XR650L Blinker Mod Help! (Have Pics)

[BeeDub]

Okay guys, I couldn't resist paying $30 for a set of LED blinkers while at the shop today, not unlike the ones I had on my Christmas list. I cut off the old ones to wire them up (rear only to start, at a friends house). On the stock wiring, one side had one green and one blue, just like the after markets (made by "Shock", I believe), and one side had a red and a green. So on the one side, I wire green to green, blue to blue. On the other side, I wire green to green, and red to blue. I turned on the blinker, and all I get is a solid signal on one side. Pissed off and confused, I ride the bike home without properly working blinkers...When I got home, I pulled the bike into my shop (my living room) and give it an oil change. Then I decide to go ahead and wire up the front blinkers to see if that was somehow the problem. I got that done about ten minutes ago, wiring it the same way I did the rears, and now when I turn on the blinker, all four come on??? What the heck did I do wrong? I've read somewhere here that you need to put a flasher unit on for these aftermarkets, such as baja designs (why I don't know), but is that my problem or am I way off? Pictures below:

REARS

RIGHT FRONT

RIGHT FRONT 2

LEFT FRONT

[-=Jughead=-]

Not sure of the wiring schematic. Hopefully someone here has a good reference.

But, I do know that the incandescent bulbs are resistive, and you can put a mild resistor in-line with the LED power wire, and this may solve some compatibility issues. The stock system is "expecting", or designed with the resistance in mind. The LED's draw much less current/amps, and offer little resistance, and you are basically throwing the circuit(s) out of balance when swapping to LEDs.

The system needs the resistance/heat for the flasher to operate correctly.

[BeeDub]

Thanks Phuzz, and I hope someone here who's done the mod can tell me exactly where I went wrong too, and what exactly I need to do to fix it! I'm definitely no electrician. I just hope I don't have to take them all apart again and can just add something basic...

[Descalzo]

I agree with phuzz's assesment. Wire in a registor/resister wire or swap out for a IC relay.

If you go with the registor, the signals will still draw as much power as the incandesant bulbs did, if you go with the relay you'll save a few watts. Saving a few watts may not be an issue on an L, but it's nice on an R.

The shop you got the signals from can probably set you up with what you need - if not Wheeling cycle supply .com can set you up either way. Think I paid ~$20 for the relay from them when I got my signals

[Rockjockey]

You need a flasher designed for the LED lights and you will need to remove the turn signal indicator bulb from the dash area as voltage feeds back through that bulb. Here is a good source:

http://www.procycle.us/main/dskit.htm

[husky123]

Yep, what he said. You need a LED specific relay/flasher or they won't work.

[absynth01]

I've had luck with cheap automotive relays. The explanation is correct the bulb type have much more resistance. If you were to use a mechanical type relay, you would have to use the cheapest one you could find. There is a trade-off with mechanical relays. A heavy duty relay won't work on our systems. The cheaper ones sometimes do. The heavier duty rated require MORE resistance than the standard or cheaper, requiring larger bulbs or more lights. The cheaper ones require much less, but you trade durability. If you are riding off-road you see how this could be a problem. I just used some rubber hose zipped tied to mine, then ziptied to the bike. Over 1000mi no problem yet.

The fix all is the adjustable/custom type relays. These can be a little pricey, but you can use any lights you want. Another good point is these usually will work even with a bulb/light out!!! Most mechanicals won't.

standard flasher-$2.00

led/custom flasher-$20.00+

[BeeDub]

You need a flasher designed for the LED lights and you will need to remove the turn signal indicator bulb from the dash area as voltage feeds back through that bulb. Here is a good source:

http://www.procycle.us/main/dskit.htm

Okay, since I am so Electraphobic, the above info is about all I can understand. So, you're saying I have to buy this thing right?

L.E.D. 12V turn signal flasher

Works with LED type turn signals. For DC systems only. CF12ANL

$19.95

Now, where does it go, can I get it at a shop, is it just a replacement for something already on the bike???

Thanks!

[Rockjockey]

Okay, since I am so Electraphobic, the above info is about all I can understand. So, you're saying I have to buy this thing right?

L.E.D. 12V turn signal flasher

Works with LED type turn signals. For DC systems only. CF12ANL

$19.95

Now, where does it go, can I get it at a shop, is it just a replacement for something already on the bike???

Thanks!

Thats the part I'm using, it replaces the flasher on your 650L which is behind the headlight assembly. The link I sent you is cost effective and the people that run that site will help you over the phone if needed (good folks). You will still need to remove the indicator bulb on the dash area for it to work properly as it feeds back current through the system when using LED lights.

