Mobil 1 Motorcycle Oil

[fastmonstr]

What do you guys think about Mobil 1? I have used the V Twin synthetic for years in my Ducatis with good luck.

What kind of oil are you guys using?

[Chaindrive]

FWIW: I use Mobil 1 synthetic in EVERYTHING from my Cummins diesel Dodge to the WR and JD mower. Not the SAME stuff though!

The local walmart has BOTH V-twin AND 4-stroke motorcycle-specific Mobil 1. I use the 4-stroke. The V-twin, I THINK, is for bikes with separate engine and gearcase/wet clutch oils.(Good for a Honda 450?)

I could be using the wrong stuff, but my bike runs great (seems cooler too) and the oil I change is clean with no burnt-clutch smell.

Believe it or not, the ultimate test, IMHO, for a gearcase/wet clutch oil is a high-perf. racing 50cc with their constantly-slipping, in&out,13K rpm, centrifugal clutches and single speed gearbox.

According to PVL (they make the ignition and want you to remove the ign. cover after each race because the heat transmitted through the crank can toast the stator), these bikes generate nearly twice the gearbox temp of a "regular" bike!!

Combine that with @1/2 qt capacity, and you need a synthetic!... and LOTS of oil changes! New clutch shoes are $150 a pop!! Haven't bought any in a long time and I credit the oil.

If there is something significantly better and readily available, I really want to know! ?

I am going to switch my boys' 50's and KX65 2-stroke oil over to Mobil 1 synthetic, too, unless someone has bad experience with it?...

[lewichris]

i myself ahve converted to the 15w50 tri synthetic. I did it cause i trust the Guys on here. i cant tell id my motor likes it or not. We are not on speaking terms. The guys on here have never steared me wrong. Except for that one time......

[Scott_in_KC]

Ya, use the regular Mobil 1 sythentic, red cap, 15-50. Walmart has it in the big 5 quart jug for $17.98. Everyone I know is using the regular "car" oil and I personally have used in my WR since new last fall and previously in my Husaberg FE501E and have had ZERO problems. Dealers are full of crap that tell you to buy their over priced oil and the BS about the clutch slipping...blah blah blah. Don't sweat it, just jump on man! ?

[Chaindrive]

Just sent an email to Mobil. I went to www.mobil1.com and read all the motorcycle info there.

They DO NOT recommend Tri-Synthetic (car oil) formulation for motorcycles.The "Tri" part indicates a special FRICTION MODIFIER (good for cars; bad for bikes) Not only is it potentially harmful to your wet clutch, but it would appear they spent a few bucks formulating the MX4T(10W-40), and V-Twin(20W-50),and MX2T (2smoke) specifically for different MOTORCYCLES' varying and more extreme demands which they feel are far different from Mom's grocery-getter or Bobby's Big Rig. Phosphorous stuff, etc. (good for bike engines; bad for catalytic converters). There's more to it than "slippery stuff" it seems.

I was wrong about the V-Twin (20W-50) being for bikes with separate engine and gearcase/wet clutch oils. It is formulated for the extreme heat an air-cooled V-Twin generates due to idling in city traffic and lack of airflow, especially to the rear cylinder. MX4T is for liquid-cooled, extreme demand, 4 stroke engines.

However, due to the Yamaha recommendations of 10W-40 for cold weather and 20W-50 for all else for our hot-running bikes, PLUS the fact that a synthetic will protect over a FAR greater range of temp. extremes than conventional oil, this left the choice between the 2 yet unclear to me. So, I described our bikes, engines, and extreme demands to Mobil's customer Q&A: I asked WHICH of the Motorcycle-specific ,synthetic oils is best for OUR bikes and uses.

Hopefully, we can lay the Mobil1 questions to rest in a day or two...

The hardest part was being limited to a 500 CHARACTER (spaces included) question!!! IMAGINE!...ME!...@8 short sentences...HA! ? 15min of typing & 50min of editing!

lewichris:"we are not on speaking terms" Which one of you isn't "getting any"? and: WHAT one time?...

[ April 09, 2002: Message edited by: Chaindrive ]

[ April 09, 2002: Message edited by: Chaindrive ]

[ April 09, 2002: Message edited by: Chaindrive ]

[fastmonstr]

Thanks for you research. I am curious what Mobil has to say.

[lewichris]

bla bla bla. Mobile 1 wants you to spend 8 bucks a quart on their "motorcycle oil". For everone in the house that uses the car stuff please stand up, please stand up. I only changed cause no one has had any problems with clutches or motors after using it for a long time.

[JBM]

I've been using Mobil 1 15w50 red cap auto oil for about 2 years. I am still on the original clutch and everything else. Seems to work fine for me. Just keep it fresh.

