Is rear tire lots harder to change than front?

38 replies to this topic
  • angrycookieman

Posted January 15, 2008 - 07:35 PM


The rear I got is a Dunlop D739 A/T Desert Terrain. It does seem pretty stiff.

  • Maroast

Posted January 15, 2008 - 07:36 PM


I really like this thread....lots of good information

http://www.advrider....ght=tire change

  • AtomicGeo

Posted January 15, 2008 - 07:56 PM


FWIW, I pay a guy here $20/per tire for changes.

I run Pirelli MT21 on rear, but I find the rear is much harder to change when I did I did it myself...probably because I run a fat size MT21 130/90R-18...To me it looks cooler than the 120 size.

  • cleonard

Posted January 15, 2008 - 08:25 PM


It's all about technique. Well that and some strength. My first tire was almost impossible. Now I can change a tire in at most 10 minutes. The Maxxis Desert IT is just about the toughest dirt bike tire to mount. Some road legal ones are even worse.

I change my own street bike tires too. They are about like a Maxxis.

Maybe I'll try to mount a car tire some day.

  • haggeo

Posted January 15, 2008 - 08:51 PM


a bead buddy really makes thing easier, two bead buddies are even better. put the tire somewhere warm for a few hours before mounting it. windex is better than anything else IMO. my first time i was almost walking out the door to buy the harbor freight tire changer when i decided to give it one more shot and i've never looked back.

  • jetfuel

Posted January 15, 2008 - 09:01 PM


I don't know if anyone mentioned it but leaving your new tire out in the sun for a few hours to heat up will help it become a bit more plyable before installing it ... But I agree the maxxis IT's are the worst to install...

  • desert4seat

Posted January 15, 2008 - 09:28 PM


Well, since we’re on this great topic…I’ve got a something to confess to you all!

I’ve turned into a tire/tube freak as well as becoming mildly obsessed with tire patches as well...I’m like a tube patching weirdo per say.

Might sound funny, but it’s a good skill to have. Buy one of those valve stem remover tools – and learn how to use it.
Buy a tube patch kit – then buy another one…never can have enough glue and patches.
Examine and replace bad or worn-out valve stems, chase the threads (both inside and outside the valve stem). Carry spare caps! But remember, never over tighten the caps!
Become one with the tube…own the tube. Know its likes/dislikes… and it will set you free!!!
I was taught the art of tube patching and care from an old timer! And I paid close attention when others just laughed him off
...But when the chips are down – you will have the last laugh!!

I’ll stop now.
I’m having an ADD attack.

  • Sunny Socal

Posted January 15, 2008 - 09:29 PM


Some good information here.
My two cents (having changed more than three thousand tires):

When you're putting the tire back on, and you've got one side on, and the rimlocks and tube installed..yeah, air it up quite a bit, then let it all out. This will remove all the wrinkles..and let the tube fall down away from the top bead where you're gonna be working.

A little dish soap in water is all the lube you need. WD40..ah, no. Windex?'s less slippery than plain water. What makes people like it is that you can put the moisture RIGHT exactly where you want it. Try saving an old Windex bottle, filling with water, and just a squirt of dish soap.

Getting the tire warm is the best tip. If you've got the tire as soft as you can get it, it makes it easier to keep the bead down in the drop-center of the rim.

Duct tape? Yes and no. Duct tape works for a while. If you leave it in there for a while it hardens..I've changed several flats that were caused by ridges in ancient duct tape that actually rubbed a hole in the tube. A duct tape-induced problem that happens much faster is that tape traps moisture against the spoke nipples...meaning your nipples will rust much sooner. Not a problem if you change tires fairly regularly, and g'head and change the duct tape, too. That way you get a look at the nipples and spoke ends, and see if you're getting a rust problem.

Finally, use whatever tire irons you want to..I like the ones that are about 11 inches long. But take small bites as you're working a bead on or off. In other words, put your tire iron in close to the last one...don't try to get 10 inches of bead to pop over in a single're just asking for a pinched tube.
:banghead: :busted: :ride:

  • Maroast

Posted January 15, 2008 - 11:34 PM


I’ve turned into a tire/tube freak as well as becoming mildly obsessed with tire patches as well...I’m like a tube patching weirdo per say.

Patches are the way to go...always carry a patch kit and a spare tube. Always patch the tube first, and save the tube for unpatchable events (i.e. ripping the valve stem out).

