97 replies to this topic

[2wheels TT Bronze Member]

tekknikkx said:

was this an oversight from husky?

in california at least the tank vent line runs to the canister system---so the $15 dollar mod,after pulling the canisters, is a check valve on the gas cap that stops gas flow on tip over

[mike_dean TT Platinum Member]

So there must be a hole in the stem for the fuel to get to the lower brg otherwise it would just run out the bottom of the stem to the fender, that seems like an oversight, I don't think I would design a hole in a strg stem for the sake of a strg lock. I don't use my strg lock anyway, and I have a vent on the cap because of the 11/8" pro tapers with bar pad, so I'm ok. I keep forgetting these are street legal. thanks, Mike

[BentAero TT Bronze Member]

Dale Wickline said:

Dremel out the restrictive diffuser in the stock exhaust (TE-250). Still very quiel & noticable improvement to the bottom end.

Huh?
Can you elaborate please?

Gary

[Dale Wickline TT Bronze Member]

BentAero said:

Huh?
Can you elaborate please?

Gary

Start here and work forward and backward through this thread started by PoconoPete a while back.

http://www.thumperta...221#post3383221

[BAJAHUSKYS TT Titanium Member]

Our TC bikes have a lot of mods, mostly all to do with power and protecting the bike and rider.

If I had to do it all over again and still have a carbed bike for cross country riding, it would be in this order.

1) Front axle nut (you will find this out the first time you have to take this off in the field or your garage). Buy the HVA combo frt/rear axle wrench.
2) Add bike armor and fuel tank (Rooster skid, rad, brake disc, heat, Cycras, 3.9 IMS)
3) JD Needle kit
4) Dial in Suspension front and rear. Add rubber and HD tubes.
5) Add air bleeder valves to fork caps
6) Change chain to o-ring and sprockets (larger front/smaller rear)
7) Change weak chain guide to BRP guide
8) Add more padding to seat for sitting
9) Add Scary Fast carb plate and PN and PN+ to carb.
10) Ride it like you own it!:ride:
Steny

[BentAero TT Bronze Member]

Dale Wickline said:

Start here and work forward and backward through this thread started by PoconoPete a while back.

http://www.thumperta...221#post3383221

Oh yeah! I'm all over that Mod in the next day or two...

Coffee:

Thanks for putting this thread together. It's vitally helpful to new (returning) Husky owners such as myself.

If I may offer a suggestion for this continuing work in progress-
When a "must do" or "suggested" fix is deemed "official", how about adding the related known link(s) to that line item?

Case in point, the above SA mod. I had no clue what the original poster was refering to, but Dale's post to the mod thread was/is like gold.

I understand this may be easier said than done, but if we can encourage those who post suggestion to include links to their respective suggestions, that would be of the most help to those of us who have no clue.

BTW, my first Husky purchase was 27 years ago. Agggghhh!

Thanks again everyone.

Gary

[coffee Get Help Now]

BentAero said:

Oh yeah! I'm all over that Mod in the next day or two...

Coffee:

Thanks for putting this thread together. It's vitally helpful to new (returning) Husky owners such as myself.

If I may offer a suggestion for this continuing work in progress-
When a "must do" or "suggested" fix is deemed "official", how about adding the related known link(s) to that line item?

Case in point, the above SA mod. I had no clue what the original poster was refering to, but Dale's post to the mod thread was/is like gold.

I understand this may be easier said than done, but if we can encourage those who post suggestion to include links to their respective suggestions, that would be of the most help to those of us who have no clue.

BTW, my first Husky purchase was 27 years ago. Agggghhh!

Thanks again everyone.

Gary

Presenting the 'right' level of information is extremely difficult.  While many consider opening up the exhaust tip in that thread is important many others don't think it is important.  Mine is stock but have ridden a bike with that mod.  And that is just one example.

I've got a link to this open thread in the Important Information sticky.  Could copy my first post into that sticky.... beyond that don't really know what else I could do but I keep thinking about it.

If anyone thinks anything in my first post in this thread is not important speak up.

[Michael Lueders TT Addict]

mike_dean said:

So there must be a hole in the stem for the fuel to get to the lower brg otherwise it would just run out the bottom of the stem to the fender, that seems like an oversight, I don't think I would design a hole in a strg stem for the sake of a strg lock. I don't use my strg lock anyway, and I have a vent on the cap because of the 11/8" pro tapers with bar pad, so I'm ok. I keep forgetting these are street legal. thanks, Mike

Almost every bike maker has a model with a slotted stem floating in the mix..

