97 replies to this topic

[huskytarded TT Member]

here's a little info protected by the freedom of information act...

Disconnect the carb vent lines/fuel lines and remove the tank and the headlight unit. Take a look at what goes where... where the hoses go.
Remove the manifold that is zip tied by the ignition switch
Remove the small canister attached to the lower triple
Disconnect the hoses that connect to the pink carb vent lines and reroute the vent hoses
Disconnect the hose from the nipple on the intake side of the head, near the carb boot and plug it up with an automotive vacuum plug
Remove the large canister and attached hoses.
Install one of those little aluminum no spill fuel vent fittings to the top fuel vent nipple on the tank.
Reinstall the tank and headlight and you're good to go. Don't forget to plug the nipple on the side of the head.
It is a vacuum line and will suck air otherwise.
I routed the top carb vent lines to a location under the seat and used one of the left over T fittings to connect the lower carb vent hoses (not the carb bowl drain line) and installed a filter and one way valve to keep shit out
of the carb. Also rerouted the crankcase vent from the airbox, plugged the hole left in the airbox and capped of the vent hose with a K and N vent filter. Took about 30 minutes to do in total.

[cpw TT Member]

Thanks so much for the info.
I've been able to remove everything and wouldn't have had the confidence to try had it not been for the help on this forum.
I haven't rerouted the carb vent lines yet so that's still a project for tomorrow.
Thx,
=CPW=

[oshaughnessy TT Newbie]

I just bought a 2005 TE 450, and I've been going through many of the recommendations available here in the 4-stroke Husqvarna forum.  Fantastic resource!  Thanks, Coffee, for being such a diligent moderator.

Anyway, I thought I'd mention that it doesn't look like any of that smog stuff is in the 2005 model.  I suppose it was added in 2006 when the bike became 50-state street legal, eh?

[oshaughnessy TT Newbie]

So I've been reading through these forums and the Husqvarna owner's manual, and I have a few questions related to some of the suggestions at the start of this thread.

Under the manual's "adjusting the carburettor" section (in the 2005 manual), it talks about turning the "slow running adjusting screw" and then the "adjusting screw".  Is that slow-running one the fuel screw that's so often recommended as an upgrade replacement?  What's wrong with the stock screw?

Also, how do you get to the second-mentioned screw, the "adjusting screw"?  It's under the carb, right?  The manual's photo isn't very clear.  I can't see down in there enough to figure out what kind of screwdriver or allen wrench is required.  Seems awfully awkward to adjust.

Last, I'm curious why you need a jetting kit.  I know I'm really shining the newbie headlights brightly here, but why wouldn't Husqvarna sell the bikes with perfect jetting in the first place?  Emissions restrictions?  Is a JD Jet kit just a simple "replace this screw with that" type of installation, or do you really need to know how to adjust screws and tune things well?  I guess I'd like to know why some of the "must-do" recommendations are there.

I'm reading as much as I can as often as I can!  Thanks to everyone who participates in these forums -- ThumperTalk is an amazing reasource.

[justplayin TT Bronze Member]

oshaughnessy said:

So I've been reading through these forums and the Husqvarna owner's manual, and I have a few questions related to some of the suggestions at the start of this thread.

Under the manual's "adjusting the carburettor" section (in the 2005 manual), it talks about turning the "slow running adjusting screw" and then the "adjusting screw".  Is that slow-running one the fuel screw that's so often recommended as an upgrade replacement?  What's wrong with the stock screw?

Also, how do you get to the second-mentioned screw, the "adjusting screw"?  It's under the carb, right?  The manual's photo isn't very clear.  I can't see down in there enough to figure out what kind of screwdriver or allen wrench is required.  Seems awfully awkward to adjust.

Last, I'm curious why you need a jetting kit.  I know I'm really shining the newbie headlights brightly here, but why wouldn't Husqvarna sell the bikes with perfect jetting in the first place?  Emissions restrictions?  Is a JD Jet kit just a simple "replace this screw with that" type of installation, or do you really need to know how to adjust screws and tune things well?  I guess I'd like to know why some of the "must-do" recommendations are there.

