2001 CR250 Mods


28 replies to this topic
  • calviper7

Posted January 16, 2008 - 01:52 PM

#1

I just bought a 2001 CR250 and I was wondering if any body had any tips or opinions on what I should get to make this thing rip :banghead:

  • ChrisLuce

Posted January 16, 2008 - 02:03 PM

#2

Here is a picture of my sons 2001 CR 250R. We have replaced almost everything.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Weisco Piston, Boysen Reeds, Renthal Sprocket, ASV Levers, Pro Taper Contour Bars, FMF Gnarley Pipe, FMF Turbine Core 2 Muffler, New Break Pads (A MUST), All New Plastics & Graphics, DID Gold Chain, IMS Foorpegs, New Rear Tire, Power Sport Plate Backgrounds, etc

  • hawaiidirtrider

Posted January 16, 2008 - 05:02 PM

#3

Looks Great!!! you don't need anything but if I would do anything I would get springs for your sons weight front and back first and a revalve later. It is good to ride it the way it is to know how much better it will be when you get a revalve. I got a lot of info at the RACEtech website but I am sure you can get it other places too. When I got my racetech revalve and springs for my weight it was like riding a new bike. Is this for motocross or moto/trail ? You can look at my 01' for different ideas but my bike is set up for trail/hare scramble.

Really it looks set up though. The best thing is to ride it!!!!!!!!
Your son must be stoked!!!
What a nice Dad!!! You can be my dad and redo my bike if you want!!

  • hawaiidirtrider

Posted January 16, 2008 - 06:37 PM

#4

I went looking in my notes. I have a zip up binder with a log and settings for my bike . I don't remember what issue it was but I have a faded copy of set up secrets from mxaction for the 2001 cr 250 .

The article is called:

"SETUP SECRETS: WHAT HONDA DIDN'T TELL YOU ABOUT THE CR250"

It must have been early to mid 2001 so take it for what it is worth. I wont put everything down. Some things are kinda common sense and are in your manual.

Jetting: Run a 430 main jet, H176 needle in the second clip positio, 32. pilot and set the air screw at 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns out. This jetting replaces the stock 420 main, H173 needle and 35 pilot . Inspect the routing of the throttle cable before removing the carburetor. Be sure to route the cable the same way after jetting.

HPP valve: If your bike is sluggish on eitherend of the powerband, suspect a gummy HPP valve. Once a month , remove the inspectin cover and watch the movement of the linkag/valve when the engine is revved.

Top-end: If you race every weekend, don't se a piston for longer than 2 months. The Cr 250 piston has been known to crack wih extensive wear.

Tuning tips: For more bottom end, add a 5 mm spacer on the exhaust resonance chamber. Several companies make power valve spacers(including Boyesen, Connally, Cometic, Atomic-22 and Motocross plus). A 5mm spacer under the reed block will also broaden power delivery.

Reed petals: Revvers will need to check the reeds every four races. he stock reeds will fray at the corners and edges. If you notice any fraying replace the reeds.

Air cleaner: It is possible to scrape the filter against the frame when removing it from the airbox. This can dump dirt into th intake tract. Be careful . When installing the filter, rotate the filter assembly until youfeel the cage in loc into the locating hole

Clutch: The aluminum plates leave a great deal of debris in the gearbox oil. The smart thing is to change tranny oil after every race. Many riders switch to steel plates to lessen the oil contamination. Honda recomends using GN4 gear oil. It't not as slippery as Honda HP2 motor oil,and the clutch hooks up better.

Gearing: Most pro riders run a 14-tooth countershaft and a 53-tooth rear sprocket(The stock gearing is 13/50).The larger countershaft and larger rear sprocket result in a slightly better gearcombo and reduce strain on the drivetrain. Be sure to red Loc-tite the countershaft bolt.

Chain adjusters: Keep the chain adjuster bolts greased or they will seize in the swingarm.

Fork spring length: Check to insure that the for springs measure 494mm. You may need to preload you fork springs with spacers from PVC. Cometic sells steel preload spacers.


Fork oil: The MXA test crew runs Honda SS7 fork il instead of the stock Honda fork oil.
Set the compression at 11 clicks out and the rebound t 15 out.

Fork height: With a 21 inch wheel , set the fork tube with the line at the top of the clamp.
On a 20 inch wheel, extend the tubes flush to the cap.