[BeeDub]

I can't find anywhere which color wire is the ground? I'm guessing green, and that's the way I have it wired now. Anyone?

Also, I bought the 100 ohm resistors at Radio Shack so I can try to get it working tonight, couldn't find the flashers in store. Doing it this way, do I still need to pull the indicator bulb?

[uranys]

You could hook them up to a battery directly to figure out the polarity (although it may not matter as long as you are consistent). In my experience almost all auto parts stores carry Tridon EL12 flashers for under $10. It's a solid state flasher that should work, although with all LEDs you probably will still need to add some resistance.

[BeeDub]

Welp, I just test wired in the resistors, and it did no good, but to make the lights a little dimmer. Again, all four turn signals light up when I hit the blinker switch. I'm thinking about ordering a new flasher unit. Can anyone answer if I'm wrong with connecting green to green, blue to blue, and red to blue on the two with the red wire???

[fishpost19]

If your instrument cluster has a single light to show when your blinkers are on, try temporarily removing it, or disconnecting it. Sometimes the single bulb, being connected to both sides, bridges both sides circuits, so when you select one side, the other side also turns on.

The resistors would make them dimmer if wired in series, I'm thinking they should be wired in parallel to draw more current, rather than taking voltage away from the LEDs making them dimmer.Think about it, if in series, the voltage would be split up between the resistor and LEDs. If in parallel, both resistor and LEDs would be getting the full voltage of 12v (13v or whatever it is exactly) but the current draw on the resistor would be added to the tiny current draw on the LEDs, therefore allowing the flasher to operate as it was intended - under load - simulating a incandescent bulb with high resistance. Don't know if this is correct, but it makes sense to me in theory, even though I haven't tried it, so I could be wrong (probably). Try soldering the resistors in parallel, that is across both wires of the LEDs and see if they'll flash with the stock flasher.

Just my 2 cents

[BeeDub]

Try soldering the resistors in parallel, that is across both wires of the LEDs and see if they'll flash with the stock flasher.

Just my 2 cents

What do you mean by across both wires? do you mean take one end of the resistor, and connect it to the ground wire, and one end to the positive wire, or one resistor in each line, in each blinker? I'm pretty sure I'm just going to buy a new flasher, these resistors seem pretty fragile anyway...

[BeeDub]

Does anyone know if a Trico EP37 is a direct plug-in for my stock flasher? Please, I'm done with the resistors, I went through that last night, and I wasted a dollar on those, and eight more bucks on a soldering iron (though I think I'll still use this for connecting wires). I just want to plug and play!

[frankiewhipit]

The resistor method works. You have to find The "hot" wire to each light & put the resistor in - in the correct direction, one for each light. Also the resistors have to be an equal load to the stock bulb.

EDIT- OK the flasher I used is an "electronic flasher" made by Buss part # 232, it plugs right in, the mount is different.

The led signals are blue wire to power & green to ground, you'll need a test light to determine which wire has power when the signal is on.

Frank

[BeeDub]

The resistor method works. You have to find The "hot" wire to each light & put the resistor in - in the correct direction, one for each light. Also the resistors have to be an equal load to the stock bulb.

EDIT- OK the flasher I used is an "electronic flasher" made by Buss part # 232, it plugs right in, the mount is different.

The led signals are blue wire to power & green to ground, you'll need a test light to determine which wire has power when the signal is on.

Frank

Thanks for that info for the wires. As far as the resistors go, I already bought a Trico EP37 flasher at NAPA during lunch, so I'd rather go that route, seems more secure than putting those flimsy, fragile little deals in line. Also, according to what you're saying, it'd be like winning the lottery trying to figure out which direction to put them in, and then solder them all...?

I'm going to try this out tonight with the flasher only, and I'll let y'all know how it goes!

[BeeDub]

Anyone? Anyone? Someone please tell me where to put this flasher in, I can't find anything anywhere on the bike that resembles it, but read that this is the one to buy (Trico EP37)...PLEASE!

[frankiewhipit]

Unbolt the front number plate, low on the right side mounted with a rubber insulator, it's a little square box with 2 wires going to it.

[-=Jughead=-]

If your instrument cluster has a single light to show when your blinkers are on, try temporarily removing it, or disconnecting it. Sometimes the single bulb, being connected to both sides, bridges both sides circuits, so when you select one side, the other side also turns on.

The stock incandescent setup seems to tolerate it, but a diode may help when swapping out with LED's. What do you think about installing a diode on either side (but obviously not on both) to eliminate this bridging effect?

Good post, BTW.