YZ Clutch Lever Easy pull Mod

70 replies to this topic
  • Mbiker_101

Posted April 14, 2008 - 10:24 AM


JD, absolutely it fully disengages and you hardly notice a difference in how far you pull. Like a said in an earlier post I can fully disengage the clutch with two fingers and not hit my knuckles. Works great, give it a try, if you don't like the easier pull then just put the cable back in the original hole.

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted April 14, 2008 - 02:48 PM


Mbiker101 is the one who posted the 1/4 turn throttle mod and described whith pic's on how to do it. The mod worked great!!! and saved me a arm full of turn. This clutch lever mod is totally different than the throttle mod (I have not done it yet or believe will have to) But if I ever need to do it I will trust it because comeing from Mbiker I know it would be a good mod! Give it a try and Iam sure you will be pleased.


Posted April 14, 2008 - 04:36 PM


just did this to the 426, but I have a concern. I tired to ride it with out adjusting the cable and I had to pull the lever all the way to the grip to fully disengage the clutch. So I adjusted the cable, but now I don't have any play in the lever. Is this right?

  • grayracer513

Posted April 14, 2008 - 06:06 PM


So I adjusted the cable, but now I don't have any play in the lever. Is this right?

No, it's not.

  • Mbiker_101

Posted April 14, 2008 - 08:26 PM


Thanks Captain, and yes, you will have to do this mod as well.

And you should have a little play in the lever, but if you drill the hole close to the size of the cable there will not be as much cable slop as the stock arm. If that makes sense? Check to see if you have play near the clutch arm?

The reason there should be play is to make sure you have fully engaged the clutch and it does not slip. Mine doesn't have much slop because the tolerances are pretty close.

  • grayracer513

Posted April 15, 2008 - 05:45 AM


Not every 426 clutch will disengage completely with this setup. In particular, those modified with '01 parts, or for that matter, stock '01-'02 models may have trouble with it because of the action of the boss spring, which was intended to lengthen the travel from engaged to disengaged. If the clutch won't release without eliminating the free play, you can try removing the boss spring from the clutch stack, but you may then find the clutch becomes grabby and abrupt.

Captain Knobby's '06 will not have to have this mod done; it's a legitimate two finger clutch as is, even for an old guy like me.

This is a well done approach to reducing clutch pull, but will only work if your clutch releases cleanly in about the first 60% of travel as is. Another thing that has been done for years is to use Honda CR lever blades. These fit the perch and change the leverage by a smaller amount than done here, and may work in cases where the modded lever won't disengage the clutch completely.

It's a good little mod, but it may not work for everyone who tries it. Then again, as 101 said, you can simply revert to the original cable pocket and not be out anything but time if it doesn't.

  • 896kawirider

Posted May 11, 2008 - 08:22 PM


Hey guys, had some clutch problems and so i tried this out this past week. WOW. Definitly recommend it. I did it on an 06 kawi 250f and it is pretty amazing. One thing i do recommend, where the cable comes out the perch, you might need to file it to the shape of the cable. My cable was rubbing on it, but once you file it down you should be good to go. Great mod. Ill post some pics of it asap just to show how i did it.

  • KillerHiller

Posted May 12, 2008 - 06:07 AM


I 've been using this mod for years on various bikes with great results and no problems.


  • steam

Posted May 14, 2008 - 03:08 PM


I did the lever mod on my 00' 426 and it felt like I gained about 20%. Then I extended the actuator arm by 5mm. I'm estimating the overall pull effort is down 50%.

These are great mods that are really easy to do.

  • yz400fdude

Posted May 19, 2008 - 10:55 AM


I was just complaining this weekend to a friend about how stiff my clutch was. This is great. I'll give it a try tonight. I'm a 2 finger clutch and a 1 finger brake rider so this will help me greatly. Steam, How did you extend the actuator arm?

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  • steam

Posted May 20, 2008 - 06:40 AM


You simply take out the small bolt along with the spring assembly where the clutch cable conects to the arm. Then you take out your clutch plates etc.. on the other side of the engine. Make sure to keep the bolts in the clutch cover plate as they are all different lengths. Once the clutch is appart you can go back to the arm and pull it up and out of the hole.

The next step is getting a small piece of metal added to extend the overall length of the arm. I simply took mine to a welder and he did the work. I extended the arm 5mm and it seems to work fine.

  • yz400fdude

Posted May 20, 2008 - 07:40 AM


Thanks for the info Steam. I didn't get to try the clutch lever mod yet but I'm going to leave work early today and try it out.

  • M_Xrider

Posted May 20, 2008 - 07:59 AM


I know how the leverage make the pull easier but how do you route the cable?? like this? Posted Image and if so would the cable tear?

  • USED YZ426F

Posted May 20, 2008 - 05:22 PM


That looks about right. Of course the cable won't have that sharp of an angle in it when installed in the finished lever.

This mod will work with any bike that has enough metal on the clutch lever to drill the second hole.

Don't forget to spend the time to clean and lubricate the cable while you are doing this mod for the maximum effect.

  • yz400fdude

Posted May 21, 2008 - 05:38 PM


Unfortunately from looking at my clutch lever on my yz400f this mod will not work. It seems like there is not enough room for a 2nd hole like on the yz426 lever.

Posted Image

  • matt4x4

Posted May 22, 2008 - 04:50 AM


I don't get this at all, mechanically speaking, it makes no sense whatsoever. Your leverage from the pivot point on the lever is not related to where the cable fastens (hole) it's related to where the cable exists the lever, since the exit location did not change, outside of using up a bit of extra cable inside the lever before the exit point, you changed absolutely nothing.
I believe what you did manage to accomplish (and this relates to you feeling a smoother/easier clutch pull) is that you offset your cable wear points inside the cable shield, likely offsetting some points that were binding between the cable and the sleeve due to pulling the cable back into the lever further. I believe replacing your cable would have a bigger impact.

Posted Image

  • christ

Posted May 22, 2008 - 05:32 AM


Hey Matt be like me "don't need to know why it works,just that it doe's".

Regards Chris.

  • steam

Posted May 23, 2008 - 06:26 AM


The diagram above shows the cable going at a right angle almost like a kink in the line??? When I did my modification I filed the front slot down a bit so that the cable exits the lever at a straight angle to the perch. So in fact the only thing you are changing is the distance the cable is to your bars. I don't pretend to understand physics but I do know that the modification works.

  • jcham33

Posted May 23, 2008 - 03:00 PM


wow what a difference

  • Ztard

Posted May 23, 2008 - 03:20 PM


I did this earlier in the year........busted first cable last weekend:foul: While I agree the lever pull is/was lighter. Not riding is not an option for me.the cablr that broke was a T2 Motion pro unit. and yes I filed down the rough edges.

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