Water Crossing Woes



8 replies to this topic
  • Dodger

Posted April 08, 2002 - 08:43 AM

#1

I've been running into some problems doing water crossings on my WR (and not the "Help, I can't swim" type :D ).

Yesterday for example, was playing in a water crossing at one of my local riding areas. Dimensions go 20ft across, and at the deepest, maybe 2 1/2 ft deep. Start in slow, 2nd gear, rev it up as the water drag starts to slow the bike. My bike would then start to "blurble" about half way through as thought it was taking in water, and by the time I roll out the other side, the bike dies :) ! 2 kicks later and fires right up, no problems what so ever :D !!

Seems to me like something is shorting out temporarely. I've got a whole pannel of experts here, what is causeing this do you suppose?? I'm guessing it has something to do with the ignition, but where is water getting that it would cause this, and even more importantely, what can I do to fix this???? My previous bike was a KDX220, I could damn near float the thing and it would keep running.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Dodger :D :D

  • Chaindrive

Posted April 08, 2002 - 09:43 PM

#2

Off-topic Dodger, but do you have any more of those great pics like "poison spider arch"? Born & raised in the mud/rust/flatland midwest, so those kind of shots are dream-fuel!

Shallow water is all I have experience with (will watch this topic closely). If the WATER is 2.5' here, the mud under it is too. :)

  • Ron_in_SoCal

Posted April 08, 2002 - 09:55 PM

#3

My guess is you need to put a tee in your float bowl breather tube and run another tube up high, like under the seat. I think you may be experiencing a situation where the carb can not do its thing due to the breather hose is under water. It should be a $2 fix tops.

  • YAMAKAZE

Posted April 08, 2002 - 10:02 AM

#4

Mine started to do the same thing after taking off the ignition cover when doing the YZ timing. I put a little sealer on the plastic threads and it has not reoccured since. You might want to check and see if one of the two plugs have vibrated loose.....gently tighten if they have. I was up to the middle of the carb in a race yesterday and no more problems with that....

Bonzai :)

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  • Nige_Uk

Posted April 08, 2002 - 08:29 PM

#5

Install 'T's into your carb breather tubes. One simple test is to start the bike & place all the ends of the tubes into a bucket of water & see what happens, this way you can see if it is the carb breathers or other the sealing of your ignition as mentioned previously

Nige

  • endurodog

Posted April 08, 2002 - 08:49 PM

#6

Actually if your carb is the same as on most modern bikes, my 2000 WR400, 2002 YZ250, and 2001 YZ125, there are 2 hoses coming off of either side of the carb, total of 4. Take the upper hose from either side, 2 hoses, and run them into your air box.

The problem is when the cold water hits your carb it cools the fuel and changes the air density. The vent tubes, all 4 are under water and it creates a vacum lock. By having 2 of the 4 vent tubes in the air box where they can still access fresh air the air density in the fuel bowl can equalize.

  • z4me

Posted April 09, 2002 - 01:54 AM

#7

I agree with endurodog 100%.

  • Dodger

Posted April 09, 2002 - 04:38 AM

#8

Aaah haaa, You guys rule. Thanks to all.

Oh, and Chaindrive, I know your pain. I grew up in Sioux Falls S.D., so definitely understand. I will be getting more pic's developed from our trip to Moab last week, will try to get them posted here soon.

Take care y'all!

Dodger :) :D

  • Chaindrive

Posted April 09, 2002 - 12:18 PM

#9

Thanks! Dodger. I taped Poison Spider to the dash of my semi...ambitions, you know... :D

These guys ARE smart!! I'm just smart enough to gladly take advantage of THEIR smarts!!! :) :D




 
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