Valve adjust, quick question


14 replies to this topic
  • zimak

Posted February 03, 2008 - 12:33 PM

#1

Ok just checked them for the first time.
Ex was .20
In was .00 (well .03 wouldnt fit)...no wonder it was so hard to start.

Ok so when I adjusted the intake I made it so that:



.13 fit loose
.15 fit snug
.18 didnt fit

Was that right or should .15 fit loose and .18 go in with some force?

  • martinfan30

Posted February 03, 2008 - 01:14 PM

#2

I always use the spec'd feeler to slide in with SLIGHT resistance.

Its best to err on the loose side.


Old saying...

If you dont hear 'em, you'll burn 'em!

  • hondacrf150f1

Posted February 03, 2008 - 03:07 PM

#3

Ok just checked them for the first time.
Ex was .20
In was .00 (well .03 wouldnt fit)...no wonder it was so hard to start.

Ok so when I adjusted the intake I made it so that:

.13 fit loose
.15 fit snug
.18 didnt fit

Was that right or should .15 fit loose and .18 go in with some force?


you shouldnt need a lota force, as your pulling out there should be some friction, like just enough to hear them scraping together.

  • tgstoken

Posted February 03, 2008 - 03:30 PM

#4

Slappy valves are happy valves.

  • scalejockey

Posted February 03, 2008 - 07:46 PM

#5

Learned in the official Honda school.(years back).... VERY light resistance.
..Like MF30 says..

  • resurrection

Posted February 03, 2008 - 08:44 PM

#6

Did any of you read keven Camron in cycle world two months ago .
He talks of the cam lobs ability to open AND close smoothly .
If there's to much clearance the spring will slam the valve closed instead of letting the cam lob softly, let it seat w/constant spring load.This impact is not good.
These clearence #'s are set cold because thermal expantion will have them virtualy size to size (zero) allowing this smooth close I spoke of.

This all being true, loose is still the safer bet.If you wont to get carried away. Check it hot .you should still have maybe .001/.002 clearence.
if its more readjust when cold alittle tighter.

  • scalejockey

Posted February 04, 2008 - 05:48 AM

#7

On the 650r you'll know when they are a little too tight.It will be SOB to start when it's hot.

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  • zimak

Posted February 04, 2008 - 06:34 AM

#8

On the 650r you'll know when they are a little too tight.It will be SOB to start when it's hot.


Yup...thats how I knew it was time for a valve check.

Man...that was such a pain in the ass when hot.

  • Motosprtman

Posted February 04, 2008 - 11:20 AM

#9

I just lit off an old school XL250 yesterday after a top end job, that included a new head, valves, seals, piston and rings, set the vales per spec while motor was still on the bench - with a very slight resistance felt and ya know what, they make more noise than a 10 piece band. Shoulda followed my instinct as before and run em down to nothing (not hammered tight - just almost no resistance) and then they run fine.

  • martinfan30

Posted February 04, 2008 - 11:29 AM

#10

Are you talking about zero clearance???

I wouldnt recomend that.

  • Denn10

Posted February 04, 2008 - 11:48 AM

#11

if you run valves at .000 when cold your asking for trouble down the road, good advice.............adjust valves to manufacturer specs cold! Thats all ill say.

  • Motosprtman

Posted February 04, 2008 - 12:17 PM

#12

Mine get set at .002 intake and .004 exhaust, I set em just a tad tighter than that. But then again - I have set em and locked the - jam nut and open it up to readjust afterrunning only to find a locknut misiing and floating around in the top of the head.

  • resurrection

Posted February 04, 2008 - 03:09 PM

#13

I had a lock nut destroy a GS700 top end ,broke chain and the hole ball of wax.
So much for making a couple bucks on a valve job.OUCH.

  • zimak

Posted February 05, 2008 - 11:05 AM

#14

Ok readjusted and loosened them just a bit. Now I can hear them slapping.

This is what I want correct?

  • Motosprtman

Posted February 05, 2008 - 11:37 AM

#15

a little ticking is okay yes.





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