Shock settings: Set the high-speed compression at 1-1/2 turns out, low speed compression at 7 clicks out.
Rider sag should be set at 97mm.

Shock linkage pivots: Grease teh pivots when the bike is new and don't shoot the pivots with a high pressure sprayer. Clean and lube theshock linkage every time the shock is serviced (which should be every 6 months) and the steering head and swingarm every other time.

Brakes:Completely bleed and replenish the brakes every 2 months. Check for pad wear at each bleeding. Replace the pads when the surface is worn down to the wear notches on the ends of the pads.


There is a little more to this but not much.
Off the top of my head I got a rockymountainmc clutch for 55 bucks with springs and steel plates to replace the aluminum plates to reduce metal shavings. That is a good deal. I put cr500 springs for better hookup . I don't really notice the clutch being too much harder to squeeze.

Get the eric gorr book "Motocross and offroad performance Handbook" . You don't need the 3rd edition the 2nd edition is fine since this is a 2001. Awesome book!!! It has specific set up for 01 cr's. Check his site "Eric Gorr forward motion " or amazon or ebay may be cheaper . used is fine. Lots of people buy books and never open them up.

I hope this can help you. I used some of this and It has helped.

Good riding!!!!
Have fun riding with your son!!!!

  • btcorey

Posted January 16, 2008 - 10:34 PM

#5

good stuff Hawaiidirtrider!

Calviper7, here's a thread on the Boyesen Rad Valve, good read, espec. on page 2--should help out as well

http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=565846

  • Gino1147

Posted January 17, 2008 - 06:31 AM

#6

Who makes the exhaust spacer?????

  • hawaiidirtrider

Posted January 18, 2008 - 03:31 AM

#7

Who makes the exhaust spacer?????


I know boyesen makes one. I think it is about 45 bucks. find some aluminum plate maybe 1/3rd of an inch thick and match it to the cover for a template. Cut it out , drill out the holes and get some longer screws to make one yourself. If I am not mistaken I saw it on sale at motosportoutlet but that was awhile ago.

  • hawaiidirtrider

Posted February 15, 2008 - 02:37 PM

#8

I know boyesen makes one. I think it is about 45 bucks. find some aluminum plate maybe 1/3rd of an inch thick and match it to the cover for a template. Cut it out , drill out the holes and get some longer screws to make one yourself. If I am not mistaken I saw it on sale at motosportoutlet but that was awhile ago.


I am sorry. 1/3rd of an inch doesn't do much of anything. I think it is at least around 1/2 inch wide . Be aware you probably will have to dent your pipe a little to fit this.

  • CableTec

Posted April 06, 2008 - 07:20 PM

#9

Here are my current mods on my 2001 CR250 - for pictures, please see my garage.....I am extremely happy with it. It does rip and then some! Any questions, feel free to ask away. :thumbsup:

FMF FATTY PIPE AND POWER CORE II SILENCER, FACTORY CONNECTION FULL SUSPENSION, TALON HUBS EXCEL RIMS, MICHELIN STARCROSS MS3 TIRES, WORKS CONNECTION CLUTCH LEVER/PERCH, RENTHAL BARS, RENTHAL SPROCKETS, DID GOLD CHAIN, V FORCE REEDS, WISECO PISTON, BILLET CLUTCH BASKET AND PRESSURE PLATE, TWIN AIR FILTER, THROTTLE JOCKEY/DECALWORKS GRAPHICS, BOYESEN IGNITION/CLUTCH COVERS, RENTHAL DUAL COMPOUND GRIPS, N-STYLE GRIPPER SEAT COVER

I like to run and use for maintenance:

Sonoco 100 Octane w Klotz R50 40:1
Bel-Ray Gear Saver 75w gear oil
Engine-Ice Coolant
Race Tools Muffler Packing Cartridges
Twin Air Filters
NGK Plugs #BR8EIX Iridium or #BR8EG

I also like to use the MXA suspension settings as noted above.

