Rekluse Concern


57 replies to this topic
  • 080

Posted December 28, 2007 - 12:17 PM

#1

I installed the Z-Start on my 07' 450 and have noticed the clutch getting hot to the point I can smell the oil when stopped. I've checked the gap, perch bypass etc... and everything is in check. I also have this on my 2strk and I never smell the oil other than if I was real hard on it somthing. Do you smell the oil more on the 4strks than the 2's. I'm just wondering if I should be concerned or if this is normal as I've had this set up on three bikes now without any issues.

  • ncmountainman

Posted December 30, 2007 - 07:54 AM

#2

try two2cool, its a oil additive available here on TT. i've used it for yrs and will stake my questionable reputation on it:busted:

  • 642MX

Posted January 01, 2008 - 08:25 AM

#3

try two2cool, its a oil additive available here on TT. i've used it for yrs and will stake my questionable reputation on it:busted:


I'll second the two2cool. It dropped my oil temp 15 degrees on the clutch cover. Its not cheap, but it works great with auto-clutches. :banghead:

  • 080

Posted January 02, 2008 - 04:50 AM

#4

I will try this and see, but does the oil in the 4strk run hotter than the 2strk? I don't want to just bandade the situation if there is an actual problem.

  • grayracer513

Posted January 02, 2008 - 07:24 AM

#5

Two-stroke trans oil is heated only by the trans and clutch. The oil in your YZF is also heated by the engine, mostly the piston and cylinder, so you have heat coming from more than double the number of sources it would in the case of a pinger. Add an auto clutch, which slips a lot more often in a bike used in the woods, and you have hot oil. Furthermore, if you are a Rotella user, you should be aware that that oil has a reputation for being odoriferous when heated. "Ro-Smella" is what some call it.

  • 080

Posted January 02, 2008 - 07:51 AM

#6

Two-stroke trans oil is heated only by the trans and clutch. The oil in your YZF is also heated by the engine, mostly the piston and cylinder, so you have heat coming from more than double the number of sources it would in the case of a pinger. Add an auto clutch, which slips a lot more often in a bike used in the woods, and you have hot oil. Furthermore, if you are a Rotella user, you should be aware that that oil has a reputation for being odoriferous when heated. "Ro-Smella" is what some call it.


Ro-Smella, now thats funny, and exactly what I was refering to. It's what I'm using because that's what Rekluse recomends but after the information you gave out concerning the JASO standards etc.. has me wanting to change to a different oil. The way you explained it is that the Rotella breaks down to quikly and needs to be changed after every ride. It's obvious that their testing favored the auto clutch but what about the motor/tranmission. If you could guess on the reasoning they picked the Rotella over the the others and could suggest an oil that would work best for all, what would it be?

  • jeffboyd47m

Posted January 02, 2008 - 07:56 AM

#7

I have been running Castrol R4 with my Rekluse for the last year with good results.

  • grayracer513

Posted January 02, 2008 - 08:02 AM

#8

The reason has to be that the specific behavior of the oil and clutch together gives them the results that make the most customers happy with the operation of the Rekluse. If you experiment with other oils, you'll want to note whether the stall rpm of your clutch changes, and whether it engages smoothly. You would not want to use an oil that raised your stall RPM (the point at which the clutch engages) significantly, because that would dictate higher engagement pressure while slipping, and increase clutch wear).

I don't know how the Amsoil I'm currently using will fare in terms of stall speed, but I know that the manual clutches in all my YZF's work beautifully with it.

  • Wiz636

Posted January 02, 2008 - 09:28 AM

#9

I use Mobile 1 Racing 4T in both my 450 and my 426 (both with Rekluse) and it works just fine. I used to run Rotella based on Rekluse's recommendation but it stinks and needs to be changed much more than the synthetic.

  • 080

Posted January 02, 2008 - 10:18 AM

#10

Thanks for the responses, I am going to price the three and go with one of them.

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  • grayracer513

Posted January 02, 2008 - 10:43 AM

#11

Thanks for the responses, I am going to price the three and go with one of them.

As far as the price of Amsoil is concerned, what I do is pay the $20 annual fee for preferred customer status, which gets you a significant discount on not only the oil, but on other stuff they sell, such as Twin Air filters and NGK plugs. Not considering any of those latter items I might buy during the year, that brings the net cost of a quart to about $7.80, delivered to my doorstep. MCF or MCV are the only two of their oils I recommend, since they are the only two that I know for certain are actually formulated for use in transmissions. Not saying that none of their other oils won't work, just that I don't know they will.

  • 642MX

Posted January 02, 2008 - 04:29 PM

#12

Remember guys, Rekluse does not recommend any synthetics to be used with their auto clutch.

