Jetting Settings What do you guys think?
Posted October 17, 2002 - 12:32 PM
Posted October 17, 2002 - 12:42 PM
i would get the P needle. EKP for your altitude. or get the two and comeback and tell us the difference. your start height for the needle canonly be a guide and you should spare some time to actually tryu it up one and down one just to know the difference.
the 38 PJ should be matched to a smaller pilot air jet and i would recommend around a #60 and most definately not the #100 that's in it at present.
with any of these things, nobody here wants to give you lean settings and we have all sussed one thing and that is that a rich running bike will always run ok!
it's big and we look cool!
so it depends if you want to get off your bum and go to the edge with a bit of sweat. easy to yes, harder to do!
Posted October 18, 2002 - 04:39 AM
Thru fairly extensive testing out here, I've come to the conclusion that the following is about the best you can run:
38PJ/65PAJ/EKQ#2.5 or EJQ#2/145MJ/160MAJ
Given that it's almost winter now, you might consider going up a step on the MJ for each of the two above (to a 152 and 148 respectively), if you try these and they seem a bit too lean from midrange up. Also, the EKQ needle works pretty well down lower (5500-9000), but I've found that the EKP is just a bit better in that range. Your call...
Get the MJ's, 38PJ, and needles from the shop (and tell them they're idiots!)...and the MAJ and the adjustable pilot air screw/spring setup from Sudco.
Good luck...and dont take ANY jetting suggestions from the shops! They should know what they're doing, but they dont...
YZ Jet Needle Part #'s:
Posted October 18, 2002 - 05:07 AM
Posted October 18, 2002 - 06:18 AM
Get this, last Sunday was spent roosting Rabbit Valley, right around 4,500 feet, temps in the low 70's. Just went to a richer main last Friday (162) to get rid of a flat spot right at about 2/3 throttle. Seemed to work fine around Boulder (was only a short test ride), and damn if my bike wasn't running the BEST it has ever run, hard pull bottom to top, absolutely no poping or backfiring, it was perfect.
Last night, I took the time to wash all the mud off, being carful to cover the air box under the seat with a towel (air filter only mildly dirty, not enough to warrent cleaning just yet), plugged the exhaust and what not............Got on it after drying to spin it around the neighborhood for a final drying..........it ran like total sh%&, poping and backfiring, cutting out anywhere above 1/2 throttle, TOTAL sh%&. What is going on here?????????????? I'm only 1,000 feet higher here in Bldr, it was only 10 degrees cooler, this shouldn't have made my bike run that much worse.........right?? Just can't understand why won't my bike won't run the same weekend to weekend???
Guess I'm going back to my baseline recommendations from Hick, and see where I'm at. Does it seem like I'm missing something here ..........so confused.
And hey Jason I got your e-mail, sorry I have'nt written back just yet, I'll get back to you today, just been a little busy..........
Posted October 18, 2002 - 06:43 AM
Posted October 18, 2002 - 06:47 AM
Posted October 18, 2002 - 09:11 AM
You can see from my sig line that my jetting is a little richer than most. Excel gave me the same set up when I talked to them, but, when I tried it, it was really sluggish on the bottom and had monster hit on the last part of the throttle. It would almost yank the wheel up when you came into it. Climbing a hill was tricky, if you hit the powerband halfway up the hill you should probably be sitting on the front fender to keep the wheel down. Even now with my current jetting, I stay well forward on this beast. They (excel) mean well, but they don't ride this beast. When I told them what my jetting was they didn't believe the bike really ripped the way I said it did.
Overall, unless they ride the beast, I don't believe they can work on it.
What I would really like to do is get together with some other Denver area riders and see what their jetting produces compared to mine.
Posted October 18, 2002 - 11:06 AM
The pilot air screw/spring (referred to by many as the PAS) is an adjustable screw...which replaces your PAJ. Based on the # of turns out from fully seated, you get varying PAJ values. Dont have the chart in front of me, but for e.g. 1/2 turn out = 65 PAJ, etc. You'll never have to buy another PAJ again...as this replaces all PAJ's. It's only about $10...and well worth getting.
Could someone post the chart for PAS settings? Or Blue, you could just search on "pilot air screw" and look there. It's posted out here more than a few times...
Posted October 18, 2002 - 01:29 PM
Posted October 20, 2002 - 08:39 AM
Posted October 20, 2002 - 03:24 PM
Posted October 21, 2002 - 06:06 AM
Posted October 21, 2002 - 06:29 AM
My fix was easy enough, dropping the needle down one clip to lean my mid throttle range out - it went from one day to then next from working well to surging, popping and backfiring blue puffs of smoke and completely unrideable.
The one clip change worked absolute wonders for my problem but I think I will still be too close to the edge of the comfort zone so I'm gonna go for a different needle with more clip adjustments.
Maybe you are operating below the 'range' your carb settings run at. Kind of like a hi low on a stock chart which you dropped off of?
As for a remedy to your specific anguish, I'll reserve that for other more knowledgable people.
Posted October 21, 2002 - 08:28 AM
The settings in my sig are the only things I have changed. I am still running the stock needle and the stock air jets. I have not done the bk mod or the acv mod because I am happy with the way the bike runs right now. I am sure that doing these mods will make some changes but I would assume that they would be positive since you are still creating a better beast.
If you try it let me know what you think, positive or negative. I may have hit the nail on the head or I could be riding a much tamer beast than everyone else.
P.S. just got your pm this morning.