It's cold,don't forget to change summer oil.


43 replies to this topic
  • scalejockey

Posted January 01, 2008 - 05:51 PM

#1

Got the pig out to ride monday. It was 23 degrees when i "tried" to start it before leaving for the final stop in the desert. I run a 20-50 syn. blend in the summer and had last changed it in oct. when it was still warm.

It would not even kick over for a full stroke.I thought the kickstarter was going to snap off. Felt like the auto decomp. wasn't working. Finally squirted a little carb cleaner {stop laughing} in the carb intake to get it started and warmed.(I was going riding and nothing was stopping me!!)

Got home and changed out to 0W-40 mobile 1 syn.

  • hondacrf150f1

Posted January 01, 2008 - 06:18 PM

#2

Got the pig out to ride monday. It was 23 degrees when i "tried" to start it before leaving for the final stop in the desert. I run a 20-50 syn. blend in the summer and had last changed it in oct. when it was still warm.

It would not even kick over for a full stroke.I thought the kickstarter was going to snap off. Felt like the auto decomp. wasn't working. Finally squirted a little carb cleaner {stop laughing} in the carb intake to get it started and warmed.(I was going riding and nothing was stopping me!!)

Got home and changed out to 0W-40 mobile 1 syn.



I run ampsoil 20-50 and my 650R starts up on those 15-30 degree mornings with a little exta kicking effort and choke:excuseme:

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted January 01, 2008 - 07:23 PM

#3

Got the pig out to ride monday. It was 23 degrees when i "tried" to start it before leaving for the final stop in the desert. I run a 20-50 syn. blend in the summer and had last changed it in oct. when it was still warm.

It would not even kick over for a full stroke.I thought the kickstarter was going to snap off. Felt like the auto decomp. wasn't working. Finally squirted a little carb cleaner {stop laughing} in the carb intake to get it started and warmed.(I was going riding and nothing was stopping me!!)

Got home and changed out to 0W-40 mobile 1 syn.


Yeah, it was so cold here, I had to actually put on a shirt. 61 degrees.

  • ryontd

Posted January 01, 2008 - 08:39 PM

#4

Yeah- tuff morning here- I had to work on New Years Day. It was cold when I got in the Car- Outside temp was 58 degrees at 5am thanks to the Santa Ana were having. Yeah tuff day to...I think it only got up to 77 degrees where I work...Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr:p

  • scalejockey

Posted January 02, 2008 - 05:39 AM

#5

Aww man.. 61 . 77 . that just sucks. I can't figure why so many people have moved here from california! Actually it wasn't that bad riding.It got up to 31 and sunny. So the dirt was still frozen,(no mud). As far as the bike not starting,it was a little krankie all day, a 3 kick start every time. I think i'll check the valves this week.

  • philipstjohn

Posted January 02, 2008 - 05:56 AM

#6

Aww man.. 61 . 77 . that just sucks. I can't figure why so many people have moved here from california! Actually it wasn't that bad riding.It got up to 31 and sunny. So the dirt was still frozen,(no mud). As far as the bike not starting,it was a little krankie all day, a 3 kick start every time. I think i'll check the valves this week.


Woke up to 40 degrees in Florida today :busted: :D :D being from So Cal this is cold to me! Never have tried to start the bike (my XRR) in cold weather. Running 20-50. You guys say its harder to get the pig fired up in cold weather? Mine fires first kick most times in normal weather. I guess I should try to fire her up and see how my piggy likes this cold front! :banghead: :D

  • Denn10

Posted January 02, 2008 - 09:04 AM

#7

im in high desert CA and its been in the 30s and ive ridden when its down into 20s never had a problem so far this winter and i use 20/50 after warm and riding was in the 200 range for oil temp so ill stick with my 20/50 since its running those temps.

Not sure why the oil would make it that extremely hard to kick over though????

  • lilbro

Posted January 02, 2008 - 09:08 AM

#8

One of my Wifes "Blonde" friends came over and asked if I could change the air in here tires from summer air to winter air. Her Dad convinced her it needed done.

  • martinfan30

Posted January 02, 2008 - 01:07 PM

#9

im in high desert CA and its been in the 30s and ive ridden when its down into 20s never had a problem so far this winter and i use 20/50 after warm and riding was in the 200 range for oil temp so ill stick with my 20/50 since its running those temps.

Not sure why the oil would make it that extremely hard to kick over though????


thats what i was thinking too.

  • BWB63

Posted January 02, 2008 - 01:43 PM

#10

I change the oil at least once a month, sometimes twice a month. When the bike was new and after the rebiuld four times in one month or I have three big weekend rides in one moneth the oil gets changed three times. If you ride a lot and in the dirt you should be changing oil quite often. I am changing the oil to keep it clean not because it is breaking down.


