YZ Clutch Lever Easy pull Mod



70 replies to this topic
  • Mbiker_101

Posted May 25, 2008 - 10:27 AM

#41

Matt, your diagrams are not accurate, the fulcrum does move down slightly, and just if you were wondering, I have do have a mechanical engineering degree.

And do what christ says and just try it, if you don't think it makes a difference then put it back in the original hole, no harm no foul. I didn't invent the mod just documented how to make the changes.

  • yz400fdude

Posted May 25, 2008 - 11:33 AM

#42

Well this mod wont work for my lever. What would you all recommend? A raptor lever? The pull on the clutch right now is quite ridiculous.

  • USED YZ426F

Posted May 25, 2008 - 12:51 PM

#43

When was the last time you cleaned and lubed your cable?

The lever mod helped my 426, but spending some quality time cleaning and lubing my old cable made a HUGE difference in the feel.

  • yz400fdude

Posted May 25, 2008 - 03:46 PM

#44

Its probably been a couple years :thumbsup: How do you clean and lube your cables? Mine usually don't last this long.

  • Mbiker_101

Posted May 25, 2008 - 09:21 PM

#45

Yes, the MSR raptor lever assembly does the exact same thing. The lever is a two finger model so if you don't like two finger levers then you may want to try to extend the arm at the clutch side of the cable. I think 5mm is the standard but you have to take off the clutch arm and have it custom welded.

  • yz400fdude

Posted May 25, 2008 - 11:17 PM

#46

I ride 2 finger clutch so that should be perfect.

  • USED YZ426F

Posted May 26, 2008 - 04:44 AM

#47

Its probably been a couple years :thumbsup: How do you clean and lube your cables? Mine usually don't last this long.


I take mine off and soak them in solvent (mineral spirits) overnight. Then work the cable back and forth until it slides smooth and free. Soak in solvent for another hour or so and repeat working the cable.

Wipe it clean and hang it up until it dries out (usually over night). Then give it a shot of cable lube (not WD-40) and reinstall. Always "smooth as butter" when I get done.

I do mine during winter maintenance and during the season if it seems stiff.

  • yz400fdude

Posted February 14, 2009 - 10:50 AM

#48

Well I just did this to my new '07's clutch lever and it did lighten the clutch pull a little bit. I can get away with using one finger now.

  • Clb33fyxj

Posted March 30, 2009 - 03:51 PM

#49

i just this mod on the womans xr100 and it worked great! i would say that it cut the pull weight is half. awesome!

  • Shawn250

Posted April 03, 2009 - 02:31 AM

#50

Was sceptical but tried it anyway and am amazed how easy the clutch is now , Did find that you loose some clutch pull , but can still stop the bike with the clutch pulled against my other fingers and it wont stall and will idle .

Will test it this weekend properly .

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  • rufusz

Posted June 19, 2009 - 03:37 AM

#51

My clutch cable snapped because of this mod, so I don't really recommend it. I've found out that I've overtightened my clutch springs, and that's why it was harden than usual.
Also got a set of ASV levers, nice, seems like it's lighter to pull..

  • roylo

Posted June 19, 2009 - 04:34 AM

#52

Nah. All these mods and levers that change the leverage ratio to get the clutch pull easier come at a cost. More lever movement to get the same clutch engagement. I suppose if you dont mind the extra lever movement then go for it but I cant stand it to be honest and if it was the way to do it the factories would make the ratio like that to start with.

The way to keep your clutch light as possible is to keep cable clean and lubed, replace when worn and maintain your basket and other inner components.

  • grayracer513

Posted June 19, 2009 - 08:02 AM

#53

I've found out that I've overtightened my clutch springs, and that's why it was harden than usual.

Not possible. The clutch spring retainer bolts are run down until they bottom out against the pegs in the boss, so the torque applied to the nut doesn't change the compressed height of the spring.

  • yz400fdude

Posted June 19, 2009 - 08:48 AM

#54

My bike kept dying when I would stop because the clutch wasn't releasing all the way. So I had to put the cable back in the stock location. If I bent the lever out some more it would work fine though, and it lightened the pull a lot.

  • tinbanger

Posted April 16, 2011 - 07:10 PM

#55

I don't get this at all, mechanically speaking, it makes no sense whatsoever. Your leverage from the pivot point on the lever is not related to where the cable fastens (hole) it's related to where the cable exists the lever, since the exit location did not change, outside of using up a bit of extra cable inside the lever before the exit point, you changed absolutely nothing.
I believe what you did manage to accomplish (and this relates to you feeling a smoother/easier clutch pull) is that you offset your cable wear points inside the cable shield, likely offsetting some points that were binding between the cable and the sleeve due to pulling the cable back into the lever further. I believe replacing your cable would have a bigger impact.