[NiceUserName TT Addict]

I was also wondering about the chain guide - we're replacing on our TE and seems to be something that others change out frequently.

[coffee Get Help Now]

NiceUserName said:

I was also wondering about the chain guide - we're replacing on our TE and seems to be something that others change out frequently.

The TE comes with a chain guide that will move if a rock or something hits it - George from Uptite posted that is a good idea and I agree with him.  Other TTrs may have another opinion.

[Louge TT Bronze Member]

Welcome Gary ... you'll find the Husky bulletproof and the folks here very helpful.

[NiceUserName TT Addict]

coffee said:

The TE comes with a chain guide that will move if a rock or something hits it - George from Uptite posted that is a good idea and I agree with him.  Other TTrs may have another opinion.

Well, since we haven't taken the original one off, maybe leave it on and see how it goes.  Thanks.

[coolbikeguy TT Silver Member]

Dale Wickline said:

Dremel out the restrictive diffuser in the stock exhaust (TE-250). Still very quiel & noticable improvement to the bottom end.

Fork bleeders. The Marz forks build alot of pressure quickly.

Vented gas cap breather so you don't wash the grease out of the lower bearing when you fall over. BTW I found a black plastic plug for furniture use that fit into the steering stem opening perfectly. Sano and keeps dirt & water out.

Balance those tires....right Coffee?

who sells the fork bleeders ?  are they push to release pressure type or the type that look like a valve stem ?   scott

[Dale Wickline TT Bronze Member]

coolbikeguy said:

who sells the fork bleeders ?  are they push to release pressure type or the type that look like a valve stem ?   scott

I forget but I think Scotts. Call Dan at Motoxotica. I believe that's where I got them. If you can't find them PM me and I'll try to be more helpful. BTW you will need Teflon paste to install them available at Lowes or Home Depot.

[motorthings TT Bronze Member]

my fork bleeders are from motion pro (called out for ktm), and should be available at any good husky dealer.

[Erik D TT Member]

Hi everyone, been lurking for a while. This is a great thread and I wish it was around when I first bought my bike. So far all the suggestions have be good. Here are a few more that I have experienced on my 07 TE450 and that have been covered in past threads but haven't been mentioned here yet.

1. The rear brake line can rub against the engine case, cutting both line and case. Loosen up banjo bolt and retighten it with the line rotated closer to the shock.

2. The two mud flap ridges rub on the swingarm and cut grooves into the aluminum. Use a razor to cut off the ridges.

3. The kickstand bolts are slightly short. My kickstand folded under due to putting my weight on it in a bad spot of trail. It stripped the threads and bent the frame tabs. Buy 20mm & 25mm grade 8 bolts to replace the 16mm & 20mm bolts, respectively. With my yamaha wr kickstand I could jump on the thing all day long, but I am careful to only put the weight of the bike on the husky stand now.

4. The kick stand was too far forward. Welded a bit of metal to the mounting bracket to push the stand slightly farther back.

5. Uptite sells a $2.25 replacement bolt and bushing to eliminate the autoretract, no cutting required. You can pick one up when you’re getting your axle nut, y fitting, carb filter, throttle tube, or various guards.

6. The oil check bolt on recent years is too low and strips easily so I just don't touch it. The 7602 covers do look nice though.

7. My shift and brake levers have been scraping the case covers. I haven't done anything about it, but solutions have been posted in the past.

All of these topics have been covered by much more knowledgeable and experienced husky owners than myself. Search is your friend.

[FOXedupONE TT Member]

Chain guide from BPR, BRP something like that

[shoeman1952 TT Member]

oh man, sorry for the second post.  just remembered that i loosened up the wiring harness clamp near the steering stem, right side.  this allows the harness to move more freely, not flex, but is still held.  less chance of broken wires i think.  
bobp

[BAJAHUSKYS TT Titanium Member]

NiceUserName said:

I was also wondering about the chain guide - we're replacing on our TE and seems to be something that others change out frequently.

The Chain guide that comes stock on the TCs is weak and doesn't take much of a hit to wad it up. The recommended replacement this year to us was the stock TE chain guide. On further inspection, it was recommended to us that if we were going to spend the money buying a stock TE chain guide, we should go out and buy the BRP unit instead, which is far superior to the TE and especially the TC. Much more stout, takes a good rock hit and doesn't move. They have lived up to that recommendation and more.  Steny

[rlw TT Bronze Member]

Agree with that.....I've already field tested the BRP chain guide on my TE510 with a big rock, and with some of our tight rocky trails, fairly sure it will not be the last. Nice to not have to worry about a chain guide folding over.