Jump to content

  • Follow us:

  • Facebook
  • YouTube
  • Twitter
  • Google+
  • RSS Feed



Featured Sponsors

Scotts Performance Wiseco
Damage Goods OEM Motorcycle/ATV Parts

- - - - -

KDX200/220 Jetting Database


  • Please log in to reply

118 replies to this topic
  • hi_im_sean

    Get Help Now

6781 posts
Location: Arizona

Posted 02 December 2007 - 09:52 PM


The drz forum has one, so lets have one for the kdx. it would really help a  lot of people out.
PLEASE POST IN THE FOLLOWING FORMAT:

year
model- 200 or 220
conditions where you ride- altitude and temp
engine modifacations you have done
pilot jet
main jet
needle number/type and clip posistion (clip position is from the top of the needle as it is mounted in the carburetor, top being #1)
air screw turns out
hows it working for you?

someone make this a sticky!!!

  • hi_im_sean

    Get Help Now

6781 posts
Location: Arizona

Posted 02 December 2007 - 09:54 PM


ill go first

1998
kdx200
arizona 1200-300 ft, 60-110 degrees F
stock engine and pipe, uni filter
PJ-42
MJ-155
stock needle on 3rd position
airscrew is about 1.5 turns out
runs pretty good, seems a litlle rich still though

  • KDXer

    TT Bronze Member

180 posts
Location: Washington

Posted 03 December 2007 - 01:37 PM


2000
200
Washington state, 0-6500ft, 32f-90f
FMF Desert pipe and TC-II, power reeds, FRP torque spacer
RB carb and head, modded airbox lid
PJ-38
MJ-152
CEK or CEL needle, can't remember, will check my notes
Air screw near the SSS ~ 2.75 turns out

Runs fat at high altitude, runs good at sealevel, the thumb adjustable air screw from RB really makes quick adjustments easy.  I got a little bit of mid-throttle detonation during a 24hr race at night when the temps dropped in the 20's.   Never fouls plugs, spooges a bit.

  • crf_kdx

    TT Newbie

13 posts
Location: Kentucky

Posted 03 December 2007 - 09:37 PM


year: 2005
model: 200
Eastern Kentucky // 900 ft +- 300 // year 'round

engine mods
Wiseco Standard Piston & Rings
Airbox lid: snorkle removed, ten 1/2" holes drilled
Boyesen 607 Reeds
UNI Air Filter w/ No Toil Oil
FMF Gold Series “Gnarly Woods” w/ stock silencer

pilot jet: 42 (>50 degrees) // 45 (<50 degrees)
main jet: 150 (>50 degrees) // 152 (<50 degrees)
needle number/type and clip: CEL-2 (>50 degrees) // DEL-3 (<50 degrees)

  • adam728

    TT Addict

4761 posts
Location: Michigan

Posted 04 December 2007 - 02:09 PM


It's gone now, but here is where I was at

year: 2003
model: 220
Southern Arizona // 600-3500 ft

engine mods
  • Wiseco Standard Piston & Rings
  • Airbox lid: snorkle removed, ~2"x4" hole cut
  • FMF torque reeds
  • Twin Air filter
  • FMF rev pipe and Turbine Core II silencer (sometimes stocker)
  • 36mm bored carb
  • Fredette Racing porting and modifed head
pilot jet: 42
main jet:
  • 2500-3500 ft, 90F+, 152 main
  • 2500-3500 ft, 50-90F, 155 main
  • 600-2500 ft, 90F+, 155 main
  • 600-2500 ft, 50-90F, 158 main (although I usually left the 155 main in, when it's that hot out I die, and having 1 more hp doesn't matter)
  • Dunes, 600 ft, 175 main (that's right! Even at 170 I could get the thing boiling and starting to detonate)
needle number/type and clip:
  • Most riding - Stock, 2nd clip
  • Dunes - Stock, 4th clip (or I would get mid range deto once really hot)
Slide - stock


I probably should have been running a higher octane fuel in the dunes, I always used pump 91. On trails and even in faster/sandy wide open desert it was fine. But in the dunes I would be holding it wide open for a long time on end and getting the engine really hot. Playing with timing helped a little, but going real rich is what I needed to keep the thing alive. Made great power with those jets, but if you putted fo even 15-20 seconds it felt like the plug wanted to foul when trying to get back up on pipe, even though I never touched the pilot.