Posted Image


Matt, your diagrams are not accurate, the fulcrum does move down slightly, and just if you were wondering, I have do have a mechanical engineering degree.

And do what christ says and just try it, if you don't think it makes a difference then put it back in the original hole, no harm no foul. I didn't invent the mod just documented how to make the changes.


i think that matt is right, and the solution to the problem would be to take a .040 cut-off wheel on a grinder and deepen the grove that the cable enters the lever, when you do that it will allow the cable to have a more straight shot to the new lever and REALLY allow the advantage to coma alive.

  • yz400fdude

Posted April 16, 2011 - 08:26 PM

#56

Did any of the rest of you have problems with not getting enough clutch pull after the mod to fully disengage the clutch? I couldn't get it to work on my 450, I'll try it on my yz250 this weekend.

  • grayracer513

Posted April 16, 2011 - 09:14 PM

#57

i think that matt is right, and the solution to the problem would be to take a .040 cut-off wheel on a grinder and deepen the grove that the cable enters the lever, when you do that it will allow the cable to have a more straight shot to the new lever and REALLY allow the advantage to coma alive.

No, Matt's wrong. The factors affecting leverage are the distance of the load, in this case the point at which the cable attaches to the lever, to the fulcrum (pivot) vs. the distance between the force (your fingers) and the lever. If you move the cable closer to the pivot, or make the lever longer, you make the pull easier. The fact that the cable runs out and around a slight angle has nothing to do with leverage here any more than the 90 degree turn the throttle cables make.

  • tinbanger

Posted April 17, 2011 - 07:28 AM

#58

No, Matt's wrong. The factors affecting leverage are the distance of the load, in this case the point at which the cable attaches to the lever, to the fulcrum (pivot) vs. the distance between the force (your fingers) and the lever. If you move the cable closer to the pivot, or make the lever longer, you make the pull easier. The fact that the cable runs out and around a slight angle has nothing to do with leverage here any more than the 90 degree turn the throttle cables make.



it just seems to me that the cable is still pulling from the same exit point on the lever as if it were in its original hole, so unless you relocate the cable the amount of force required is still the same.

answer me this, if you relocated the point at which the cable end attaches 4' out in front of the lever and still ran the cable through the same entrance point on the lever, would i not be able to pull the lever be cause we i had moved the attachment point out. my point is once you do the mod, all of the force being applied is on the point where the cable bends around the old hole in the lever, hence the instances of people breaking their cables after performing this mod. if all of the force were directly on the cable end then they would not have broken cables, the cable needs to have a straight shot out of the lever to fully take advantage of the mod.

but that's just the way i see it. i'll try it later to day and get back to you all.

here is a product that does exactly what we are trying to do and if you read the add the cable adjuster pivots to the diff angles created by moving the cable end closer to you, take a min a read/ study it, there are two pics to look at.

http://pitposse.com/ezpu3pocllep.html

  • grayracer513

Posted April 17, 2011 - 08:53 AM

#59

answer me this, if you relocated the point at which the cable end attaches 4' out in front of the lever and still ran the cable through the same entrance point on the lever, would i not be able to pull the lever be cause we i had moved the attachment point out.

Yes, if you increase the distance between the cable anchor point and the pivot you will increase the difficulty of pulling the lever, regardless of where the cable runs out of the assembly.

From a practical standpoint, forcing the cable to pull around something like that causes additional friction and drag whether the leverage is increased or decreased. In the Pit Posse lever, the stop for the cable pivots to allow the cable to run straight from any of the three holes.

The truth is that the cable housing stop point has nothing whatever to do with leverage. Imagine if it were a rod operated brake; the same principals apply.

http://www.exrx.net/...ml#anchor101962

  • tinbanger

Posted April 17, 2011 - 09:35 AM

#60

Yes, if you increase the distance between the cable anchor point and the pivot you will increase the difficulty of pulling the lever, regardless of where the cable runs out of the assembly.

From a practical standpoint, forcing the cable to pull around something like that causes additional friction and drag whether the leverage is increased or decreased. In the Pit Posse lever, the stop for the cable pivots to allow the cable to run straight from any of the three holes.

The truth is that the cable housing stop point has nothing whatever to do with leverage. Imagine if it were a rod operated brake; the same principals apply.

http://www.exrx.net/...ml#anchor101962


so why do they even bother cutting the slot to give it a straight pull and add the pivoting adjuster?





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