best way to improve low end speed?


20 replies to this topic
  • jtn 06 wr450

Posted January 07, 2008 - 12:02 PM

#1

im wanting to improve my low end speed to be able to get the front wheel off the ground quicker for desert/technical riding on my wr450. the option im thinking of is to go with a 13/52 instead of the stock 14/50 gearing i have now. will this do the trick or is there a better more economical way than this?:banghead:

  • 02WR426Cali

Posted January 07, 2008 - 03:35 PM

#2

That will definately do the trick although it might be too big of a jump from stock. You will gain a ton of acceleration and bottom end and loose top speed and top end. 1st gear will pretty much be useless with that gearing, especially in the desert. I would try maybe just the 13 tooth front first, or just the 52 in the rear first, but not both. Both seems too drastic of a change

  • Greenroom

Posted January 07, 2008 - 04:37 PM

#3

I'm running the Pro Taper 51 Tooth. Just enough change without loosing the top end. :banghead:

  • jpoehls

Posted January 07, 2008 - 07:32 PM

#4

2 posts are right on. Both sprockets changing is too big a jump. Dropping one tooth in front is equivalent to increasing 3 in the back. Drop one in front and start with that. Front sprockets are cheaper. If that is too much you know to add 1 or 2 in back and go back to 14 in front. Everyone has own riding touch. You will find yours experimenting, but realize you lose some top end. I run 13X51 on my 07, but I do a lot of technical, rocky mountain climbing and down hill.

  • w00dsRider

Posted January 08, 2008 - 03:06 AM

#5

I'm running the Pro Taper 51 Tooth. Just enough change without loosing the top end. :banghead:


I'm running a 51 tooth as well and like the change although mine is a Renthal Twin Ring. One of my riding buddies changed to the same gearing on his 250 two-smoke and likes the change as well.

You can just use the clutch more, like a two smoke, that'll get your front end up as well and doesn't cost anything up front.

  • jtn 06 wr450

Posted January 08, 2008 - 06:58 AM

#6

thanks for the great info.
being new to this im terrible at clutching and seem to get myself into more trouble than good. slowly getting there though. (damn mt bike never had a clutch)

i will try the 13 in the front first since it seems easiest and in-expensive.

i have had it at 80+ on flat roads in 5th and for the riding i do thats plenty fast. i tend to ride rabbit valley, rifle, green river and junction which are for the most part technical so the better low end gearing shuold do the trick.

thanks again.

  • dugabrams

Posted January 08, 2008 - 07:21 AM

#7

Don't know if this applies to any of you, but a perfectly tuned pilot circuit will make a very noticable difference when it comes time to wheelie over that log at low speed. I had a similar concern on my '05 until I properly tuned the pilot and now the bike is a tractor at low rpm. Wheelies with just a little blip at the lowest of revs. So much so that I have gone back to stock gearing.

  • 02WR426Cali

Posted January 08, 2008 - 07:26 AM

#8

thanks for the great info.
being new to this im terrible at clutching and seem to get myself into more trouble than good. slowly getting there though. (damn mt bike never had a clutch)

i will try the 13 in the front first since it seems easiest and in-expensive.

i have had it at 80+ on flat roads in 5th and for the riding i do thats plenty fast. i tend to ride rabbit valley, rifle, green river and junction which are for the most part technical so the better low end gearing shuold do the trick.

thanks again.



Well with that 13 in the front you'll be lucky to go 65. I dropped one tooth on my quad (05 honda 400ex) and it works great for hill climbs and wheelies, but my top speed seemed to drop what feels like 20MPH. I'm sure it didn't drop that much, but that's how it feels. And for the riding I do on it (dunes, desert, trail) first gear is almost useless

  • kid145

Posted January 09, 2008 - 02:37 PM

#9

I'd try the 13 tooth front first, cause thoes are pretty cheap.

  • SJMC_DON

Posted January 09, 2008 - 03:18 PM

#10

i will try the 13 in the front first since it seems easiest and in-expensive.


thanks again.


EXACTLY.... cheaper and way easier/quicker to change out.

