Let's try and get a great list of 2008 specific potential issues, fixes and setup advice.
We could take the current list and edit for our 08 bikes or come up with a totally new one.  I'll start below by searching the forum and placing them here.
Things to add could be the exhaust heat shield fix options, sidestand fixes, power up kit and FI tuning options and problems that come up.  For example, my 08 TE450 was leaking coolant from around where the overflow cannister connects to the little black hose.  I noticed no hose clamp on the fitting and after adding a $.97 clamp it was fixed.  By having all these little problems and fixes in one area it would help us all to catch them in the garage rather than on the trail.  If anyone has access to Service Bulletins, please post them up so we can add to the list

Reported issues, quick fixes and setup tips:
Exhaust melting the airbox- Wrap header tape on pipe or heat the close area with a torch and hammer it in and or place heat shield on airbox

Battery being crushed by seat- http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=599788
Sidestand barely holds up the bike- supposed warranty item
Routing of rear brake line-
Quick KPH to MPH fix with two hands- switch on the ignition while holding the select button and right away the mph select should appear.
Someone said that Husky is going to warranty the following:
New rear guard (angle and height of battery ledge has been changed)
New sidestand -
Exhaust Shield
And for those of you that run the Arrow Pipe & no Lambda Sensor - check the TPS, it runs rich as the base idle V setting is incorrect.
More torque & cleaner running with the DB Killer in also.If you haven`t got the base idle spot on, (dealers have the software to check TPS Idle position) it will run like a badly jetted 2 stroke in the tight
Wiring Harness Makeover    http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=602913
Tuning the new power up kit:http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=602352

I was thinking the same thing.  I'm no programmer but perhaps a spreadsheet of year, model and known issues / improvements.  The stickies are good but take that one step further.

How would a spread sheet work for bike info?  I'm a bit of a 20th Century kind of guy, so be patient.
Norman

Perhaps models in the rows and known issues across the top as columns.  It could really be a modified version of the 'must do' sticky.  Think of it as a quick reference chart...

That would be cool.

Years and Problems on a graph.  It could be a trouble list for newbies.   Year listed at the top and have the possible troubles and fixes listed below.  Breaking into sections that would have a numbered link to docummented fix.  Electrical, Engine, Controls, ect could have 20 links to other threads that discussed the issue already.  

I used to work for a company called MPIFIX, they are docummenting test and fix information for vehicles.  It is a pretty neat way that you can type radiator, or fuel pump and get fix information for that specific vehicle.  They are selling this information to local auto repair shops that are looking for a edge on repairing cars/ trucks quicker. I have been thinking that it is a shame that someone doesn't do that for motorcycles.  We as motorcycle owners are always coming up solutions or troubleshooting problems.

Organizing information in an easy to understand easy to read format is always a good thing, and that was the entire reason we got a moderator in the first place.

The options of how to do organize things on TT is fairly limited.  Took a long long time to come up with a way to stuff a bunch of good stuff in the Important Information sticky for instance, and it is not easy to maintain.

Open threads are always problematic cause people like to be helpful and post things they think are important, but may only be important for a short time - "when will the bikes get here" is one example - we may not want to wade through that information a year from now.

As far as an excel spread sheet - yes that would be cool but it would show up as a link or attachment.  Links & attachments are rarely followed compared to in-line images, got a hard time getting people to simply scan the Important Information sticky for instance and those are almost all in-line pictures. Guess what I'm saying is to have information be useful an image of the spreadsheet might be a good way to present it.

I knew the 2008 bike sticky would get cluttered and needs some house cleaning.  This thread may get cluttered as well.  The only option that I can see is periodic clean up / summary of the info put in the locked Important Info  sticky.  Of course there can be a link to an open thread.

Certainly sounds better to me doing it that way as opposed to the super long sticky open threads with 100's of posts that some of the other sections of TT has.

This is an interim stage we are in regarding the 2008 bikes and it will be a long time before things get sorted out/settled down.  No one esp me wants to loose good info so it is a bit tricky at this point cause the info is not ready to be summarized and it would be a full time job to keep writing & re-writing summaries.

I'll stick this thread for the time being, not sure how long.  If anyone wants to put up a link to the 2 break in threads that I lost track of that would be great.

Here is picture of the throttle stop plate. You have to remove both cables from the throttle grip, remove cables from the throttle body bracket and then the 2 screws that hold the stop plate, reassemble.

Nice pics, good work

Sticky throttle today and a few times the motor stalled and did not want to idle while in super technical trials type muddy TN trails.  Perhaps the power up kit will solve this?

How many hours/miles do you have on it?

