Quick rear wheel lacing/spoke question


15 replies to this topic
  • aedwards07

Posted December 02, 2007 - 06:05 AM

#1

Well just finished lacing both my wheels up.The front went together fine as did the back but I am noticeing some of the rear wheel spokes seem quite long.I know there is an shorter and a longer set of spokes for the back wheel.Where do the longer spokes go?Looking at the hub from a side view I put the longer ones in the holes that started closer to the axle thinking they would require longer spokes.Am I right, and I will just need to trim the tops of the spokes?


Heres what they look like.For about $100 total I think it definally changed the look of the wheels.
Posted Image

  • grayracer513

Posted December 02, 2007 - 04:23 PM

#2

If you look at the hub from the outer ends, you'll notice that one set of the sockets the spokes are inserted into are deeper than the others.. That is, they put the head of the spoke closer to the hub center, and thus need longer spokes. Interestingly, these are the "inside" row of holes, not the "outside" row, as one might think. Try re-lacing them that way and see how it goes.

  • aedwards07

Posted December 02, 2007 - 05:53 PM

#3

I DID insert the longer spokes in the holes where the spoke head is closer to the inside of the hub thus needing the longer spokes.As far as I know the wheel pattern is correct and they are still loose but I have about 5 spokes that stick out past the nipple already.Could it just be that I need to trim the spokes for some reason?I am taking them into school tomorrow to use the trueing stand and get them true... :thumbsup:

Its also not that all the spokes that are to long are in the same spoke row.They are just random spokes here and there.BUT they were all the same to start with.

Ill post a top pic of the wheel so you can get an idea if the lacing pattern is right or if something obvious is wrong.

  • aedwards07

Posted December 02, 2007 - 06:09 PM

#4

Posted Image

And some of the spokes:
Posted Image

I did tighten the spokes down evenly until all the spokes where tightened and you couldnt see any threads at all.Then I just turned them until I had tension on them.

  • yzfmerf

Posted December 02, 2007 - 06:51 PM

#5

Have you trued them at all yet. I am by no means a master wheel builder but i have laced up a few sets. They looked like they are laced correctly. I will say i took a couple of measurements before i pulled my wheels apart to make sure they built back up the same way. My biggest concern was getting the dish correct but actually as not that big of a deal. The last time i changed rims i did not even take the spokes out of the hubs, made things a lot easier although i know that wont help here.

  • akonibai

Posted December 02, 2007 - 07:02 PM

#6

@aedwards07 did you anodize your hubs and nipples?

  • todds924

Posted December 02, 2007 - 08:11 PM

#7

Posted Image

And some of the spokes:
Posted Image

I did tighten the spokes down evenly until all the spokes where tightened and you couldnt see any threads at all.Then I just turned them until I had tension on them.


Whatever you do....don't cut ANYTHING!!!!!! Those are the same spokes that you took out of those wheels correct? Something is amiss.

  • yzf450jack

Posted December 02, 2007 - 08:57 PM

#8

I have Excel pro hubs and the spokes cross twice, You can look at another set of wheels and compare them and see what's up

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  • grayracer513

Posted December 03, 2007 - 07:06 AM

#9

I DID insert the longer spokes in the holes where the spoke head is closer to the inside of the hub thus needing the longer spokes...

Its also not that all the spokes that are to long are in the same spoke row.They are just random spokes here and there.BUT they were all the same to start with.

My approach to lacing is to use the amount of exposed thread below the nipple as a gauge of the spokes being run down evenly. I run them in until they all have like 5-6 threads or so showing below the nipple, then take them a turn or a half turn at a time until they begin to snug up. This usually corrects any situations such as a "torqued" rim (rotated over the hub one way or other), or eccentricity. Then, while everything's still a little loose, I check it on a stand or in the bike to see how the truing/centering is doing do I can dial out any problems as I tighten it, rather than afterward. If you do this, you may find that the long spokes go away by themselves.

If the wheel actually gets finished, and it's round, centered right, and running flat, and none of the spokes are short, then you can trim the over long spokes.

  • wheeldude

Posted December 03, 2007 - 08:12 AM

#10

On YZ's, the longer spokes go on the inside. If you are using stock spokes, the inside are longer before the bend. True your wheel, and if any are still sticking out, grind them flush with the nipple with a dremel tool. WD

  • aedwards07

Posted December 03, 2007 - 10:48 AM

#11

The Hubs are powdercoated and the spokes and nipples are RAD MFG.

I did tighen all of them evenly until I could not see anymore threads and then I just tightened them until a felt a LITTLE resistence.I just got done building a trueing stand so I will try to get the back wheel straightened out.Ill report back with what happened.

  • grayracer513

Posted December 03, 2007 - 11:21 AM

#12

As wheeldude pointed out, the longer spokes for the inside row are longer between the bend and the head than the shorter spokes are. Check the spokes that are extending through the nipple. If they are in the outside row, and you have mistakenly inserted an inside spoke, it should be easy to spot, since the bend will be well above the hub surface where the spoke exits.

  • aedwards07

Posted December 03, 2007 - 01:09 PM

#13

Well got it figured out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!I feel like a complete idiot but thats how you learn I guess.I checked all the spokes and it turns out that all the ones that were sticking through were on the disc side.Long story short the rim wasnt centered.I loosened all the spokes on the one side and tightened the other side and now its all good.Whoooo!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • RM142

Posted December 03, 2007 - 05:29 PM

#14

Now let me ask those who lace up there own wheels, how do you determine center line and maintain that throughout the build up. I have done a few and that seems to be the hard part to me. The first one I did was off a little and had to relace :thumbsup: . Now I just measure the old set up and set up a pointer(on center) on the truing wheel. Any tips

  • grayracer513

Posted December 03, 2007 - 07:43 PM

#15

What I generally do with my own bikes when this comes up depends on the situation with the old wheels; why am I re-doing them?

If it's just to change rim color, or upgrade the rims when they're in fairly good shape. or replace one that's not in terribly bad shape, I'll drop the wheel in the stand and take measurements so I can repeat them with the new rim.

If the wheel is a disaster, or I forget to check the old one, I leave the wheel loosely laced and trial fit it in the bike, making adjustments as I draw it up. If the wheel starts getting a little tight, I start doing the shift to the side by first loosening the entire side I'm moving away from a half turn, then tightening the entire side I'm moving toward by the same amount. I do more if it needs it, or draw it up some and throw it in the truing stand.

  • yzfmerf

Posted December 03, 2007 - 07:49 PM

#16

I dont have a truing stand so i true the wheel laying on flat surface. I measure the height of the rim from the surface and that gives me my dish. Just make sure it is the same all the way around. Then i put it on the bike to finish up. I did finally splurge a get a Fastco spoke wrench though since that is something i ill use all the time. The truing stand not so much.





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