So, I have 10/40 for months that have an 'R' in them. 20/50 for months with a 'U' in them and 30 weight in May:p

:banghead: Beware of synthetic oil, it can do terrible things to you and your
beloved motorcycle. It will not only leak out of your engine faster
than you can put it in, but it will also cause your oil filter to
clog and implode, dumping debris and dirt into your lubrication
system. It also will make every part of your bike permanently
slippery because of its linear molecular chain dispersion action.
Then it will leak onto your kickstand causing it to retract
automatically, dropping your bike on the ground! But that's not all...

Synthetic oil will round off your gears and spin your bearings. It
will also splatter onto your seat causing your girlfriend to fall off
in the apex of a turn and she'll never ride with you again. Synthetic
oil coats your sight window and your timing window with a whitish
pro-emulsification additive that is both non-removable and highly
corrosive. Synthetic oil will completely leak onto the ground overnight
and your dog will drink it and die.

Synthetic oil will wear out your tires and make your battery leak. It
will give you the desperate need to urinate after you put your full
leathers on and then jam your zippers shut. It will contaminate your
gasoline causing your bike to stall on railroad tracks and accelerate
uncontrollably near police cars. It will make it rain during rallies
and on weekends. It will lubricate your timing belts causing them to
jump teeth and break your valves to bits. Synthetic oil chemically
weakens desmodromic valves and causes the clearances to change every
six miles. Then it melts the black soles of your riding boots right
before you walk across your new carpeting.

While riding past groups of attractive women it will cause both of
your handlebar grips to slip off at the same time so you smash your
windscreen with the bridge of your nose. It also causes your swingarm
to crack, your studs to break, and your rotors to warp, and then it
voids your warranty by changing your odometer reading to 55,555. It
also dries out your wetclutch and wets your dryclutch. It makes your
clutch slave cylinder seal fail in the heaviest traffic on the hottest
day of the year while putting an angry wasp in your helmet for good
measure.

Synthetic oil hides your 13mm socket and puts superglue on your
earplugs. Synthetic oil will scratch your faceshield and make your
gloves shrink two sizes night before trackday. Synthetic oil stole
your neutral and sold it to the Chinese for $1.25. Synthetic oil
will make you grow a tail. Synthetic oil will write long crazy
e-mails to your Internet friends and then sign your name at the
bottom!:busted:

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • martinfan30

Posted January 02, 2008 - 02:06 PM

#11

i knew it!


LMAO!

  • Denn10

Posted January 02, 2008 - 02:26 PM

#12

what a donkey!!!

you must like changing oil as much as talking about synthetic LOL

  • philipstjohn

Posted January 02, 2008 - 03:26 PM

#13

I thought if the bike was water cooled you only had to change the oil yearly? :banghead:

  • miguelitro

Posted January 02, 2008 - 04:15 PM

#14

I thought i was having problems the other day starting my bike due to "thick oil" Kicked the darn pig for about 20 minutes.

Then, i found that i hadnt removed my butt-plug(the one in the exhaust thank you)

  • philipstjohn

Posted January 02, 2008 - 04:26 PM

#15

I thought i was having problems the other day starting my bike due to "thick oil" Kicked the darn pig for about 20 minutes.

Then, i found that i hadnt removed my butt-plug(the one in the exhaust thank you)


Glad you helped me create a different visual!:banghead:

  • martinfan30

Posted January 02, 2008 - 07:42 PM

#16

I thought i was having problems the other day starting my bike due to "thick oil" Kicked the darn pig for about 20 minutes.

Then, i found that i hadnt removed my butt-plug(the one in the exhaust thank you)


guess you should have said differently!!lol

:banghead: :busted: :D :D

  • miguelitro

Posted January 02, 2008 - 09:28 PM

#17

Glad you helped me create a different visual!:bonk:


guess you should have said differently!!lol

:D :D :D :ride:


so what do you guys call those things?:banghead: :busted: :D :eek:

  • scalejockey

Posted January 03, 2008 - 05:43 AM

#18

exashsto corkoeious??

  • Nailpounder

Posted January 03, 2008 - 09:55 AM

#19

Tim McKittrick at ADVrider, who has a wealth of information I'd like to share:
This is the message:

The bike is pretty robust but suffers from inadequate oiling at start
up in cold temps. I will attach a reply as to the fix below- but you
could probably get by with running thinner than specified oils when the
temperture is below 45F and by insuring a good warm-up before riding the
bike.