I'm reading as much as I can as often as I can!  Thanks to everyone who participates in these forums -- ThumperTalk is an amazing reasource.

My take on the "slow running screw" would be the base idle rpm adjustment. This is "not" the screw that you replace.

The screw you replace is the one you can't see, get to, or get a screwdriver into. It is in the front of the carb, underneath. That is why you replace it, not that the original screw is bad, it's just very hard to impossible to adjust. The new screw makes adjusting a snap.

As far as the JD kit, YES it is a put this needle in, put this jet here...and they give you a very easy to read and understand chart for different elevations of riding. I have had experience with 2 kits, 01 KTM 400 and 07 TE450..both SPOT on.


Oh, and YES, unless your dealer or previous owner did it, you MUST re-jet for the bike to run the way it's suppose to. Not only the newer bikes because of emissions reasons, but.....if you ride in Colorado @ 10,000ft or South Jersey @ sea level it makes a difference.

One last thing, you have started out doing the best posible thing you could with your Husky......read, read, read this forum, it is amazing.

Kudos for everyone:thumbsup:

[themattreid TT Silver Member]

huskytarded said:

here's a little info protected by the freedom of information act...

Disconnect the carb vent lines/fuel lines and remove the tank and the headlight unit. Take a look at what goes where... where the hoses go.
Remove the manifold that is zip tied by the ignition switch
Remove the small canister attached to the lower triple
Disconnect the hoses that connect to the pink carb vent lines and reroute the vent hoses
Disconnect the hose from the nipple on the intake side of the head, near the carb boot and plug it up with an automotive vacuum plug
Remove the large canister and attached hoses.
Install one of those little aluminum no spill fuel vent fittings to the top fuel vent nipple on the tank.
Reinstall the tank and headlight and you're good to go. Don't forget to plug the nipple on the side of the head.
It is a vacuum line and will suck air otherwise.
I routed the top carb vent lines to a location under the seat and used one of the left over T fittings to connect the lower carb vent hoses (not the carb bowl drain line) and installed a filter and one way valve to keep shit out
of the carb. Also rerouted the crankcase vent from the airbox, plugged the hole left in the airbox and capped of the vent hose with a K and N vent filter. Took about 30 minutes to do in total.

It's not the information Coffee is concerned about but pictures of the information. This is so rangers and other LEOs cannot assemble a binder full of photos of make/model bikes with smog equipment removed. It's the same idea as the dealer not wanting to take the smog equip off the bike for you. It IS illegal after all, otherwise those parts wouldn't be on the bike.

[themattreid TT Silver Member]

One thing another member mentioned in a separate thread.

- take the mud flap off and cut the ridges down with an exacto knife. the ridges wear grooves into the swingarm.

[fitness2go TT Addict]

Thanks...I'll do that!

themattreid said:

One thing another member mentioned in a separate thread.

- take the mud flap off and cut the ridges down with an exacto knife. the ridges wear grooves into the swingarm.

[3BeeJay3 TT Bronze Member]

I looked thru and didn't find a reference to the Clutch Safety switch on the TE's.

I suggest bypassing it, as it will fail at some point. Mine failed at home(luckily)

They're easy to bypass: locate the 2 safety switch wires in the wiring harness on the left side of the bike by the steering head. There is a bullet connector in each wire at this spot. They are reversed on each wire, so all you have to do is unplug them and plug the 2 wires heading to the main harness by the battery into each other. Done - Safety switch bypassed.

Remove the switch at the clutch, if you choose......

BJ

[bimota TT Bronze Member]

Thank you Coffee.  I am getting a good education.

BruceLee

[Huskaroo TT Member]

I have an '08 TC250 and I replaced the ignition with a vortex unit after the first ride. It turned the bike into a whole new machine, the stock rev limiter cuts in way to early, but the vortex lets it rev out into the meat of the powerband. Plus it added power over the entire range of the powerband, I would definetly suggest this mod to anyone who is riding their Husky competitivly or just wants more umpha out of their bike. I got mine at Norther Colorado BMW/Ducati, they said they were gonna get more in soon.