  • lessongeo

Posted April 09, 2008 - 09:34 PM

#10

Would the above gear settings and suspension settings work for a 200lb woods rider?
I just purchased a 2002 CR250, with v-force reed block. Looking for a aftermarket pipe...
Mmmm what else...does anyone run a flywheel weight?
Thx

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  • hawaiidirtrider

Posted April 10, 2008 - 11:20 AM

#11

Would the above gear settings and suspension settings work for a 200lb woods rider?
I just purchased a 2002 CR250, with v-force reed block. Looking for a aftermarket pipe...
Mmmm what else...does anyone run a flywheel weight?
Thx


I ride woods and use close to most settings. The stock suspension is set up for something like a 195lb front spring and a 180lb rear shock spring so it is fine for woods if you are 200lbs. Make sure you get a manual and set the baseline settings. You can play with different settings till it works best for you. It is amazing how much one click here or there makes a world of difference. I am 220 and it was ok. Of course when I revalved(racetech) and resprung for my weight it balanced out my bike and improved it tremendously. I thought it was great before. I just didn't know better.

I run a flywheel weight. It makes a world of difference . If you get the rockymountain clutch kit for $55-60 you will get the steel clutch plates that will increase rotating weight, you'll get a new set of clutch plates and springs, you won't get the aluminum shavings in your oil. I rode a friends cr 250 00' with only the clutch plates and it made a big difference. I almost think my set up is with a little overkill. It is almost too tractorlike. I took away a little too much of the hit. You can see how mine is set up in the TTgarage. For riding around here the 2002 cr should go down on gearing . ...Check the eric gorr book!!! He has great specific details for cr's. Good luck I hope this helps.

  • lessongeo

Posted April 10, 2008 - 08:57 PM

#12

thanks a bunch! my bike has great compression, previous owner seems like a good guy, and flat out-this bike rips! After an 2005 KTM 450sx and a 2005 CRF450, I'm back mixing fuel. :thumbsup:

  • 808hondacrguy

Posted April 10, 2008 - 09:04 PM

#13

Take the Mikuni carb and throw it in the lake. Replace it with the Keihin from a 99 or 00 CR250.The mikuni is a bear to jet and is very finiky on this bike. You will love yourself in the morning! :thumbsup:

  • Ferd

Posted April 11, 2008 - 12:53 PM

#14

I run an 02. I have the Boyesen Rad valve, Gnarly pipe and no Flywheel weight. Originally I ran the SST pipe, the Vforce 3 reeds and a Flywheel weight. What I have now is the best yet.

Oh yeah, throw out that Mikuni nad get yourself a Keihin from Service honda from the 2000 model year. With my set up I'm at 170 main, 42 pilot, 2nd clip position. I ride from sea level to 600 feet or so and don't make any changes. It's not perfect, but again, its the best I've come up with.

(PS, I ran a 1997 for a few years with a flywheel weight and it was great. From 2002 an onward I think the flywheel weight makes the bikes harder to ride...the pre 02 engines have quite a bit a bit more snap off idle and this makes the flywheel useful)

  • rtcmichael

Posted April 11, 2008 - 01:16 PM

#15

I just bought a 2001 CR250 and I was wondering if any body had any tips or opinions on what I should get to make this thing rip :thumbsup:


Get a good exhaust system and get the carb straight. I would also get the controls set up. Wait on the wear items till you need them.

But it should rip already, it's a CR250...right????

  • sage19

Posted July 21, 2009 - 05:28 PM

#16

I have a 2001 cr 250, am wanting to know what is the best main jet, pilot jet and needle clip position for riding about 1000 to 2500 above sea level?

  • hawaiidirtrider

Posted July 24, 2009 - 05:27 PM

#17

I have a 2001 cr 250, am wanting to know what is the best main jet, pilot jet and needle clip position for riding about 1000 to 2500 above sea level?


Did you try any of the settings from the first page? You could start from there.

  • stephenspann27

Posted September 08, 2009 - 07:15 PM

#18

I'm in Texas, and I've always had problems fouling plugs with this bike, unless I ride its balls out on a mx track. I had gone to a 32.5 pilot, and #1 needle clip position. However, I recently installed a 30 pilot, and ditched the 420 main for a 410. The bike is much snappier, and so far with this setup I'm not having any fouling issues even in really tight woods. I realize these are prettly lean settings, but the bike does not act like its running lean, it pulls hard down low, and the plug color is plenty dark..

  • mattofferdahl9

Posted September 08, 2009 - 07:40 PM

#19

I went looking in my notes. I have a zip up binder with a log and settings for my bike . I don't remember what issue it was but I have a faded copy of set up secrets from mxaction for the 2001 cr 250 .