Re: Oiling Mod for the XL600R

Hi Murgatroid- Here is a bit I wrote up a little while ago- it was
under an XR650L oil pressure thread if you want to see what else was there.
Yes, this is a mod you have to make your own parts for, but it really
isn't that hard if you have a little bit of experience with this sort of
thing. If it looks beyond your capabilities, I will be happy to add
more detail and answer any other questions. If you elect to leave things
as they are, I would reccomend you run a multiviscosity motor oil with
the lowest first number you can find coupled with the approperiate last
number- say a 5-50 or there abouts. Then make sure to warm your engine
completely before riding. I suspect that Honda changed the oil pump
volume as the years have gone on, but I still feel that the below is a
worthwhile mod. Good luck and let me know if I can be of further
assistance.
" I had a lot of problems with cams and rockers on my XL600R motor
(which has the same oiling system) - to the tune of five sets before I
figured it out. You may have had a high speed oiling problem but my trouble
was all start-up related. At lower temperatures (below 50 F) there is
insufficent oil flow to the head through the itty-bitty oil pipe,
leading to oil starvation and gallling. Once the engine produces a little
heat and thins the oil everything is just dandy. The result is your engine
runs for a few minutes with little or no oil to the head every time you
start it up. Much has been written about worn oil pumps and high flow
aftermarket replacement pumps, but there is a better way. I replaced the
line to the head with a piece of Aeroquip braided hose and a few 1/8"
NPT fittings into the case and head and ran the bike another 35,000
miles with nary a problem- and it only required valve adjustment once. And
this was using a high lift cam without hardened rockers
I only deduced the cause of the failures after a local aircraft
mechanic told me about a similar problem with Lycoming airplane engines-
unless properly pre-heated in the winter these engines would gall their cams
in exactly the same way as my Honda, only it cost a LOT more to fix.
After modifying my motor I began ice racing it (in temps down to -20F)
both to prove my alteration was valid and to have a way to play with
bikes in the winter.
I think the oiling to the head is insufficent on all of the Honda RFVC
engines and I would not run one without making the change. I've
modified three engines and none of them have had a subsquent cam or rocker
problem. It's relatively cheap and easy to do, and you will never have to
worry about the top end ever again."

Also this from "XR600 Race cam"

"The quick answer- you tap the case and head to a 1/8" pipe thread and
use a standard pipe to flare fitting (90 drgree bend at the head and a
45 at the case) and attatch the two with a larger pipe- I used Aeroquip
braided stainless hose on all of the engines I've done as it was
available at my local supplier- but you could just as easily use soft copper
and buy all of the parts at Home Depot.
The object is to increase flow by enlarging the pipe- you are replacing
the tiny supply pipe that Honda still fits to all of it's XR600/650
engines. There are some built in restrictions when using the off the shelf
fittings so I don't think you will be in danger of using a pipe that is
too large. I also increased the preload on the oil pump over pressure
spring by streching it about 20%- primarily to increase available
pressure when the engine is cold, (start-up) which seems to be when the most
damage happens.
Be careful when taping the case cover and installing the fitting as the
case is a magnesium alloy and there is not a lot of material there- it
is possible to crack the case and then you will have to make a few
weird parts to set things right- if it comes to that I an send you a few
diagrams. NPT is a tapered jam fit and forces material apart when
tightened- so you need to just get it snug enough to seal. If you apply a wrap
of teflon tape you may not have to tighten it as much to get the seal
you need.
I suppose it would be possible to do all of this with the engine
intact- but I would reccomend taking it apart to make sure no shavings or
chips get into the motor. I also had very good results from polishing the
contact points on the sub rockers where the tappet adjusters hit- use a
sharpening stone to flatten out any grooving or pitting from the
adjuster tip and then buff to a mirror finish. If you can, do the same to the
tips of the adjusters as well. Use a hand stone and don't over heat
things so you maintain the proper tempering. I did my adjusters in a
unimat lathe so I could maintain the radius of the tip- but a drill press
set to it's lowest speed would work as well. This allows you to set the
tappet clearances more accurately, reduces running friction, and reduces
tappet noise.
The last area of failure on these engines is the little end bearing on
the connecting rod- if you find yours has worn significantly the best
bet is to replace the rod (you will need to have a machine shop do this)
with a "hot rods" kit from XR's only or White Brothers. These rods have
a bushed little end which will take more abuse as well as an additional
oiling hole- and the oiling holes are larger. If you want to make a
full house racing motor you can opt for a Carillo rod, but I think the
"hot rod" will suffice for most applications."

  • Nailpounder

Posted January 03, 2008 - 10:04 AM

#20

another bit of info,
That is great information. I was also suspect as to the volume that the "little chrome pipe" can move. What I found out is that the two oil feed bolts are different. One has a large orifice drilled for it's port, and one has a small, less than 1/8", hole drilled. I opened both of them up to increase flow. But, I will look into running a braided line to the head. This winter (WI) I will start the bike from dead cold with an inspection/adjustment cover off to see if it produces the immediate shower of oil that I am getting now. Thanks, and good riding.





Related Content

Forums
Photo

ignitech programmable XR650L CDI by brianhare


Dirt Bike   Make / Model Specific   Honda   XR600/650
  • Hot  60 replies
Reviews

Honda XR650L 2016 by Chris.GVS


Honda XR650L 2016
  • - - - - -
  • 0 reviews
Forums
Photo

Engine Loping/Sputtering by tcaldwell


Dirt Bike   Make / Model Specific   Honda   XR600/650
  • 2 replies
Forums
Photo

Fell Off Trailer by usafxr


Dirt Bike   Make / Model Specific   Honda   XR600/650
  • Hot  43 replies
Forums
Photo

DirttyPig 2005 Xr650l Prroject! by braapmebb1moretime


Dirt Bike   Make / Model Specific   Honda   XR600/650
  • 22 replies
 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.