of it up.
11. Install the new long pushrod in the tranny shaft- make sure the end with the tapered end goes to the inside of the motor.
12. Install the short pushrod with the ball bearing inside.
13. Install the pressure plate.
14. Install the clutch cover- make sure you dump the oil out first!

That's it! It is a really simple mod. Some people have been installing the 01 clutch arm too- I didn't. If you do, it is supposed to move the engagement point of the clutch farther from the bars. Also, you will have to readjust the freeplay in the lever, because installing the 01 parts creates a lot of slack in the cable.
I'm not sure how much all the parts cost, because I managed to score them all for free from moto2000- thank you moto2000! I don't have the number for the 01 clutch arm, but your dealer should be able to find it easy enough. If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.

  • 642MX

Posted February 06, 2008 - 04:23 PM

#2

The only parts you need are: the first friction plate, the boss spring and boss washer from a 2001 model.

You'll have to adjust the cable slack once you get the install done.

  • dejavudarrell

Posted February 06, 2008 - 04:38 PM

#3

So you only need three parts for upgrade?

  • 642MX

Posted February 06, 2008 - 06:17 PM

#4

So you only need three parts for upgrade?


Yes. I helped a fellow TTer do the mod last summer. It works great, the grabby clutch is gone and its holding up fine.

  • doitmerm

Posted February 06, 2008 - 07:51 PM

#5

I may sound ignorant, but is the boss washer actually part #5jG-16384-00-00 PLATE, SEAT from the parts list on original post????

  • 642MX

Posted February 06, 2008 - 08:00 PM

#6

I may sound ignorant, but is the boss washer actually part #5jG-16384-00-00 PLATE, SEAT from the parts list on original post????


Yes.


You need these 3 part numbers:

5JG-16321-00-00 Friction plate

5JG-16383-00-00 spring

5JG-16384-00-00 washer

  • doitmerm

Posted February 06, 2008 - 08:40 PM

#7

Thanks 642mx. I am going to give it a go.

  • doitmerm

Posted February 06, 2008 - 08:53 PM

#8

One more thing I would like to get straight. When installing the new friction plate it actually replaces the old innermost friction plate. Just change the old for the new and the rest remain the same. Right?

  • 642MX

Posted February 07, 2008 - 09:01 PM

#9

One more thing I would like to get straight. When installing the new friction plate it actually replaces the old innermost friction plate. Just change the old for the new and the rest remain the same. Right?


correct.

  • gbalias

Posted February 07, 2008 - 09:21 PM

#10

this is a great mod/fix. i just completed mine a few weeks ago on my 426 Supermoto. the grabby clutch was killing my starts....i was losing 5-7 positions within 30yds of the starting grid cause i had to feather it so much.

did the upgrade and got a whole new set of plates, also installed an MSR ProRaptor lever/perch and now it feels like my GF's 125 clutch. havent had it on the track yet......but i can already feel a huuuge difference in clutch action.

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  • dejavudarrell

Posted February 15, 2008 - 05:34 PM

#11

I love my 2000 426 but today at Carnegie it was so grabby today, I will do this 3 part mod this week.

  • jeeper33

Posted February 20, 2008 - 09:22 PM

#12

Hey guys -
I'm interested to see how this turns out for the few of you that are just doing it. (dejavudarrell) I had to rebuild my clutch last year because the innerhub spun free of its toothed portion...anyways, i dont notice any grabbing, but i do certainly notice a squel when i launch hard. And it is really annoying. I can only imagine the stress that must be going on inside the clutch to make that noise, and as such, i don't do any hard launches. If this fix is really worth it, I think I just may be placing an order for some parts soon.

~jeep

  • bleetham

Posted February 21, 2008 - 09:40 AM

#13

I lived with the grabby clutch thing for the last year, bought the parts at the TT store and did the upgrade two weeks ago. It was really easy, took me about 20 minutes. I didn't even drain the oil, just layed the bike on it's side. The clutch is now very smooth, only down side is that it seems a little stiffer and it engages the clutch lever very close to the grip instead of near the end of the lever stroke. I'm kicking myself for waiting so long, especially since now I'm selling the bike.

  • gbalias

Posted February 21, 2008 - 10:10 AM

#14

you adjust the engagement point by adjusting the cable at the engine side.

  • grayracer513

Posted February 21, 2008 - 02:45 PM

#15

you adjust the engagement point by adjusting the cable at the engine side.

No adjustment of the engagement point can be made with the cable except within the limits of the minimum free travel at the one hand, and the point at which the clutch has been pulled far enough to release at the other. This is because the cable adjuster at either end cannot affect the amount the internal push rod travels in relation to the amount of lever travel. That is to say that the point at which the clutch engages and releases is not adjustable independently of cable free play.

That being said, a problem of early engagement/late release can be caused by excessive free play at the cable. If your cable is too loose, tightening it will alleviate some of what is complained about here, but if it's already at the minimum, you can't change it.

It is normal to expect the catch/release point to change like this with the addition of the boss spring.

  • King_Air

Posted February 21, 2008 - 03:14 PM

#16

Gray,
What is your opinion of doing this mod using only the 3 parts mentioned in this thread? This seems like a lower cost as opposed to replacing everything in the orginial mod. I have been waiting until I needed to do clutch work to do the 01 mod (I have a 00), but am tired of the grabby clutch.

Thanks

  • grayracer513

Posted February 21, 2008 - 03:25 PM

#17

If your clutch plates are in good condition, there is no need to switch them out except for the one at the bottom. The split push rod with the ball is an upgeade in its own right, and not actually required in any case.

  • Kylelind

Posted March 20, 2008 - 07:32 AM

#18

I just did this 3 part mod last night and the chatter is gone....YES....but the clutch drags now. When I am in gear then pull in the clutch it still wants to go a little. Will this go away with time or do I need to install the other push rod?

  • 642MX

Posted March 20, 2008 - 10:53 AM

#19

I just did this 3 part mod last night and the chatter is gone....YES....but the clutch drags now. When I am in gear then pull in the clutch it still wants to go a little. Will this go away with time or do I need to install the other push rod?


Clutch drag is caused by 3 common things....

1. Notchy basket
2. Notchy boss
3. Cable adjustment

My guess is cable adjustment. You may have to adjust it at the actuator arm.

  • grayracer513

Posted March 20, 2008 - 12:58 PM

#20

Clutch drag is caused by 3 common things....

4. Add worn, warped plates to the list.





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