XR650L Blinker Mod Help! (Have Pics)


26 replies to this topic
  • BeeDub

Posted December 04, 2007 - 08:15 PM

#21

Unbolt the front number plate, low on the right side mounted with a rubber insulator, it's a little square box with 2 wires going to it.



Right on, thanks, found it with your help! This new one is way bigger, and I'm not sure how I'll mount it back in there, but I'll figure that part out. I also pulled the signal indicator bulb out of the cluster. However, now, for some reason, when I hit the blinker, only three of the LEDs in each blinker illuminate, and they don't blink. What's going on now. At least the correct side comes on again, but they don't fully illuminate, and they don't blink. I thought this thing was supposed to solve that.

Anyone now? :thumbsup:

  • frankiewhipit

Posted December 05, 2007 - 02:03 PM

#22

Put the indicator bulb back in, disconnect all the signals & check them with a test light individualy, make sure the green wires are connected to the ground wire from the bike & the blue to the wire that flashes the test light.
It works with the indicator bulb in. (if done correctly)

  • BeeDub

Posted December 05, 2007 - 03:07 PM

#23

Put the indicator bulb back in, disconnect all the signals & check them with a test light individualy, make sure the green wires are connected to the ground wire from the bike & the blue to the wire that flashes the test light.
It works with the indicator bulb in. (if done correctly)


By test light, do you mean I can just use one of the stock blinkers to test each one? I'm not buying any more special tools for this project that was supposed to cost $60, I'm now in the hole for $100. Also, if I remove the blinkers, won't there be a disconnect of the circuit since they all seem to be part of the same circuit, or should I just connect all the wires back to each other, except for the ones I'm testing? Also, when you said to connect the green wire to the ground wire from the bike, I'm assuming I can just ground it out on any of the bolts on the bike if it doesn't reach? I've done that for checking the battery and it works unless there's too much paint...

I'm finding out, after first hearing that the electronic flasher eliminates the need for a resistor, that I might need a resistor...

Now, I've blown $30 on a new flasher for no good reason, hopefully I can find the receipt and take it back. I called Shock Racing (LED blinker mfctr.) and the guy said, "Oh, you need a resistor pack. I told him that I bought some resistors from Radio Shack, and they just seemed like flimsy little wire dealies, and he said "no, that's not it. There is a company in Orange County that makes them", but now I can't remember the name, so I'll have to call Shock again if it really turns out I need this resistor pack, and I'll take the flasher back...

P.S. I'm wasting a lot of freaking gas in my truck as this project gets drawn out!

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  • pigryder

Posted December 05, 2007 - 03:58 PM

#24

Hey guys heres what I did when I put on LEDs and made my indicator light to work. I had to use resistors to get them to blink and grounded one of the wires on the lidicator lamp socket, and put a diode on the other so it doesnt backfeed current. Put the buld back in and bam there it is blinking :thumbsup:

  • BeeDub

Posted December 05, 2007 - 04:08 PM

#25

Hey guys heres what I did when I put on LEDs and made my indicator light to work. I had to use resistors to get them to blink and grounded one of the wires on the lidicator lamp socket, and put a diode on the other so it doesnt backfeed current. Put the buld back in and bam there it is blinking :thumbsup:


Appreciate that tip, but first I just want the damn blinkers to work! I'm getting tired of these stupid things already, and haven't gotten to ride my bike in days! :busted:

  • frankiewhipit

Posted December 05, 2007 - 05:51 PM

#26

See if you can get the flasher I gave you the part number for, I have it in my XL without resistors & it works fine. The blue & green wires I was referring to are the ones from the signals. The test light is also called a continuity tester, my local auto parts store sells them for $9.95
(My Snap on tools version costs about $40.00)
The fronts on my bike harness are blue for the l/f & orange for the r/f with green for the ground wire, I don't remember the rear

  • danny v

Posted December 05, 2007 - 08:16 PM

#27

HI, IF YOU GO TO BAHA DESIGNS WEB SITE YOU CAN DOWNLOAD THE WIRING SCHEMATIC FOR THE STANDARD KIT OR THE NEWER VERSION. DEPENDING WHAT YOU HAVE FOR YOUR BAR SWITCH ( KILL BUTTON WITH THE LIGHT SWITCH.bahadesigns.com good luck ! danny v





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