  • Yamajeb

    TT Gold Member

1104 posts
Location: Kentucky

Posted 12 December 2007 - 07:32 PM


Don't give up - give it some time and bump it every once in a while if you have to . . .

2003 220
MODS: no airbox lid; RB-modified carb (bored to 36mm, divider plate, etc); Dual Stage Reeds; RB-mod head shaped for race gas (run 50/50 VP110/pump); timing is slightly retarded; 12/45 gearing with a 110/100 Pirelli in the rear; FMF rev-profile pipe

JETTING: for colder temps, 150MJ, 40PJ, CEK w/clip @ #4; warmer temps 148MJ, 38PJ, CEK w/clip @ #3; A/S range 2+5/16 (tweaking all the time).

PERFORMANCE: Very strong pull but not violent like a 250; easy to ride; quite powerful and fast in my opinion; bike revs much better with the RB mods (particularly with the race gas head); very easy to get the front wheel up

  • cleoent

    TT Bronze Member

224 posts
Location: California

Posted 12 December 2007 - 07:43 PM


2001 KDX 220

Stock air filter, full pipe/silencer, boysen dual stage reeds

California weather 50-100 degree weather, 500-4200 ft above sea level

Main jet 142
Pilot 42
clip on the 2nd from the top
NGK BR8EG plug

Bike runs awesome!!!

  • art5

    TT Titanium Member

2243 posts
Location: Missouri

Posted 12 December 2007 - 07:45 PM


220 hybrid kdx 05 motor
150 main
42 pilot
6.0 slide
needle can't remember runnin on 2nd clip from the top
35mm 200 carb,
pro circuit platinum pipe
pro circuit 250 kx 304 silencer,
13/47 gearing
Motor has a nice pull from bottom all the way to the top, does not flatten out, stock gearing, 1st and second very short, motor still very torquey but has a long spread of power.

  • hi_im_sean

    Get Help Now

6781 posts
Location: Arizona

Posted 18 December 2007 - 08:17 PM


another bumb

  • ebeck

    Get Help Now

6573 posts
Location: Arizona

Posted 19 December 2007 - 08:01 AM


AZ, 90-105 degree, 5% humidity Summer jetting

KDX200 / new motor
Main jet 142 (and I still spooge and blow white smoke too)
Pilot 42
clip in the middle
NGK BR8ES plug


Too lazy to change jetting for winter LOL.

  • cochran03

    TT Bronze Member

111 posts
Location: Missouri

Posted 21 December 2007 - 07:29 AM


1997 KDX 220
1000 ft +/- 200ft
33mm Keihin
135 main
2nd clip from top of needle
40 pilot

Mods:
Boysen power reeds
FMF Gnarley (woods) pipe
FMF Turbine Core II
Removed Airbox Lid

Missouri Weather (hard to explain)
110 to -10 F
30 to 95 % humidity (happens in all in one day occasionally)

I know it sounds a little lean, but man it runs strong!!

  • art5

    TT Titanium Member

2243 posts
Location: Missouri

Posted 21 December 2007 - 06:20 PM


sounds really lean mine has a 150 main and a 42 pilot

  • krazyinski

    TT Platinum Member

1580 posts
Location: Texas

Posted 22 December 2007 - 03:46 AM


was a
2000 KDX 220
700ft

Jetting
pilot 42
main 158
needle CGM on the 3rd

MODS
FRP
cylinder: plated, ported
head: squish band milled
CARB: bored from 33mm to36mm

Other bolt on mods

FMF rev pipe
VForce 3 reeds
Steathly 10oz fww

Performs like a four stroke, with a short power band,makes the bike feel lighter, D needles change it to more mellow power, easy to run a gear high.
will flat out kick but on anything in slippery muddy conditions.
plug runs mocha pipe runs charcoal with minor spooge on wake up does more aggressive spooging on drastic temp swings 20-30 degs in a few hours.