David

fairfaxbiker said:

fairfaxbiker said:

If you haven`t got the base idle spot on, (dealers have the software to check TPS Idle position) it will run like a badly jetted 2 stroke in the tight, i haven`t reset mine yet, and after putting the Arrow Muffler on, disconecting the  O2 sensor & putting in the Full Power adaptor, it gets MUCH WORSE.
I have ridden a correctly tuned bike & they are worlds apart, no hiccups at all.

fitness2go said:

I have about 5 hours on it now but all have been super tight muddy and slow.  I appreciated the comment about the factory idle setting and that once it is tuned it runs perfect.

I am picking up my txc510 sometime soon - Les @ LTR suspension reminded me to re-torque the bottom triple clamp bolts - he said they often come over-torqued - binding the fork internally and he notices some wear in this location when he tears the fork down.

jeff

Does anyone advise on specific gearing changes for tight woods and hills?

fairfaxbiker said:

Seems like that is personal preference to me.  I put a 12T CS on for a short time and found it 'interesting'.... (2006 TE250).

Do want to mention that the TE250 I saw at the dealer had a 50T rear, and the TE450/510 both had 47T.  Have not looked at the specs to see if the internal gearing is different though so that may be meaningless.  Did not check the CS on those bikes either.

Issue 1:  Exhaust pipe contacts air box and melts a hole in it.

Fix:  Factory solution is to just apply some aluminized heat shield.  This has proven to be inadequate.  
Remove the exhaust pipe.  To really fix this properly you’ll need to fabricate a small plate out of thin (16 gauge) stainless sheet metal about 2” x 3”. This will need to be bent to the same radius as the burned corner of the air box. Cut a piece of fiberglass reinforced heat shield slightly smaller than the piece of aluminum.  Apply a coating of high temperature silicon to the inside of the plate and the surface of the air box.  Put the heat shield on the plate.  Attach the plate to the air box using two stainless bolts with washers and lock nuts.

Wrapping the short portion of pipe in question with header wrap should really make this a bullet proof repair job.  You’ll need *** inches of *** wide header wrap and two hose clamps *** in diameter.  
Another solution to this problem is to heat with a torch the portion of the pipe that has made contact with the air box.  While it is red hot, use a ball peen hammer to modify the shape of the pipe so as not to touch the air box anymore.
It is likely that the ‘power up’ kit with its smaller, lighter exhaust will not have this problem.


Issue 2:  Seat pan rests on battery, not on frame cross member.  There is already one report of a cracked battery leaking acid.

Fix:  It is rumored that Husqvarna will be sending new battery perches to bike owners that will lower the battery.
In the meantime cut a piece of high-density rubber the same length and width as the frame cross member (about 3/4” x 6”).  It should be about 1/4” – 3/8” thick.  Glue or zip tie it to the cross member.  You may need to shape the rear edge to allow easier seat installation.



Issue 3:  Rear brake line contacts engine block causing chafing.

Fix:  You may need to loosen the banjo bolt that exits the rear brake master cylinder and rotate it to get a better bend.  Attach a zip tie to the vertical frame member to hold the brake line away from the block.



Issue 4:  KPH/MPH Switch.  The manual gives an improper procedure to make this change.

Fix:  With the ignition switched off, push and hold the select button on the instrument cluster.  Turn the ignition on and the mph option should appear.

All good info....!!!    Thanks!

Idont own a husky atm, but i may have a cheap solution for the airbox problem.

1. Shave some of the air box away where it is melting.
2. cut a thin piece a sheet metal to fit the opened shaved spot.
3. Wrap the piece of metal with some heat reflecting stuff.
4. Rivet or find some other way to attach it to the air box.


I hope u can understand what i mean.  I was just thinking that it is a long term fix, instead of a short term fix.

overloadtt said:

Hello again over there.

There is no problem with your TPS value. But there is a small problem with the feeback value in the   No 1 area, there is 3 different areas.  where "jetting"  can be adjusted. The value is around 108-112 %, should be 100%

Compared to a carburator it is  like you have one or two step to rich lowspeed jet.

It take around 5 min to adjust for a dealer with EFI software. Go to your dealer, i am pretty sure hi have a service messege from Husqvarna about this. I have.

Best regards Klas

Klas said:

Hi Klas,
          You are partially correct, the fix you speak of is in the Feedback Position No1 only, that alone however will not change or fully correct your TPS mV,(not sure of what you have rec`d, but that is our last setting) what mV are you ending up with in the TPS when set reset at Zero % throttle position?
we have been playing with combinations in the TPS ranges and instead of only scaling & moving the range, actually calibrating & expanding the range.
The voltage at selected Throttle Positions is crucial for Fuel Delivery %.
Also by re-positioning the throttle butterfly & then calibrating the range scale, have removed engine breaking substantially by keeping the throttle plate from closing, have also changed air by-pass volume.

I have also written in variable Injector Duty Cycle sensing from manifold pressure and have changed the Lambda connector resistance values also.
The gains are very impressive.