2008 WR450 - Free Mods - What do I need to do?


16 replies to this topic
  • RFausel

Posted November 18, 2007 - 02:20 AM

#1

I bought my first new bike today and I am taking it out tomorrow. I know I need to break it in on this first ride/day, but I'd like to do the free mods before I go out again.
I pulled off the seat and gas tank to try to look for the grey wire, and I cant find it. Where is it on the 2008 WR 450?
What are all the mods I need to do to make it open up?
Should I order a YZ throttle stop?
I heard there is something in the muffler that needs to come out...what?
Does the carb need to be re-jetted or modified?
AIS Removal...What the hell is that...I know they sell a kit to remove it...Is it necessary?
If you know of somewhere that has the directions (especially ones with pictures) that would be helpful...Thanks guys.

  • TheBlackSheep

Posted November 18, 2007 - 06:41 AM

#2

I bought my first new bike today and I am taking it out tomorrow. I know I need to break it in on this first ride/day, but I'd like to do the free mods before I go out again.
I pulled off the seat and gas tank to try to look for the grey wire, and I cant find it. Where is it on the 2008 WR 450?
What are all the mods I need to do to make it open up?
Should I order a YZ throttle stop?
I heard there is something in the muffler that needs to come out...what?
Does the carb need to be re-jetted or modified?
AIS Removal...What the hell is that...I know they sell a kit to remove it...Is it necessary?
If you know of somewhere that has the directions (especially ones with pictures) that would be helpful...Thanks guys.


Read this: http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=440631
and this one: http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=439173
These threads will answer all your questions.
I am not totally positive, but from what I hear, the 08 is barely unchanged from the 07.
I will try to answer these questions for you. But there are more qualified people on here that can help you more. They will chime in eventually, be patient.
The grey wire is under the left side number plate. I unplugged mine and actually like it plugged IN better. There is a lot of info on this topic. Everybody is split on this one. Basically it revs like a WR with it plugged, and revs like a YZ unplugged. For trails I like it reving like a WR. Do a search and make up your own mind.
The "thing" in the pipe is called a baffle. There is a baffle inside of a baffle. This is very easy to do. I hate to keep saying this, but the FAQ will answer all the questions.
Yes you should get the YZ throttle stop, or read the FAQ and cut it down like I did.
Yes after you uncork her, you'll need to Re-Jet. I went with JD Jetting. I love it. Search the TT store, you wont find a better price.
In my opinion, the AIS removal kit really isn't necessary. I just did it cause it sounded cool to do. You can get that kit at the TT store also.
One thing you didnt mention is removing the "binoculars" in the air box. Read the FAQ!
Congrats on the 08! I'm jealous.
Oh, 1 more thing, when you smoke those piece of crap Dunlops, go with a Maxxis Desert IT in the rear, and a Michelin S12 in front. You wont be sorry.

................ bahhh :thumbsup:

  • oldwhitehaired

Posted November 18, 2007 - 08:42 AM

#3

Funny coincidence, I just took mine out yesterday for the first ride at Gorman. I also have an 08 WR450 I bought last weekend. That place is crowded - I'll be driving an extra hour out to the desert next time. Overall though it was a lot of fun.

I rode it for a couple hours and broke it in carefully. The 1/4 throttle thing is a bit strange, but I never felt like I was short of power, but I still would like to change that. I will definitely re-jet the carb with the JD jet kit. Bought the GYTR skid plate and rear brake guard and will install those today.

A few more goodies along the way and like Blacksheep suggests, then I'll just enjoy riding the bike after that.

The bike ran solid, didn't overheat, idled well and was a pleasure to ride right out of the box. Thanks Yamaha! :thumbsup:

  • Morty

Posted November 18, 2007 - 09:06 AM

#4

Funny coincidence, I just took mine out yesterday for the first ride at Gorman. I also have an 08 WR450 I bought last weekend. That place is crowded - I'll be driving an extra hour out to the desert next time. Overall though it was a lot of fun.

I rode it for a couple hours and broke it in carefully. The 1/4 throttle thing is a bit strange, but I never felt like I was short of power, but I still would like to change that. I will definitely re-jet the carb with the JD jet kit. Bought the GYTR skid plate and rear brake guard and will install those today.

A few more goodies along the way and like Blacksheep suggests, then I'll just enjoy riding the bike after that.

The bike ran solid, didn't overheat, idled well and was a pleasure to ride right out of the box. Thanks Yamaha! :thumbsup:



wait till you do the mods then you'll really love it, it wont be the same bike.Hang on and have a blast!

  • RFausel

Posted November 19, 2007 - 10:12 PM

#5

I brought the bike in today to have my first service done and the guy was really cool and told me he would do all the mods at no charge. He is grinding down the throttle stop, cutting the grey wire and retarding the exhaust cam 1 degree to the yz specs. He recommended not removing the baffle and to just put an aftermarket pipe on there down the road sometime. He also recommended not changing the jetting on the carb.
I am sure when I get it back tomorrow morning I'll be heading straight out to go riding. I'll let you know how it changes everything, I cant wiat.

  • JSanfilippo

Posted November 19, 2007 - 10:45 PM

#6

retarding the exhaust cam 1 degree to the yz specs.


That might make the auto decomp less effective

Replacing the baffle with a Pro moto billet insert will make the pipe flow a little better, not running an insert at all will make the pipe flow even better. Its a good stop gap while you wait for a pipe if you're going that route.

