Screwed the thread right out!! (come on everyone does it at some stage)


47 replies to this topic
  • grayracer513

Posted November 21, 2007 - 11:07 AM

#21

Maybe I should go back to school and become an engineer.......:thumbsup:

The bean counters would make you crazy.

BTW, ever see where the oil filters on KTM's are?

  • 642MX

Posted November 21, 2007 - 04:42 PM

#22

BTW, ever see where the oil filters on KTM's are?


Yeah I have. My neighbor had a 450EXC and I believe it had 2 filters that where hard to even see.

  • motoag93

Posted November 25, 2007 - 08:15 PM

#23

Maybe I should go back to school and become an engineer.......:busted:


I have a mechanical engineering degree and still managed to strip the end of the oil filter drain bolt on my 07.....:busted: even after reading the recommended procedures on TT.

Not sure how to proceed. Was planning on picking up a tap set to try and clear the threads on the case ? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I am religious about following the torque specs. I just screwed up and tightened it when I knew something didn't feel right. :thumbsup:

  • DPW

Posted November 25, 2007 - 09:35 PM

#24

Isn't there an easy way to seal the drain? Couldn't a little dab of sealant take care of the drain hole issue? I do the same thing as 642MX and lean the bike to the side

  • grayracer513

Posted November 26, 2007 - 06:51 AM

#25

Isn't there an easy way to seal the drain? Couldn't a little dab of sealant take care of the drain hole issue? I do the same thing as 642MX and lean the bike to the side

Maybe. I have thought of this much, but with the filter out and the well mopped dry, you should be able to see a small hole near the bottom/back of the well at about 7:00 o'clock. You should be able to verify that it leads to the bolt hole with carb spray, and it shouldn't be too hard to seal it off. I'm not sure if I would use a softer sealer, though. Maybe a 2 part epoxy like JB. Look it over and use your best judgment.

I have a mechanical engineering degree and still managed to strip the end of the oil filter drain bolt on my 07.....:busted:

With no offense directed at any one particular person, living, dead, or undecided, I spent over 20 years of my professional career as a mechanic correcting things engineers did. :thumbsup:

  • motoag93

Posted November 26, 2007 - 07:11 AM

#26

With no offense directed at any one particular person, living, dead, or undecided, I spent over 20 years of my professional career as a mechanic correcting things engineers did. :thumbsup:


Don't stop now Gray.....please tell me how I can fix what I screwed up.....:busted:

Experience is more valuable than any degree......

  • grayracer513

Posted November 26, 2007 - 07:16 AM

#27

Well, it depends on what damage has been done. If you think there's a substantial amount of the case thread left, then it's certainly worth a try to run a 6x1.0mm tap through it and try a new bolt. Pack grease in the flutes of the tap so that it retrieves the chips for you. Rinse it out, repack it, and run it through again.

If that fails, then use a Time-Sert as recommended earlier.

  • motoag93

Posted November 26, 2007 - 09:59 AM

#28

Thanks Gray, I am confident that 60% of the threads are good. I think I can repair the damage that has been done without drastic measures...at least I hope.

  • PolskaSax

Posted August 08, 2008 - 09:08 PM

#29

I looked at this thread because this exact thing happened to me on my 2005 450, I used a longer bolt, solved. Not a whole lot longer but just a little bit, outa my YZ metric bolt kit. I even ran a real long bolt in to make sure i wasnt cutting the cross section off, no worries.

  • Chadimac22

Posted August 09, 2008 - 05:15 PM

#30

Well, it depends on what damage has been done. If you think there's a substantial amount of the case thread left, then it's certainly worth a try to run a 6x1.0mm tap through it and try a new bolt. Pack grease in the flutes of the tap so that it retrieves the chips for you. Rinse it out, repack it, and run it through again.

If that fails, then use a Time-Sert as recommended earlier.


Hey Gray- When I bought my 426, the drain plug was already over-tightened, and now, the head is completely rounded off. How do you recommend I proceed?

Should I just drill out the entire bolt and use a time-sert kit, or try and extract it with less invasive means? Drill-out bolt extractors and socket type bolt extractors have been unsuccessful. What do you think I should do?? This is driving me nuts. :)

Thanks in advance.

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  • grayracer513

Posted August 09, 2008 - 05:31 PM

#31

Which drain plug are you talking about?

  • Chadimac22

Posted August 09, 2008 - 06:51 PM

#32

Which drain plug are you talking about?


Sorry, should have been more specific. The oil drain plug in the bottom of the case. What are your thoughts?

  • grayracer513

Posted August 09, 2008 - 09:34 PM

#33

Drill through the center of the bolt as near on center as you can as if preparing to use an "Easy-Out" type extractor (you are, so make the hole the right size.) Then, use a 3/8" drill to follow that hole down until the head of the drain plug bolt is cut off. The screw extractor should remove the rest of it easily.

Then there's the electric gorilla method: If you know someone who is good with a MIG welder, take a 1/2" or 7/16" nut and weld it onto the drain plug. Remove it with a wrench. This can only be done when there's room for the whole thing, obviously.

  • blackoaktree

Posted June 22, 2009 - 05:21 AM

#34

Does anyone know where to buy a time-sert kit? I'm in Denver, Colorado if that makes any difference. Thanks!

  • four2sixxer

Posted June 23, 2009 - 09:57 AM

#35

so... um i stripped the tapered bolt that threads in to the side of your head to hold your compression release in any ideas on how to fix this?? If i put in a 450 cam can i just plug the hole?

  • grayracer513

Posted June 23, 2009 - 10:08 AM

#36

If you use an 18mm freeze plug to plug the bore the decomp shaft goes in, then any means of plugging the screw hole is acceptable, but it will be cleaner if you use a Heli-Coil.

  • four2sixxer

Posted June 23, 2009 - 10:26 AM

#37

i wanted to do that can i just buy a heli in the size i need or do i gotta buy a kit??

  • Pipefitter317

Posted November 07, 2009 - 06:32 AM

#38

I have just bought a used 09 yzf450 and on my first oil change I found out that the previous owner has already removed the treads from the filter drain hole for me!:smirk: The time sert sounds like the way to go but I am wanting to know what length of an insert to use? Stainless or carbon? I know stainless can be kind of finicky and since it is an oil plug repair the carbon should not rust. I have seen the kits on AMAZON for around 60 bucks, is that about the going rate? Thanks for all the comments, this forum really helps you to get to know your bike!

  • grayracer513

Posted November 07, 2009 - 07:44 AM

#39

The time sert sounds like the way to go but I am wanting to know what length of an insert to use?


http://www.thumperta...638#post5550638

Either SS or carbon.

  • rknaub

Posted September 16, 2012 - 12:11 PM

#40

Is it ok to install the time sert while engine is still mounted and together? I'm worried about crap from drilling, and tapping, getting into the engine.





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