[Scott_in_KC]

JMB...you and just about everyone else I know.

Why, if they make a more expensive MC specific oil, would they tell you buy the cheaper car oil? Of course they're going to say it's bad. Practically every four-stroke guru out there recommends it without hesitation.

Let's put it this way, the topic comes up a LOT. Buy what you want, noone will know any different and their motorcycle oil is still less than Yamalube from the dealer. But, I have yet to EVER read a post from ANYONE saying their clutch life was strangely shorter since putting in Mobil 1 15-50 or that some horrible engine failure happened just after a switch to it. It just doesn't happen. That Husaberg I had was running it since '97 and when I sold it last year it was still on the original clutch and the engine looked brand new inside. It was almost freaky how clean it was. No gunk, no scorching...just clean metal.

[Chaindrive]

What you guys are ignoring is the extra additives Mobil puts into ONLY the motorcycle oil, things to help with the higher demands. You are not losing anything, you are GAINING. And if you are gonna whine about the cost, you can still get 99 cent no-name car oil and feel REALLY good about it! If the car stuff is as good as you say, then you are only shorting yourself additional protection. I won't.

I have been using Mobil 1 15W-50 in my Cummins diesel Dodge since new. My visit to their website has convinced me to switch to their Delvac 1 synthetic. Not because the Tri-Synthetic is not suitable for diesels,the Delvac is SPECIFICALLY FOR diesels (yet it too can be used in gas motors).Just like the MX4T and V-Twin formulations, it has special additives for higher ring land temps, anti-consumption, etc.

Run what you want, but "if you trust the brand; trust their recommendations". With all due respect to everyone's considerable knowledge and experience, I trust Mobil's knowledge of their own products more in this case.

Here is Mobil's very prompt answer followed by my "500 character" question:

Either the Mobil1 V-TWIN or the MX4T will be a great choice for you, The V-TWIN will provide the higher heat protection.

rathfamily@mindspring.com wrote:

> Several hundred of us have the new 4stroke dirtbikes from Yamaha.Severe demands!Single cyl.,liquid cooled,short-stroke,13K rpm,dry-sump oiling(combined eng.& gearbox/clutch)engines rivaling 2-strokes for power vs.weight.Yam calls for 10W40 for cold and 20W50 for warm weather.I am unclear as to WHICH cycle Mobil1 to use: I use the MX4T.The V-Twin may provide better high temp protection for our hotrunning engines while still protecting the gearbox/wet clutch components?Thanks, Scott Rath

[neWRiver]

I would not deny that there may be a difference in the lubrication formulation needs between my Chevy and my WR250F. I really wouldn't know.

I do know that MC specific costs more. Why? Are they putting gold dust in there or something? Please don't tell me it's because they have to print up some new labels for the bottles or because the recipe is different or because they don't sell as many of that "flavor" as they do of the other flavors. BS!

I'll tell you one thing I do know for true. If the MX4T were sitting next to the red cap 15-50 at Checker or Walmart (or wherever) for the same price, there would be no controversy. We all would gladly heed the manufacturer's recommendation as to which one to use.

Interesting that Mobile would happily recommend the V-Twin formulation. I guess the formulation requirements are not so specific as longer as you're buying from their "top shelf", eh?

Please. ?

[Chaindrive]

I buy all my Mobile 1 oils at the local walmart. There is less than $1.50 difference in price between any of them. It is cheaper than the cheap non-synthetic "motorcycle oil" at local shops.

The V-Twin is simply designed for higher temps. I agree that Mobile does not do a very good job with the names. They should simply be: 4-Stroke Motorcycle Formula 10W-40 and 20W-50.

And Newriver answered himself.

I'm happy that Mobil took the time and trouble to specially formulate specific oil for our relatively puny market. Make no mistake, motorcycle oil is definitely not a major share of their oil market. I have no doubt it DOES cost more if not for the ingredients, then for the separate "brewing" and the R&D. If you don't trust that they even DO this ("it all comes out the same pipe" theory) why would you buy ANY of their products?!!

There are all different prices for beer, too, and they'll all get you drunk. Yet most of us have our preferences (for good reasons that a non-beer-drinker could never comprehend) and pay the difference. What you "save" on oil might buy you one beer. Priorities?

My pickup requires 12qts, my '69 Camaro 5, my wifes Blazer 4...(you don't even WANNA know how many GALLONS my semi takes!)... and I'm gonna "save" dough on my WR?!! ?

[ April 10, 2002: Message edited by: Chaindrive ]

[neWRiver]

Sorry, I didn't realize that "saving dough" was the primary consideration under discussion. I can afford MX4T, V-Twin or any motor oil I want.

