front brakes still soft..


37 replies to this topic
  • dmoney1074

Posted December 02, 2007 - 04:37 PM

#21

I personally use the $10 pads from Rocky Mountain. They are cheap and perform very well. :thumbsup:


could you hook me up w/ a link? Thanks

  • 642MX

Posted December 02, 2007 - 04:40 PM

#22

could you hook me up w/ a link? Thanks


http://www.rockymountainatv.com

  • stillsun

Posted December 02, 2007 - 04:41 PM

#23

Whenever I use the vacuum bleeder, I get air in the bleed line due to air coming down around the threads of the bleeder screw and back up the bleeder hole. I never know if it's all out of the brake system because there's always air in the bleeder hose line. Any advice? Do others see this also?


Teflon tape

  • stillsun

Posted December 02, 2007 - 04:42 PM

#24

http://www.rockymountainatv.com


:thumbsup: Classic... it's amazing how the ratio of how well search engines have progressed compared to how often people actually attempt to use them to find what they're looking for.

:busted:

  • grayracer513

Posted December 02, 2007 - 05:16 PM

#25

Are you using the stock brake lever?
I have not found an after market lever that has the solid low travel feel of the stock lever.

I use ASV's with Yamaha pads, and the brakes are like a rock. Don't know what to tell you.

  • dmoney1074

Posted December 02, 2007 - 05:22 PM

#26

:thumbsup: Classic... it's amazing how the ratio of how well search engines have progressed compared to how often people actually attempt to use them to find what they're looking for.

:busted:


Wow you guys are all so nice... If I WANTED TO GO TO ROCKY MOUNTAIN ATV HOME PAGE I WOULD DO IT... DONT INSULT ME. I WAS LOOKING FOR A SPECIFIC LINK TO THE BRAKE PADS THIS GUY CLAIMS HE USES. I ALREADY SEACHED THAT SITE AND FOUND NO PADS FOR $10.

THANKS FOR THE LACK OF HELP.

  • 642MX

Posted December 02, 2007 - 05:28 PM

#27

Wow you guys are all so nice... If I WANTED TO GO TO ROCKY MOUNTAIN ATV HOME PAGE I WOULD DO IT... DONT INSULT ME. I WAS LOOKING FOR A SPECIFIC LINK TO THE BRAKE PADS THIS GUY CLAIMS HE USES. I ALREADY SEACHED THAT SITE AND FOUND NO PADS FOR $10.

THANKS FOR THE LACK OF HELP.


Well I guess they are $13.99 now. Last time I bought them, they where only $9.99.

Let me try a direct link to them. http://www.rockymoun...7#vehicleSelect

If that don't work. Look for the tusk brand under the brake section.

  • dmoney1074

Posted December 02, 2007 - 05:35 PM

#28

Thank you for that... Thats what I was looking for originally.

  • stillsun

Posted December 02, 2007 - 05:52 PM

#29

Wow you guys are all so nice... If I WANTED TO GO TO ROCKY MOUNTAIN ATV HOME PAGE I WOULD DO IT... DONT INSULT ME. I WAS LOOKING FOR A SPECIFIC LINK TO THE BRAKE PADS THIS GUY CLAIMS HE USES. I ALREADY SEACHED THAT SITE AND FOUND NO PADS FOR $10.

THANKS FOR THE LACK OF HELP.


I think we've all been pretty helpful in this thread but when a person can't go to a site, put in their bike and then click or search for brake pads to bring up the cheapest one's (in this case the RM brand (Tusk)) then it's a little annoying.

J

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • 642MX

Posted December 02, 2007 - 05:57 PM

#30

Thank you for that... Thats what I was looking for originally.


Your welcome. :thumbsup:

  • 2001YZF426Rider

Posted December 05, 2007 - 09:31 AM

#31

Well i havent had the time to go out and mess with the brakes.. But, i do need some new pads so that might be a problem too.. Which type should i go with, for street riding?? (sintered etc..)

The cr pads will fit on my 426??

  • dmoney1074

Posted December 05, 2007 - 01:45 PM

#32

Well i havent had the time to go out and mess with the brakes.. But, i do need some new pads so that might be a problem too.. Which type should i go with, for street riding?? (sintered etc..)

The cr pads will fit on my 426??


From what I've gathered the oem pads are preffered... The sintered will apparently be hard on your rotor, but I personally have no experience with them...:thumbsup:

I'm going with the oem when I do mine...

  • 2001YZF426Rider

Posted January 22, 2008 - 08:17 PM

#33

Ok well i have bled these things a hundred times.. Also used a syringe to push the fluid up from the caliper, and they are still soft.

BUT my pads are about shot so im guessing this has a major role in it.. Would new pads cure the problem?

  • mj2412

Posted January 23, 2008 - 12:37 AM

#34

Hello, i had best experiences with the original pads. But that will not cure your problem. Buy a brake master rebuild kit first. Good seals in the brake master and a good brake line is very important for the feel at the lever. The pads have more influence on the stopping power than the feeling at the lever. Compare the article numbers of a aftermarket brake pad company between CR and YZ and you will know.

