Dave’s Mods today Plus Smog Removal


6 replies to this topic
  • rontheman13

Posted January 19, 2008 - 10:01 AM

#1

I have a new 2007 XR650L and I will be doing the smog removal, uni-filter up grade, remove snorkel, add 3/8 ventilation to stock air box, 14 tooth front sprocket, and Dave’s mods. I received the jets today I purchased a #52 and #55 pilot jet and a #158 and #160 main jet. These are Keihin jets. I will be riding at 2000 to 3000 ASL with stock exhaust. Which combo should I try first? Also the plastic piece around the pilot from my understanding may need to be trimmed can anyone elaborate. Last question the main jets I received do not have the screw driver grove in them will a socket fit and how tight do you install them?
Thanks Ron

  • cleonard

Posted January 19, 2008 - 10:23 AM

#2

First have you gone to the home of Dave's mods?
http://www.4strokes....xr650lcarbmods/

That says 158/55 at sea level. It's a good starting point. The best thing to do is test with a few different ones and find what works best for you. Don't approach jetting with an expectation of getting it right the first time.

I wish that I knew what the torque should be and to have a tool with the capability of applying a precise low torque. I have had issues with both sides of the torque curve. Damaged threads from over torquing and jets that unscrewed themselves because they were too loose. I just do the tighten by feel method. The hard part is doing it the same every time.

  • rontheman13

Posted January 19, 2008 - 12:13 PM

#3

I was thinking I would start at 52/158 for the altitude difference. Do I need a special tool or will a small socket work on the main?

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  • husky123

Posted January 19, 2008 - 12:51 PM

#4

I was thinking I would start at 52/158 for the altitude difference. Do I need a special tool or will a small socket work on the main?


No the actual main uses a straight blade screw driver but you may need a small wrench (7 mm I think) to hold the emulsion tube that holds that main. This may or may not turn when you unscrew the may. You can do all the mods with the carb on the bike but if you're working on it for the first time I'd just go ahead and take the whole thing off. Good luck, it's relatively easy.

  • rontheman13

Posted January 19, 2008 - 09:47 PM

#5

Thanks all. I completed the smog removal,fabbed cover plates, drilled the slide, put in .03 washer, and reinstalled slide.I will put in the jets tommorow. Should I put in a UNI pod or UNI in the air box then remove snorkel? I'm also thinking about geting a small KandN for the crank case and keep it out of the air box, what do you think?

  • husky123

Posted January 20, 2008 - 05:03 AM

#6

Thanks all. I completed the smog removal,fabbed cover plates, drilled the slide, put in .03 washer, and reinstalled slide.I will put in the jets tommorow. Should I put in a UNI pod or UNI in the air box then remove snorkel? I'm also thinking about geting a small KandN for the crank case and keep it out of the air box, what do you think?


Personally I'd go with the UNI in the airbox and desnorkle. But I ride it in the dirt. If you are going to put a filter on the crankcase breather just make sure you keep it up high if you plan on going through any deep water.

  • martinfan30

Posted January 20, 2008 - 09:03 AM

#7

Thanks all. I completed the smog removal,fabbed cover plates, drilled the slide, put in .03 washer, and reinstalled slide.I will put in the jets tommorow. Should I put in a UNI pod or UNI in the air box then remove snorkel? I'm also thinking about geting a small KandN for the crank case and keep it out of the air box, what do you think?


I would recomend starting at 158/55 for your elevation. I run a UNI pod filter only because of my battery box removal/battery relocation. Also run a FCR. The stock CV carb doesnt like the pod's. Hard to get jetted to eliminate the 1/3 throttle hesitation.

I also use a K&N crankcase breather up by the rear tank mount. It's the ONLY time I ever use K&N.





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