I use to use Motorex 10W50 and was getting some clutch chatter from both bikes. I switched to Rotella, and the problem went away.

The guys at Rekluse are engineers and I trust what they say. Changing your oil every ride isn't that big of a deal, it only takes 10 minutes.

  • grunkthump

Posted January 02, 2008 - 06:22 PM

#13

how about a semi-syn??

  • 642MX

Posted January 02, 2008 - 06:49 PM

#14

how about a semi-syn??


Nope. Rekluse only recommends dino 15W40's...like Rotella or Delo

  • grayracer513

Posted January 02, 2008 - 08:20 PM

#15

Remember guys, Rekluse does not recommend any synthetics to be used with their auto clutch.

I use to use Motorex 10W50 and was getting some clutch chatter from both bikes. I switched to Rotella, and the problem went away.

And yet...

I use Mobile 1 Racing 4T in both my 450 and my 426 (both with Rekluse) and it works just fine. I used to run Rotella based on Rekluse's recommendation but it stinks and needs to be changed much more than the synthetic.

...we have other opinions, based on practical experience.

There is no justification for the belief that Rotella is the only oil that will work with a Rekluse. The only issues in oil selection, other than compliance with grade and viscosity, are those I mentioned earlier; the clutch will either perform well, or it won't. The same thing occasionally comes up manual clutches, and it's useful to remember that a Rekluse is simply an alternative means of engaging and disengaging an otherwise basically stock clutch. The recommendation of Rotella is, IMO, a known value that the company is familiar with, and about which they can make statements that they know will be true.

As for their status as engineers, while I respect what that means in essence, a tremendous amount of my 33 year professional career was spent correcting the work of engineers. The title by itself doesn't carry a good deal of weight with me, sorry to say.

  • 642MX

Posted January 02, 2008 - 08:28 PM

#16

I agree that some may have good luck with using sythetics with the Rekluses, but I was just pointing out that its against the manufactures recommendation. :busted:

Like I said before, I too, used a sythetic with the a/c, but it created problems that where solved by an oil that costs the same price per gallon as most sythetics are per quart. :banghead:

  • grayracer513

Posted January 02, 2008 - 09:27 PM

#17

All synthetics are not the same simply because they are synthetics, any more than all petro oils are the same because of their non-synthetic base stock. Obviously, the M1 Racing 4T that Wiz is using performs better with a Rekluse than your Motorex did.

Rotella is indeed inexpensive, and a basically good oil, but some may want to look for an alternative that holds its grade longer.

  • Wiz636

Posted January 03, 2008 - 09:27 AM

#18

I remember seeing the Rotella recommendation with the paperwork for the old style Rekluse but I don't recall seeing it mentioned with the new z-start pro clutch. Either way, as Gray mentioned the clutch pack is essentially the same with the difference only being in the way the clutch is modulated, i.e., the centrifugal forcing of the balls up the ramp(s) that pushes the friction plates together vs the clutch springs. I don't see how either type of oil would affect that operation enough to notice a difference.

  • 080

Posted January 03, 2008 - 09:47 AM

#19

Rotella is indeed inexpensive, and a basically good oil, but some may want to look for an alternative that holds its grade longer.


This is the other reason I am checking into an altenate oil. I was looking at the Castrol ACT-EVO 4strk and Mobile 1 V-twin. The Castrol meets API SG-JASO MA as well as the Mobile but the Mobile also meets JASO SH,CF,CD and specifies for use in wet clutch's. I think I will try the Mobile and see how it does and if it works I'll only be paying about 2 dollars more per gallon than that of the Rotella. Also I can put a few more hrs on in between oil changes which will save money right there.

  • grayracer513

Posted January 03, 2008 - 10:45 AM

#20

As you read the labels bear this in mind; there is no API engine oil grade that implies an ability to retain viscosity in extremes of shear, such as a gear lube would experience, and so, there is nothing you can learn from any of those grade specifications that will give you any information as to the oils durability in that regard. JASO MA/MA1/MA2 are supposed to include some measure of consideration for this, but even the actual presence of the words, "Certified JASO MA" don't necessarily give you an indication of anything more than the fact that the oil is an equivalent of API SG/SH, and is suitable for a wet clutch.

The only thing I have seen on anyone's label that definitively states that the oil inside can stand being a trans oil is "API GL-1", indicating the oil inside is, among other things, a legitimate 75w-90 gear oil (the SAE grades for gear oils are different that for engine oils). This appears only on the label of Amsoil MCF and MCV to the best of my knowledge.

Otherwise, your stuck with either published lab tests or your own UOA's to find out.





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