The article is called:

"SETUP SECRETS: WHAT HONDA DIDN'T TELL YOU ABOUT THE CR250"

It must have been early to mid 2001 so take it for what it is worth. I wont put everything down. Some things are kinda common sense and are in your manual.

Jetting: Run a 430 main jet, H176 needle in the second clip positio, 32. pilot and set the air screw at 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns out. This jetting replaces the stock 420 main, H173 needle and 35 pilot . Inspect the routing of the throttle cable before removing the carburetor. Be sure to route the cable the same way after jetting.

HPP valve: If your bike is sluggish on eitherend of the powerband, suspect a gummy HPP valve. Once a month , remove the inspectin cover and watch the movement of the linkag/valve when the engine is revved.

Top-end: If you race every weekend, don't se a piston for longer than 2 months. The Cr 250 piston has been known to crack wih extensive wear.

Tuning tips: For more bottom end, add a 5 mm spacer on the exhaust resonance chamber. Several companies make power valve spacers(including Boyesen, Connally, Cometic, Atomic-22 and Motocross plus). A 5mm spacer under the reed block will also broaden power delivery.

Reed petals: Revvers will need to check the reeds every four races. he stock reeds will fray at the corners and edges. If you notice any fraying replace the reeds.

Air cleaner: It is possible to scrape the filter against the frame when removing it from the airbox. This can dump dirt into th intake tract. Be careful . When installing the filter, rotate the filter assembly until youfeel the cage in loc into the locating hole

Clutch: The aluminum plates leave a great deal of debris in the gearbox oil. The smart thing is to change tranny oil after every race. Many riders switch to steel plates to lessen the oil contamination. Honda recomends using GN4 gear oil. It't not as slippery as Honda HP2 motor oil,and the clutch hooks up better.

Gearing: Most pro riders run a 14-tooth countershaft and a 53-tooth rear sprocket(The stock gearing is 13/50).The larger countershaft and larger rear sprocket result in a slightly better gearcombo and reduce strain on the drivetrain. Be sure to red Loc-tite the countershaft bolt.

Chain adjusters: Keep the chain adjuster bolts greased or they will seize in the swingarm.

Fork spring length: Check to insure that the for springs measure 494mm. You may need to preload you fork springs with spacers from PVC. Cometic sells steel preload spacers.


Fork oil: The MXA test crew runs Honda SS7 fork il instead of the stock Honda fork oil.
Set the compression at 11 clicks out and the rebound t 15 out.

Fork height: With a 21 inch wheel , set the fork tube with the line at the top of the clamp.
On a 20 inch wheel, extend the tubes flush to the cap.

Shock settings: Set the high-speed compression at 1-1/2 turns out, low speed compression at 7 clicks out.
Rider sag should be set at 97mm.

Shock linkage pivots: Grease teh pivots when the bike is new and don't shoot the pivots with a high pressure sprayer. Clean and lube theshock linkage every time the shock is serviced (which should be every 6 months) and the steering head and swingarm every other time.

Brakes:Completely bleed and replenish the brakes every 2 months. Check for pad wear at each bleeding. Replace the pads when the surface is worn down to the wear notches on the ends of the pads.


There is a little more to this but not much.
Off the top of my head I got a rockymountainmc clutch for 55 bucks with springs and steel plates to replace the aluminum plates to reduce metal shavings. That is a good deal. I put cr500 springs for better hookup . I don't really notice the clutch being too much harder to squeeze.

Get the eric gorr book "Motocross and offroad performance Handbook" . You don't need the 3rd edition the 2nd edition is fine since this is a 2001. Awesome book!!! It has specific set up for 01 cr's. Check his site "Eric Gorr forward motion " or amazon or ebay may be cheaper . used is fine. Lots of people buy books and never open them up.

I hope this can help you. I used some of this and It has helped.

Good riding!!!!
Have fun riding with your son!!!!


Great info, BUT...what is the rebound setting on the shock? Also are you talking about the Tusk clutch from RMMC? Or does Rocky Mountain make one?

  • hawaiidirtrider

Posted September 08, 2009 - 08:07 PM

#20

Great info, BUT...what is the rebound setting on the shock? Also are you talking about the Tusk clutch from RMMC? Or does Rocky Mountain make one?


Buy a manual. That will get you the basic info you need before using the info given including your basic rebound setting. Tusk and rockymountain are the same like kirkland is to Costco.





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