  • 2001YZF426Rider

Posted January 23, 2008 - 06:56 AM

#35

well the thing is, i need better braking power!!! I cant even do a stoppie with the 320mm rotor.. It has a stainless braided galfer line..

How much and where can i get the rebuild kit?

  • grayracer513

Posted January 23, 2008 - 07:38 AM

#36

They're available at the dealer, and they're cheap. (under $20)

And change the pads.

  • 2001YZF426Rider

Posted January 23, 2008 - 08:07 PM

#37

Well my buddy at school has a wr converted to sumo, and he said to get a trx450r front master cylinder and i will be set...

I will try the rebuild kit first though see if that works..

  • rooster wrooster

Posted January 24, 2008 - 07:21 AM

#38

I did the back bleeding with a syringe when I did my rear brakes. That was one of the most time consuming and aggravating things I have done. You have to me meticulous about getting all of the air out of the syringe. Here is the instructions I followed. The only thing I did different was taking the caliper off and rotating it in many different directions while I bled it and tapped on it lightly and also tapped on the line. What a pain but it finally worked. I'm sure you all ready found out it is pretty messy to do it this way.

Bleeding the brake line

24. Disconnect the stock master cylinder from the frame so the
whole assembly can be pivoted upside down. This will help
bleed air out of the system at the junction of the two lines when
bleeding.
Using either an optional bleeding Kit or a syringe with an attached
piece of tubing, add Dot 4 brake fluid while bleeding the line of air.
Tip: Loosen both adjustments on the AJP left hand master
cylinder to assure the lever can travel all the way out.

25. Start by filling the syringe with Dot 4 brake fluid.
Rotate the syringe so the tubing is aiming up to allow the air
bubbles to rise to the top. It helps to tap the syringe lightly with
your finger first and then leave the syringe, tubing side up, to
settle for a minute. This should assure that all the air bubbles
have risen to the top. With the tubing still aiming up, squeeze
the plunger of the syringe until all the air is pushed out and a
small amount of brake fluid comes out. See following picture.

Posted Image

26. Use a Philips head screwdriver to remove the reservoir cap on
the Rekluse Left Hand Master Cylinder.
27. Use a flat head screwdriver to push the brake pad on the piston
side of the rear caliper away from the brake rotor. The idea is
to bottom the piston(s) back into the caliper allowing the system
to be bled in the following steps. See following picture.

Posted Image

29. Remove the dust cap on the rear caliper bleeder nipple and slip
the tubing end over the bleeder nipple being very careful not to
allow air to enter into the line. Rotate the syringe so the plunger
end is up and squeeze the tubing to assure any air bubbles
float to the top. You should now have the syringe attached to
the rear caliper bleeder nipple and ready to push Dot 4 brake
fluid only, no air bubbles. See following picture.

Posted Image

Warning: Use paper towels to protect the brake pads and rotor
from the brake fluid.
If brake fluid gets on to the brake pads they will most
likely need to be replaced.
30. Using an 8mm open end wrench, loosen the bleeder nipple one
turn, 360 degrees. Push Dot 4 brake fluid until the reservoir in
the Rekluse Left Hand Master Cylinder is full. It is very
important not to push any air into the system. You must
tighten the bleeder nipple before you stop pushing fluid.
Tip: Having someone tap the brake line as you push the brake
fluid through will help bleed air from the system.
31. Be prepared to catch the Brake Fluid as it over flows from the
Left Hand Master Cylinder Reservoir.
32. The bleeder nipple should now be closed and the dust cover
returned. You will now need to push the rear caliper back over.
You will do this by actuating the left hand master cylinder.

33. Squeeze the lever a few times, being very careful not to pull air
into the system. On the return stroke, after the lever is
squeezed, the fluid in the reservoir will be sucked into the line.
You will need to add fluid to the reservoir after every squeeze
of the lever or air can be sucked into the system. It usually
takes 3-4 squeezes of the lever to force the caliper back into
place. Be very careful not to suck air or you will have to
start the whole bleeding process over.
Repeat Steps 18-23 until all air is bled from the system.
Final Installation Steps
34. Use brake cleaner to clean the rear caliper, rotor and left hand
master cylinder. Allow to dry before using the brake.
Tip: If you have a spongy feel to the lever, pump it until pressure
is built. Using a zip tie, hold the lever in against the grip and leave
it over night. This will keep pressure on the system allowing any
air bubbles to make their way to the reservoir. Tap on the brake
line starting at the rear caliper working your way up to the master
cylinder. Before you release the lever ensure the highest point of
the brake line is at the master cylinder.
Lever Adjustment
35. When adjusting the lever position in, be sure you do not
introduce excessive brake drag with the actuator screw or
premature brake pad wear will result.
After riding, the rear brake will heat up and expand. You may
need to adjust the actuator screw out if the brake begins to
drag. See following picture for lever adjustment points.

Posted Image





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