KDX200/220 Jetting Database
Posted 02 December 2007 - 09:52 PM
PLEASE POST IN THE FOLLOWING FORMAT:
model- 200 or 220
conditions where you ride- altitude and temp
engine modifacations you have done
needle number/type and clip posistion (clip position is from the top of the needle as it is mounted in the carburetor, top being #1)
air screw turns out
hows it working for you?
someone make this a sticky!!!
Posted 03 December 2007 - 01:37 PM
Washington state, 0-6500ft, 32f-90f
FMF Desert pipe and TC-II, power reeds, FRP torque spacer
RB carb and head, modded airbox lid
CEK or CEL needle, can't remember, will check my notes
Air screw near the SSS ~ 2.75 turns out
Runs fat at high altitude, runs good at sealevel, the thumb adjustable air screw from RB really makes quick adjustments easy. I got a little bit of mid-throttle detonation during a 24hr race at night when the temps dropped in the 20's. Never fouls plugs, spooges a bit.
Posted 03 December 2007 - 09:37 PM
Eastern Kentucky // 900 ft +- 300 // year 'round
Wiseco Standard Piston & Rings
Airbox lid: snorkle removed, ten 1/2" holes drilled
Boyesen 607 Reeds
UNI Air Filter w/ No Toil Oil
FMF Gold Series “Gnarly Woods” w/ stock silencer
pilot jet: 42 (>50 degrees) // 45 (<50 degrees)
main jet: 150 (>50 degrees) // 152 (<50 degrees)
needle number/type and clip: CEL-2 (>50 degrees) // DEL-3 (<50 degrees)
Posted 04 December 2007 - 02:09 PM
Southern Arizona // 600-3500 ft
- Wiseco Standard Piston & Rings
- Airbox lid: snorkle removed, ~2"x4" hole cut
- FMF torque reeds
- Twin Air filter
- FMF rev pipe and Turbine Core II silencer (sometimes stocker)
- 36mm bored carb
- Fredette Racing porting and modifed head
- 2500-3500 ft, 90F+, 152 main
- 2500-3500 ft, 50-90F, 155 main
- 600-2500 ft, 90F+, 155 main
- 600-2500 ft, 50-90F, 158 main (although I usually left the 155 main in, when it's that hot out I die, and having 1 more hp doesn't matter)
- Dunes, 600 ft, 175 main (that's right! Even at 170 I could get the thing boiling and starting to detonate)
- Most riding - Stock, 2nd clip
- Dunes - Stock, 4th clip (or I would get mid range deto once really hot)
I probably should have been running a higher octane fuel in the dunes, I always used pump 91. On trails and even in faster/sandy wide open desert it was fine. But in the dunes I would be holding it wide open for a long time on end and getting the engine really hot. Playing with timing helped a little, but going real rich is what I needed to keep the thing alive. Made great power with those jets, but if you putted fo even 15-20 seconds it felt like the plug wanted to foul when trying to get back up on pipe, even though I never touched the pilot.
Posted 12 December 2007 - 07:32 PM
MODS: no airbox lid; RB-modified carb (bored to 36mm, divider plate, etc); Dual Stage Reeds; RB-mod head shaped for race gas (run 50/50 VP110/pump); timing is slightly retarded; 12/45 gearing with a 110/100 Pirelli in the rear; FMF rev-profile pipe
JETTING: for colder temps, 150MJ, 40PJ, CEK w/clip @ #4; warmer temps 148MJ, 38PJ, CEK w/clip @ #3; A/S range 2+5/16 (tweaking all the time).
PERFORMANCE: Very strong pull but not violent like a 250; easy to ride; quite powerful and fast in my opinion; bike revs much better with the RB mods (particularly with the race gas head); very easy to get the front wheel up
Posted 12 December 2007 - 07:45 PM
needle can't remember runnin on 2nd clip from the top
35mm 200 carb,
pro circuit platinum pipe
pro circuit 250 kx 304 silencer,
Motor has a nice pull from bottom all the way to the top, does not flatten out, stock gearing, 1st and second very short, motor still very torquey but has a long spread of power.
Posted 21 December 2007 - 07:29 AM
1000 ft +/- 200ft
2nd clip from top of needle
Boysen power reeds
FMF Gnarley (woods) pipe
FMF Turbine Core II
Removed Airbox Lid
Missouri Weather (hard to explain)
110 to -10 F
30 to 95 % humidity (happens in all in one day occasionally)
I know it sounds a little lean, but man it runs strong!!
Posted 21 December 2007 - 06:20 PM
Posted 22 December 2007 - 03:46 AM
2000 KDX 220
needle CGM on the 3rd
cylinder: plated, ported
head: squish band milled
CARB: bored from 33mm to36mm
Other bolt on mods
FMF rev pipe
VForce 3 reeds
Steathly 10oz fww
Performs like a four stroke, with a short power band,makes the bike feel lighter, D needles change it to more mellow power, easy to run a gear high.
will flat out kick but on anything in slippery muddy conditions.
plug runs mocha pipe runs charcoal with minor spooge on wake up does more aggressive spooging on drastic temp swings 20-30 degs in a few hours.
Posted 28 December 2007 - 06:27 AM
airbox lid on, snorkle on
stock needle on second down clip position.
crisp throttle response down low, awesome pull on top. I'm expecting my new full FMF knarly pipe with power core 2 slip on to arrive next wednesday, I plan on keeping the lid on and snorkle on and just adjust from there, not worth the potential risk for meltdown removing the lid.
Posted 03 January 2008 - 08:17 PM
clip on number 3 position
about 2 and a quarter to half on the air screw
mods: fmf fatty pipe and fmf silencer,athena piston kit,hot rod,smoothed and bored carb,no airbox lid,uni filter.
it only has about 10 hours on it but the bike runs great.plug is perfect.no boggs anywhere and pulls from bottom to top.best bike ive owned!
Posted 04 January 2008 - 04:10 PM
Posted 05 January 2008 - 02:28 PM
i think i need to drop the main down. seeing everyones post, almost all are leaner than mine with mods... and im stock. im running a 155, maybve ill try a 148-150. the top always felt kinda flat, never fouls a plug though
Posted 05 January 2008 - 04:49 PM
Posted 06 January 2008 - 04:50 PM
06 KDX200 bone stock. Airbox lid in place; stock exhaust.
I run MX2T at 32:1. BR8ES.
Ride in Memphis, TN 250ft MSL. Temps variable.
Rejetted today when temp was 65F, but humidity was close to 100%.
Went from stock 160 main to 155.
Went from stock 48 pilot to 45.
Went from stock needle clip position 3 to needle clip position 2 (counting from the top).
Air screw 3.5 turns out.
Bike is still rich everywhere except perhaps at idle, where it is about right.
Next step is to drop main to 150, put needle back to 3rd position, drop PJ to 42, and reset air screw, which is what everyone on here told me to do in the first place. But you guys are on the internet and me and my bike are in the real world, so I played it safe.
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