[Blakduk TT Bronze Member]

2008 TE610ie.


My list of thing to be considered by new or possible owners of the '08 bike based on my experience and reading so far.  Some of them might seem a bit basic, but not for me!  

• Pick a dealer that knows the bike, suss out the mechanic, or regularly phone or correspond with a Husky - knowledgeable person.  Don't just pay them for the stuff you buy - get a relationship going and find out what they suggest (e.g. footpeg fix) and tell them what you've found out (e.g. blue regulator wire).
  
  
  
• The following 5 points are suggested you do for EVER - and the bike will last FOREVER.  Or at least until oil runs out.
  
  

• Change the oil at approx 250km, 600km, 1100km including the filter.  Or more often.  AFter running in, change the oil at 2000kms, not 5000kms.

  
  

• Use mineral oil until the 1100km one, then fully synthetic.

  
  

• Make sure the bike warms up properly before loading the engine ESPECIALLY in the first 1000kms.

  
  

• Do NOT let the motor get over hot during the first 1000kms.  If the fan comes on, stop and cool down for a while.

  
  

• Buy an extra airfilter & change regularly - the air inlet is low on the right and gets dirty if you spend much time offroad with mates.  Put grease around the filter edge where it mates with the airbox.

  
  

• Don't FLOG the bike, or load it TOO much at low revs for the first 1000kms.  Actually NEVER.  

  
  
  
• Every time you stop for a look around, refuel, chat to your mates.  Run your finger over every bolt you can see - check it is not loose (not the exhaust ones hey!!!   )
  
  
  
• Check the tire pressures when you pick it up. They WILL be far too high.
  
  
  
• The bike needs a bashplate if you plan on leaving the bitumen.  BUT remember that 70% (or something ) of engine heat is dissipated through the gearbox oil..... a poor bashplate can hold heat, particularly if you let mud, sand & grass get btn the plate & the gearbox.
  
  
  
• Put on some kind of handlebar protection e.g. barkbusters etc.
  
  
  
• Check the suspension settings; they will usually come weird from the dealer.
  
  
  
• Loosen the front axle bolts and give the forks a tap with a rubber mallet, then work the action.  The axle will move to the position where the forks can travel with the least 'stiction'.  Care when changing the front wheel likewise.
  
  
  
• At 1000 - 1500kms get the suspension sorted, guys over 95kg (110kg with riding gear) will probably need a heavier spring at the back at least.  The front may need work if you're not happy with the lack of compression adjusting.
  
  
  
• Grind off the little bolt that sticks out, bends the spring and causes the sidestand to auto retract.
  
  
  
• Most suggest a longer sidestand with larger foot - I think it is okay with care.
  
  
  
• Most suggest looking at a softer seat - again I disagree as I stand 90% of my riding and have buns of steel.
  
  
  
• Most suggest an aftermarket exhaust slip-on.  Apparently you may expect a freer breathing & running motor with about 12% more power.  Don't stuff it up for us by getting a noisy one!
  
  
  
• Remove the footpegs, clean up the mating surfaces between the frame & pegs and flatten the little lump of weld from the kickstand mound.  Tighten the bolts nicely & check occasionally.  This may save your life.
  
  
  
• Check the spokes regularly.
  
  
  
• A lot of the clips that keep various cables etc in the right place come loose.  I suggest cable ties - not too tight.
  
  
  
• Check the routing of the clutch cable.  Down the bottom where it mounts to the case it can be bent & prematurely wear. Check where it goes over/around the handlebars so that it is in an optimum - straight - not tight position.  This may vary if you have hand(le)bar protection.
  
  
  
• Check all bolts (I've had NO trouble & ride hard off-road) but EVERYONE should ALWAYS check their sprocket bolts.
  
  
  
• A early one.....check that the blue (earth) lead from the voltage regulator is connected to the NEGATIVE battery terminal.!!!!
  
  
  
• The tires are generally ideal dual purpose, but the front Karoo can be unnerving on loose downhills and other dodgy dirt situations.
  