I always ran a 13/50 on my past WR's.... 07' comes stock with 13/50 but the trans. must be different. I wanted lower gearing and went to a 12T C/S and it was too low. I might go with a 51T rear on the 07 :banghead:

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • SJMC_DON

Posted January 09, 2008 - 03:20 PM

#11

Well with that 13 in the front you'll be lucky to go 65. I dropped one tooth on my quad (05 honda 400ex) and it works great for hill climbs and wheelies, but my top speed seemed to drop what feels like 20MPH. I'm sure it didn't drop that much, but that's how it feels. And for the riding I do on it (dunes, desert, trail) first gear is almost useless


I could do 72mph on my 04' 450 running the 13/50 :banghead:

  • 02WR426Cali

Posted January 09, 2008 - 03:22 PM

#12

One disadvantage with a smaller front sprocket is higher engine revs. with a 13 th it has to rev more to turn the stock 50 th rear. Where a 14 th would rev les to turn the 50. May not seem like a big deal, but trust me I notice it on my quad, the engine revs noticably higher even when cruising down a road. This will obviosly hurt in the long run

  • SJMC_DON

Posted January 09, 2008 - 03:27 PM

#13

One disadvantage with a smaller front sprocket is higher engine revs. with a 13 th it has to rev more to turn the stock 50 th rear. Where a 14 th would rev les to turn the 50. May not seem like a big deal, but trust me I notice it on my quad, the engine revs noticably higher even when cruising down a road. This will obviosly hurt in the long run


Really depends on terrain and riding style... 90% of my riding is tight and technical but when I ride desert or GP I take 15 minutes and change out the sprocket to something bigger... thats the beauty of just changing the C/S sprocket, it's quick and easy.

I see the real down side to be chain wear... if the the sprockets do not have even and consistent wear I think it will cause undue stress on the chain :banghead:

  • w00dsRider

Posted January 10, 2008 - 03:33 AM

#14

Really depends on terrain and riding style... 90% of my riding is tight and technical but when I ride desert or GP I take 15 minutes and change out the sprocket to something bigger... thats the beauty of just changing the C/S sprocket, it's quick and easy.

I see the real down side to be chain wear... if the the sprockets do not have even and consistent wear I think it will cause undue stress on the chain :banghead:


"They" do say that you should change both sprockets and chain at the same time due to possible abnormal wear issues. But if there isn't much wear on what you have on now it might be worth a shot.:busted:

  • SJMC_DON

Posted January 10, 2008 - 05:26 AM

#15

"They" do say that you should change both sprockets and chain at the same time due to possible abnormal wear issues. But if there isn't much wear on what you have on now it might be worth a shot.:banghead:


Thats been my thought and I never have had any issues but I change chain and sprockets every year regardless...

  • thumperjp

Posted January 10, 2008 - 05:58 AM

#16

im wanting to improve my low end speed to be able to get the front wheel off the ground quicker for desert/technical riding on my wr450. the option im thinking of is to go with a 13/52 instead of the stock 14/50 gearing i have now. will this do the trick or is there a better more economical way than this?:banghead:


I am riding with Europe version CDI. It is good in the tight area. I like it.:busted:

  • Guzzidave

Posted January 10, 2008 - 07:29 AM

#17

Don't know if this applies to any of you, but a perfectly tuned pilot circuit will make a very noticable difference when it comes time to wheelie over that log at low speed. I had a similar concern on my '05 until I properly tuned the pilot and now the bike is a tractor at low rpm. Wheelies with just a little blip at the lowest of revs. So much so that I have gone back to stock gearing.


Details?
Any changes from stock?

  • jtn 06 wr450

Posted January 10, 2008 - 12:55 PM

#18

I am riding with Europe version CDI.



?????? how would one go about changing a CDI to this? sounds espensive...:banghead:

  • thumperjp

Posted January 11, 2008 - 04:30 AM

#19

?????? how would one go about changing a CDI to this? sounds espensive...:banghead:


Europe version CDI bring the power more merrow. It is suit for rock and tight stuff.

I have a cheaper idea now! Try to disconnect the connector from carbretour, and go tight stuff again. If you like that, make a switch between the connector.

  • dugabrams

Posted January 11, 2008 - 10:18 AM

#20

Details?
Any changes from stock?


Just the free mods. Go into the TT jetting section and look for the FAQ's. Follow the fuel screw adjustment method. If you bike has the wrong pilot jet, you will know, but many times just a small adjustment to the fuel screw produces a much better low rpm machine.




 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.