Build a wheel from scratch and have it on your bike in 90 minutes

Brake Tires & Wheels

75 replies to this topic
  • chadk66

Posted 12 December 2008 - 02:28 PM

#61

How come all my spokes are the same length?

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  • chuck4788

Posted 12 December 2008 - 04:10 PM

#62

Yokomo said:

Good info and pics.   Thank you!
Anyone know how much a shop usually charges for the trueing?
thanks

Buchanan charges $25 for a loose lace and $97 for lace and true.

  • Yokomo

Posted 12 December 2008 - 06:12 PM

#63

Dang, that's more than I expected that service to be.  If I get new spokes someday, I'll try to learn for $200.

  • Berm-Saw

Posted 29 December 2008 - 08:02 PM

#64

what do you mean by "grease your spokes"

  • OLHILLBILLY

Posted 29 December 2008 - 08:27 PM

#65

Berm-Saw said:

what do you mean by "grease your spokes"
The threads that screw into the spoke nipples. Copper anti seize works pretty well or you can get spoke nipple lube at a bicycle shop. Bicycle stuff is pretty pricy though.

  • Centrespike

Posted 30 December 2008 - 06:08 AM

#66

Berm-Saw said:

what do you mean by "grease your spokes"

Also, put a little grease where the nipple contacts the rim so when you start truing each nipple will turn smoothly allowing for minute adjustments to get your rim exactly true.

  • CRF420X

Posted 15 June 2009 - 11:47 AM

#67

AgentSmith's write on wheel building is pretty much as good as it gets IMHO. Many pics as well.

http://www.crfsonly....pic.php?t=13015

  • manson3161

Posted 15 June 2009 - 02:05 PM

#68

F1ED said:

Heres gas in your tank:applause: :lol:  Thats one one of the best "How to's" I've ever seen.:thumbsup: :lol:

Yes very nice thread bro dont know if i will lace my own but if i do i know where to look thanks

  • greco3x

Posted 01 July 2009 - 07:12 AM

#69

i learned by doing my own bmx wheels, bmx wheels are harder because the rim is way thinner and weaker and you can get a hop or bend in it way easier, and once the spokes are tight at a certain point its so hard to fix it, now with mx wheels the rims are super strong and wont really bend out.

  • coreyair

Posted 21 July 2009 - 11:08 PM

#70

Good stuff here. :banana: :worthy:

  • Aaron_Silidker

Posted 21 July 2009 - 11:54 PM

#71

chuck4788 said:

Buchanan charges $25 for a loose lace and $97 for lace and true.

That is the most insane thing I have ever heard.  It takes me about 20 minutes to lace and true and wheel with new parts.  

Lubing the rim where the nipple touches it helps tremendously while doing the final tighten on the wheel as well as having accurate torque readings when torquing the spokes.

  • achap

Posted 28 September 2009 - 02:40 PM

#72

how many of you use a torque wrench to tighten the spokes?  How plausible is it to do the job without one?

what types of grease are you all using on your spokes/nipples?

one more question... how important are new spokes?  can I just use my old ones?


thanks.  :busted:

  • achap

Posted 04 October 2009 - 10:36 AM

#73

achap said:

how many of you use a torque wrench to tighten the spokes?  How plausible is it to do the job without one?

what types of grease are you all using on your spokes/nipples?

one more question... how important are new spokes?  can I just use my old ones?


thanks.  :busted:

anyone???  hearing crickets over here...

if you are using a torque wrench, what torque setting is appropriate???

thanks

  • Vaporandfrontrotor

Posted 04 October 2009 - 11:41 AM

#74

achap said:

how many of you use a torque wrench to tighten the spokes?  How plausible is it to do the job without one?

what types of grease are you all using on your spokes/nipples?

one more question... how important are new spokes?  can I just use my old ones?


thanks.  :busted:

ill try. its better than nothing, which is what you have received so far...

1. a torque wrench isnt necessary, but it is highly recommended and pays itself off very fast.

2. doesnt matter, grease is grease.

3. new spokes are very important, the nipple threads probably stretch, and the piece that goes into the hub probably also received damage over time. its cheaper and better in the long run to replace everything, and do it properly the first time or dont do it at all, because chances are, you will be doing it again (hopefully properly this time) in the very near future if you half ass it.

  • achap

Posted 04 October 2009 - 11:51 AM

#75

Vaporandfrontrotor said:

ill try. its better than nothing, which is what you have received so far...

1. a torque wrench isnt necessary, but it is highly recommended and pays itself off very fast.

2. doesnt matter, grease is grease.

3. new spokes are very important, the nipple threads probably stretch, and the piece that goes into the hub probably also received damage over time. its cheaper and better in the long run to replace everything, and do it properly the first time or dont do it at all, because chances are, you will be doing it again (hopefully properly this time) in the very near future if you half ass it.

thanks for the reply... any idea how much to torque the spokes down to?

  • Vaporandfrontrotor

Posted 04 October 2009 - 12:40 PM

#76

achap said:

thanks for the reply... any idea how much to torque the spokes down to?

no I dont, but a quick, 2 second google search provided me with this info:

48 inch-pounds is the correct torque for spokes on a dirt bike.

you mostly want to do a tone test also, to make sure they all make the same "ping" sound.





 
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