Does anyone know on the rear of a '02 Honda CR250 what length spokes goes where? I tooks some pictures and offset measurements, but I forgot to check where the 205mm and 209mm spokes go. I can't find anything in the manual. Most websites show how to replace the rim, leaving the stock spokes in place.
Build a wheel from scratch and have it on your bike in 90 minutes
Started by
KJ790
, Dec 15 2007 02:43 PM
Brake Tires & Wheels
75 replies to this topic
Posted 28 January 2008 - 06:03 PM
TK HRC151 said:
Does anyone know on the rear of a '02 Honda CR250 what length spokes goes where? I tooks some pictures and offset measurements, but I forgot to check where the 205mm and 209mm spokes go. I can't find anything in the manual. Most websites show how to replace the rim, leaving the stock spokes in place.
Measure the from the center of the hub to the edge of the spoke hole. The shorter distance will require the longer spoke.
Posted 28 January 2008 - 06:43 PM
TK HRC151 said:
Does anyone know on the rear of a '02 Honda CR250 what length spokes goes where? I tooks some pictures and offset measurements, but I forgot to check where the 205mm and 209mm spokes go. I can't find anything in the manual. Most websites show how to replace the rim, leaving the stock spokes in place.
The longer spokes are for the inside holes (those closer to the center of the hub), the shorter for the outside holes (those closer to the edge of the hub).
Posted 02 February 2008 - 02:12 PM
good stuff. this would also go well in the Technical Articles & Tips Section
Posted 11 February 2008 - 12:20 PM
KJ, I just did your method for truing and it worked perfectly. Awesome write up man. I've been struggling trying to get this truing down and your way has made the most sense and was easy to follow.
here is my question though. my rim still moves a bit in one area. it wobbles up about 2 mm then drops back down and stays consistent for the rest of the 3/4 way's around the rim. Is this little bump okay? I've been trying to get the thing perfect but am having a hard time. plus, my wheel isn't new, its been on the bike for a long time now. will I be able to get the rim laser straight even though it is an old rim? are your rims perfect when you finish truing them (it doesn't move at all anywhere)? Thanks.
here is my question though. my rim still moves a bit in one area. it wobbles up about 2 mm then drops back down and stays consistent for the rest of the 3/4 way's around the rim. Is this little bump okay? I've been trying to get the thing perfect but am having a hard time. plus, my wheel isn't new, its been on the bike for a long time now. will I be able to get the rim laser straight even though it is an old rim? are your rims perfect when you finish truing them (it doesn't move at all anywhere)? Thanks.
Posted 11 February 2008 - 12:25 PM
With a used rim it will be very hard, more like impossible to get it absolutely perfect. I don't think you would ever feel 2mm on a dirtbike wheel. Even rims that are brand new are not perfect. When I do them I get them to within about 1mm if I can, but with a used rim 2mm is probably as close as you will get. I wouldn't worry about it. Just make sure you check your spokes regularly because spokes have a tendency of seating in and loosening up.
Posted 11 February 2008 - 01:25 PM
KJ790 said:
With a used rim it will be very hard, more like impossible to get it absolutely perfect. I don't think you would ever feel 2mm on a dirtbike wheel. Even rims that are brand new are not perfect. When I do them I get them to within about 1mm if I can, but with a used rim 2mm is probably as close as you will get. I wouldn't worry about it. Just make sure you check your spokes regularly because spokes have a tendency of seating in and loosening up.
great, thanks. with checking the spokes, i'll go around the rim, mark the loose ones, then tighten all the loose ones each a little at a time? or is there a certain way to do it.
Posted 11 February 2008 - 01:27 PM
That's fine, since the wheel is mainly tight now, tightening a couple here and there shouldn't affect the wheel too much (unless you really crank one down).
Posted 11 February 2008 - 01:54 PM
Great how-to, im gonna build a set of wheels soon, this will help!
Posted 12 February 2008 - 10:35 AM
great write up. I tried giving you gas but it wouldnt let me, Ill getcha soon though. Im getting my wheels painted and was second guessing doing so because I didnt want to pay my shop $45 a wheel to re lace.
Im wondering if it would be better to buy new spokes or re use my stockers?
Im wondering if it would be better to buy new spokes or re use my stockers?
Posted 12 February 2008 - 02:28 PM
kennedy327 said:
great write up. I tried giving you gas but it wouldnt let me, Ill getcha soon though. Im getting my wheels painted and was second guessing doing so because I didnt want to pay my shop $45 a wheel to re lace.
Im wondering if it would be better to buy new spokes or re use my stockers?
Im wondering if it would be better to buy new spokes or re use my stockers?
It is best to use new spokes, however if the bike is almost new you can get away with reusing the stock spokes. If the spokes are old then a lot of corrosion builds up between the spoke and the nipple and messes up the threads, so you would want new spokes. This is why you want to grease the threads of the spokes when you lace it.
Posted 12 February 2008 - 03:35 PM
A few more tips-
Use high pressure grease on the threads and underneath the head of the nipple.
Get the spokes just tight enough to where the wheel doesnt wobble and have play. Then true it. While truing, use small changes. Take your time, move slowly until you get better.
While doing the final tighten tighten ALL the spokes a little bit. Use a piece of tape to mark the start spoke. After one lap, retrue. Tighten a little more, check and retrue. Keep on going like this until they are all tight. You may have to loosen some that are already tight to move the rim then retighten.
Practice makes perfect, I can do a rim in no time flat. Usually about 15 minutes to lace and true, and under 10 to true unless it is a really difficult one.
Use high pressure grease on the threads and underneath the head of the nipple.
Get the spokes just tight enough to where the wheel doesnt wobble and have play. Then true it. While truing, use small changes. Take your time, move slowly until you get better.
While doing the final tighten tighten ALL the spokes a little bit. Use a piece of tape to mark the start spoke. After one lap, retrue. Tighten a little more, check and retrue. Keep on going like this until they are all tight. You may have to loosen some that are already tight to move the rim then retighten.
Practice makes perfect, I can do a rim in no time flat. Usually about 15 minutes to lace and true, and under 10 to true unless it is a really difficult one.
Posted 16 February 2008 - 01:52 PM
gokawi03 said:
where in NY are you?
I'm in New Hartford, near Utica.
Posted 03 March 2008 - 02:30 PM
KJ, Very nice job on the write up. I built my first set of wheels by this, Excel wheels/spoke onto stock Honda hubs for my son. I had excellent results! I did the rear first, took a bit of patience. By the time I did the front, it was cake!!! It went fast & easy! I will never pay some one to do this, & neither should anyone that can handle their maintenance chores.
Gas for you friend. Thanks for the excellent job on sharing your knowledge.
Gas for you friend. Thanks for the excellent job on sharing your knowledge.