  • F22RAPTOR

    TT Bronze Member

256 posts
Location: North Carolina

Posted 28 December 2007 - 06:27 AM


2000 KDX 220, flat at sealevel

airbox lid on, snorkle on

42 pilot
145 main
stock needle on second down clip position.

crisp throttle response down low, awesome pull on top. I'm expecting my new full FMF knarly pipe with power core 2 slip on to arrive next wednesday, I plan on keeping the lid on and snorkle on and just adjust from there, not worth the potential risk for meltdown removing the lid.

  • j753301

    TT Bronze Member

263 posts
Location: Massachusetts

Posted 03 January 2008 - 08:17 PM


1994
kdx200
300ft.  
42 pilot
155 main
clip on number 3 position
about 2 and a quarter to half on the air screw


mods: fmf fatty pipe and fmf silencer,athena piston kit,hot rod,smoothed and bored carb,no airbox lid,uni filter.

it only has about 10 hours on it but the bike runs great.plug is perfect.no boggs anywhere and pulls from bottom to top.best bike ive owned!

  • F22RAPTOR

    TT Bronze Member

256 posts
Location: North Carolina

Posted 04 January 2008 - 04:10 PM


Just insalled the FMF Knarly Pipe, and Power Core 2 silencer and man the 42 pilot and 145 main is perfect, air lid is still on and snorkle in place, throttle response is alot better, It honestly feels like an improvement all the way across the board, very crisp and responsive, bottom, mid and topend. Also looks awesome. Ive just rekindled the old flame for the 220!:busted: :banghead:

  • hi_im_sean

    Get Help Now

6781 posts
Location: Arizona

Posted 05 January 2008 - 02:28 PM


F22RAPTOR said:

Just insalled the FMF Knarly Pipe, and Power Core 2 silencer and man the 42 pilot and 145 main is perfect, air lid is still on and snorkle in place, throttle response is alot better, It honestly feels like an improvement all the way across the board, very crisp and responsive, bottom, mid and topend. Also looks awesome. Ive just rekindled the old flame for the 220!:busted: :banghead:

i think i need to drop the main down. seeing everyones post, almost all are leaner than mine with mods... and im stock. im running a 155, maybve ill try a 148-150. the top always felt kinda flat, never fouls a plug though

  • surfagoody

    TT Member

32 posts
Location: Utah

Posted 05 January 2008 - 04:49 PM


02 Kdx 220 pilot 45 main 140 needle 2nd pos. this is utah 5500 ft elevation and 50 deg. Gnarly pipe v-force reeds and fmf turbine 2 muff. If temps drop I go 1st on neddle. tough place for jetting. I enjoy everyones temps alltitude and mods it really helps.:banghead:

  • bmcd308

    TT Bronze Member

260 posts
Location: Tennessee

Posted 06 January 2008 - 04:50 PM


My goal is to be a touch on the rich side of perfect, since I would rather give up some power for some reliability.

06 KDX200 bone stock.  Airbox lid in place; stock exhaust.
I run MX2T at 32:1.  BR8ES.
Ride in Memphis, TN 250ft MSL.  Temps variable.
Rejetted today when temp was 65F, but humidity was close to 100%.

Went from stock 160 main to 155.
Went from stock 48 pilot to 45.
Went from stock needle clip position 3 to needle clip position 2 (counting from the top).
Air screw 3.5 turns out.
Bike is still rich everywhere except perhaps at idle, where it is about right.

Next step is to drop main to 150, put needle back to 3rd position, drop PJ to 42, and reset air screw, which is what everyone on here told me to do in the first place.  But you guys are on the internet and me and my bike are in the real world, so I played it safe.

  • hi_im_sean

    Get Help Now

6781 posts
Location: Arizona

Posted 14 January 2008 - 11:18 PM


sticky... please anyone?


  • Please log in to reply





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users

 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.
Register Close

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.