  
  
• The extra wide front tank & radiator shrouds is a blessing with mileage - but it collects more vines & branches, and your knee guards might wear the stickers off .......

This is about all I can think of at the moment.  

I love my 610!!!!!  
  

[3BeeJay3 TT Bronze Member]

Adding a zerk fitting to the lower shock pivot:

http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=661208

[bimota TT Bronze Member]

There was a tread in May from fairfaxbiker that also has some good information.  Some of the dealers are addressing these issues before delivery.

Quote

http://www.thumperta...ht=fairfaxbiker

[pvduke TT Bronze Member]

Tore the Orphan down last night for a suspension re-do.

The sub-frame comes off for the shock to come out, naturally- and I found, to my 'suprize',  a lil grit and dust in the air boot sump.

It was really puzzling as the air filter (Moose/Twin-Air oil) was a 100% perfect seal, the flame arrestor was greased up big time, nothing was getting by the filter/arrestor.
Nor had there been any grit in the boot before.

My only guess is the boot/air box junction. The mount-plate is glued to the boot so again, not sure how stuff can enter there- but it is the only logical point of entry. This was not stuff getting knocked off the frame during t/d.

I normally reaseal every bike's air-boot at some point, some even before I ride it the first time (Honda's). Took this one for granted as it was showing no signs of any debris entry.

Saving grace is the design of the air boot. It is 'sumped' to a degree where the crank-case vent comes in. Much lower than the carb inlet. It is also pretty moist there so it caught a lot of junk. Also- if you have a TC- note one of the nuts behind the boot look like they can rub through over time. Address that area as well with some tape on the nut.

Did the motor  have a lil dirt snack? Prolly. The extent is unknown but I doubt it was 'a lot' as it simply has not been that long since I last serviced it/inspected that area. The oil is clean, no junk on screens, no blow-by or oil use/smoke so I'm not going to really worry too much at this point. If I start to loose sleep over it I'll find a bore-scope for rent.

Moral of the story- re-seal your air boot "the right way" before it becomes a problem (silicone, butyl etc. I use a lot of glue on the boot- cleaning any dingle-berries that squish out from the intake tract, and, an overlapping patchwork of small strips of duct tape on the outside to keep junk at bay in the first place....let it cure 24-48 hours min. Never had one leak yet like this, ever...pics on my Project thread forthcoming. ).

[pvduke TT Bronze Member]

After tearing down the boot/box/ring....nothing was getting by there. I really really looked hard and was methodic and surgical on this teardown and nothing was getting past the filter or boot/ring seal.

It went back togeter last night with copious amounts of sealant etc...so if anything leaks there, I'm gonna eat my hemlet.

This leaves the only probable point of entry the air filter, due to a washdown of the same on a couple of deep crossings a while back. After conversing with George, that is the most likely cause IMHO.
The particulate was pretty fine and silty so that, with the lack of evidence from a leaking boot/ clamp ring seal, seems the logical cause. Same is further supported by no evdience of debris on the carb bell or slide.

Point here- if you dunk yer filter, make it a point to inspect the intake tract, at least, for debris the may have washed through. Always cover your filter or remove it and block off the boot during washing. ( I rarely wash mine for a lot of reasons.)  

Side note- leave the flame arrestor in. Sure it's a pain, but if greased up good it wont leak.
All it takes is 'one' if yer unlucky like me....and you have a scorched filter, from the inside, and you might not know it 'til it is too late.

-kevin.

[Ride Get Help Now]

pvduke said:

After tearing down the boot/box/ring....nothing was getting by there. I really really looked hard and was methodic and surgical on this teardown and nothing was getting past the filter or boot/ring seal.

It went back togeter last night with copious amounts of sealant etc...so if anything leaks there, I'm gonna eat my hemlet.

This leaves the only probable point of entry the air filter, due to a washdown of the same on a couple of deep crossings a while back. After conversing with George, that is the most likely cause IMHO.
The particulate was pretty fine and silty so that, with the lack of evidence from a leaking boot/ clamp ring seal, seems the logical cause. Same is further supported by no evdience of debris on the carb bell or slide.