A few years back I did a pretty big bicycle touring trip...the bike was loaded down with full front and back panniers, and my tires weren't that joke, i got at least flat a day for several tubes would accumulate 20-30 patches before I'd throw a new tube in....

suffice to say, I can throw a patch on a tube reliably in about 1 min :banghead: ...which was a good skill to develope, but it sure sucked at the time!!! :busted:

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  • Suikerland

Posted January 15, 2008 - 11:44 PM


Offer the workshop $20 cash, tell him you're broke.
He'll fix it (still making a profit) and you'll have a MUCH nicer day.
Most workshops I know won't turn away cash for a pure labor job.

  • fastgian

Posted January 16, 2008 - 12:31 AM


another tip or two...

grab an old car tire, put the wheel on it, put on your off road boot and start jumping ( try to keep the right balance...) on the tire

when you are done grab your tire irons and go ahead.

  • DGXR

Posted January 16, 2008 - 09:13 AM


All info posted on this thread is good stuff. I understand that generally, rears are harder to change than fronts due to the smaller diameter and stiffer tire carcass. Harder rubber compounds and higher ply ratings (4pr, 6pr, etc.) make for stiffer carcasses. The right tools make all the difference in the world and baby powder is great for keeping the tube from binding inside the tire. However, the only lube I would use to help the bead seat on the rim is soapy water because it will eventually dry out and let them grip together as intended. Any oil-based lube (WD-40) might allow the tire to slip on the rim and rim locks can only hold so much if you're on a high-power machine. Also, once everything is together and pumped up, I let the wheel sit overnight to make sure it holds pressure (no pinches) before mounting back on the bike... unless I'm riding it right away. My $0.02

  • sploogemonkey

Posted January 16, 2008 - 10:31 AM


The Maxxis Desert IT is just about the toughest dirt bike tire to mount. Some road legal ones are even worse.

I change my own street bike tires too. They are about like a Maxxis.

Yeah, the Desert IT is a sum-beotch to mount if you have big hands, finding the stem can be a painful experience. For those of us who remember the old US made Teraflex tires, now those were hell!:banghead:

I've actually got a spare Maxxis Desert IT in 120/100-18 that's collecting dust, I need the cash more than a spare tire right now.

Brand spankin' new for 60 bucks plus shipping if anyone's interested.

Posted Image

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  • oldturtle

Posted January 16, 2008 - 10:50 AM


I started changing tires years ago with wheel on ground. Now I use a 25 +/- gal barrel with split hose around top of barrel. Much easier now. Also get some good tire irons. Yes, the rear is tougher than front.

  • angrycookieman

Posted January 20, 2008 - 06:23 PM


Well, I "got er done", the new tire was extremly stiff compared to the old one, and I had to get help to get the valve stem through the hole, but other that that It went fairly smooth. After that tire I feel I could do another no problem. Thanks for all your help guys. :cool:

  • philipstjohn

Posted January 23, 2008 - 01:59 PM


I just changed both front and rear tires on my XRR at the same time. No big deal, and it will go much faster the next time I am sure. But I saved alot more money then the tire change cost itself I believe. Let me explain. While doing the rear, I noticed the chain adjuster bolt on one side was not turning smoothly as it should. It seemed to be on its way to seizing up. So, I worked both adjuster bolts out, drained the water in the swingarm, applied anti seize to both bolts and back in they went smooth as silk. I bet if it went to the average shop, they would have changed out the tires, but not gone the extra mile to correct the "tight bolt issue". By next tire change, the adjuster bolt may have been seized up, creating a more costly repair. So, this illustrates if you do the job yourself, it gets done right the first time. If time is an issue, and you need to pay someone to do the job, ask them to do the extra steps mentioned above for piece of mind. Moto tip of the day...:cool:

  • iracekx

Posted January 24, 2008 - 08:52 AM


If your chain adjuster bolts seem like they are freezing up take and put anti seize on them run them in and then back out. At that point you can coat the bolt with anti seize. I do that process every time the rear wheel comes off. I also put anti seize on the screws that hold the chain guard that wraps from the top to the bottom. The rear brake line holders and and master cylinder screws get anti seize also. It sucks butt when the lock up in there better safe than sorry like phillipstjohn said.

  • Denn10

Posted January 24, 2008 - 01:30 PM


a good set of tire irons is the key, also if you can put tire in sun or warm up if no sun with blow drier/heat gun (dont melt) take it inside house, ANYTHING to warm the rubber does help for sure.

  • CReffex

Posted January 24, 2008 - 02:34 PM


Lots of dishwashing liquid applied w/ a rubber clove to get the entire bead.. Take smaller bites w/ ur irons, be patient fishing the stem through, and just Man up... Who wants to waste $20 or $30 bucks having something done that most everyone is capable of doing thereselves...

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