Scotts Damper settings

8 replies to this topic
  • FooBarr

Posted October 17, 2002 - 05:15 PM


What settings are all you guys using on your Scotts dampers? Just got my forward mount kit and am trying to figure where to start.
Need 3 settings:
Base control valve
High speed valve (leave it stock?)
sweep control valves
Riding style is semi-aggressive desert and this is my first ever damper.

  • qadsan

Posted October 17, 2002 - 05:52 PM


I'm happy just messing with the base valve and leaving the sweep and high speed valving in the stock setting. For tight mx stuff, I turn the base valve to the far left. For general trail riding I like it in the middle and when I'm flying across the desert or hitting a long series of whoops I turn it up to the max. I'm sure other people will use it differently, but that's what I'm happy with.

  • FooBarr

Posted October 17, 2002 - 09:04 PM


How do you route the clutch cable so it doesn't pinch between the post and the triple clamp :confused:during full deflection to the right? My cable is getting pinched unless I route under my rally guard, but then it's kind of kinked downward.

  • qadsan

Posted October 18, 2002 - 05:16 AM


When my wheel is turned at full deflection to the right, it's pretty much a straight shot from my clutch cable to guard on the inside of the frame with no binding whatsoever. Now when my wheel is turned fully to the left stop, then the clutch cable gets bent pretty good, but its not pinched solid to where its a problem. My clutch cable comes straight from clutch and winds its way down the left front of my tank and through the cable guard, etc. I'm on my way out in a few minutes, but if helps you I'll take a picture of mine and get it to you next week. If I forget to do this, please remind me or send me a PM.

One more thing you may want to check (unrelated to this issue) is to make sure that when you turn your wheel fully to the right or to the left that the lower triple clamp stop is coming in contact with the frame stop and that the damper is not stopping the wheel from turning to full lock. My damper was stopping the wheel from turning to full lock in one direction and it could have damaged the damper over time. Scotts told me to me I had to build up the frame stop to fix this, so I built up my frame tab with a welder as opposed to tapping and drilling a bolt and using the bolt head as the stop, which is what Scotts suggested to me. Since then, it appears you can adjust the damper stops to compensate for this from what I was told which is a lot easier, but its still something you should check out incase your damper is stopping the action.

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Posted October 18, 2002 - 07:03 AM


my pin is mounted in the dip stick hole, no problems with clutch but throttle cable was getting a little tug, so i took a zip tie made a loop around the pin and the cable not to tight of cours and now it works great! I am pretty new to dirt bikes and did not now about the triple clamp stops i will have to check it tonight!

  • loufish

Posted October 18, 2002 - 01:57 PM


I have the foreward mount, and also used a couple of zip-ties(PM me with an address, I'll e-mail photos) to keep the cable from getting pinched.
I used the stock settings that Scotts set-up for me, I live in Burbank, so I was able to spend some time up at Scotts to learn a little more about the settings. I've had the bike out once since mounting the stabilizer, and I'm very suprised how well it works, without the steering feeling stiff. As you decrease the low speed damping(CCW) the high speed increases, and the reverse is true, increasing low speed(CW)will decrease high speed. I was told when it's adjusted correctly, you really shouldn't feel anything different during normal steering

  • FooBarr

Posted October 18, 2002 - 03:24 PM


Hey Loufish,
Send me a picture of your damper. I sent you a PM with e-mail.

  • FooBarr

Posted October 22, 2002 - 05:29 PM


Well I took the bike out last weekend and beat it on some rocks and some desert whoops trying out the new Scotts damper. I didn't feel anything different at first, but then again it's been about 3 weeks since I've ridden. I started with the factory settings and left it there since I didn't have much time to try to dial it in.

There were a few rough hits on rocks and whoops that should a have resulted in a more violent reaction from the bike. It was kind of wierd, I'd take a rock or whoop out of balance and after the initial hit, nothing materialized. I guess it works and using a product like this, it is much more noticeable without it, versus with it.

  • Mainjet2001

Posted October 22, 2002 - 05:37 PM


A suggestion, run the damper for about 5 rides, then on the same day (on the 6th ride) you ride it, take it off in the middle of the ride and ride without it.
You will then be able to tell the difference and I believe you will be surprised.

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