Running this engine with the airbox and the exhaust uncorked with the stock jetting is a bad idea. For most people the stock pilot jet (45) works well but the needle/main are too lean from the factory. A JD needle or a YZ needle along with a 165 or 168 main jet (depending on mods) will improve throttle response and make the bike run cooler. If you plan to keep the intake/exhaust on the bike completely stock, the stock jetting actually works pretty decent.

  • redswr

Posted November 19, 2007 - 10:49 PM

#7

I brought the bike in today to have my first service done and the guy was really cool and told me he would do all the mods at no charge. He is grinding down the throttle stop, cutting the grey wire and retarding the exhaust cam 1 degree to the yz specs. He recommended not removing the baffle and to just put an aftermarket pipe on there down the road sometime. He also recommended not changing the jetting on the carb.
I am sure when I get it back tomorrow morning I'll be heading straight out to go riding. I'll let you know how it changes everything, I cant wiat.


thats cool... i'm not sure why he told you not to take the baffle out though. that was the one thing that kept the front end of my bike on the ground!!! :thumbsup: haven't done anything with the timing or the grey wire though...

  • SXP

Posted November 19, 2007 - 11:12 PM

#8

and retarding the exhaust cam 1 degree to the yz specs


Unless he's going to press out the sprocket from the cam and reset it to YZ specs, your mechanic is full of shite! If you try retarding the WR exhaust cam by moving it one tooth you will most likely lose the auto-decomp feature and have trouble either kick starting or e-starting the bike. To the best of my knowledge, the only way to get YZ timing is by installing a YZ exhaust cam or pressing out and resetting the sprocket on the cam!

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  • TheBlackSheep

Posted November 20, 2007 - 06:11 AM

#9

That might make the auto decomp less effective

Replacing the baffle with a Pro moto billet insert will make the pipe flow a little better, not running an insert at all will make the pipe flow even better. Its a good stop gap while you wait for a pipe if you're going that route.

Running this engine with the airbox and the exhaust uncorked with the stock jetting is a bad idea. For most people the stock pilot jet (45) works well but the needle/main are too lean from the factory. A JD needle or a YZ needle along with a 165 or 168 main jet (depending on mods) will improve throttle response and make the bike run cooler. If you plan to keep the intake/exhaust on the bike completely stock, the stock jetting actually works pretty decent.


Your dealer is a retard. Listen to what Jsan said. I bet you didn't read the FAQ did you?

............ bahhh :thumbsup:

  • RFausel

Posted November 20, 2007 - 09:17 AM

#10

hmmm... Alright thanks for the heads up about the exhaust cam timing I'll go over there and talk to him about it before he gets started this morning. If he has done it with complete success before and it works great for me I'll definitely let you know.
I'll have you posted on what I ended up doing a little later today, but I appreciate hearing an honest opinion that he's full of the scheisse.
Thanks guys

  • SXP

Posted November 20, 2007 - 11:21 AM

#11

Unless he's going to press out the sprocket from the cam and reset it to YZ specs, your mechanic is full of shite! If you try retarding the WR exhaust cam by moving it one tooth you will most likely lose the auto-decomp feature and have trouble either kick starting or e-starting the bike. To the best of my knowledge, the only way to get YZ timing is by installing a YZ exhaust cam or pressing out and resetting the sprocket on the cam!


Actually, after further thought, the pressing out and resetting thing is not going to work either - sorry about that! It will have to be a YZ cam.

  • RFausel

Posted November 20, 2007 - 06:20 PM

#12

You are right! Thank you so much for letting me know. I went to the dealership to tell them about that before they worked on it today and they did more research confirming what you told me. I would have been pissed if it wouldn't have been right. Thanks for telling me.
I only had the grey wire cut and the throttle stop ground down.

Should I do something with the snorkle?

  • SXP

Posted November 20, 2007 - 06:59 PM

#13

You are right! Thank you so much for letting me know. I went to the dealership to tell them about that before they worked on it today and they did more research confirming what you told me. I would have been pissed if it wouldn't have been right. Thanks for telling me.
I only had the grey wire cut and the throttle stop ground down.

Should I do something with the snorkle?


Remove it along with the insert in the muffler and make sure you rejet. You can use either the JD kit or the GYTR kit - both camps report good results so you can't go wrong. The GYTR kit is cheaper and you also get the AIS removal hardware - probably a better value. The bike will flat out rip.

  • redswr

Posted November 20, 2007 - 10:02 PM

#14

when you go to rejet you might as well put the adjustable fuel screw in too that way you only have to mess with getting the carb out once. i also put a Boyson Quickshot accelarator pump cover on while i had it off. seemed to help the bottom end out pretty good.

  • RFausel

Posted November 21, 2007 - 01:39 AM

#15

Alright.. I just removed the snorkle. I would pull the baffle out but I don't have time to rejet tonight and go riding tomorrow. I am sure I'll be thrilled with the difference the grey wire disconnected, a full throttle (with the screw ground down) and the snorkle removed. I am ordering the AIS removal kit (GYTR - part #GYT-5TJ93-69-01) and the JD jetting kit ( part #JDY006) tomorrow and then I'll be ready to pull out the baffle or get an exhaust system when that arrives. I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow.

  • redswr

Posted November 21, 2007 - 07:12 PM

#16

the GYTR kit comes with jets... do you need the JD kit?

  • dirtrider115

Posted November 21, 2007 - 10:20 PM

#17

The gytr kit is allright but the jd kit is a bit more precise in my opinion.Make sure when you have the carb off you punch out the cap covering the fuel screw and install an adjustable one.One of the best mods you can do so when you change conditions its easy to adjust,ive done mine on the fly even if you know where you want it.I prefer the gytr screw as some dont seem to work right for some reason.




 
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