new chain install


13 replies to this topic
  • haggeo

Posted January 07, 2008 - 07:11 PM

#1

i'm putting a new 48 tooth sprocket on my bike to replace the 42 tooth that i bought it with. old chain is, well, old, and too short to boot so i bought a new RK o ring chain. got the old 111 link chain off easy enough and it's time to put the new chain on. the new chain is 114 links and it looks like i'll be removing 1 or two links. so, i'm thinking i'll set the axle just past center toward the front, press on the master link, rivet, adjust, ride then adjust again. how much stretch can i expect initially?

  • martinfan30

Posted January 08, 2008 - 12:33 PM

#2

i'm putting a new 48 tooth sprocket on my bike to replace the 42 tooth that i bought it with. old chain is, well, old, and too short to boot so i bought a new RK o ring chain. got the old 111 link chain off easy enough and it's time to put the new chain on. the new chain is 114 links and it looks like i'll be removing 1 or two links. so, i'm thinking i'll set the axle just past center toward the front, press on the master link, rivet, adjust, ride then adjust again. how much stretch can i expect initially?


different for every setup, but it will happen pretty quick.

  • Denn10

Posted January 08, 2008 - 01:30 PM

#3

bro it sounds like youve got a plan thats about perfect UNLESS you just wanna use a standard master link then i would go on the long side since you can just cut out a link if it stretches too much. Remember further back in the swingarm gives a little more stability

  • haggeo

Posted January 08, 2008 - 02:53 PM

#4

bro it sounds like youve got a plan thats about perfect UNLESS you just wanna use a standard master link then i would go on the long side since you can just cut out a link if it stretches too much. Remember further back in the swingarm gives a little more stability


good info, thanks that's what i was looking for. i am going to go with the master link.

  • Denn10

Posted January 08, 2008 - 05:28 PM

#5

alot are scarred of the master link but im not...YEAH thats right im SUPER LINK

  • motomonte

Posted January 08, 2008 - 06:20 PM

#6

I've always used non riveted master links.Just make checking them part of your pre-run list.The snap clip is prone to getting loose...As far as stretching some chains come pre-stretched from factory (or that they claim)so we'll see.

  • Butta

Posted January 08, 2008 - 06:55 PM

#7

I've always used Regina o-ring chains, and have found that they stretch very very little. Check it out after each hour within the first 5 hours, then, every couple rides or so. I think I went almost 35 hours of riding on my YZF 450 with no chain adj required. You get spoiled with good o-ring chains.

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  • Butta

Posted January 08, 2008 - 06:56 PM

#8

I've always used non riveted master links.Just make checking them part of your pre-run list.The snap clip is prone to getting loose...As far as stretching some chains come pre-stretched from factory (or that they claim)so we'll see.



I agree.....although I've never had one come off, they do tend to become worn after awhile, from rubbing on the chain block.

  • haggeo

Posted January 08, 2008 - 07:01 PM

#9

i assume that the master link that came with my chain can be riveted instead? or is the master link different for a rivet master link?

  • motomonte

Posted January 08, 2008 - 07:11 PM

#10

It can be riveted but it won't hold as well as a riveted one,that's for sure.The thing about non-riveted chains the is ease of servicing.Otherwise a riveted chain is a more stronger/reliable connection.IMO

  • haggeo

Posted January 08, 2008 - 07:27 PM

#11

yeah, i figure the clip type master link is probably a harder metal than a rivet type so it's probably harder to rivet. i'll just go buy a rivet master link for a few bucks.

  • martinfan30

Posted January 08, 2008 - 07:28 PM

#12

alot are scarred of the master link but im not...YEAH thats right im SUPER LINK


I'm thinking more, "The Missing Link"!!lol

  • haggeo

Posted January 09, 2008 - 06:58 PM

#13

i finally got the chain on and riveted but it's surprising how far forward the wheel has to sit with the 48 tooth sprocket. i have not made the final adjustments or ridden it so maybe the chain will have a bit of stretch after a test ride. the $16 chain tool from mikesxs.net or whatever it's called is great, it's a clone of the $130 DID tool. this thing presses out the old pin after you grind the rivet, might even push it out without grinding, presses on the master link and rivets the pins. some people like to use a vise grips but this is cheaper than a vise grip and does two other jobs. anyway.....

  • Denn10

Posted January 09, 2008 - 11:00 PM

#14

Good job hopefully it will settle in after a ride, maybe one more link woulda been better but nothing you can do now. Its prolly very little difference in full foreward and all the way back in the swingarm but i just prefer mine back as much as i can.

For all the others posting before about clip type master links wearing and coming loose, i dont know where you got them but in 20 years ive never had one clip fall off a master link or even close to just have to mount it one way so it goes through the chain guide with closed end of clip foreward. This prevents a mishap of the open end on the clip catching as the chain rolls through everything.





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