Build a wheel from scratch and have it on your bike in 90 minutes
Posted 12 December 2008 - 04:10 PM
Yokomo said:
Anyone know how much a shop usually charges for the trueing?
thanks
Buchanan charges $25 for a loose lace and $97 for lace and true.
Posted 12 December 2008 - 06:12 PM
Posted 29 December 2008 - 08:27 PM
Berm-Saw said:
Posted 30 December 2008 - 06:08 AM
Berm-Saw said:
Also, put a little grease where the nipple contacts the rim so when you start truing each nipple will turn smoothly allowing for minute adjustments to get your rim exactly true.
Posted 15 June 2009 - 11:47 AM
http://www.crfsonly....pic.php?t=13015
Posted 15 June 2009 - 02:05 PM
F1ED said:
Yes very nice thread bro dont know if i will lace my own but if i do i know where to look thanks
Posted 01 July 2009 - 07:12 AM
Posted 21 July 2009 - 11:54 PM
chuck4788 said:
That is the most insane thing I have ever heard. It takes me about 20 minutes to lace and true and wheel with new parts.
Lubing the rim where the nipple touches it helps tremendously while doing the final tighten on the wheel as well as having accurate torque readings when torquing the spokes.
Posted 28 September 2009 - 02:40 PM
what types of grease are you all using on your spokes/nipples?
one more question... how important are new spokes? can I just use my old ones?
thanks.
Posted 04 October 2009 - 10:36 AM
achap said:
what types of grease are you all using on your spokes/nipples?
one more question... how important are new spokes? can I just use my old ones?
thanks.
anyone??? hearing crickets over here...
if you are using a torque wrench, what torque setting is appropriate???
thanks
Posted 04 October 2009 - 11:41 AM
achap said:
what types of grease are you all using on your spokes/nipples?
one more question... how important are new spokes? can I just use my old ones?
thanks.
ill try. its better than nothing, which is what you have received so far...
1. a torque wrench isnt necessary, but it is highly recommended and pays itself off very fast.
2. doesnt matter, grease is grease.
3. new spokes are very important, the nipple threads probably stretch, and the piece that goes into the hub probably also received damage over time. its cheaper and better in the long run to replace everything, and do it properly the first time or dont do it at all, because chances are, you will be doing it again (hopefully properly this time) in the very near future if you half ass it.
Posted 04 October 2009 - 11:51 AM
Vaporandfrontrotor said:
1. a torque wrench isnt necessary, but it is highly recommended and pays itself off very fast.
2. doesnt matter, grease is grease.
3. new spokes are very important, the nipple threads probably stretch, and the piece that goes into the hub probably also received damage over time. its cheaper and better in the long run to replace everything, and do it properly the first time or dont do it at all, because chances are, you will be doing it again (hopefully properly this time) in the very near future if you half ass it.
thanks for the reply... any idea how much to torque the spokes down to?
Posted 04 October 2009 - 12:40 PM
achap said:
no I dont, but a quick, 2 second google search provided me with this info:
48 inch-pounds is the correct torque for spokes on a dirt bike.
you mostly want to do a tone test also, to make sure they all make the same "ping" sound.