Save dough on my WR??? Priorities??? ?

Let's see. My dirtbiking enthusiasm has little to do with my "real" priorities. From a financial perspective it is a huge money hole that I feed with irrational eagerness. I have four riders in my family and one just coming of age. Consider the cost of bikes, aftermarket upgrades and accessories, tires, protective gear and clothing, a trailer, GPS equipment, camping equipment, and please don't mention RV's and Toy Haulers to my wife any more until she calms down a little bit. Now, where exactly do you suppose that "save $1.50 on oil" would go on that list?

"Mobile does not do a very good job with the names"

Are you kidding? I'll bet they spent more "R&D" dollars "refining" and promoting those names than they did to develop and implement a separate refining process for MC specific oil. And I guess it was money well spent if enough people believe that it costs significantly more to produce those products. My choice to use the more reasonably priced product over the "specially formulated" product with the inflated price is more a matter of principle than anything else.

"They should simply be: 4-Stroke Motorcycle Formula 10W-40 and 20W-50." Amen, brother and they should be priced accordingly.

[Chaindrive]

Now, where exactly do you suppose that "save $1.50 on oil" would go on that list?

Future divorce lawyer fund? ?

[Scott_in_KC]

I just switched to extra virgin olive oil last night. I got it at Costco for $4.75 a gallon!! You must use "extra virgin" though, the non-virgin oil is totally different and may have little pieces of olives in it that could clog your filter!!

So far so good, but for some reason I get hungry as hell after starting the bike. ?

UPDATE:

Just got email back from Bertolli, the makers of the EVOO (extra virgin olive oil) that I'm using. They confirmed that you must use extra-virgin. Even though it costs more. DO NOT try using regular olive oil, especially the cheap yellow label Best Choice!! Canola oil burns cleaner but won't hold up the temps our bikes create.

Also, by suggestion of my 3 year old, I'll be tearing everything down and lubing the swingarm & steering head with peanut butter (smooth of course...smart ellick!) And using margarita mix in the radiator. I figure it's about the same color and should work great. I'm installing a little spiggit on the overflow tank so I can draw some samples if I run short durning a party.

[ April 11, 2002: Message edited by: Scott in KC ]

[joecallan]

I've been using Mobil 1 15-50 for over 5000 miles and use my bike as a daily driver. It still feels like brand new (clutch and all). I think I'll stick with it.

joe ?

[ow595]

Ah Oil, What a fun topic.

FYI The Mobil 1 15/50 debate is old hat for the sportbike guys.

The Mobil 4T (motorcycle only) oil was started/made forthe new Triumph motorcycles,We have received numerious responces from Mobil that said that the Mobil specific synthitic oil is no different then their Mobil 1 15/50. In the future this may change. But numerious of us have run our 110-115+HP motors without even the slightest sign of wear or clutch slipage.

I am sure that this oil is more then adaquite for a fairly low tech thumpers.

Mobil also did a test of their Mobil 1, they ran a BMW 325i on a roller dyno for 1 million miles (24 hours a day until the miles were hit)they would tear down the engine at certain intervals to check the tollerances. After the final tear down there was not noticeable wear and all parts were with-in specs. Pretty amazing stuff.

William

[lewichris]

Originally posted by Scott in KC:

I just switched to extra virgin olive oil last night. I got it at Costco for $4.75 a gallon!! You must use "extra virgin" though, the non-virgin oil is totally different and may have little pieces of olives in it that could clog your filter!!

So far so good, but for some reason I get hungry as hell after starting the bike. ?

UPDATE:

Just got email back from Bertolli, the makers of the EVOO (extra virgin olive oil) that I'm using. They confirmed that you must use extra-virgin. Even though it costs more. DO NOT try using regular olive oil, especially the cheap yellow label Best Choice!! Canola oil burns cleaner but won't hold up the temps our bikes create.

Also, by suggestion of my 3 year old, I'll be tearing everything down and lubing the swingarm & steering head with peanut butter (smooth of course...smart ellick!) And using margarita mix in the radiator. I figure it's about the same color and should work great. I'm installing a little spiggit on the overflow tank so I can draw some samples if I run short durning a party.

[ April 11, 2002: Message edited by: Scott in KC ]

you are pretty funny...................lookin that is

[Mud_Sweat_&_Gears]

Before you buy the "New Formula" SL rated Mobil 1 15w-50 for your dirt bike, check out this post!

https://www.thumpertalk.com/bike/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=12&t=005354

It just might be the answer for using MX4T. ?

[Steve_Sanford]

Every body should go down to the closest gas station and buy the cheapest 10w40 oil on the shelf. All of you who believe the hype the manufactures play are just making the oil companies rich. It's all the same stuff!!!