Point here- if you dunk yer filter, make it a point to inspect the intake tract, at least, for debris the may have washed through. Always cover your filter or remove it and block off the boot during washing. ( I rarely wash mine for a lot of reasons.)  

Side note- leave the flame arrestor in. Sure it's a pain, but if greased up good it wont leak.
All it takes is 'one' if yer unlucky like me....and you have a scorched filter, from the inside, and you might not know it 'til it is too late.

-kevin.

Take the top off your carb and see if it is dirty up there above the slide. Are you running a carb filter? If not get one of Clays (7602) as I have seen a lot of dirt get sucked via the vent lines. Also seal the top of the carb with silicone after you reassemble it.

I run the PJ1 spray on filter oil and the carb filter and that has mostly eliminated the fine dust you will find in the airboot.

[pvduke TT Bronze Member]

Copy and yes....Uptite vent filter equipped...

[Centerline TT Newbie]

coffee said:

Post up what you think are the 'must do' modifications to a Husqvarna 4 stroke dirt bikes and what 'must have' parts should be purchased.  It will be assumed that things like jetting do not apply to the EFI bikes, and EFI modifications do not apply to the Keihin bikes.

I'll start.  Some of these are going to sound trivial but think they are important.

Summary - Rejet, do the oil changes, and hang on

In order of importance to me.

• Check your air pressure in the tires.  
  
• Oil filters & oil - be warned the first couple of oil changes will have orange flakes & other stuff come out of the engine - that is normal and is why the oil should get changed frequently when the bike is new.
  
• Read or at least glance at this thread: Important Information
  
  
• .
  
• Buy an after market fuel screw
  
• Buy the JD kit - or if you know how to re-jet a Keihin get those parts.
  
  
• "Let the stuff fall off the TEs that the TCs don't have", plug the port on the side of the cylinder that a vent hose was attached to, and route vent hoses like any other dirt bike - 2 hoses up under the gas tank, then let 2 hoses dangle along with the spill over hose at the very bottom of the carb.
  
• Watch these videos if you don't know how -
  Remove the throttle stop & enable the AP video and How to re-jet and install fuel screw video
  
  
• How to adjust your fuel screw - read this
  
• .
  
• At some point early in the bikes life the valves should be checked - note the feeler gauge should go between the lift arm and top of valve, and NOT the cam shaft/lift arm like the video shows - video
  
• Consider changing the crossover tube between the radiators that goes over the frame - it may be un-reinforced similar to fuel line.  Take it down to the auto parts store to get the correct size radiator hose or some like other types of hoses.
  
• Consider re-greasing the swing arm & stem bearings just like any other dirt bike.
  
• .
  Popular optional items
  
• .
  
• Some people buy an extra air filter - I'm lazy and don't like to clean air filters.
  
• Some people find bark busters like the Cycra Probends to be a good thing - some don't.
  
• Some people put on carb vent filters which keeps dust out of the carb - a good thing.
  
• Some people like armor, etc - after market skid plates, radiator guards, pipe heat shields some don't think it is necessary.  The bike certainly works well enough without those things until you hit something or burn your pants.
  
• Some people like larger tanks - but other don't.
  
• Some people  put an after market axle nut on the front axle - again the bike works fine without that but it is a handy thing to have.
  
• Some people install a "Y" fitting where there is a "T" fitting where the larger radiator hoses come together.
  
• ...
  WARNING - letting these bikes idle in neutral unattended while on the kick stand COULD EASILY result in bike falling down unless auto retract feature is disabled.
  
• Some people dislike the auto retract kickstand - here is one way to disable it:
  

That list may be updated in the future.

.

Hello Vic, thanks for taking the time to put together your info to me...it is much appreciated.  It will greatly smooth and speed the process of getting the little beast dialed in.

Be careful out there,
Steve

[coffee Get Help Now]

Centerline said:

Hello Vic, thanks for taking the time to put together your info to me...it is much appreciated.  It will greatly smooth and speed the process of getting the little beast dialed in.

Be careful out there,
Steve

You are welcome!